While we wait for the much anticipated battery pack for this wonderful radio... I did a weeks worth of figuring out the best battery alternative. Here is what I came up with to hold me over. Figure I'd share it.?



It comes with a charger, level indicator, power switch (more on this below) and was the price range I was looking for as a temporary solution. Its has a six 18650 bank (fixed/non-replaceable). At 6Ah @ 12V, this will definitely be plenty for me. I'm also using a solar panel too because this battery has a splitter that can be used to charge and use the battery at the same time. It has 5V usb port and 12V DC5521 port used for charging and power. More on that below.?

I know, these DC ports suck and I avoid them at all costs BUT this is a solution until the battery pack comes out... So I dont care if I use them this one time.?

I used DC-5521connector pigtail and a GX12-2 connector with an inline fuse. Both I got into he jungle.?

The inline fuse was difficult for a few reason. It was actually difficult to find one online that would crimp inline. Majority of the ones came with pigtails and as I suspected were not UL certified and had nonstandard fuses. A few reviews showed? melting with 1A fuses so I avoided online fuse holders all together.

So I went to a local boating store and picked up an inline crimpable fuse holder. The DC5521 (5.5mm x 2.1mm) are all going to inherently have leads off of them. To reduce butt connector usage, I opted for this method of crimping the fuse inline with the connector leads.?

More on the switch... Its a toggle and is easily bumped into the On position when in my gear bag. So I will be making a 3D printed exoskeleton for this battery. The casing for this battery pack feels a big flimsy as well. Let's not forget I will be retiring the battery pack once the Lab599 hits the US market.?

A very important note about the switch is it needs to be ON while charging. First time I charged it, I didnt turn the pack on. It still charged but on the bottom label for the battery it says to turn the switch ON for charging. Probably a protection circuit reason.?

The solar panel I am using is a13W dual USB output RAVPower small 3 panel folding charger without battery supply that my wife picked up online 3 or 4 years ago so she can keep her phone charged while camping or at music festivals... It was used once and put into our camping gear to never be utilized until now. It has two USB female ports that shows the following: Output DC 5V/3.2A Total (Each DC 5V/2.4A Max). I looked for a picture and a link but they don't make that model anymore.?

The DC5521 pigtails came with both male and female sets of 5 total. I'm currently waiting on a pack of diy USB connectors to come in so I can just solder the DC5521 pigtails directly to the USB DIY connectors. I wasnt satisfied with the 3 USB cables I sacrificed for this project as the wires were just too thin. I will also be crimping a 3A fuse holder inline and making a battery bank charge cable specific to the system.?

An extra bonus is with the DC5521 pigtails, I can make a jumper any length I need so I can deploy the panel further away from me if I am posted up under shade.

I also picked up a USB power meter to put inline with the solar panel and battery to monitor power.?





This solution gives me an all day experience. It is also what we can expect from the official battery pack based on photos of the six 18650 design. This will keep me happy as the battery packs should be similar in weight, capacity, and size.?

A side note on 18650s, having 6 spares in a case will definitely be part of my kit once I get my official battery pack. I'll have to get a bigger charger bank for the house. I use an eFest SODA dual charger which has been a solid performer for 6 years even though it has only 2 bays. I love this charger so much, I might just get a surge protector and mount 3 of these chargers to a board and call it a day. Ive had 3 or 4 different 18650 chargers in the past most broke mechanically (stopped charging on a bay) and one ruptured a battery.?

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A secondary power method I use is a AC to DC 14V 3A power supply replacement for a LCD monitor. I didn't put a fuse inline with it for one reason. The cable I picked up doesnt like heat. The insulators for both red and black wires inside of the duplex insulator melt very easily. Tinning the wires made the insulator melt through immediately... I used hot glue on the connectors to insulate the connections because the wires melted through. I used up three GX12-2 connectors and 16 inches of the cable trying to make a good safe connection...? So if you go this route, be careful. I'd like to have a fuse inline with this but I don't feel likes absolutely necessary for More... But in the end I will probably be scrapping this power supply cable.? ?It doesn't even like heat shrink. It'll melt the wires together.

The cable NOT to get is:





I also found the perfect bag for this radio that holds my solar panel too.?

https://www.511tactical.com/small-kit-tool-bag.html

It fits ALL of my radio gear minus ATAS-25 antenna system.?

I'd like to elaborate on the bag and protective solution.? The local 511 shop was kind enough to let me bring in my TX-500 for fitting. I will be designing a case for the radio. The solar panel fits in the bag diagonally and creates a partition. The bag fits in my bicycle bag as well. I plan on making an antenna mount for my bicycle so I can leave the tripod at home and ride to the park or beach for deployment. But that's in the future. Id like to get pannier bags for my field chair and table as I usually dont plan radio days and bicycle together.?

The protective case I am designing will be a Cracker-Jack box shape and the radio slide into the box. I will be making a felt sleeve insert for the box and hinge on the short side with a latch on the opposite.?

The only problem is once the battery pack is release, I will have to design another style case. Hence the stalling.?

It'll be printed with PETG.

My kit also includes a NanoVNA but I still want to pull the trigger on a RigExpert Stick.

