开云体育

Hi, Eugine

Have you updated the eeprom in order to boot from usb?

Here is a detailed howto:

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73 Daff, LZ1DAF

Everything is running smoothly now, except my SSD boot that I am still unable to get starting on the USB 3. It previously worked with the hack and with the SD still in place (even before the new updated and beta firmware). I can see the SDD when booted up in Raspbian (connected to the USB3 port) but cannot boot up in it. Will try and see whats wrong tonight.
Im using the above Wifi dongle and purchased a original D-Link DUB-H7 hub with external 5V power (Not the 12V as last time)
The USB2 hub is running very nicely,?
Its mind boggling. Will maybe use the Y cable on the external USB 2 HUB (the power side) but otherwise its up and running and I'm broke and fed-up with these Raspberry pi 4 problems.
Its not easy,?
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BBT
73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Everything is running smoothly now, except my SSD boot that I am still unable to get starting.
Im using the above Wifi dongle and purchased a original D-Link DUB-H7 hub with external 5V power (Not the 12V as last time)
The USB2 hub is running very nicely, I can see the SDD when booted up in Raspbian (connected to the USB3 port) but cannot boot up in it. Will try and see whats wrong tonight.
Its mind boggling. Will maybe use the Y cable on the external USB 2 HUB (the power side) but otherwise its up and running and I'm broke and fed-up with these Raspberry pi 4 problems.
Its not easy, Maybe because I'm BBT.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

My RTS and DTR radio buttons is not on because its not connected with my homebrew cable, but it works
Pardon for the late reply, was out of office
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Still can't boot up with SSD, something maybe wrong
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

You can remove build a pi by removing the directory ~/pi-build This will not remove anything that you installed during the build. For that, you will need to flash a new card.
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Is there a command I can run to completely remove build-a-pi, so that I can reinstall everything fresh.?

Okay, I got it going. I am putting the settings for flrig below incase anyone else needs them. RTS + 12v and DTR + 12v needed to be on at the same time. @ZR4EM thank you for helping me figure this mess out!

I'm very new to this could you explain, "data flow, with one start bit, 8 data bits and two stop bits, no parity or flow control" what this looks like in the settings? I set to 4800 baud, and 2 stop bit same error.

@ZR4EM I am running a Raspberry Pi 4/4gig with buster and the build-a-pi script. I have looked at the baund rate in the 890 manual it says 4800, but I cannot find the other settings you mentioned. Thank you for helping me troubleshoot this.?

?

Jason solution worked well but I missed the colours used in Direwolf so I installed from the dev branch;

cd ~

git clone
cd direwolf

git checkout dev

mkdir build && cd build

cmake ..

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make -j4

sudo make install

you can continue to use your existing .conf file

Hi!
I also have a problem with GPS when using a USB 3 device. My GPS module is a Quectel L83, connected to GPIO serial port and an extra pin for 1PPS signal. When my RPi4 boots via the SD card there is no problem. To get rid of the slow SD cards I use an SSD inserted in a Orico USB3 enclosure. The boot time is great, the performance too. I have to fears of SD card failure. But there is a price - USB 3 uses spread spectrum for higher transfer rates and this is jamming GPS signal. Even my phone's GPS dies when it comes close to the RPi with the USB 3 disk. There are also issues with 2.4 GHz wireless - the RPi disconnects from the home AP. (There are also problems in the 2.4 GHz band when using a cheap HDMI cable for monitor connection - again the wifi link disconnects)
73!

LZ1DAF

See??regarding?Peripherals especially the power of the USB port, so it seems that the power drawn from the port more than allocated may make the whole device unstable:

Warning:

Adding peripherals may increase the loading on the power supply to your board and this, in turn, may affect the voltage presented to the Raspberry Pi. If the Raspberry Pi's supply voltage falls below a certain value (anecdotally stated as around 4.75?V), or it begins to fluctuate, your setup may become unstable.

and also?

Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change?This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100?mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the Raspberry Pi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012.??Warning: Because the polyfuses have been removed, back feeding of the PI, by applying power via its normal USB output, can damage D 17 if triggered by an over-voltage, and so lead to consequential over-heating. This can be discovered by melts, scorching, smoke or worse

So it seems that the power supplied to the USB ports is crytical, thus it may be advised to make use of powered USB Hubs?

