Hi Bernd
For lamination of the wing mast I will make a 600gr unidirectional fiberglass layer and a quadaxial 820 gr fiberglass layer. Without lamination it came very stiff and solid and the weight is 42 kg, the two spreaders in the center and the lamination are missing and I think I am under 60 kg. I preferred to have a strong structure and not just think about weight as many do. My thoughts.
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The boat has been painted white the upper part and the silver hulls. Now at home in the cool :-)) I prepare the net for the trampoline.
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I'm not working right now, temperatures here in southern Italy are not 40 degrees but around 32/35 degrees. We can't work for the moment.
In September we will start again, I will dedicate 10 days of work to finish the Duo and then I will resume the KD122 for the final phase.
Hello happy holidays everyone I need it ...
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Hi Domenico
Thank you for the photos.
You are really a hard worker.
Your wing mast progress is respectable.
Next step? UD carbon and glass? Finishing with?
Can you work with these temperatures?
Here it is at the moment, 41 degrees.
Hi guys, if you read this. What you are up to?
Any progress, photos, videos?
Cheers
Bernd
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi Jack
This is the pic I have. But here is the link?
Cheers
Bernd
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi Bernd,
Any idea how I can see the picture which you added to your reply?
Regards,? Jack
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
It is indecent what electric outboard engines are sold for. They make big money because it is fashionable to use e-outboard drives.
Also when they are made in the USA or Europe. In any case, the rare earth magnets for the motors
and the electronic components are coming mainly from China.
Here is a screenshot from a short specification and the prices for three interesting outboard engines. The comparable 20 Hp version costs 4800,- Euro. Compare! 
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi Phil
I see you are enjoying the summertime.? Have a good time, and yes, keep me informed
Cheers
Bernd?
Le mardi 19 juillet 2022 ¨¤ 18:49:57 UTC+2, Phil Boyer via groups.io <philaboyer@...> a ¨¦crit :
Hi Bernd, I am heading out on a canoe trip this week and then home for a week before I head out on my probably 24 day solar electric trip. I will be going up and back along the Trent Severn Waterway which connects Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. Total distance there and back to my dock is 1000 km.
I will keep you posted on how I do. I will also be putting out a link to Locatoweb which is an on line tracker and you can follow me in real time.
Phil
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi Bernd, I am heading out on a canoe trip this week and then home for a week before I head out on my probably 24 day solar electric trip. I will be going up and back along the Trent Severn Waterway which connects Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. Total distance there and back to my dock is 1000 km.
I will keep you posted on how I do. I will also be putting out a link to Locatoweb which is an on line tracker and you can follow me in real time.
Phil
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi Phil
Any pound you can remove will help to make the boat better.
As you mentioned, you got rid of a lot of weight.?
Remove the ash stringers only when it is easy to do. Because there is not
this much time for your long journey.?
Bernd?
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Moderated
Re: Composite staples and the manual Rapter stapler
For fixing large paneIsI I just use lots of small A4 stainless screws and mostly leave them in. I do take them out where I need to use the power plane! If I do need to file them down my belt sander hardly notices they are there. A4 screws are not cheap, but small beer in the overall build cost. I will probably use circa 1000 on my Eco 75 build.
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Nice! Trying to get out there for the show...
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April whooshed right on by, and the revised launch goal is before the end of August. (Prior to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, in which it's entered.)
But it's getting right along, with final fairing, paint and systems the only un-checked items on the list. Oh, and getting it on the trailer, which should be heaps of fun. :)
<PXL_20220622_230034291.jpg><PXL_20220622_225958844.jpg>
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
The?KARVIN 6800 L type W - long shaft. (Shipping worked ok, but was not cheap!)
()
Jim
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
A Karvin electric outboard, I wondering how it performs. It was one of my first choices. Which type do you got? ? Regards,? Jack ?
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Van: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Namens James Jones
Verzonden: zondag 17 juli 2022 20:05
Aan: [email protected]
Onderwerp: Re: [K-Designs-Multihull-Sailboats] Seattle Eco 55 power cat build ? Thanks!
And here's the outboard. A bit of an experiment -- I'm looking forward to finding out how well the whole solar approach works out in practice.
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Moderated
Re: Composite staples and the manual Rapter stapler
I used bigger? diameter? washers to prevent screws going into a plywood and have a better clamping power. To plug holes? i used epoxy glue and "marine" grade toothpicks. Works well.
Vlad.
