开云体育

Hi Zee
One of the good things about plywood multihulls, the are light. Good to hear that it was also easy for you to turn the hull.
You are right the learning curve is steep.
To the rudder system.The rudder action is in this way because of the main sheet holder. There is not enough space for a rudder mounted tiller.
Please send me the rudder housing drawing. I will change to the system I use now. I need only the housing drawing
Cheers

Bernd

On Thu, Dec 24, 2020 at 04:04 PM, Zee wrote:

Hi Bernd , it was just me and my wife turning the hull , the straps were rigged in a way that it needs just light push to turn in either direction slowly and controlled . Most simple set up , thanks to the veranda beams , I just put the straps over the beams and tension acted as a brake . Today second hull is all set , bulkheads and stringers . This hull will go quick as all the tricky bits are done already, mast base and the dagger board case plus the experience. I love this boat more every day as it appears .hull feels great when I lift one end , so light . It’s gonna be one fast boat ,that’s sure . I will have inbuilt water tanks in each hull around dagger case ,up to the bunk level , from bulkhead 3 to 4 . I think it will be about 100 litres each . I will use food grade resin coating I found , it’s specially made to use for water tanks . I will have two inspections hutches to be able to clean the tanks . There is one thing on this boat I would like to change , the rudders . I would like to have simple pull up blade rudders , with ?closed case ?, like the ones on your other recently designed boats . Also tiller connection bar to go across the deck rather than connecting at rudder cases . I would appreciate if you can send me some rudders drawings of your other boat that is near my specks , I can guess the amount of glass etc. for the right strength . I wish you all the best this festive season and a Happy New Year , cheers?

Hi Bernd , it was just me and my wife turning the hull , the straps were rigged in a way that it needs just light push to turn in either direction slowly and controlled . Most simple set up , thanks to the veranda beams , I just put the straps over the beams and tension acted as a brake . Today second hull is all set , bulkheads and stringers . This hull will go quick as all the tricky bits are done already, mast base and the dagger board case plus the experience. I love this boat more every day as it appears .hull feels great when I lift one end , so light . It’s gonna be one fast boat ,that’s sure . I will have inbuilt water tanks in each hull around dagger case ,up to the bunk level , from bulkhead 3 to 4 . I think it will be about 100 litres each . I will use food grade resin coating I found , it’s specially made to use for water tanks . I will have two inspections hutches to be able to clean the tanks . There is one thing on this boat I would like to change , the rudders . I would like to have simple pull up blade rudders , with ?closed case ?, like the ones on your other recently designed boats . Also tiller connection bar to go across the deck rather than connecting at rudder cases . I would appreciate if you can send me some rudders drawings of your other boat that is near my specks , I can guess the amount of glass etc. for the right strength . I wish you all the best this festive season and a Happy New Year , cheers?

Hi Jon
We are building a Voyager and plan to use a more typical center mast. I do want to keep the roller reefing main so that means behind the mast furling, accomplished with a bracket at the top and at the bottom of the mast to hold a cable in tension just aft of the mast. We built a wishbone boom according to the original plans and right now we plan to use it with the roller furling main.?

Cheers
Patrick

Best solution is to use a different epoxy....having used West epoxy in the past I have had a lot of problems with amine blush (building in an unheated barn) and the only solution I have found is to wash it off with soap and warm water. If you leave it for a while after cleaning you may find more blush comes to the surface so I try and overcoat it as soon as it is dry after washing. A 2nd coat of epoxy (or varnish/paint) will not bond properly if there is any amine blush present. Not too helpful, I hope someone has a better answer for you.

Richard

Hi Domenico
Great progress. I like what I see. You changed the cockpit a bit?
Merry Christmas to you and your family

Merry Christmas and a Happy new year to all

Cheers

Bernd

As always, great photographs Domenico. You are working quickly. I enjoy watching your progress. Your construction site seems to be outside under a tarp. Are low temperatures due to the winter season causing delays for you?

David Mancebo

I understand that the A frame rig and square top main is no longer in favour as the A frame is proving to expensive to build . What does the roller reefing main sail use now
as a mast instead of the A frame .A home constructed wing sail or two aluminium tubes as you have mentioned in the Files section.

Good evening to everybody,
I added new Photos of the Duo 900 Italy. The hull is completed I have just to add the fiberglass and then I turn the hull
/g/K-designs-Multihull-Sailboats/album?id=256248

Hi Stephane

Modern Epoxies have almost no blush problem. For the first coat of Epoxy no special cleaning of the plywood is necessary.
After the first coat is cured. You have to sand down the upstanding fibers. So no cleaning with water is necessary. You dust off the
fibers from the plywood and apply the next coat. We never clean with water the first layer. When we use Acetone.?

Cheers

Bernd

Thanks for the turning sequence. Solo action or were there more persons to help?
Nice job
Cheers

Bernd

Hi Pete
I answered you in a way already. Looks almost to perfect, kidding. Is this your
house too. Looks great an a very romantic setting. Thanks for posting the pictures.

Cheers

Bernd

The following photos have been uploaded to the DUO 800S Australia album of the [email protected] group.

• A11FD171-9ACD-4FCC-B72B-99D34DC518F3.jpeg
• 7C8CD578-5C94-4C44-AC90-1052758A3485.jpeg
• DCA3DBA2-7914-435F-BFDC-4D38F48F952F.jpeg
• 455CCF40-7AD5-469A-B672-FD4EDF6EA093.jpeg
• B33FBED8-4935-4CD6-9E67-702A1F1B8A53.jpeg
• 08E9A52D-6EA3-4D82-8991-4DBE33A9EF91.jpeg

By: Zee

Hello
Slow but steady progress. It's been almost ten years since I started, time flies.
After launch in summer 2018 I have had my KD860 ashore for about a year. I finished painting indiside and most of the electrics last summer. I wish I will finish the outside next summer: painting, rig, tramps, railings, ... We'll see.
I posted some pictures in KD860FI folder.
Cheers,
Pete

Hi,

It's just as you mentioned. Simply all?you need to do is get a plant spray container, some warm soapy water and a pad. Spray the affected surface with the solution, wash thoroughly using the pad, wipe dry with paper towels.
I have been looking at the KD1000 all morning comparing with KD122. The KD1000 looks more interesting now. Because of the cockpit size and the canopy of the KD860 being limited and not high enough respectively, I would choose the KD1000. The canopy is interesting especially the ones posted by Bernd in the Photos section.