开云体育

I use a 34 amp hour marine battery (a small battery, about the
size used in rider mowers) for my G-11 /w DSCs and it lasts all
night long even in the winter.

I use marine batteries because unlike car batteries, they are
designed to be discharged almost completely without harming
them.

I also use two other 34 amp batteries to run my laptop and
CCD camera but I'm fixing to upgrade to two 68 amp hour
batteries because the smaller batteries are just borderline enough.

I have noticed something about marine batteries (don't know which
kind you have), that if you charge them up after a few weeks of
sitting, they don't have as much capacity. The longer they have
sat, the lower their capacity is.

However after I cursed at them for running completely down
in say 1/2 the time they should have and charge them up
fully again. Then they have full capacity and last much longer.

So what I now will do if I haven't been out for a month or so is
charge them up, run them down, and then charge them
up again before I go out.

This is called "cycling" by NiCad users. I don't know if the
concept applies to these batteries or not, but it definitely
makes a big difference.

Rockett Crawford


havriliak@... wrote:

The battery pack that I use claims that a radio or TV can be
operated for 20 hrs. On several occassions, by freshly charged
battery went dead driving the G-11 with DSC. I couldn't understand
this at first, and later concluded that a fine layer of bubbles
formed over the battery plates made it appear dead. So when it
happened again, I simpley shook the battery as hard as I could but to
no avail. Any comments, or does the G-11 draw about 5 times the
current of a radio or TV

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Capella's Observatory (CCD Imaging)

I got mine at Nordic Bearing in Sudbury.
I'm in Toronto now so can't get numbers and don't have my file.
Call either Les at Nordic thru information..17055551212 or check skf webb for nearest retailer.

jimmy

From: "Bill Faatz" <faatz1@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] skf ba2016 bearing set
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 20:26:44 -0000

OK...where can I find one of these suckers??? I've tried a couple of
local places with no success.

Bill




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The battery pack that I use claims that a radio or TV can be
operated for 20 hrs. On several occassions, by freshly charged
battery went dead driving the G-11 with DSC. I couldn't understand
this at first, and later concluded that a fine layer of bubbles
formed over the battery plates made it appear dead. So when it
happened again, I simpley shook the battery as hard as I could but to
no avail. Any comments, or does the G-11 draw about 5 times the
current of a radio or TV

OK...where can I find one of these suckers??? I've tried a couple of
local places with no success.

Bill

Hi Paul...I've got that one but what I'm trying to do is extrapolate that to the 4x6"photo print of my star trails.
If I had used the st-4 or st7e I know this would be a lot easier than photo analysis.

jimmy

From: Paul Sterngold <psterngold@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 06:50:25 -0700 (PDT)

A simpler formula for #1 below is:

Arc-secs per pixel = (pixel width / FL) * 206

You can nearly do this one in your head. Certainly with a simple
calculator.

It provides almost exactly the same results. This is the formula
recommended in several articles including the S&T website (Sky Pub).

Paul Sterngold

--- Neal Barry <nbarry@...> wrote:

Jimmy,

1. You can calculate arcseconds per pixel with the following formula:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN( (PixelWidth * 10^-6) / FL )

Where:
ArcSec = Width of Pixel in Arcseconds
PixelWidth = Width of CCD pixel in microns
FL = Objective focal length in meters

For Example, the TV 101 with ST8 would be:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN ( ( 9 * 10^-6) / .540 )
ArcSec = 3.44

2. If you want to find the dimensions of a projected image (ie, a large
format camera) the formula above works as well. Just pretend that a

pixel

is
the size of the negative. There is no direct way to state the angular
dimensions of a photographic print unless you know the FL of the
objective
lens, size of the negative, AND the magnification used during printing.

3. You can estimate the arcsecond tracking error by visually measuring
the
peak to peak pixel deviation of the star trail from an ideal mean trail.
Then multiply this deviation by the arcseconds per pixel resolution of
your
CCD camera. I wrote a small Visual C program a while back to calculate

it

more precisely directly from the image file. I'd send you a copy, but I
can't seem to find it right now.

