Re: A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new
Yep. He's doing all of this, and with luck I'll have a functioning GX I can sample -- my live rig is a lot more portable, and I need a bank of GX sounds for that, with a couple very important. This machine is destined to be a bass box -- I've got a sysex file of different bass sounds culled from a lot of sound banks.
Nicole
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of fop29, via groups.io Sent: Tuesday, August 6, 2024 8:12 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new So, what I would do if this were mine, is, replace all the Caps including the ones on the Power Supply board. Check the diodes for any defects such as reverse voltage. Diodes will give a reading in only one direction e.g. anode to cathode. Also replace the output relay, since it kicked, it¡¯s sticking inside. Patrick On Aug 4, 2024, at 8:54?PM, Daniel Forr¨® via groups.io <danforcz@...> wrote:
?Probably one of safety caps avoiding sparkles when switching on. They can die this way after years and sometimes even cause the fire. Just replace it, it will be OK. Another one can be somewhere in PSU primary circuit, replace it as well.
Daniel Forro
On Aug 5, 2024, at 6:47, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
Hello, folks.
So my repair guy tapped on the relay, it thunked, and he plugged it
in and pressed the power button. A capacitor right by the front power
button got hot and let all its smoke out. This can be a couple of
things -- that cap was needing replacement due to age, so it failed
when power got into the system. Or there's something else wrong that
overloaded that cap. There's also the biggest list of possible reasons -- something I don't know about.
Anyone got any ideas?
Nicole
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Re: A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new
So, what I would do if this were mine, is, replace all the Caps including the ones on the Power Supply board. Check the diodes for any defects such as reverse voltage. Diodes will give a reading in only one direction e.g. anode to cathode. Also replace the output relay, since it kicked, it¡¯s sticking inside.
Patrick
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On Aug 4, 2024, at 8:54?PM, Daniel Forr¨® via groups.io <danforcz@...> wrote:
?Probably one of safety caps avoiding sparkles when switching on. They can die this way after years and sometimes even cause the fire. Just replace it, it will be OK. Another one can be somewhere in PSU primary circuit, replace it as well.
Daniel Forro
On Aug 5, 2024, at 6:47, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
Hello, folks.
So my repair guy tapped on the relay, it thunked, and he plugged it in and
pressed the power button. A capacitor right by the front power button got
hot and let all its smoke out. This can be a couple of things -- that cap
was needing replacement due to age, so it failed when power got into the
system. Or there's something else wrong that overloaded that cap. There's
also the biggest list of possible reasons -- something I don't know about.
Anyone got any ideas?
Nicole
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Re: A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new
An electrolytic capacitor (like other caps) stores energy. An applied load cannot normally cause a capacitor to fail. It had to get hot internally to let its smoke out. My first thoughts, based on your reports, is that the relay was probably stuck (tapping it caused it to pick up) and when the circuit energized (assume it is the audio out, because the relay enables audio out) the capacitor failed. I do not have a schematic to see what else is in the circuit where the cap failed. If it is in a DC power circuit (most likely), the possibility exists that it may be a faulty diode (changes AC to DC) blasting a DC electrolytic capacitor with raw AC (rather than pulsating DC) would result in failure, could also be a circuit board trace problem (known issue) around the power supply area.? FWIW, YMMV Heather
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Re: A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new
Probably one of safety caps avoiding sparkles when switching on. They can die this way after years and sometimes even cause the fire. Just replace it, it will be OK. Another one can be somewhere in PSU primary circuit, replace it as well.
Daniel Forro
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On Aug 5, 2024, at 6:47, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
Hello, folks.
So my repair guy tapped on the relay, it thunked, and he plugged it in and
pressed the power button. A capacitor right by the front power button got
hot and let all its smoke out. This can be a couple of things -- that cap
was needing replacement due to age, so it failed when power got into the
system. Or there's something else wrong that overloaded that cap. There's
also the biggest list of possible reasons -- something I don't know about.
Anyone got any ideas?
Nicole
|
A Nonfunctioning 100gx -- Something new
Hello, folks.
So my repair guy tapped on the relay, it thunked, and he plugged it in and
pressed the power button. A capacitor right by the front power button got
hot and let all its smoke out. This can be a couple of things -- that cap
was needing replacement due to age, so it failed when power got into the
system. Or there's something else wrong that overloaded that cap. There's
also the biggest list of possible reasons -- something I don't know about.
Anyone got any ideas?
Nicole
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
|
Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
On the precursor to this list we predicted the price for the 100-1200 modules would go up. Back then they were selling for $100 consistently.
