Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
- JackAl
- Messages
Search
Re: display
I said go INTO the setup() function and place the code. You didn't. It should be: void setup() { // a bunch of statements.... // At the very bottom of setup, BUT INSIDE IT ? for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) {
?? tft.setRotation( (uint8_t) i);
?? tft.setCursor(10, 10);
?? tft.print("New rotation value of ");
?? tft.print(i);
?? delay(5000);?????? // You have 5 seconds to
view the message ? } Jack, W8TEE
On Monday, April 1, 2019, 7:24:21 PM EDT, k7da <k7da@...> wrote:
i got an error as follows
Arduino: 1.8.8 (Windows 10), TD: 1.45, Board: "Teensy 3.6,
Serial, 180 MHz, Faster, US English"
dave k7da
On 4/1/2019 5:58 AM, jjpurdum via
Groups.Io wrote:
I assume that you have a graphics object named tft.
Go into the setup() function and add this code at the bottom:
for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) {
?? tft.setRotation( (uint8_t) i);
?? tft.setCursor(10, 10);
?? tft.print("New rotation value of ");
?? tft.print(i);
?? delay(5000);?????? // You have 5 seconds to
view the message
}
and see if any of the rotation values works for what you
need.
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 31, 2019, 11:26:30 PM EDT, k7da
<k7da@...> wrote:
i mounted the display upside down and turning it over makes it not fit the hole. so i need to turn the picture upside down. is that possible in sofeward or alectrically? dave k7da
On
3/31/2019 7:57 PM, jjpurdum via Groups.Io wrote:
What do you mean "turned over"? There's a
Landscape and Portrait mode
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 31, 2019, 10:29:40 PM EDT,
k7da <k7da@...>
wrote:
can the display be turned over in
software?
dave k7da
|
Re: display
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýi got an error as follows
Arduino: 1.8.8 (Windows 10), TD: 1.45, Board: "Teensy 3.6,
Serial, 180 MHz, Faster, US English"
dave k7da
On 4/1/2019 5:58 AM, jjpurdum via
Groups.Io wrote:
|
New Wiring Harness Assembly Instructions, Display Protection Circuit.
All: Several of you have written me saying that you were having difficulty making the wiring harness for the JackAl system because the directions weren't clear. (I believe the word "sucks" was used once, too!) Fact is, what I wrote does suck and I fear it was as bad as it was because I was "too close" to the project. I've taken a number of steps back and reexamined the documentation and agreed it needed to be rewritten. I have attached the new instructions for assembling the harness and Al has added a bunch of new photos to go with it. I think you will find these instructions much more clear. We've had two people write to us saying their displays have been "blown". Al has looked into this and corresponded to the manufacturer. While they are saying that their spec documents are correct and that the display can tolerate up to 4V, we're convinced it's a little more sensitive than that to overvoltage.and voltage spikes. For that reason, Al designed a small perf board circuit that clamps the voltage so the display will not be subject to any overvoltage problems. While less than 1 percent of the buyers have had any problems, if you think your power supply might be subject to such issues, Al's circuit will help. Again, hopefully the new harness instructions are "less sucky"! Jack, W8TEE WiringHarnessInstructions001.pdf
WiringHarnessInstructions001.pdf
RA8875 Display protection001.pdf
RA8875 Display protection001.pdf
|
Re: V5 software update?
The change will be a separate file and I will be making an announcement within the hour... Jack, W8TEE
On Monday, April 1, 2019, 9:59:21 AM EDT, eyelessmisfit <eyelessmisfit@...> wrote:
Hey Jack, Looked at your site, but didn't yet find your new v5 updates. Now that my v5 board is here, ( and the new teensey), is it going to be available soon? Anything I can do to help? 73's Ron W0QVJ |
Re: display
I assume that you have a graphics object named tft. Go into the setup() function and add this code at the bottom: for (int i = 0; i < 4; i++) { ?? tft.setRotation( (uint8_t) i); ?? tft.setCursor(10, 10); ?? tft.print("New rotation value of "); ?? tft.print(i); ?? delay(5000);?????? // You have 5 seconds to view the message } and see if any of the rotation values works for what you need. Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 31, 2019, 11:26:30 PM EDT, k7da <k7da@...> wrote:
i mounted the display upside down and turning it over makes it not fit the hole. so i need to turn the picture upside down. is that possible in sofeward or alectrically? dave k7da
On 3/31/2019 7:57 PM, jjpurdum via
Groups.Io wrote:
What do you mean "turned over"? There's a Landscape and
Portrait mode
Jack, W8TEE
On Sunday, March 31, 2019, 10:29:40 PM EDT, k7da
<k7da@...> wrote:
can the display be turned over in software?