4. Yes, doubling the FL roughly halves the arcseconds per pixel unless
you
are dealing with very short focal lengths.

Neal

-----Original Message-----
From: James A. Thibert [mailto:thibertj@...]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 7:14 PM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)


Hi Neal,it's looking good.I put a third 1"long bearing in each of
my axies
and it improved nicely but not like yours.
By coincidence,I offset my mount and took a few before and after
startrails.
The after star trailsARE VERY REULAR AND i TOO USED A 101 POINTED
AT THE M31
REGION.I used a 2x big barlow in front of my camera.

My star trails can be described as 2 different appearing trails:
the bright stars look loke a straight linr composed of light balls

(stars

)connecetd together like a string of pearls.
The dimmer stars leave wavy trails but are much thinner of course
than the
bright stars.
How would I measure the arcsec error?

I had tried to calculate my arcsec resolution with a 12.5mm ortho
eyepiece
and on the 60mm scale it took 300 seconds for a star to go end to

end.I

calculate dthe that give an st-4 pixel is 13.5 x 16 microns that
on the ra
side,1 pixel at prime focus would be 5.5 arcsecs.The 2x barlow
would halve
that would it not?
If correct,how then do you extrapolate that to a 4 by 6"photo?

I shot 30 minutes at the pleades and have round stars even under
an 8 power
magnifier.

Can you shed any light on this for me?

thanks
Jimmy

From: "Neal Barry" <nbarry@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Subject: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:55:59 -0700

Hi all,

Well, I'm reasonably pleased with the improvement that I have

been able to

achieve in my G11's tracking and periodic error. Take a look at
to see the

results.

I am curious how the PE shown on the web page above compares to other

G11

mounts out there. I still am not sure if the problems with the mount

I

received are typical or a fluke.

I have made the fix permanent since my original post back on 8/13,

but

I

did
risk damaging the mount in the process. Specifically, I pressed in a

new

needle bearing with .002" stainless steel shim stock wrapped around

the

OUTSIDE of the bearing (I know, I was against it in an earlier

post ;-) I

do
not recommend this! You can easily damage your mount unless you are

VERY

careful. Five things can go wrong.

1. The needles in the bearing can seize.
2. The bearing can easily distort due to the amount of force require

to

press it in.
3. The fit can bee too good, and the shaft will bind due to the

relative

misalignment of all three needle bearings.
4. You can permanently knock the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve off

axis

or

bend it.
5. You can expand the OD of the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve so that

the

wheel gear will no longer fit.

However, this strategy did cause the ID of the needle bearing to

shrink

(exactly the amount needed in my particular case) and I now have a

very

nice
on-axis fit with no measurable slop. The OD of the RA wheel gear

sleeve

bearing did expand slightly (approx .0002") and I needed to lap

it a bit to

ensure that it would not bind over an appreciable operating

temperature

range.

Anyway, now that the RA shaft was not flopping around, I was

finally able

to
see how well the mount would track. Now I had a fairly regular

PE of about

11-12 arc seconds. After lapping the RA worm and wheel gear it

dropped

to

under 10 and became even more regular. After training the

SkyWalker II PEC,

it tracks within 2 arc seconds. Not too shabby given where this all
started.

Neal









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Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

________________________________________________________________________

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Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!




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________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

A simpler formula for #1 below is:

Arc-secs per pixel = (pixel width / FL) * 206

You can nearly do this one in your head. Certainly with a simple
calculator.

It provides almost exactly the same results. This is the formula
recommended in several articles including the S&T website (Sky Pub).

Paul Sterngold

--- Neal Barry <nbarry@...> wrote:

Jimmy,

1. You can calculate arcseconds per pixel with the following formula:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN( (PixelWidth * 10^-6) / FL )

Where:
ArcSec = Width of Pixel in Arcseconds
PixelWidth = Width of CCD pixel in microns
FL = Objective focal length in meters

For Example, the TV 101 with ST8 would be:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN ( ( 9 * 10^-6) / .540 )
ArcSec = 3.44

2. If you want to find the dimensions of a projected image (ie, a large
format camera) the formula above works as well. Just pretend that a pixel
is
the size of the negative. There is no direct way to state the angular
dimensions of a photographic print unless you know the FL of the
objective
lens, size of the negative, AND the magnification used during printing.