I'll go that route if I can't get this one back up, but I feel the more of these modules still in service the better it is for music.
Nicole
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Heather Boyle via groups.io Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 5:53 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Troubleshooting a 1000GX I noticed on ebay there are several GX1000 available for under $250. There is even one 23 button GX (very rare). This may be the easiest way to go. The 23 button GX may not even need a rom upgrade. Kind regards Heather
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Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
I noticed on ebay there are several GX1000 available for under $250. There is even one 23 button GX (very rare).
This may be the easiest way to go. The 23 button GX may not even need a rom upgrade.
Kind regards Heather
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Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
What you¡¯re describing is the delayed relay output. The relay is near the rear of the unit. It¡¯s Orange-yellow in color. About 1 inch big. I had to replace mine for the same reason. If you tap it and it kicks in, that¡¯s the problem. It¡¯s a Panasonic audio output relay.
Patrick
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On Jul 31, 2024, at 11:04?AM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
?Black squares isn't always a contrast problem -- the key is the second click. The device clicks when powered on. Then these units run their internal tests, and if everything's okay the relay is triggered to open the connection to the output section. This is the second click -- it's a design feature to keep from hitting the speakers with noise or too much electricity at once, for systems that use a power strip or switched surge protector to fire everything up. I'm not getting that second click, telling me either something's going wrong with the self test routines or the relay isn't being triggered/acting like it should. Does anyone have any possible other steps or details about this?
As mentioned before, I couldn't give a fingernail clipping for the displays, I don't/can't use them.
I'll have him check the battery though.
Nicole
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of fop29, via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2024 9:20 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Troubleshooting a 1000GX
Have someone check the battery voltage. Should be around 3.2 when new and 2.97; time to replace. Black squares is a contrast problem in the display. It can be replaced .
On Jul 28, 2024, at 11:20?PM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
?Hello folks,
I've been around here for a very long time, and I love these machines
(Better love them, I have thirteen of them). My one black sheep 1000GX
has been a problem child -- first it didn't boot. I had a friend
resolder the P1 connector. That got me the other common bane, black
boxes fever. Back in the dark ages that meant the relay hung, so I
sent my friend to the k1000.net site, but he didn't find a good
picture of where that relay is. He tapped on what he thought was the recalcitrant relay, but there was no joy from that.
Anyone know anything else that gives the screen black boxes? This is a
non-upgraded 1000GX -- I want to get it working before I worry about
finding someone to burn me an OS5 upgrade.
Anyone got any ideas (other than giving it to someone so they can
anchor their boat, I'm not doing that).
Nicole
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
|
Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
Black squares isn't always a contrast problem -- the key is the second click. The device clicks when powered on. Then these units run their internal tests, and if everything's okay the relay is triggered to open the connection to the output section. This is the second click -- it's a design feature to keep from hitting the speakers with noise or too much electricity at once, for systems that use a power strip or switched surge protector to fire everything up. I'm not getting that second click, telling me either something's going wrong with the self test routines or the relay isn't being triggered/acting like it should. Does anyone have any possible other steps or details about this?
As mentioned before, I couldn't give a fingernail clipping for the displays, I don't/can't use them.
I'll have him check the battery though.
Nicole
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of fop29, via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2024 9:20 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Troubleshooting a 1000GX Have someone check the battery voltage. Should be around 3.2 when new and 2.97; time to replace. Black squares is a contrast problem in the display. It can be replaced . On Jul 28, 2024, at 11:20?PM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
?Hello folks,
I've been around here for a very long time, and I love these machines
(Better love them, I have thirteen of them). My one black sheep 1000GX
has been a problem child -- first it didn't boot. I had a friend
resolder the P1 connector. That got me the other common bane, black
boxes fever. Back in the dark ages that meant the relay hung, so I
sent my friend to the k1000.net site, but he didn't find a good
picture of where that relay is. He tapped on what he thought was the recalcitrant relay, but there was no joy from that.
Anyone know anything else that gives the screen black boxes? This is a
non-upgraded 1000GX -- I want to get it working before I worry about
finding someone to burn me an OS5 upgrade.
Anyone got any ideas (other than giving it to someone so they can
anchor their boat, I'm not doing that).
Nicole
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
|
Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
Have someone check the battery voltage. Should be around 3.2 when new and 2.97; time to replace. Black squares is a contrast problem in the display. It can be replaced .
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On Jul 28, 2024, at 11:20?PM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote:
?Hello folks,
I've been around here for a very long time, and I love these machines
(Better love them, I have thirteen of them). My one black sheep 1000GX has
been a problem child -- first it didn't boot. I had a friend resolder the P1
connector. That got me the other common bane, black boxes fever. Back in the
dark ages that meant the relay hung, so I sent my friend to the k1000.net
site, but he didn't find a good picture of where that relay is. He tapped on
what he thought was the recalcitrant relay, but there was no joy from that.
Anyone know anything else that gives the screen black boxes? This is a
non-upgraded 1000GX -- I want to get it working before I worry about finding
someone to burn me an OS5 upgrade.
Anyone got any ideas (other than giving it to someone so they can anchor
their boat, I'm not doing that).
Nicole
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
|
Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
Yeah, I've got several of the modules with fading screens, but I don't use that as a method of access to the instrument because I'm blind. The cool thing is that everything up to the K2600 (and maybe the K2661) sends all front panel information through MIDI as sysex, so programs that can read this can replace the display.
We checked all the chips and looked at traces. My friend also checked out all the caps -- none of them were leaking or growing fat.
I'll mention the battery to him though.
Nicole
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of mjkirk12 via groups.io Sent: Monday, July 29, 2024 12:10 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Troubleshooting a 1000GX Not an expert on the 1000-X rack units or black box screens -but here are some things I have repaired on older synths. Any EPROMs or other ICs are in sockets may have some oxidation on the pins preventing full startup due to intermittent connection. With power removed, slowly lift IC from socket and plug it back in. (don't even need to remove completely). Or for best results - remove and clean pins with isopropyl alcohol. Also, the PC solder connections can crack from heat over time (hairline size) - giving intermittent or no connection. Visually check, reheat and reflow the solder to fix. Could also have solder cracks (or PCB trace cracks) if the box was dropped. If these have CCFL (cold cathode florescent lamp) for LCD backlight - that could be bad. In that case, unit will still make sounds, but the display will be dark. I replaced my K1000 LCD with one having a LED backlight. There are some notes on this site describing what I (and others) have done to fix. Check the backup battery voltage - replace if low. I had an Alesis synth with this problem, the battery voltage was around 2 volts. Unfortunately, this clobbered the SRAM chip - replaced to fix. SRAM chip holds the settings with battery supply when main power is off. Digital logic and RAM like to have > 2.8 volts or zero volts, but in-between voltage (like 2 volts) over time will cause them to fail. Best of luck. -Mike
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Re: Troubleshooting a 1000GX
Not an expert on the 1000-X rack units or black box screens -but here are some things I have repaired on older synths.
?
Any EPROMs or other ICs are in sockets may have some oxidation on the pins preventing full startup due to intermittent connection.
With power removed, slowly lift IC from socket and plug it back in.? (don't even need to remove completely).
Or for best results -? remove and clean pins with isopropyl alcohol.
?
Also, the PC solder connections can crack from heat over time (hairline size) - giving intermittent or no connection.
Visually check, reheat and reflow the solder to fix.?? Could also have solder cracks (or PCB trace cracks)? if the box was dropped.
?
If these have CCFL (cold cathode florescent lamp) for LCD backlight - that could be bad.
In that case, unit will still make sounds, but the display will be dark.
I replaced my K1000 LCD with one having a LED backlight.??
There are some notes on this site describing what I (and others) have done to fix.
?
Check the backup battery voltage - replace if low.??
I had an Alesis synth with this problem, the battery voltage was around 2 volts. Unfortunately, this clobbered the SRAM chip - replaced to fix.?
SRAM chip holds the settings with battery supply when main power is off.
Digital logic and RAM like to have > 2.8 volts or zero volts, but in-between voltage? (like 2 volts) over time will cause them to fail.
?
Best of luck.
-Mike
|
Hello folks,
I've been around here for a very long time, and I love these machines
(Better love them, I have thirteen of them). My one black sheep 1000GX has
been a problem child -- first it didn't boot. I had a friend resolder the P1
connector. That got me the other common bane, black boxes fever. Back in the
dark ages that meant the relay hung, so I sent my friend to the k1000.net
site, but he didn't find a good picture of where that relay is. He tapped on
what he thought was the recalcitrant relay, but there was no joy from that.
Anyone know anything else that gives the screen black boxes? This is a
non-upgraded 1000GX -- I want to get it working before I worry about finding
someone to burn me an OS5 upgrade.
Anyone got any ideas (other than giving it to someone so they can anchor
their boat, I'm not doing that).
Nicole
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
|
Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
On Sat, Feb 24, 2024 at 04:51 PM, Dynahoe Dave wrote:
Actually, the pad is made up like this - the pads are the round and square shapes at the ends of traces.? They have a hole that goes all the way through the board.? The inside face of the hole is then plated with copper, which mechanically and electrically connects to the pad on the top and bottom side of the board.? These are the toughest type of PCB / pads to harm.? To bridge them, you want both melted, and add a little solder, move the iron between the 2 a bit, to help drag one ball over to the other pad.? Add a little to each, back and forth.? It shouldn't take more than a few tens of seconds.? Make sure you use thin [about .030" diameter]? [.060" max] electronic solder, flux core. ?? They don't have to melt all the way through, just what you can see.
Dave
Thanks again. :)
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Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
Actually, the pad is made up like this
- the pads are the round and square shapes at the ends of traces.?
They have a hole that goes all the way through the board.? The
inside face of the hole is then plated with copper, which
mechanically and electrically connects to the pad on the top and
bottom side of the board.? These are the toughest type of PCB /
pads to harm.? To bridge them, you want both melted, and add a
little solder, move the iron between the 2 a bit, to help drag one
ball over to the other pad.? Add a little to each, back and
forth.? It shouldn't take more than a few tens of seconds.? Make
sure you use thin [about .030" diameter]? [.060" max] electronic
solder, flux core. ?? They don't have to melt all the way through,
just what you can see.
Dave
On 2/22/2024 8:28 PM, jambutterr via groups.io wrote:
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To Dynahoe Dave:
Here is a picture of what I believe the solder pad to look like:
A shallow copper basin filled to the brim with solder (which can
be melted with the soldering iron). When making a 'bridge' in
between the two solder pads would I have to heat the copper
'basin' as well, or would applying heat the the top most layer of
solder be enough??? That's my question.
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What year was the Kurzweil Pro 2 released??
There is very little info online about the Pro-2. I found a review that suggests the Pro-1 was released in 1990, but nothing on the Pro-2. Does anyone have any info on this (ads, flyers, reviews, etc.)?
Link to Pro-1 review:
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Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
To Dynahoe Dave: Here is a picture of what I believe the solder pad to look like:  A shallow copper basin filled to the brim with solder (which can be melted with the soldering iron). When making a 'bridge' in between the two solder pads would I have to heat the copper 'basin' as well, or would applying heat the the top most layer of solder be enough??? That's my question.
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Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
To Dynahoe Dave: Yes. I just inserted a the tip of the soldering iron into one of the solder pads. They do in fact melt, so at least part of them is made of solder. The soldering iron doesn't go in very deeply, and stops very shortly after insertion,? There is probably copper beneath- as if? the 'solder pad'? is very shallow copper basin filled with solder, like you said. Is this something you have encountered before?? Would melting the solder on top of the copper be problematic? I was asking specifically should I (or most likely, the specialist) simply insert the soldering iron's tip into the solder pad, thereby also heating the copper beneath the solder to the correct temperature, and then apply solder wire to it to bridge between it and the adjacent solder pad? I've circled the 'solder pad' with a red circle. This is what can be melted with the solder . 
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Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
Do you have a picture?? Or is it the
one in the post on 2/15 at 12:31 ?
I have repaired / modified / designed printed circuits for around
40-50 years.? Pads on any board I have ever seen, or touched are
copper.? Pads made as option jumpers might have solder on them,
but the solder is on top of the copper.? The copper is bonded to
the fiberglass board.? Depending on the board quality, you do have
to work fast.? Some of the lower quality boards the bonding isn't
good, and the adhesive lets go.? Sometimes, it's easier to use a
small piece of fine wire to make the jumper, as opposed to
blobbing on enough solder to get it to bridge.?
I have a couple of K1000 keyboards, and one of the rack mount
version of the same.? I have worked on them in the past, never
noticed anything unusual about them.?
Dave
On 2/19/2024 2:19 PM, jambutterr via groups.io wrote:
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[Edited Message Follows]
To Dynahoe Dave:
Most of the soldering tutorials tell you to how to solder solder
wire to metals of a much higher melting point. In the Kurzweil
1000, the solder pads are made of solder and can be melted just as
easily as the solder wire, that's why I was confused. Any thoughts
on this?
What should I tell the computer/electronics center?
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Re: Upgrading Kurzweil 1000 PX: Should I touch the soldering iron to the two solder pads of JP03??
Okay. I will give them the URL. thx
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