dave k7da
|
Re: display
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýi mounted the display upside down and turning it over makes it not fit the hole. so i need to turn the picture upside down. is that possible in sofeward or alectrically? dave k7da
On 3/31/2019 7:57 PM, jjpurdum via
Groups.Io wrote:
|
Re: 7 inch Screen Calibration
A guy here in town has our 7" display and he's back from CA. We'll see what we can find out. Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 30, 2019, 4:51:22 PM EDT, Vince Loschiavo <vince320@...> wrote:
so at some point i got it calibrated, and squirted it.? Still not calibrated. ugg no real success. Vince n2aie |
Re: Build notes from a geezer
Another alternative is a bezel to fit over the opening. Al and I have gone with printing a cover on photo paper and carefully cutting the opening with an Xacto knife: We think it came out pretty well. Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 30, 2019, 9:23:02 PM EDT, k7da <k7da@...> wrote:
the hole for the display would be best done by someone with a mill.? talk around to friends and try to find someone with a mill that does hobby work and have them do it for a few bucks.? much better job then anything that you? (or I) can do by hand. just a thought that worked for me. dave k7da
On 3/30/2019 4:57 PM, eyelessmisfit
wrote:
Finished the 1st one and It's ok, but I'm pretty sure it can be
done a lot better. Some mistakes: Ordered my box before I sized the display, so limited myself to a 5" display Built my power supply before I found out the total current draw, so it needed to be done twice. Tried to use my sabre saw to cut out the display hole.(!) Got the hole big enough, and managed to mount all 4 display corners on standoffs, but I'm going to need to find a way to patch the gubered saw job. Bought too many parts. (Way too many mistakes from a 50 year veteran!) Some things for improvement: Starting from scratch I bought a box big enough for the 7" display, (again steel, blue, from china), will use my dremel or nibbler to make the display hole! Bought the v5 ubitx and noticed the offensive relays and inductors remain on my new v5 board. Plan to replace A buying mistake that turned out well was the replacement signal relays from eBay. The ones i bought do the job for 1/3 current draw.. My new power supply has a transformer capable of 100 va, and it's got multi-taps, so my next Jackal won't have any 3.3 v regulators that get too hot, or 12v neither. For the future: The 3904's are barely functional above 30 mhz (and the 1st if's 45 mhz). There are bunches of better parts for most of them. My new power supply has a tap for 50v so the final is probably going to need bigger heat sinks and fet's and I don't like push-pull- parallel amplifier stages, when push -pull will do. My thoughts from the 1st one while getting ready to do a better one. A lot of fun so far! Ron W0QVJ ?? |
Re: Build notes from a geezer
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýthe hole for the display would be best done by someone with a mill.? talk around to friends and try to find someone with a mill that does hobby work and have them do it for a few bucks.? much better job then anything that you? (or I) can do by hand. just a thought that worked for me. dave k7da
On 3/30/2019 4:57 PM, eyelessmisfit
wrote:
Finished the 1st one and It's ok, but I'm pretty sure it can be done a lot better. |
Build notes from a geezer
eyelessmisfit
Finished the 1st one and It's ok, but I'm pretty sure it can be done a lot better.
Some mistakes: Ordered my box before I sized the display, so limited myself to a 5" display Built my power supply before I found out the total current draw, so it needed to be done twice. Tried to use my sabre saw to cut out the display hole.(!) Got the hole big enough, and managed to mount all 4 display corners on standoffs, but I'm going to need to find a way to patch the gubered saw job. Bought too many parts. (Way too many mistakes from a 50 year veteran!) Some things for improvement: Starting from scratch I bought a box big enough for the 7" display, (again steel, blue, from china), will use my dremel or nibbler to make the display hole! Bought the v5 ubitx and noticed the offensive relays and inductors remain on my new v5 board. Plan to replace A buying mistake that turned out well was the replacement signal relays from eBay. The ones i bought do the job for 1/3 current draw.. My new power supply has a transformer capable of 100 va, and it's got multi-taps, so my next Jackal won't have any 3.3 v regulators that get too hot, or 12v neither. For the future: The 3904's are barely functional above 30 mhz (and the 1st if's 45 mhz). There are bunches of better parts for most of them. My new power supply has a tap for 50v so the final is probably going to need bigger heat sinks and fet's and I don't like push-pull- parallel amplifier stages, when push -pull will do. My thoughts from the 1st one while getting ready to do a better one. A lot of fun so far! Ron W0QVJ ?? |