3. You can estimate the arcsecond tracking error by visually measuring
the
peak to peak pixel deviation of the star trail from an ideal mean trail.
Then multiply this deviation by the arcseconds per pixel resolution of
your
CCD camera. I wrote a small Visual C program a while back to calculate it
more precisely directly from the image file. I'd send you a copy, but I
can't seem to find it right now.

4. Yes, doubling the FL roughly halves the arcseconds per pixel unless
you
are dealing with very short focal lengths.

Neal

-----Original Message-----
From: James A. Thibert [mailto:thibertj@...]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 7:14 PM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)


Hi Neal,it's looking good.I put a third 1"long bearing in each of
my axies
and it improved nicely but not like yours.
By coincidence,I offset my mount and took a few before and after
startrails.
The after star trailsARE VERY REULAR AND i TOO USED A 101 POINTED
AT THE M31
REGION.I used a 2x big barlow in front of my camera.

My star trails can be described as 2 different appearing trails:
the bright stars look loke a straight linr composed of light balls

(stars

)connecetd together like a string of pearls.
The dimmer stars leave wavy trails but are much thinner of course
than the
bright stars.
How would I measure the arcsec error?

I had tried to calculate my arcsec resolution with a 12.5mm ortho
eyepiece
and on the 60mm scale it took 300 seconds for a star to go end to end.I
calculate dthe that give an st-4 pixel is 13.5 x 16 microns that
on the ra
side,1 pixel at prime focus would be 5.5 arcsecs.The 2x barlow
would halve
that would it not?
If correct,how then do you extrapolate that to a 4 by 6"photo?

I shot 30 minutes at the pleades and have round stars even under
an 8 power
magnifier.

Can you shed any light on this for me?

thanks
Jimmy

From: "Neal Barry" <nbarry@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Subject: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:55:59 -0700

Hi all,

Well, I'm reasonably pleased with the improvement that I have

been able to

achieve in my G11's tracking and periodic error. Take a look at
to see the results.

I am curious how the PE shown on the web page above compares to other

G11

mounts out there. I still am not sure if the problems with the mount I
received are typical or a fluke.

I have made the fix permanent since my original post back on 8/13, but

I

did
risk damaging the mount in the process. Specifically, I pressed in a

new

needle bearing with .002" stainless steel shim stock wrapped around

the

OUTSIDE of the bearing (I know, I was against it in an earlier

post ;-) I

do
not recommend this! You can easily damage your mount unless you are

VERY

careful. Five things can go wrong.

1. The needles in the bearing can seize.
2. The bearing can easily distort due to the amount of force require

to

press it in.
3. The fit can bee too good, and the shaft will bind due to the

relative

misalignment of all three needle bearings.
4. You can permanently knock the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve off axis

or

bend it.
5. You can expand the OD of the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve so that

the

wheel gear will no longer fit.

However, this strategy did cause the ID of the needle bearing to

shrink

(exactly the amount needed in my particular case) and I now have a

very

nice
on-axis fit with no measurable slop. The OD of the RA wheel gear

sleeve

bearing did expand slightly (approx .0002") and I needed to lap

it a bit to

ensure that it would not bind over an appreciable operating

temperature

range.

Anyway, now that the RA shaft was not flopping around, I was

finally able

to
see how well the mount would track. Now I had a fairly regular

PE of about

11-12 arc seconds. After lapping the RA worm and wheel gear it dropped

to

under 10 and became even more regular. After training the

SkyWalker II PEC,

it tracks within 2 arc seconds. Not too shabby given where this all
started.

Neal









To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

________________________________________________________________________

Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!

You know,my poblem has always been that I'm an economist and not a mathematician.I can tell you why or why not we'll never make any money at this but I can't figure out arctans...I'm going out to buy a scientific calculator this morning.
I presume the st7 pixels are same as st8 except more numerous in the 8.

Later this week I'll try to scan in my photo of trails so it can be atatched to the e-mail.My new scanner,(memorex) is supposed do handle this but the settings must be off because while it does great photo scans,doesn't seem to want to acknowledge stars.Everything comes out black.

