开云体育

I can comment on #4, as I have a C9.25 that I use on both a GM8 and a GM100
(predecessor to the G11). IMO, the GM8 is enough mount for visual use but
not for photography or imaging through the scope.

There was a discussion recently (within the past three weeks) about GEM vs.
fork. You might want to check the archives.

Paul Sterngold

--- George Smith <gsmith4789@...> wrote:

I am going to purchase an SCT but am undecided on a GEM or a fork
mount. Under consideration are: C8 Deluxe, LX 200, U2K and C 9.25 on
a GM 8. Any information you could offer on the following would be
appreciated:
1) Advantages / disadvantages of a SCT-GM8 combination compared to a
fork mounted SCT.
2) Portability of GM 8 compared to forks.
3) Experience of anyone using a C 9.25 with a GM 8.
4) Is a GM 8 enough mount for the C 9.25 or is a G 11 more
appropriate.

This will be a significant investment for me so any information you
can provide would be appreciated.

George Smith

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I am going to purchase an SCT but am undecided on a GEM or a fork
mount. Under consideration are: C8 Deluxe, LX 200, U2K and C 9.25 on
a GM 8. Any information you could offer on the following would be
appreciated:
1) Advantages / disadvantages of a SCT-GM8 combination compared to a
fork mounted SCT.
2) Portability of GM 8 compared to forks.
3) Experience of anyone using a C 9.25 with a GM 8.
4) Is a GM 8 enough mount for the C 9.25 or is a G 11 more
appropriate.

This will be a significant investment for me so any information you
can provide would be appreciated.

George Smith

Thanks Rockett and Paul for the feedback. I was afraid there was a
problem and you guys confirmed it. The cables are all plugged in
correctly (that was the first thing I checked). I called Pocono West
where I had purchased it and talked to Glenn. He then had me call
Scott Losmandy. Mr. Losmandy confirmed that something was wrong. I
will check the wiring in the back of the hand controller when I get
home today and if I can't solve the problem, I will have to send the
control box and the hand controller back to Losmandy.. Mr. Losmandy
said he'd never heard of that problem before though. Sort of a
bummer since its just one day old :(

Tony

hermperez@... wrote:

Rockett, I'm sorry but I cant explain my argument better, lead acid batteries
have a finite number of times that they can be discharged to zero,

All batteries do, not just lead acid.

The cycling does not waist a discharge since the batteries are no good
to me on that first charge/discharge cycle because they will die on me
1/2 way through the night.

also they
don't suffer from a "memory effect". I really don't know why you are noticing an
improvement but if it works for you...

I didn't say anything about them having "memory effect" and my description of
the problem doesn't fit the definition of the memory effect. That is caused by charging
nicads over and over without fully discharging them. I am familiar with this
phenomena because I also fly RC planes.

My problem is charging my marine batteries fully after sitting for weeks
and them having just 1/2 of the capacity when discharged. After the next
charge however they have full capacity.

Cycling them before the first night solves this problem.

take care,
Rockett Crawford

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

Rockett, I'm sorry but I cant explain my argument better, lead acid batteries
have a finite number of times that they can be discharged to zero, also they
don't suffer from a "memory effect". I really don't know why you are noticing an
improvement but if it works for you...

Herm

Rockett Crawford <Rockett@...> wrote:

hermperez@... wrote:

this does no good to lead acid batteries, all you are doing is shortening its
life.

No, you are definitely wrong about the batteries I am using.
It does do a lot of good. I discovered this by accident. I noticed that
every time I went out for more than one night, the second night the batteries
had almost twice the capacity as they did the night before.

Finally I wised up and started cycling the batteries before a star
party rather than just charging them up.

Astropics

Paul Sterngold wrote:

--- Rockett Crawford <Rockett@...> wrote:

No, this is not normal. You have a defective hand controller.

Or it may be that you have the motors plugged into the wrong jacks on the
drive control box. (I've done this before- the scope keeps moving the DEC
axis! <g>) Be sure that you have the upper motor connected to DEC and the
lower one connected to RA.

But I would think the axis would merely be swapped in that case.

If that is not the problem, then indeed you have a defective drive system.
It is probably the hand controller but could possibly be the drive control
box.

Good point, there is a chance it could possibly be the drive control also.

Rockett Crawford

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

--- Rockett Crawford <Rockett@...> wrote:

No, this is not normal. You have a defective hand controller.

Or it may be that you have the motors plugged into the wrong jacks on the
drive control box. (I've done this before- the scope keeps moving the DEC
axis! <g>) Be sure that you have the upper motor connected to DEC and the
lower one connected to RA.

If that is not the problem, then indeed you have a defective drive system.
It is probably the hand controller but could possibly be the drive control
box.

Paul Sterngold

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!

No, this is not normal. You have a defective hand controller.

Rockett Crawford


Tony Bonanno wrote:

Hi Everyone,

Just received my new GM-8 yesterday and my initial impressions are
very positive. I had never seen one before and purchased it on its
reputation. I think I've made a good choice. I'm sure I'll have
some questions for the group as I become more familiar with it and
already have one question regarding the hand controller.

Looking at the hand controller with the RA and DEC reverse switches
at the top, there is a diamond shape arrangement of four buttons. My
assumption was that the buttons opposite each other would control the
motion of the same axis. However, on this particular controller, the
TOP and LEFT buttons seem to work on one axis while the RIGHT and
BOTTOM buttons control the other axis. I've found it very
frustrating as it is not intuitive at all. Is this the normal
operation for the GM-8 hand controller or is my specific
example "wired wrong" ??

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

Hi Everyone,

Just received my new GM-8 yesterday and my initial impressions are
very positive. I had never seen one before and purchased it on its
reputation. I think I've made a good choice. I'm sure I'll have
some questions for the group as I become more familiar with it and
already have one question regarding the hand controller.

Looking at the hand controller with the RA and DEC reverse switches
at the top, there is a diamond shape arrangement of four buttons. My
assumption was that the buttons opposite each other would control the
motion of the same axis. However, on this particular controller, the
TOP and LEFT buttons seem to work on one axis while the RIGHT and
BOTTOM buttons control the other axis. I've found it very
frustrating as it is not intuitive at all. Is this the normal
operation for the GM-8 hand controller or is my specific
example "wired wrong" ??

Thanks for the help,

Tony

hermperez@... wrote:

this does no good to lead acid batteries, all you are doing is shortening its
life.

No, you are definitely wrong about the batteries I am using.
It does do a lot of good. I discovered this by accident. I noticed that
every time I went out for more than one night, the second night the batteries
had almost twice the capacity as they did the night before.

Finally I wised up and started cycling the batteries before a star
party rather than just charging them up.

Its definitely good for nicads but does not apply to lead acid batteries.

All you have to do is to promptly recharge the battery with a good automatic
charger, or float it at 13.8v...keep the electrolyte topped off etc..

I do charge it with a good automatic charger designed specifically for
marine batteries. I also charge them immediately when I get home to
leave them in a charged state.

all you possibly could want to know about rechargeable batteries, all types,
check it out here:

This is a good page, but it appears to only apply to small R/C packs
that go into models.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

Paul Sterngold wrote:

The G11 should consume less than 1 amp per hour, but for safety's sake,
estimate that rate. The DSC's consumption should be negligible but again,
play it safe and estimate 0.5 amps per hour

The DSCs have a display heater which takes about 1/2 amp, but
only when the temperature drops below freezing. The digital drive
pulls about 1/2 an amp.


Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

Hi everyone,
I am in the process of purchasing a used G-11 with Losmandy digital setting
circles and polar alignment scope from a fellow club member. After years of
using fork mounts, I'm still getting used to using German mounts and I have
a few questions that don't seem to be really covered in the manuals, mostly
about the DSCs. Fortunately, the current owner is allowing me to borrow the
mount before actually purchasing it so I can "kick the tires" and get any
questions answered up front.

1) The manual states that the polar bore scope should rotate freely when
inserted in the RA housing. However, after tightening the retaining ring,
the finder won't budge. Is it normal to have to loosen the retaining ring
slightly to rotate the polar finder?

2) Will the DSCs in alt-az mode with the G-11?

3) Will the polar scope give me a sufficiently close alignment that the DSCs
will work with a 1-star alignment?

4) Appendix A in the DSC manual describes a process for determining the +90
degree position for the telescope/mount that is necessary for a 2-star
alignment with a GEM. Shimming the mount may be all fine and dandy if you
have a permanent installation, but it sounds impractical if you have to
setup and take down the scope and mount for every viewing session. How
accurate does this process have to be? Will centering Polaris and setting
the mechanical declination circle get me close enough?

5) The illuminator and battery pack for the polar bore scope seems a little
cumbersome. Is there an illuminator available with a self-contained
battery?

I'm sure I'll have other questions as I start using the mount.

Thanks,
================================================
Ray Porter
Applications Analyst Programmer
Administrative Information Services, UNC-CH
Phone: 966-5878
email: ray_porter@...
dragon@...
Home Page:

"Meddle not in the affairs of dragons,
for thou art crunchy and taste good with ketchup."

--- In Losmandy_users@..., hermperez@w... wrote:

this does no good to lead acid batteries, all you are doing is

shortening its

life. Its definitely good for nicads but does not apply to lead

acid batteries.

All you have to do is to promptly recharge the battery with a good

automatic

charger, or float it at 13.8v...keep the electrolyte topped off

etc..

all you possibly could want to know about rechargeable batteries,

all types,

check it out here:



Herm

Rockett Crawford <Rockett@a...> wrote:

Thanks to all of you who responed. The battery is a lead-acid
battery sold by Pep Boys for boosting your car battery when needed.
The amp-hr rating is not listed. It was alway fully charged as
indicated by the pilot light (green) when the button was pressed.
Over charging may be the cause because I tend to leave the wall unit
charger plugged in all the time. In any case when used three days in
a row, it is recharded overnight and the third night failed after
about 4 hrs. I assume that the battery is a dud and leaving for
Sam's to buy another. Once again thanks.

