Brian-

Your answer is a little confusing.

Does cold start clear PEC?

On Thu, Jan 30, 2020 at 06:03 PM, Sonny Edmonds wrote:

Thank You. How can I help?
I understand how images hog bandwidth.
Does links posted burn it, too

Links are OK, files or photos in those two sections, as well as message attachments is what counts.

Most of the space used is in the photos section, about 500MB. Unfortunately, I had to upload photos manually from Yahoo, so most are under my name, even though they don’t belong to me. If there are large files you don’t need or a photo album that’s old, let me know and I’ll delete them. Anything you uploaded that you don’t need in the Files section, please delete.?

Regards,

? ? -Paul

Thank You. How can I help?
I understand how images hog bandwidth.
Does links posted burn it, too?

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Anthony,

Brian is correct. Gemini remembers the worm index position, even it loses power. PEC programming is not lost. You don't need to stop the motors or park the mount to preserve PEC.?

Regards,

? ?-Paul

Michael-

I think if you return the mount to "Park at home", the motor stops turning. (At least I am pretty sure of this because I think I've noticed that I cannot hear it.)

Theoretically, you could turn the mount off at that point, and it would remember where it was when it was stopped when you turned it back on?

I can definitely see how a loss of power, or shutting it off without returning to park, and then "resetting" it to home when restarting it could cause it to lose its place, which is why I asked.

Between you and Brian, I still do not have a definitive answer, however...

Folks,?

Groups.IO just sent a reminder that the Files and Photos sections in this group are 80% full. 1GB is the maximum total allowed.

If you have some files/photos you no longer need, please delete them. If it gets much closer to full, we'll need to clean it more aggressively or purchase an upgraded hosting plan.

Regards,

? ? -Paul

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That should have read, "Will PEC be maintained correctly if...)

If I have PEC maintained correctly if I, (accidentally), shut down my G11G2 without parking at "home", manually return the mount to the "home" position, and did a "cold start"?

I am thinking I might need to reload the PEC from PEMPro...

I've actually been leaving my mount (The defunct AVX) set up, and when I mount my imaging rig as a unit to the mounts clamp, I can then check my PA through my Main telescope.
But the tripod under it is as close to absolutely level as I can get it, so it begins at as close as I can to 90° to the Earths Axis. Then everything goes up from there. So the axis of the mount begins as close to 90° as I can get it. I use a digital level, and go for 0.0 ° (0.1° is unacceptable to me.) That is just the tripod.
And yes, I know it may not be necessary to most, but it is to me.

I adjust the head every so slightly to compensate for any changes due to thermal or vibration changes that occur from day to day, because I know there are, and forge ahead into alignment. Normally it only needed very minor Altitude tweaks, more pressure changes, than actual adjusting.
So... to my way of thinking, if the PoleMaster was also under-mounted to the D bar, it would be aligned, and wired to my USB along with everything else. And in my anal ways, parallel with all above it every time the Bar and Clamp find each other.
Because every time the Bar and Clamp meet they are going to be slightly off. That way all the lenses are fairly aimed precisely as one unit. And all come in the house during the rest periods between sessions.

I am an odd duck, I tend to look at the mount through mechanic and machinists eyes. So everything above my bar is solidly joined and painstakingly aligned to work together. I've come to observe what others do and accept, then apply and perfect it to my ways of use. While others were swearing by their Telrads as their primary aiming device, I adapted a Red Dot gun site to mine. Easily adjusted to be dead centered with the others. It is as close as possible to my Guide Scopes aim, which is my secondary aiming device. And lastly my guide scope is as closely aimed as possible to my Main Optical Tube.
So all three are very closely aimed. I like using Polaris for initial adjustments and checks. Even though all three are very close (Red Dot, Guide Scopes crosshairs, and finally the MOT's cross hairs in my camera program) I never expect my object to be precisely centered. Certainly not as precisely as I require for my results. Because I'm in it for Astrophotography, as many are. But that has always been my goal.
So I tend to be an Odd Duck about it. And to be as persnickety as Scott Losmandy is about fit and finish and precision.
But my demand for hitting as close to the mark as possible has always been my goal. No matter what I'm tinkering with.

Scott Losmandy might like some of my ideas, but he has probably already thought of them anyway. Because he already has over 44 years perfecting his mounts. But I'd like to meet and chat with him if I can. I already know he and I see eye to eye about how Astrophotography should be done. Long?exposure AP was a necessity for me for about a year and a half, and is still a first love for me.
So I'd like to hear his thoughts on it. My longest single shot long exposure image was 5400 seconds (90 minutes), with my now defunct Orion G3 color camera. I'm trying to dig up the old post about it.
Like Arney, "I vill be bach!"

Well Ross, I wasn't going to do all the legwork for you. LOL!
If you scroll to the bottom of the link I provided, yup, there's the Eagle.

Yeah, I was thinking that too! Its the mount that must be made parallel to Earths axis, then everything else falls in line!

Why would you remove it? Just get it centered and leave it in place. No polar scope will get you really polar aligned, just good enough to do visual reliably. Another thing to know is your initial GOTOs will also not be very good without a good PA. This is adjusted once you do an initial alignment using the Gemini alignment routine but it will be off initially.? ?
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Chip Louie - Chief Daydreamer Imagination Hardware

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