In the meantime,I've got a 30 minute photo of pleades that's right on.Your 2" modulation is extrodinary but if I can get mine down to the point where the st-7(st4) can guide it to rms of less than .5 in each axis I'll be extatic.
ps check out www.aimcontrols.com for their 5arcsec shot.This is done with a $6000.us mount and yours seems pretty close.
My star trails look literally the same on the brighter stars (string of pearls) but my fainter stars have a definite regular wave.

hope for good seeing this week because I'm going up north to "God's country" for a week of shooting.
This is the first time I have confidence in the mount and now I can concentrate on the photography.
Thanks for your help....Jimmy

From: "Neal Barry" <nbarry@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 23:00:23 -0700

Jimmy,

1. You can calculate arcseconds per pixel with the following formula:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN( (PixelWidth * 10^-6) / FL )

Where:
ArcSec = Width of Pixel in Arcseconds
PixelWidth = Width of CCD pixel in microns
FL = Objective focal length in meters

For Example, the TV 101 with ST8 would be:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN ( ( 9 * 10^-6) / .540 )
ArcSec = 3.44

2. If you want to find the dimensions of a projected image (ie, a large
format camera) the formula above works as well. Just pretend that a pixel is
the size of the negative. There is no direct way to state the angular
dimensions of a photographic print unless you know the FL of the objective
lens, size of the negative, AND the magnification used during printing.

3. You can estimate the arcsecond tracking error by visually measuring the
peak to peak pixel deviation of the star trail from an ideal mean trail.
Then multiply this deviation by the arcseconds per pixel resolution of your
CCD camera. I wrote a small Visual C program a while back to calculate it
more precisely directly from the image file. I'd send you a copy, but I
can't seem to find it right now.

4. Yes, doubling the FL roughly halves the arcseconds per pixel unless you
are dealing with very short focal lengths.

Neal

-----Original Message-----
From: James A. Thibert [mailto:thibertj@...]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 7:14 PM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)


Hi Neal,it's looking good.I put a third 1"long bearing in each of
my axies
and it improved nicely but not like yours.
By coincidence,I offset my mount and took a few before and after
startrails.
The after star trailsARE VERY REULAR AND i TOO USED A 101 POINTED
AT THE M31
REGION.I used a 2x big barlow in front of my camera.

My star trails can be described as 2 different appearing trails:
the bright stars look loke a straight linr composed of light balls

(stars

)connecetd together like a string of pearls.
The dimmer stars leave wavy trails but are much thinner of course
than the
bright stars.
How would I measure the arcsec error?

I had tried to calculate my arcsec resolution with a 12.5mm ortho
eyepiece
and on the 60mm scale it took 300 seconds for a star to go end to end.I
calculate dthe that give an st-4 pixel is 13.5 x 16 microns that
on the ra
side,1 pixel at prime focus would be 5.5 arcsecs.The 2x barlow
would halve
that would it not?
If correct,how then do you extrapolate that to a 4 by 6"photo?

I shot 30 minutes at the pleades and have round stars even under
an 8 power
magnifier.

Can you shed any light on this for me?

thanks
Jimmy

From: "Neal Barry" <nbarry@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Subject: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:55:59 -0700

Hi all,

Well, I'm reasonably pleased with the improvement that I have

been able to

achieve in my G11's tracking and periodic error. Take a look at
to see the results.

I am curious how the PE shown on the web page above compares to other

G11

mounts out there. I still am not sure if the problems with the mount I
received are typical or a fluke.

I have made the fix permanent since my original post back on 8/13, but

I

did
risk damaging the mount in the process. Specifically, I pressed in a

new

needle bearing with .002" stainless steel shim stock wrapped around the
OUTSIDE of the bearing (I know, I was against it in an earlier

post ;-) I

do
not recommend this! You can easily damage your mount unless you are

VERY

careful. Five things can go wrong.

1. The needles in the bearing can seize.
2. The bearing can easily distort due to the amount of force require to
press it in.
3. The fit can bee too good, and the shaft will bind due to the

relative

misalignment of all three needle bearings.
4. You can permanently knock the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve off axis

or

bend it.
5. You can expand the OD of the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve so that

the

wheel gear will no longer fit.

However, this strategy did cause the ID of the needle bearing to shrink
(exactly the amount needed in my particular case) and I now have a very
nice
on-axis fit with no measurable slop. The OD of the RA wheel gear sleeve
bearing did expand slightly (approx .0002") and I needed to lap

it a bit to

ensure that it would not bind over an appreciable operating temperature
range.

