On 2/26/2024 9:10 PM, Ryan Noonan via groups.io wrote:
The spring screw is tightened all the way down and then backed off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to allow maximum spring pressure while also allowing for some spring travel. If you just tightened the spring screw all the way down, there would be no travel and you might as well have no spring. This also allows some play for the second screw to have some adjustment room. You can back it off a full turn if you want.
Don't forget that the spring screw also functions as an out travel limit because when screwed all the way in until it stops, it bottoms on the right hand worm block post inside the base plate.? When you then back it out a small amount, you are making sure that the block is free to move a small amount as you adjust the backoff screw BUT the worm cannot be forced completely out of mesh (ie., able to skip a tooth) when you push the scope by hand with the clutch engaged. If the worm is ever forced out of mesh to the point where it skips a tooth, it will damage the worm teeth..... and don't ask me how I know this ;)? Cost me a $100 worm.? But on the up side, the replacement is absolutely perfect with no measurable 240s periodic error ;)
IMO, the actual spring pressure is not critical because as designed, it is always sufficient to hold the worm backoff screw firmly against the baseplate.? In my experience, motor will likely have stalled by the time the mesh gets tight enough to actually move the worm block outwards and lift the backoff screw off the base plate.
Paul
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Paul Goelz
Rochester Hills, MI USA
pgoelz@...
www.pgoelz.com
