same to you

Bernd

Time for a break and time for the family.

I wish you to and all the others a happy new year

It was not my intention to push you. The point is, everyone in this group and there are many. As you mention, for example Andrew to share there experience. This will help othewr builders to try new avenues. Or for smaller designs Hans and his "Little Tri". The idea with the garden hose as joint and so one.?

Sorry Patrick, I will look at your file when my Internet is working better.

Cheers

Bernd

I am very much a beginner with carbon fittings, so to the rest of the group, what experiences have you had with carbon fiber fittings? What have you learned that you can share with us? It will help a lot.?

Andrew, welcome to the dad club. The pictures of your chainplates helped me a ton, by the way.?

Cheers

Patrick

Thank you for your great description. It covers the main issues in an easy to understand way.?

Can you pleace place this in the FILE section please. Including the drawing. Let the first part away because it covers ideas how Tiago can still go on. If I had to do it with my bad English I prever your clear description. You have not to make a new text. Put it in as DOC file or PDF it will not matter.

How is the Voyager coming? Dit you find the right hydraulics? Look at VETUS the have good information. ?You can even load the mounting instruction there.

Cheers

Bernd

Hi Thiago

The D.R. Voyager is our build. Good job taking the time clean up and fillet as you go. I think you will be glad you did. And remember you can probably also make your beams before you get a larger shed. And the other smaller parts like the rudders etc.?

I highly recommend making your own carbon chainplates and deck cleats. And brackets for anything too, if you can make them work. There are two general methods that I have seen and used:

“鲍苍颈-诲谤补辫别”

This method is to clamp your pipe or tube (with plastic around it) in place on top of a plywood spacer, then drape uni carbon over the tube and down beyond the spacer in layers to build up strength. I like to wrap a little fiberglass around the pipe first. This is a good method for making chainplates and deck cleats. Bernd wrote an article for chainplates and another for deck cleats using pictures from Andrew’s green 860 using this method. The article is in the files section of this forum.?

“Laminate and drill”

The other method is to use a large block of wood covered in plastic as a mold and drape your carbon or glass over the block, alternating the direction of the strands, or using a combination of biax and uni. In this method you make a “C” or “L” bracket, cut it into the shape you want, glue it in place, then drill a hole through it. This is the method Bernd recommends for gudgeons.?

And there is a blog where a guy uses this method to make a snatch block: http://maiaaboard.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-post-carbon-fiber-snatch-block.html

I used the uni-drape method for my cross beam brackets in the photos, but if I had to do it again I would have used the other method to make L brackets. I would have done this: After reinforcing the hull with extra plywood, cut a slot through the hull. Then laminate a long L ?(right angle beam) using a big block of wood as a mold. Alternate strand direction. First and last layer should be fiberglass cloth. ?Sand and carefully cut the long L into shorter pieces. Fit one piece through the slot in the hull. Fit another piece outside of the hull, butted next to the first piece. Glue them in place together, cut the flush and drill a hole through them. This is one possible way to make brackets that hold an aluminum tube. Or any kind of eye, for that matter. The bracket outside the hull is only needed for applications that force the bracket back towards the hull. Of course you could also make the slot wider and make brackets on the other side as well. Or change the angle of the bracket to align better with the load. Like a chafe-free anchor point. ?

Cheers

Patrick

? ?

No time for boat building in the North. You are rigth. Huminity is one of the big problems and from many neglected. Special when you work with plywood (in your case a bit different with your material).?

So a good time for the family.

Thanks for your nice words. Yes, I have a lot of friends, also here in Maisons. It is a small community of only 17 inhapitants where the people care about each other. Besides a lot of Englsih friends here around. I could go to the Netherlands where I have also a lot of friends or Spain. I prever to stay here over the Christmas time. The French do not so much about Christams, so here is the place for my in this time.?

So to all my christmas greetings and take care of each other.

Best regards

Bernd

Hi Bernd, ?thanks for your positive words.?

I saw the post on Duckworks too. ?What's not to like? ?No surprise plenty of admiration for a superb job.

cheers

Col

I am serously in awe. ?You've done a marvelous job. ?I cannot wait to see images of boat rigged and (hopefully) in the future, some video of HAC sailing (if you keep the name).

cheers and good luck with the sea trials.

Col

Cheers

Patrick

Thank you for your explanation how you handle the boards. By the way, instead of Teflon I reccoment on the drawing a coat of Epoxy/Grafit/silica. Same effect as Teflon. I propose to us the luffboard for load reasons on the bearing and lower daggerboard part + guide. It is a question of praticing. All the theoretic stuff helps nothing, you have to do and experience it. I am not so keen on holding the boards down with elastic, because the load can be highers as the elastic allows or be to strong in the case of grounding the do not rise. It is a question of playing with the system. Debries can be easy removed, you can have it on all appendages which are lower as the hulls (rudders, fixed keels a real dagger board which you have to rise (more worse) etc). A spash of water on the daggerboard case you will not feel or the boat speed would be measurable different. In theory always a pro and con can be found. So in the end lets use the system and go sailing. Then you get automatic the answers. And as last remark, have you ever cleaned and re-painted a center or dagger board box after the boat was a saison it the water? So, this was my final remark to this thema.?

Anybody building, special down under, sailing done? or others nice small or big things done??

Cheers (sh..t need a new bottle of Wodka)

Bernd

?

Hi Howard, David

usually i kept both boards down going up-wind and one down on half-wind course. Usually did not do the effort to lower/raise after each tack.

The rubber band was fixed, pulling the board down. I newer released that one except for the winter storage. For raising the board there was a 1:2 block.

. . . .

yes you are right - the pivot-base draged in the water sometimes. With picking up some debris i did not have issues, maybe also because the water is quite clean where i sail. I rarely had the case to pickup smth either with the rudders or outboard.

Regards, Primoz