On the subject of clamps I had a usual selection of about a dozen sliding clamps of various sizes which were useful for all the various normal clamping jobs entailed with boatbuilding, and I had 10 single hand clamps which were useful for quick clamping jobs such as holding a piece of plywood in place on stringers until I could get screws in, or while I was marking out. I do not know what the pressure rating of these little clamps is but just two of them were capable of holding a 6mm sheet of plywood in a vertical position. ? But for just about all of my gluing I used screws to hold things in place and to clamp joints while the glue was curing. I had a selection of various length plasterboard screws, for example 16mm for attaching the 6mm plywood. These were just temporary fastenings and were removed once the glue had cured but I found this the best way to effectively clamp everything when gluing. In previous builds I have used a power screw driver to set these screws in, but for my Eco 6 I screwed everything by hand using a ratchet screw driver. This was a little extra work but I have found that using a power driver can cause the screws to go in too tight and therefore squeezing glue out of the joint, whereas by putting the screws in by hand I was able to feel how much pressure I was applying, but I did use a power driver to remove the screws.? There was a little bit of work involved later on filling screw holes, but it is just part of a boat build. ? David
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Moderated
Re: Composite staples and the manual Rapter stapler
On the subject of clamps I had a usual selection of about a dozen sliding clamps of various sizes which were useful for all the various normal clamping jobs entailed with boatbuilding, and I had 10 single hand clamps which were useful for quick clamping jobs such as holding a piece of plywood in place on stringers until I could get screws in, or while I was marking out. I do not know what the pressure rating of these little clamps is but just two of them were capable of holding a 6mm sheet of plywood in a vertical position. ? But for just about all of my gluing I used screws to hold things in place and to clamp joints while the glue was curing. I had a selection of various length plasterboard screws, for example 16mm for attaching the 6mm plywood. These were just temporary fastenings and were removed once the glue had cured but I found this the best way to effectively clamp everything when gluing. In previous builds I have used a power screw driver to set these screws in, but for my Eco 6 I screwed everything by hand using a ratchet screw driver. This was a little extra work but I have found that using a power driver can cause the screws to go in too tight and therefore squeezing glue out of the joint, whereas by putting the screws in by hand I was able to feel how much pressure I was applying, but I did use a power driver to remove the screws. ?There was a little bit of work involved later on filling screw holes, but it is just part of a boat build. ? David
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi James I also built an Eco 5.5 and put solar on it. I have been experimenting with either a Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 (5hp) or an Elco EP20 (20hp).
I can move the boat at 12 km/hr with the Torqeedo and plan to use it for a 22 day trip in Aug. I have a Youtube channel where I have a series of building the modified Echo "Building My Solar Electric Catamaran" or search for my name Phil Boyer (not the country and western singer).
Phil
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Thanks! And here's the outboard. A bit of an experiment -- I'm looking forward to finding out how well the whole solar approach works out in practice. 
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
James, your boat really looks good, enjoy. cheers Philip Malan
On Sunday, 17 July 2022 at 13:01:44 SAST, Bernd Kohler <ikarus342000@...> wrote:
Hi James
What progress. She is looking good. Not this much more work to do to make it to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
It depends on your trailer, how difficult or easy it will be to get her on the trailer.
By the way, what outboard engine will you use?
Have fun
Bernd
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
Hi James
What progress. She is looking good. Not this much more work to do to make it to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
It depends on your trailer, how difficult or easy it will be to get her on the trailer.
By the way, what outboard engine will you use?
Have fun
Bernd
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Re: Seattle Eco 55 power cat build
April whooshed right on by, and the revised launch goal is before the end of August. (Prior to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, in which it's entered.) But it's getting right along, with final fairing, paint and systems the only un-checked items on the list. Oh, and getting it on the trailer, which should be heaps of fun. :)  
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Moderated
Re: Composite staples and the manual Rapter stapler
Hi Rod
I have a lot of 2 inch spring clamps that are very handy and worth the money spent on them. ?They can fit over two stringers if that is required and still work fine for ply on a stringer. I think the key is to add enough pressure to get a little squeeze out, which lets you know the joint is filled with epoxy. After that you only need holding pressure, which usually depends on how curved the plywood or stringer is.?
In some cases I use a C-clamp (that screws down) to get squeeze out, then add spring clamps which are enough to hold it in place. Then I move the C-clamp further down the board and continue adding spring clamps after getting squeeze out.?
If I can¡¯t get a clamp over it, I use screws and later fill the hole. I did use a the composite nails for the planking, but they only hold, they do not increase pressure to get squeeze-out like screws do.?
Cheers
Patrick
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Bernd Kohler
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