Hello. I do not know this specific model, but have you tried it with an external 12V DC power supply? Perhaps it is the new battery? Maybe not making good contact? Just wondering.

Wishing you the best.
73,
Francis WA4ZYN

HF Transceiver, Microphones, Signal
Generator, Meters, Cables,
Misc Parts, Manuals, and more
For Sale

.

Kenwood TS-120 S, HF Transceiver:

The Kenwood TS-120S is designed for SSB and CW
modes in the 80 through 10 meter ham bands plus
WWV 15 MHz receive. All solid-state technology has
100 PEP output on SSB, 80W DC on CW . The TS-120S
features a 100 Hz digital display with analog
subdial. It is relatively small, and simple to
operate.

It requires 13.8 VDC at 18 Amps.
9.6 x 3.8 x 11.7 inches

Features:
80-10 meters
25 kHz Calibrator
NB
RIT
IF Shift
RF Attenuator

This one works 100% as it should. Full power out on
all bands. Cosmetically it is in every good shape.

Buy it with manual for $200.

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Kenwood MC-35 Hand Microphone:

The Kenwood MC-35 is a noise cancelling hand
microphone that was used extensively on some
of the older Kenwood gear, such as the TS-120,
TS-130, and many others.

It has a standard 4 pin connector on it, wired
for Kenwood.

This one works as it should. Cosmetically, it
looks close to new.
The coiled cord is in great shape. Non-smoking.

Buy it with manual for $38

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Astatic D-104 Desk Microphone:

The D-104 is a very common desk microphone
for ham use. Sometimes it is referred to
as the "lollipop microphone". It features
extremely good audio properties.

This particular D-104 has the UG-8 "grip to talk"
stand with it.

This one works fine, just as it should. It
has a 4 pin connector on it, wired for Kenwood.

Buy it with paper work for $100.

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Lafayette TE-22 Audio Generator:

The TE-22 is a sine/square wave audio generator.
It dates back to the mid-1960s, and possibly was
OEM'd for Lafayette by Trio KENWOOD. Circuit
wise it is a Wein Bridge oscillator like the HP
200 series, but instead of a lightbulb, it uses a
thermistor as the nonlinear feedback element.

It covers from 20 Hz to 200 KHz in four bands,
and produces up to 7 V output.

This one looks like it just came out of box from
the factory. No scratches or defects of any
sort! Pristine! It produces a signal when
displayed on my scope. The wave form is not
perfect, but is quite acceptable.

Buy this unit with manual for $50

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Triplett VOM and Clamp on Ammeter:
-
This is actually multiple units in a single
leather case. The VOM is a Triplett Model
310. It measures both AC and DC volts up to
1200, with resistance to a couple megs, and
current to 600 ma.
-
Inside the same leather case is a Triplett model
10 clamp on ammeter. Obviously, it only measures
AC current, and has ranges 6 to 300 amps. In
addition, there is a model 101 adapter that
allows one to plug into a standard 110 V AC
outlets, with a large hole in the center for
the clamp on ammeter, so one can measure the
current consumed.
-
In addition to the VOM, clamp on ammeter, and
plug in adapter, it includes a set of probes in
the nice leather case. Bottom line is that you
get a lot of measurement capability.
-
Buy this entire set for $100.

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Linear Amp Switching Cables for Kenwood Rigs:

This cable goes from a Kenwood transceiver to a linear
amplifier to switch the amp from transmit to receive.

One end has a DIN connector, as is used with most Kenwood
rigs. The other end has an RCA phono plug, as used by most
linear amplifiers.

Before using this cable, please check the switching
capabilities of your transceiver, and the requirements
of your amplifier.

Cable for switching the T/R relay Only $15.

Cable with ALC control, in addition to T/R switching. $20

.

Original Manuals for Kenwood equipment:

All manuals are in nice condition and are original
operating manuals unless otherwise specified.