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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

I see on the user manual of your rig its very similar to my FT-840.
On p31 in the manual it explains the data flow, with one start bit, 8 data bits and two stop bits, no parity or flow control.
I also see on p34 in the paragraph sending a command it mentions that the data rate is set to 4800 baud so your Virtual serial port should also be on 4800 baud, otherwise the data comms may be to fast. Check again the stop bit is set to 2 and not 1.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

It may be advantageous also to use a lower port speed than the maximum rate of your devices. My experience is that 9600 is the better rate as my FT-897 was previously set on 38k and it worked fine on windows, but not that well on the Raspberry Pi. Using 9600 (but I had to set the CAT speed of the rig to 9600) and my apps worked the best, and is fast enough.

73

Are U using a PC, MAC or Linux machine.
I also have some issues with FLrig and Fldigi but its more related to the sound, but what I can tell you is that all the baud rates and Com port settings have to be the same, e.g. the buad rate set on your rig (sometimes set on 9600 or 34500 or even 115k). It have to be the same as your hardware port (virtual port as the FTDi is creating a virtual com port) and the port speed of the FLrig. If the port speeds is not set the same, its interpreted as a bunch of garbage. Also have a look at the stop bits. I know that the Yaesu love to use two stop bits in stead of one. It must correspond everywhere. This is especially a problem with regard to virtual ports (e.g. FTDI, Prolific etc) created by USB to serial devices as this serial communications can be much faster than the original serial port speed of 9600 or 4800 baud. Had a similar problem with all my software and hardware, also jumping from the ESP32 chip to the arduino chip etc.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

So my Yeasu FT-890 is connected using a CAT to USB-FTDI cord my Baund is set at 4800 when I click Init I get this error:

Transceiver not responding!?
Check serial (COM) port connection?
Open menu Config/Setup/Transceiver
Press 'Ser Port' button, reselect port
Press 'Init' button

I though it was a cord issue that I bought on Amazon, so I purchased a new cord from the UK that was supposed to be the fix, but I'm still getting this issue. Any help would be appreciated.?

The problem, seems to me, may also be supply related as well as the Linux core. I'm not sure what anymore, Its just demoralizing to battle so much with a piece of hardware.
My order of business after failing again to boot from SSD, will be:

1. Carefully evaluate the power outputs of the USB ports, during boot-up and continuously when operating (is the USB port supplying adequate power to all the connected peripherals.
2. Have a look what the influence of the built-in WiFi is on the whole system. Compare it with different monitors e.g. DC or AC supply monitors as users expressed difficulty here. Test it with external WiFi devices and note the difference.
3. I have to rebuilt my GPS module as the previous one's is a paper weight ATM. Take careful note of the power requirements of it.
4. Check power requirements during startup of peripheral and see if some devices do not require more power with the initializing process.
5. Falling back to other externally powered USB hubs may not be an bad Idea, powering it from a stable DC-DC converter that is able to deliver enough power during peak requirements.

Something is wrong somewhere causing the USB devices to fail, and I'm determined to find out what the problem may be.

Stay safe everybody. Got also news that a school mate of me is seriously ill with COVID-19. Does not matter what the conspiracy theorist tells you or what everybody experience or where or how it originated, the point is its real.?
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Hi Craig
I also got that problem early on especially because I'm running from a UBEC supply directly coupled to the GPIO port but it seems that that is sorted. I will certainly have a close watch on that because I do not know what is happening during the running of the Pi after boot-up. Problems experienced with the pi may be that the PSU and supply to the USB become unstable especially with the fact that the Pi is not like a windows PC that will alert you if the USB devices is drawing too much power or that the Pi's USB ports do not have that much power compared to a PC. Maybe that is the problem, coupled with the fact that the Linux Core works different with the USB devices that the actual Debian Distro. I am just fed-up with the Pi4 atm. It gives me lot of grief that I may be too old to handle (the same as with digital modes). Sometimes the Pi's errors is just demoralizing and it drives me nuts. I battled till 2am local time this morning with the bloody Pi, to the frustration of the wife (and me).
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Hi Jason,

Did you check dmesg (diagnostic message)?log? That may give you some idea what is happening. From terminal just run dmesg (I prefer to add -T option to give the timestamp). There will be entries there anytime anything is connected or disconnected, and if there are power issues, you'll see that too. For example, here's what mine shows when running on an extremely under powered supply: