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hi to all i whant know from all of you how you deal with epoxy blush its ok to flush with warm water and sceen pad but water with wood not see perfect solution for me ( bare wood parts) i understand

The following photos have been uploaded to the DUO 800S Australia ( /g/K-designs-Multihull-Sailboats/album?id=242878 ) album of the [email protected] group. *

The following photos have been uploaded to the D.R. Voyager Build ( /g/K-designs-Multihull-Sailboats/album?id=140477 ) album of the [email protected] group. *

All hand cut.....well I used a hand held circular?saw (really useful tool!) and a jigsaw

Hi Great start. I will be following your build and look forward to the photos. I intent to start building the Eco75 and later KD122 next year. It looks like you cbc cut the frames and bulkhead,May I

Hi Richard, glad you enjoyed my build so far. I hope to have it finished for spring. For the bow section I did use two layers of 3mm plywood put on individually rather than one layer of I think they

Thanks for the link. Your build quality is really nice and you have done a lovely job of laminating the handrails. I note that you did not laminate the bows, but made them per the plans. I have

Hi to all Very nice to see all the activities going on here in the group. Thanks for every photo. Besides showing the progress from a boat under construction, it will help others to start their

Hi Richard, I also built an Eco 7.5 too. I used a similar system laminating 7 layers of 6mm plywood for a large D shape on the bow curve. To lighten the bow weight I cut large box holes in the final

Good evening to everybody, I added new Photos of the Duo 900 Italy. The hull is completed I have just to add the fiberglass and then I turn the hull

Hi Richard, here is a link to what I did for the bow of my Eco5.5. I used two 3mm pieces put on individually but laminated them together. I then glassed them on both sides.?? PhilBuilding My Solar

Hi, I am building an ECO75 and was thinking of laminating up the curved bow out of layers of 3mm marine ply rather than constructing it out of pieces 25x35 and 25x20 timber per the plans. It looks to

No idea ! :) I don't remember where and when I read it. But I tried few times and it was quite right, but as we sayed with Bernd, for industrial production. ----- Mail original ----- De:

I happened to find an old Austrailian Boat Broker sales page with many ECO 7.5 photos. I have seen some before but not all of them. David

On our Voyager we ended up with five separate buoyancy compartments in each hull as we divided the bigger aft one into two. We ran conduits through them in some places. Each of the compartments has at

Hi Cyril. I mean timber structure sealed with epoxy. Usually the timber was laminated to make it more stable. So we used plywood, cold molding, and strip planking for hull skins and laminated wood for

Thank you David ! When you write "expoxy-timber", you mean "epoxy impregnated plywood without fiberglass" ? ----- Mail original ----- De: "David Mancebo via groups.io"

Richard, you would be right in an ideal world. My experience is that few "watertight" compartments are truely waterrtight. I raced International 10 Square Meter canoes and 5o5's for many years. All of

Hi David, I don’t have your shipbuilding experience, but I fail to see how there can be a rot or mildew problem inside a totally sealed, epoxy lined compartment. (Emphasis on totally sealed, no deck

Thank you David for writing detailed about your experience. A lot of stuff to think about. Gru?, Günter