Anyway, now that the RA shaft was not flopping around, I was

finally able

to
see how well the mount would track. Now I had a fairly regular

PE of about

11-12 arc seconds. After lapping the RA worm and wheel gear it dropped

to

under 10 and became even more regular. After training the

SkyWalker II PEC,

it tracks within 2 arc seconds. Not too shabby given where this all
started.

Neal









To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

Jimmy,

1. You can calculate arcseconds per pixel with the following formula:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN( (PixelWidth * 10^-6) / FL )

Where:
ArcSec = Width of Pixel in Arcseconds
PixelWidth = Width of CCD pixel in microns
FL = Objective focal length in meters

For Example, the TV 101 with ST8 would be:

ArcSec = 3600 * ARCTAN ( ( 9 * 10^-6) / .540 )
ArcSec = 3.44

2. If you want to find the dimensions of a projected image (ie, a large
format camera) the formula above works as well. Just pretend that a pixel is
the size of the negative. There is no direct way to state the angular
dimensions of a photographic print unless you know the FL of the objective
lens, size of the negative, AND the magnification used during printing.

3. You can estimate the arcsecond tracking error by visually measuring the
peak to peak pixel deviation of the star trail from an ideal mean trail.
Then multiply this deviation by the arcseconds per pixel resolution of your
CCD camera. I wrote a small Visual C program a while back to calculate it
more precisely directly from the image file. I'd send you a copy, but I
can't seem to find it right now.

4. Yes, doubling the FL roughly halves the arcseconds per pixel unless you
are dealing with very short focal lengths.

Neal

Hi Neal,it's looking good.I put a third 1"long bearing in each of my axies and it improved nicely but not like yours.
By coincidence,I offset my mount and took a few before and after startrails.
The after star trailsARE VERY REULAR AND i TOO USED A 101 POINTED AT THE M31 REGION.I used a 2x big barlow in front of my camera.

My star trails can be described as 2 different appearing trails:
the bright stars look loke a straight linr composed of light balls (stars )connecetd together like a string of pearls.
The dimmer stars leave wavy trails but are much thinner of course than the bright stars.
How would I measure the arcsec error?

I had tried to calculate my arcsec resolution with a 12.5mm ortho eyepiece and on the 60mm scale it took 300 seconds for a star to go end to end.I calculate dthe that give an st-4 pixel is 13.5 x 16 microns that on the ra side,1 pixel at prime focus would be 5.5 arcsecs.The 2x barlow would halve that would it not?
If correct,how then do you extrapolate that to a 4 by 6"photo?

I shot 30 minutes at the pleades and have round stars even under an 8 power magnifier.

Can you shed any light on this for me?

thanks
Jimmy

From: "Neal Barry" <nbarry@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: <Losmandy_users@...>
Subject: [Losmandy_users] G11 Fix (III)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:55:59 -0700

Hi all,

Well, I'm reasonably pleased with the improvement that I have been able to
achieve in my G11's tracking and periodic error. Take a look at
to see the results.

I am curious how the PE shown on the web page above compares to other G11
mounts out there. I still am not sure if the problems with the mount I
received are typical or a fluke.

I have made the fix permanent since my original post back on 8/13, but I did
risk damaging the mount in the process. Specifically, I pressed in a new
needle bearing with .002" stainless steel shim stock wrapped around the
OUTSIDE of the bearing (I know, I was against it in an earlier post ;-) I do
not recommend this! You can easily damage your mount unless you are VERY
careful. Five things can go wrong.

1. The needles in the bearing can seize.
2. The bearing can easily distort due to the amount of force require to
press it in.
3. The fit can bee too good, and the shaft will bind due to the relative
misalignment of all three needle bearings.
4. You can permanently knock the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve off axis or
bend it.
5. You can expand the OD of the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve so that the
wheel gear will no longer fit.

However, this strategy did cause the ID of the needle bearing to shrink
(exactly the amount needed in my particular case) and I now have a very nice
on-axis fit with no measurable slop. The OD of the RA wheel gear sleeve
bearing did expand slightly (approx .0002") and I needed to lap it a bit to
ensure that it would not bind over an appreciable operating temperature
range.

Anyway, now that the RA shaft was not flopping around, I was finally able to
see how well the mount would track. Now I had a fairly regular PE of about
11-12 arc seconds. After lapping the RA worm and wheel gear it dropped to
under 10 and became even more regular. After training the SkyWalker II PEC,
it tracks within 2 arc seconds. Not too shabby given where this all started.

Neal









To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Losmandy_users-unsubscribe@...

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

Hi all,

Well, I'm reasonably pleased with the improvement that I have been able to
achieve in my G11's tracking and periodic error. Take a look at
to see the results.

I am curious how the PE shown on the web page above compares to other G11
mounts out there. I still am not sure if the problems with the mount I
received are typical or a fluke.

I have made the fix permanent since my original post back on 8/13, but I did
risk damaging the mount in the process. Specifically, I pressed in a new
needle bearing with .002" stainless steel shim stock wrapped around the
OUTSIDE of the bearing (I know, I was against it in an earlier post ;-) I do
not recommend this! You can easily damage your mount unless you are VERY
careful. Five things can go wrong.

1. The needles in the bearing can seize.
2. The bearing can easily distort due to the amount of force require to
press it in.
3. The fit can bee too good, and the shaft will bind due to the relative
misalignment of all three needle bearings.
4. You can permanently knock the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve off axis or
bend it.
5. You can expand the OD of the RA wheel gear bearing sleeve so that the
wheel gear will no longer fit.

However, this strategy did cause the ID of the needle bearing to shrink
(exactly the amount needed in my particular case) and I now have a very nice
on-axis fit with no measurable slop. The OD of the RA wheel gear sleeve
bearing did expand slightly (approx .0002") and I needed to lap it a bit to
ensure that it would not bind over an appreciable operating temperature
range.

Anyway, now that the RA shaft was not flopping around, I was finally able to
see how well the mount would track. Now I had a fairly regular PE of about
11-12 arc seconds. After lapping the RA worm and wheel gear it dropped to
under 10 and became even more regular. After training the SkyWalker II PEC,
it tracks within 2 arc seconds. Not too shabby given where this all started.

Neal

--- In Losmandy_users@..., scott@l... wrote:

What we are doing now is cleaning the bearings of all shipping oil
and greasing them with Slick 50.
Scott

That's great news.

Thank you Scott.

yes.mine went in 3/4's by hand (very easy,slight pressure no banging)
I might have put it all the way in but I felt using the thick washer and clutch handscrew would seat it better and more accurately.
jimmy

From: "Bill Faatz" <faatz1@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 RA fix (II)
Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:47:34 -0000

--- In Losmandy_users@..., "James A. Thibert" <thibertj@h...>
wrote:

Hi Bill,somewhere's back a few days (wed?) I posted my results.
The 3'rd bearing part numbers were posted too but I am in a

different city

today so can't get to my paper file to get it for you again.
The 3'rd bearing make a big difference if your is one of the g-11's

with the

problem.(easy to tell,lock down dec clutch and manually slew dec.If

it turns

smoothly you don't have the problem...yet.If you feel a shaft

movement it's

because the slack in the beraings causes the clutch to tighten the

axis off

centre and in slewing the shaft breaks free and moves back 10 or 15
arcsecs.)
The 3'rd bearing can come in different lengths but I used a 1" long

bearing

and it made a big difference.

Jimmy

Hi Jimmy

OK, according to your post on sct-user's group #12966, I need bearing
set skf ba2016. Since I don't use digital setting circles, I can seat
the bearings using existing washer set (sans needle thrust bearing)
and
clutch knob. It's as simple as that, right??

Bill





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What's the proper way to use the vernier markings on the manual
setting
circles?? I understand that it is to interpolate between hash marks,
but it doesn't seem to work the same as my vernier calipers.

Bill

--- In Losmandy_users@..., "James A. Thibert" <thibertj@h...>
wrote:

Hi Bill,somewhere's back a few days (wed?) I posted my results.
The 3'rd bearing part numbers were posted too but I am in a

different city

today so can't get to my paper file to get it for you again.
The 3'rd bearing make a big difference if your is one of the g-11's

with the

problem.(easy to tell,lock down dec clutch and manually slew dec.If

it turns

smoothly you don't have the problem...yet.If you feel a shaft

movement it's

because the slack in the beraings causes the clutch to tighten the

axis off

centre and in slewing the shaft breaks free and moves back 10 or 15
arcsecs.)
The 3'rd bearing can come in different lengths but I used a 1" long

bearing

and it made a big difference.