This is called "cycling" by NiCad users. I don't know if the
concept applies to these batteries or not, but it definitely
makes a big difference.

Astropics

this does no good to lead acid batteries, all you are doing is shortening its
life. Its definitely good for nicads but does not apply to lead acid batteries.

All you have to do is to promptly recharge the battery with a good automatic
charger, or float it at 13.8v...keep the electrolyte topped off etc..

all you possibly could want to know about rechargeable batteries, all types,
check it out here:



Herm

Rockett Crawford <Rockett@...> wrote:

This is called "cycling" by NiCad users. I don't know if the
concept applies to these batteries or not, but it definitely
makes a big difference.

Astropics

I doubt it, most likely your battery pack is not in good shape. What kind of
batteries and how big is the pack made off?

I sometimes use a 5ah lead-acid gellcell and its good for two nights.

Herm


havriliak@... wrote:

The battery pack that I use claims that a radio or TV can be
operated for 20 hrs. On several occassions, by freshly charged
battery went dead driving the G-11 with DSC. I couldn't understand
this at first, and later concluded that a fine layer of bubbles
formed over the battery plates made it appear dead. So when it
happened again, I simpley shook the battery as hard as I could but to
no avail. Any comments, or does the G-11 draw about 5 times the
current of a radio or TV

Astropics

The G11 should consume less than 1 amp per hour, but for safety's sake,
estimate that rate. The DSC's consumption should be negligible but again,
play it safe and estimate 0.5 amps per hour. If you estimate 1.5 amps per
hour total consumption, you'll be very safe. It's probably about half that
in reality.

Was your battery fully charged before you used it? What is the amp-hour
rating?

Deep cycle batteries such as this should be recharged immediately after
use, no matter how low you've run them. Running them all the way down
and/or letting them sit in a partially or fully discharged condition
shortens their life.

They have no memory and can be discharged to any point before recharging.

I use a hefty Marine battery rated at 105 AH along with a smaller "Gates
Cyclon" 24 AH battery. The pair can run my scope, CCD camera, autoguider
and laptop for four nights without recharging, as I learned this past June
on Mt Lassen in California. Fortunately, I didn't have to use my dew
straps, as they are some of the biggest consumers of electrical power.

Paul Sterngold

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!

I use a 34 amp hour marine battery (a small battery, about the
size used in rider mowers) for my G-11 /w DSCs and it lasts all
night long even in the winter.

I use marine batteries because unlike car batteries, they are
designed to be discharged almost completely without harming
them.

I also use two other 34 amp batteries to run my laptop and
CCD camera but I'm fixing to upgrade to two 68 amp hour
batteries because the smaller batteries are just borderline enough.

I have noticed something about marine batteries (don't know which
kind you have), that if you charge them up after a few weeks of
sitting, they don't have as much capacity. The longer they have
sat, the lower their capacity is.

However after I cursed at them for running completely down
in say 1/2 the time they should have and charge them up
fully again. Then they have full capacity and last much longer.

So what I now will do if I haven't been out for a month or so is
charge them up, run them down, and then charge them
up again before I go out.

This is called "cycling" by NiCad users. I don't know if the
concept applies to these batteries or not, but it definitely
makes a big difference.

Rockett Crawford


havriliak@... wrote:

The battery pack that I use claims that a radio or TV can be
operated for 20 hrs. On several occassions, by freshly charged
battery went dead driving the G-11 with DSC. I couldn't understand
this at first, and later concluded that a fine layer of bubbles
formed over the battery plates made it appear dead. So when it
happened again, I simpley shook the battery as hard as I could but to
no avail. Any comments, or does the G-11 draw about 5 times the
current of a radio or TV

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

I got mine at Nordic Bearing in Sudbury.
I'm in Toronto now so can't get numbers and don't have my file.
Call either Les at Nordic thru information..17055551212 or check skf webb for nearest retailer.

jimmy

From: "Bill Faatz" <faatz1@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] skf ba2016 bearing set
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 20:26:44 -0000

OK...where can I find one of these suckers??? I've tried a couple of
local places with no success.

Bill




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The battery pack that I use claims that a radio or TV can be
operated for 20 hrs. On several occassions, by freshly charged
battery went dead driving the G-11 with DSC. I couldn't understand
this at first, and later concluded that a fine layer of bubbles
formed over the battery plates made it appear dead. So when it
happened again, I simpley shook the battery as hard as I could but to
no avail. Any comments, or does the G-11 draw about 5 times the
current of a radio or TV

OK...where can I find one of these suckers??? I've tried a couple of
local places with no success.

Bill