I'm also planning on finding a small tablet for digital modes but I'm not very sure about tablet work. If I used a 7in tablet, I could pack it in my bag. My mini laptop is was my original choice for field operations. I salvaged it from a dumpster. It runs stupid hot but with a 12 year old battery and antiX Linux, it can still run 6 hours. The tablet can be charged in a pinch off of the battery supply which is a huge bonus.?

I'm trying to keep weight down as much as possible. The fully loaded bag is at 5lbs and 3oz without antenna system.? Including battery, radio, mic, nanoVNA, cables and solar panel.?

For fusing I convert all my radios over to standard ATC fuses. The fuse holders are readily available at auto parts as well as replacement fuses. Glass fuses are getting hard to find and I've never been impressed with how the fuse holders go together.?

I'm still using my factory cable for the TX-500 but I'm almost finished building a replacement cable with ATC fuse holder that will become my primary for this rig.

73,

Gary
K8JOK

When you convert them to ATC, how do you tie them in? I try to avoid butt connectors. I may look into 3D printing a fuse holder that can be tied in.?

I agree with that. Most fuse holders feel janky at best. The fuse holder I opted for is this one. It snaps in place. I didn't heat shrink the ends to the wire like I planned.?

I like and use these



73 Mike

Very cool. That is exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you. Once my supplies come in I'll post pictures of the complete setup.?

"A side note on 18650s, having 6 spares in a case will definitely be part of my kit once I get my official battery pack."

The Amazon photos show the 18650s are welded together. Are yours held in by spring clips? Individual 18650s would be perfect.

Randy - N3UMW

Correct, the battery pack from Amazon are soldered together. But it has built-in charge circuit and power meter. Plus that battery configuration is easy to replace if needed. I'm sure there would be a way to swap them out with a removable holder but I won't bother with it.?

I was referring to the official battery pack prototype photos on DXPileUp. That one shows replaceable 18650s which will greatly reduce cost if the empty official battery pack assuming that it will ship without batteries. That would be preferred and easy to ship overall. I like to pick my 18650s. I'll probably settle with Orbtronic 3500mAh but they pricy at $15 each but they are some solid batteries. I know a guy that swears by them.?

Good 18650s are going to run about $8-10 each and up. I'm a huge fan of the Samsung IMRs but im not sure if flat tops will work in the Lab599 battery pack. I have some devices that won't accept flat top batteries, only button top.?

When the Lab599?battery pack does arrive, I won't be ordering the batteries online. I'll see what type fits and go down to my local vape shop and buy 6. This Amazon battery pack is a cheap pacifier until then. Plus its lightweight.?

Ive been using 18650s for a long time, the Samsung IMR 2500mAh type almost exclusively for 5 years.?

I believe with the solar charger paired with battery from Amazon, shouldnt have an issue with battery life for a weekend trip. I was on the radio listening over the weekend for about 2 hours and it didn't lose a light on the power meter. I wasnt transmitting though... Just listening. I got some plans this weekend to spend half a day at the park.?

A good tip on 18650s is to mark them. I name each one with a sharpie and insert them in alphabetical order.? I always put them back in whatever device (when I care about the batteries) in the same slot. It keeps them married to the device. I have different 18650s for different devices. I was skeptical when I first heard that but it's a good habit. I noticed it did seem to keep them healthy for longer compared to others... when my batteries ran out before end of shift versus the normal few minutes after I got home, it was noticeable. Plus some devices have counters and keep track of the drain.?

?I bump-charge batteries sometimes too depending on the battery charger to squeeze a few extra minutes in. My SODA charger seems to keep level them between 95% and up when idle.

You can also re-sleeve them if you'd like. I keep extra shrink wrap for 18650s on my workbench. Just gotta be careful slapping them on charge not to rip the wrap at the positive end. Ive never ripped a Samsung. Panasonic's used to rip easy. The LG whatever's. I can't remember. Light purple ones. Thats something that spooks me.?

Never thought my 18650 experience would ever be verbalized over the internet. Lol. I'm so glad the battery pack will use 18650s! I hope they stay on course with it. I think that alone is a game-changer for the ham world.?

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The length of the 18650 batteries are as follows.?

18650 is supposed to mean 18mm x 65.0mm?

Depends on who makes them. Thats a pretty good chart to follow to compare sizes. Most devices allow for the different tolerances.? It ultimately matters on who is making these. I've seen 18650s that were too fat to be reported sleeved or fit in a tube. I had one so long, I couldn't get it in my device and screw the bottom on. That was the early days though. The protection circuit was insanely janky. It was held on by a? single metal tab bent 90°

Some devices won't accept flat styles at all. Like my head lamp. Its the way the battery bay is designed. The positive terminal is recessed slightly and won't make contact otherwise because of the plastic.?Anything annoying think is when flashlights bottom negative post dents the bottom of the battery.?

Update:

The rest of my stuff came in... Gonna have to get a new solar panel. 5v will not cut it with this battery pack. Needs 12v input supposedly.? Also the batteries are Samsung ICR18650 2700mAh in this battery pack.?