It may not be your fuse.

There's a thing called the K1000 2-step. Every time you open up one of these units, resolder the P1 connector on the power supply board and find the output stage relay and give it a nice tap. These two issues have been responsible for a lot of the troubles these units have. The P1 connector problem is an actual design flaw -- the power supply board doesn't radiate heat in the right way, so it softens the solder on the P1 connector and creates bad connections. Some folks have removed that connector completely and hard-soldered the connection, but I haven't heard any reports about if that works long-term. If you want pictures and instructions both of these procedures are on the K1000.net site. I remember doing anything with the fuse was a bear, and I don't remember anyone having to replace it, though I did have an AX+ that had the power module fail and it went for parts.

I've got two GX units that need the P1 repair done. The rest of my modules don't seem to have that problem, though it's been a while since I've been able to set my studio all the way up. But when I get things set up I'm going to pay someone to come in and resolder every single one of those connectors. (I've got four each of the Pro 1, Pro 2, and GX modules, though one GX needs an upgrade, plus a K1000 MKII Extended that's upgraded all the way)
Hope this helps,
Nicole

PS: I managed to replace the fuse once I figured out that just the tiny fusebox cover can be pulled off, rather than the entire AC block.

Thanks. It turns out the fuse was OK (I put it in another K1000 to check). So I will try your suggestion. Much obliged!

?The fuse is inside the panel with the fuse icon engraved on it. Not necessary to pull the entire IEC unit out. Get a Small screwdriver to snap/slide open the cover, carefully.

Patrick

Thanks Patrick! It was hard to see at first, but I've got the hang of it now. ??

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Great. ?They are a little evasive to find. ?