R-300 Receiver $10
R-2000 Receiver $22
R-2000 Service Manual $18
SM-220 Station Monitor Service Manual in binder $25
TH-21 2 m HT $8
TH-22/42 HT, cover stained $6
TH-215/315/415 HT for 2 m, 220 MHz, 440 MHz $10
TH-225 2 m HT $12
TH-K2AT, KT-4AT $10
TL922A HF Amp W7FG reprint in binder $20
TM-221/421 2 m/440 MHz mobile $12
TM-241/441/541 mobile FM $12
TM-261/461 2m/440 MHz mobile $12
TM-621/721 Dual Bander $12
TM-732 Dual Bander $12
TM-V7A dual bander $10
TR-2400 2 m HT $12
TR-2500 2 m HT $12
Service manual for TR-2600 2 m HT $12
TS-430 HF Transceiver $15
TS-450 "External Control" $7
TS-590SG HF Transceiver $25
TS-830 HF Transceiver $25
TS-830 W7FG reprint in binder $20
TW-4000 dual band mobile $15
TW-4100 dual band mobile $15

Original Manuals for Kenwood Accessories:

BC-2 Wall Charger $2
BC-5 DC to DC quick charger $2
DC-21 Dc-DC Converter $2
IF-232C Interface $8
LF-30A Low Pass Filter $4
MC-30 & MC-35 hand microphones $4
MC-50 Desk Microphone $4
MS-1 mobile stand $3
PB-1, PB-2, PB-3, & PB-4 battery packs $2
PB-21 Battery Pack $2
PB-24 battery pack for TR-2400 $2
PB-25 H battery pack for TR-2500 $2
PS-6 power supply $5
SC-8 / 8T Soft Case $2
SMC-24 speaker mic $2
SMC-25 speaker mic $2
SP-820 Speaker $2


Kenwood Operating Manuals in "Non English" Languages:

All of the following manuals are not in the English language.
They are the original Kenwood operating manual only.
They look quite extensive and detailed, and are basically new,
only being opened to observe that it is something I can not read.
They are all original manuals from Kenwood.

Kenwood TH-22 A Two Meter HT
Spanish Version for the TH-22 A / 22 AT / 22E and
TH-42 A / 42 AT / 42 E $8

Kenwood TH-22 A Two Meter HT
French Version for the TH-22 A / 22 AT / 22E and
TH-42 A / 42 AT / 42 E $8

Kenwood TM G-707 dual band transceiver
Spanish version of the TM G-707 Operating Manual $8

Kenwood TS-590 S HF transceiver
French version $ 12

Kenwood TS-590 SG HF transceiver
French version $12

These are manuals only.

.

I have parts for a Kenwood TS-440 available.

Hopefully we can keep a couple units working
and looking nice using these parts.

The rear part of the bottom cover is presently
available.
It looks very nice, and might improve the
looks of your rig.

The small little silver rectangular buttons
are still available.

The "IF" internal PC board is available
as well.

Most small PC boards, such as selectivity switch,
mic jack, front panel push buttons, etc. are
available.

A few knobs are available.

The automatic antenna tuner is NOT available.

Please let me know what you need.

.

Antenna adapter for Kenwood TH-21/31/41 HTs
Adapts the antenna connector found on these HTs to a
standard PL-259 connector. $8

.

I also have many other accessories available such
as many different types of microphones, HTs, VHF
and UHF rigs, HF and VHF/UHF antennas,
connectors, miscellaneous accessories, etc.
Just too many to list here.
Please e-mail your requests.

.

Prices do not include shipping from Florida.


Thanks.

73,

Ken, W8EK

Ken Simpson
E-mail to W8EK@... or W8EK@...
Voice Phone (352) 732-8400



.

I love my TM-V71A, and wonder if anyone made an after-market mobile mic for it that had buttons on the top of the mic for up/down channel/scan?? The * and # buttons on the front of the mic work fine, but I would like something that is more convenient for use while mobile and could be used without taking the mic off hook.

Thanks and 73,

--
Tad Danley, K3TD


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

I purchased a used TS-480 SAT recently, and I noticed that the insulation on one of the antenna coax pigtails had been scraped away about 2 inches from the back of the radio, leaving the braid exposed and damaged. I decided I would cut off the damaged coax and reinstall the newly shortened pigtail into the strain relief that secured it to the back of the radio.

For those who aren't familiar, the coax goes through a 1/4" hole in the middle of a 3/4" x 3/8" metal plate that is attached to the back of the radio with two screws. Inside the radio the coax continues through a metal tube about 1/2" long, and the tube is hex crimped around the coax to secure it. The coax continues about 1/2" past the end of the tube, where the braid is separated from the center conductor and each is soldered to the respective pad on the nearby circuit board.

I unsoldered the coax cable from the circuit board and removed the coax and strain relief assembly. With minimal effort, I was able to pull the coax out of the strain relief. Where the braid splits off from the center conductor there is a small brass ferrule that goes over the center conductor and under the braid, and the tapered tip of it is pressed into the coax underneath the outer insulation, thereby stabilizing it. With the coax removed from the strain relief, I thought I could merely stretch the crimped tube back out, cut off the bad section of the coax, reinsert it into the tube, add the ferrule, and re-crimp. Unfortunately, the tube split at the crimps when I tried this.

Here's what I did that was quick and easy to do, and looks professional, if I do say so myself!

I cut off the remainder of the tube on the strain relief and enlarged the hole in the flat plate to 9/32". I cut a 1/2" length of 9/32" brass tubing, deburred both ends, and inserted into the hole in the plate so it was flush with the underside. I applied flux to the tube and the plate, and soldered the tube to the plate on the inside surface only, so the solder is facing the radio backplate when the strain relief is reinstalled. The clearance hole in the backplate of the radio is large enough to accommodate a reasonably sized solder bead on the strain relief.

I pushed the coax through the rebuilt strain relief and then stripped back the outer insulation about 1/2". Next, I inserted the ferrule over the center conductor and under the braid, pushing the tapered tip so it was underneath the outer insulation. I pulled the coax back into the strain relief tube so that the end of the ferrule was flush with the end of the tube, then hex crimped it to secure it. After that, it was a simple matter to twist the braid and strip about 1/4" of the center conductor insulation, tin the ends, reinstall the strain relief, and solder the coax ends to the circuit board.

It looks and works like new, and if I ever have to do it again, it will be a very simple matter to take everything apart, solder in a new brass tube, and make a whole new pigtail assembly.

I apologize for the lack of photos, but I didn't realize until after I was done how potentially useful this tip might be for others. I hope my written explanation is clear enough to follow. If anyone has any questions, please reach out.

73,
Stan N6BYU

Hi Larry,

The main problem with those style of keypads, apart from the buttons physically detaching/cracking, is that the resistance of the contact part goes high resistance sue to wear. You can put a multimeter on it and you should see a fairly low resistance when new, typically a few hundred Ohms. As they get used, the resistance goes higher and will often go to many k Ohms. They also become quite shiny compared to a matt surface when good.

A very effective method I have used for decades is to VERY lightly rub the affected rubber on a piece of very fine wet and dry. It only needs a very short, light swipe across the sandpaper and you'll find that the resistance is back down very low again. Just do this to each affected button and you're good to go again and there are no chemicals involved.

73….Eric VK2VE.

The TH-F6A keypad is not a tactile switch. There are gold plated traces on the circuit board and the rubber keypad buttons are conductive, forming the keypad switch.

In my failed TH-F6A, neither the gold-plated traces nor the rubber keypad appeared much contaminated, but cleaning both with alcohol on a Q-Tip restored the unit to operation. I assume there was some kind of film on those keypad POWER contacts that prevented operation. In any event, the unit now continues to work normally after cleaning and reassembly.

The rubber keypad position for POWER on/off is damaged through long or perhaps abusive use; this HT came to me from a SK estate. The keypad is now functional but the rubber is cracked at the POWER position. I have ordered a replacement, "Substitute," keypad from PacParts and will report more after it arrives. The "Substitute" keypad is branded Kenwood, so I believe Kenwood changed the part number and likely made some change to the rubber keypad since it has a new part number.

The PacParts website is extensive and clearly lists the replacement parts available. Placing the order was easy and I promptly received confirming emails. Turns out, PacParts is located in my local Los Angles area but is nearly across the LA basin from me so I had the order shipped by USPS "Ground Advantage," the replacement for (no longer available) First Class Package; I received a tracking number the same day I placed the order and the tracking info shows the package was received by the post office. That's prompt service!

Here is a link to the PacParts webpage for TH-F6 parts:



There is a groups.io Group for the Kenwood TH-F7; its description shows the TH-F6 is also covered. However, this Group seems inactive as the most recent posting was in August of 2023. I asked to join the Group but have had no reply. This Group was evidently formed by someone in Europe since it is named for the TH-F7, not the TH-F6, perhaps an unfortunate choice for maximum interest. Hence, my joining this Kenwood Amateur Radio Group.

Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)

On 5/14/2024 3:56 PM, Bob wrote:

Was the problem the tac switch under the rubber pad or did the broken rubber pad keep the tac switch from operating?
I have not had this problem but have ordered Kenwood parts from them B4.
Let us know how the new part works out
73, Bob W4JFA

...

I am a new member to this Group and am glad to find it! I own numerous other groups.io Groups so I am familiar with the format.

I have two Kenwood TH-F6A HTs, one I bought just after the product was announced at the Dayton Hamvention (I was at that Kenwood meeting and joined in the standing ovation when the 220 MHz capability was announced).

My original TH-F6A continues to work well. I got a second TH-F6A from a SK friend's estate. It had not been used in over a year and appeared dead. I could not get it to start despite my best efforts, including the system resets. Rather than just throw it away, I kept it, hoping I would one day have a better idea.

Recently, a Yaesu HT with the same functional failure was restored over a club breakfast by a member who just took it apart at the restaurant table; he cleaned the keypad contacts and that was sufficient to restore that Yaesu to normal operation. I tried that same repair on my non-functional TH-F6A and that restored my HT to operation also!

So, if you have some HT problem, either failing to start or some curious keypad issue, I suggest you open the TH-F6A and clean the keypad board contacts and the keypad rubber pads. I used a Q-Tip and anhydrous isopropyl alcohol. Opening is easy: remove the two slotted nuts around the SMA connector and encoder shafts, and the two small cross-point screws visible when the battery is removed. The unit separates into two parts easily and safely, exposing the keypad contacts.

However, the POWER button on the rubber keypad is cracked, likely through frequent usage. I want to replace that rubber membrane keypad. I see that PacParts () has a "Substitute" Kenwood-branded keypad available:



I wonder if any of you have had this keypad problem and have purchased this replacement from PacParts, and if you found it satisfactory.

--
Best wishes,

Larry McDavid W6FUB
Anaheim, California (SE of Los Angeles, near Disneyland)

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It sounds like you're about to get in way over your head.

Gary

HI folks:

?

I have a kenwood ts-520s that I am interested in possibly tapping the IF off of to hook to a SDR dongle to make a pan-adapter -- what Im curious to know - is how hard of a project would this be, and -- is it safe?? for me and the radio

thanks
TIM

Just take note of the sheen of the finish, too, not just the color. Is it shiny,
flat, matte, etc.? You will either want that type of finish in the paint you buy
or you will want a clearcoat that offers the same finish.

The person analyzing the color for you at the paint store might be able to help
with that.

FWIW, I've heard that Sherwin Williams makes pretty good paint matches for older
equipment. I think it was mentioned on one of the two Heathkit lists.


Donald


On Wed, 10 Apr 2024 21:02:28 -0500, "Gary Cook" <gac@...> wrote:

Take the radio to Lowe's or Home Depot's paint department. They can read the color of the radio's cabinet with their computer that copies paint colors. They will mix a can for you, with the matching color.

----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
/g/ICOM /g/Ham-Antennas
/g/HamRadioHelp /g/Baofeng
/g/CHIRP

开云体育

Take the radio to Lowe's or Home Depot's paint department. They can read the color of the radio's cabinet with their computer that copies paint colors. They will mix a can for you, with the matching color.

Gary

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