Jimmy

Hi Jimmy

OK, according to your post on sct-user's group #12966, I need bearing
set skf ba2016. Since I don't use digital setting circles, I can seat
the bearings using existing washer set (sans needle thrust bearing)
and
clutch knob. It's as simple as that, right??

Bill

Hello To All
The bearing came packed in a shipping oil, after we installed them
they were then lubricated with a Lithium grease. The mixture of
this grease and the shipping oil whould harden in a year or two.
What we are doing now is cleaning the bearings of all shipping oil
and greasing them with Slick 50.
Scott

--- In Losmandy_users@..., "Reid Williams"
<reidwilliams@a...>
wrote:

I have a GM-8/Gemini on order and one question that I have has to

do

with some Losmandy owners having to redo the grease on their

G11/GM-8

mounts.

Does Losmandy use a special shipping grease?

Has anyone asked Losmandy why the sticky grease is even being used?

This group has been helpful in answering just about all the other
questions I had (just be searching by keyword), and I have found

the

procedures to redo the grease. Thanks.

Reid Williams

Hi Bill,somewhere's back a few days (wed?) I posted my results.
The 3'rd bearing part numbers were posted too but I am in a different city today so can't get to my paper file to get it for you again.
The 3'rd bearing make a big difference if your is one of the g-11's with the problem.(easy to tell,lock down dec clutch and manually slew dec.If it turns smoothly you don't have the problem...yet.If you feel a shaft movement it's because the slack in the beraings causes the clutch to tighten the axis off centre and in slewing the shaft breaks free and moves back 10 or 15 arcsecs.)
The 3'rd bearing can come in different lengths but I used a 1" long bearing and it made a big difference.

Jimmy

From: "Bill Faatz" <faatz1@...>
Reply-To: Losmandy_users@...
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: G11 RA fix (II)
Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 17:33:23 -0000

--- In Losmandy_users@..., "Steve Nightingale" <
snightingale40@h...> wrote:

Hi everyone,

I'm confused as to where we stand on the undersized shaft issue. In
summary:

1. Is it beneficial to insert a third bearing in the RA axis up

near

the pressure plate?

2. Is it relatively easy to insert?

3. Will Scott sell us an additional bearing, and if so, at what

cost?

Thanks,

Steve

Ditto everything Steve has said, except I need to fix lower dec axis,
RA seems fine.

Bill





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Thanks Brian.

This group has really taken off a big way which confirms that it's
been long overdue! It's clearly a great learning tool for
inexperienced users like myself but I'm glad to see that the group is
helping to bring out into the open problems that experienced amateurs
are facing.

Hopefully through the innovation of many of this groups members,
including Scott himself (many thanks for participating Scott), these
problems can be overcome.

I look forward to getting great images using my forthcoming G-11 and
eagerly await the new GoTo - should be fun!

Thanks to everyone so far for making this group work so well.

Clear skies,
Ian.

ndy_users@..., "Brian Kennedy" <draco61@f...> wrote:

I just wanted to say hi and thank Ian for starting this group. I

just

purchasd a GM8 any will no doubt have many questions. In reading

the

previous posts, I see we are well represented by many knowledgeable
people.

Brian

Ottocycle wrote:

Does anyone know where to get replacement 12V power cable connectors
(or complete cigarette lighter ready cables) with the screw down
collar?

Otto,
You might try Radio Shack.


--
Jim Girard

Does anyone know where to get replacement 12V power cable connectors
(or complete cigarette lighter ready cables) with the screw down
collar? I have discovered that much arcing and sparking is caused by
poor mating of the negative contact. Could easily fry a G-11 or
CI-700 control board. Losmandy doesn't show the cable as a
replacement part and Kendrick's site isn't up. Thanx - Otto

I have a GM-8/Gemini on order and one question that I have has to do
with some Losmandy owners having to redo the grease on their G11/GM-8
mounts.

Does Losmandy use a special shipping grease?

Has anyone asked Losmandy why the sticky grease is even being used?

This group has been helpful in answering just about all the other
questions I had (just be searching by keyword), and I have found the
procedures to redo the grease. Thanks.

Reid Williams