Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
I think that comes with it. You should be fine with whatever is shipped with the kit.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 3:01:39 PM EDT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Jack,
Thanks! Bought one. There is an optional anvil for a idc dip type socket. Any reason to add that to the shopping list?
Mark
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
Jack,
Thanks! Bought one. There is an optional anvil for a idc dip type socket. Any reason to add that to the shopping list?
Mark
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Yep, it's time for us to just take it down.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 1:41:02 PM EDT, eyelessmisfit <eyelessmisfit@...> wrote:
Jack,
Your site seems to be redirecting again, puts up the "click allow", then before the allow dialog comes up, I get shoved off to hajoopteq.com.
Someone doesn't like us?
;)
Ron W0QVJ
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Jack,
Your site seems to be redirecting again, puts up the "click allow", then before the allow dialog comes up, I get shoved off to hajoopteq.com.
Someone doesn't like us?
;)
Ron W0QVJ
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
Try eBay 273824408603.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 11:54:06 AM EDT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Jack,
Can you convince Al to share a pointer to that Crimping tool . :-) ? I think I am using a tool like yours and not getting the knack of it.
73
Mark
AJ6CU
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
Jack,
Can you convince Al to share a pointer to that Crimping tool . :-) ? I think I am using a tool like yours and not getting the knack of it.
73
Mark
AJ6CU
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
From my experience a crimping tool helps significantly toward making a good crimp. That said, the crimp sometimes needs a tweak after removing it from the crimper. The end portion of the pin where the wire insulation is ¡°clamped¡± will sometimes need another squeeze from the crimper or pliers so it slides smoothly and fully into the plastic connector. ?Also another tip is practice a few times to get the correct ¡°bare wire¡± length correct. You do not want it too long or it will interfere with the action of the pin end which does the connection mating. A few practice trials will help understand what is entailed in making a good crimp. Trying to do it fast won¡¯t help! ;-) There are some YouTube videos on making the crimp. Check out¡? BTW¡ I have a extra SN-28B that is new in it¡¯s packaging if someone wants it for $20 shipped.?
Pete WK8S? On May 8, 2019, at 7:10 AM, jjpurdum via Groups.Io < jjpurdum@...> wrote:
JackAl works with either board, but there are some improvements in the V5 board. Given a choice, I'd go with V5.
As to the crimp connectors, Al has a crimping tool which, of course, works flawlessly. I don't. I actually use a pair of pliers with the "hinge" set to its widest position and slooowly crimp the connector in place, alternating from one side to the next until it's firmly seated. Never had a problem. I wasn't a big fan at first, but now I am as they do make a firm connection, yet can be disconnected if need be.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 3:31:39 AM EDT, Mark Hatch < mark2382@...> wrote:
Jack,
My comment was probably more related to those d**n crimp connectors than anything else. Spent a couple hours in February, and couldn't get the hang of it. Will take a deep breath and take another shot at it in June. Suspect that I need to practice for several hours to get it....
In regards to the original topic, do you have any preference between v5 and v4 boards? If v4, should I fix the spurs/harmonics and ecen the power output before moving on to JackAl?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
Pete Meier
pmeier at
Amateur Radio Callsign: WK8S
|| I never lose. If I don't win, I learn. -?unknown author ||
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Re: Private: Re: [BITX20] Morse Tutor BOM Error number
All:
I screwed up the eBay number for the buck converter, which is fixed in the attached doc file. Note that there are cheaper converters on eBay, but I would discouraged you from selecting one that uses a Phillips head adjusting screw--they just pop off too easily. Stick with those that have a brass screw adjustment for a cermet pot.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 6:49:39 AM PDT, Doug W <dougwilner@...> wrote:
Jack, I noticed you have the same eBay item numbers for the buck converter and the audio amp.? The descriptions made it easy enough to find what you intended but it might confuse some.? Thanks again for sharing your hard work. Doug AC9RZ --
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
JackAl works with either board, but there are some improvements in the V5 board. Given a choice, I'd go with V5.
As to the crimp connectors, Al has a crimping tool which, of course, works flawlessly. I don't. I actually use a pair of pliers with the "hinge" set to its widest position and slooowly crimp the connector in place, alternating from one side to the next until it's firmly seated. Never had a problem. I wasn't a big fan at first, but now I am as they do make a firm connection, yet can be disconnected if need be.
Jack, W8TEE
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 3:31:39 AM EDT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Jack,
My comment was probably more related to those d**n crimp connectors than anything else. Spent a couple hours in February, and couldn't get the hang of it. Will take a deep breath and take another shot at it in June. Suspect that I need to practice for several hours to get it....
In regards to the original topic, do you have any preference between v5 and v4 boards? If v4, should I fix the spurs/harmonics and ecen the power output before moving on to JackAl?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
Jack,
My comment was probably more related to those d**n crimp connectors than anything else. Spent a couple hours in February, and couldn't get the hang of it. Will take a deep breath and take another shot at it in June. Suspect that I need to practice for several hours to get it....
In regards to the original topic, do you have any preference between v5 and v4 boards? If v4, should I fix the spurs/harmonics and ecen the power output before moving on to JackAl?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
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Re: Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
The first harness does have new documentation which should make it pretty easy to build. I've been really busy the last two weeks and have not had time to update the other harness. I will get to that as soon as I can.
Jack, W8TEE
On Tuesday, May 7, 2019, 7:10:52 PM EDT, Mark Hatch <mark2382@...> wrote:
Just wondering whether there is any advantage starting with a v4 or v5?? I have a V4 working. Have not done any of the major upgrades to the v4 (harmonics/spurs, AGC, output balance, etc). Is that a better starting point than a V5 board? Plan to keep one of each. :-) .? Given that the JackAl board has a reasonable audio amplifier, that would certainly eliminate the v4 issue here.
I assume if I were to start with the V4, I should still implement the standard harmonics/spur fix? Max output/balance bands?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
BTW: Bet most of the errors/problems in building are related to those custom wiring harnesses. I would certainly be willing to pay for a prefabricated and tested harness! Bet others would too.
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Start with V4 or V5 ubitx
Just wondering whether there is any advantage starting with a v4 or v5?? I have a V4 working. Have not done any of the major upgrades to the v4 (harmonics/spurs, AGC, output balance, etc). Is that a better starting point than a V5 board? Plan to keep one of each. :-) .? Given that the JackAl board has a reasonable audio amplifier, that would certainly eliminate the v4 issue here.
I assume if I were to start with the V4, I should still implement the standard harmonics/spur fix? Max output/balance bands?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
BTW: Bet most of the errors/problems in building are related to those custom wiring harnesses. I would certainly be willing to pay for a prefabricated and tested harness! Bet others would too.
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All:
A number of you wanted a BOM for the Morse Code Tutor so that you can order parts now before the schematic and source code are available. This gives you an idea of the parts in the project:
The attached BOM prices this out at around $19 not including a case. You can lower the price by buying in small quantities and sharing in a build.
Jack, W8TEE
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How to install new libraries in the IDE
All:
This document shows the way I install new libraries. It does not work the way the Library Manager works within the IDE. I do it this way so each set of libraries is "tied" to the current release of the IDE. I have IDE's on my development drive that go back to 1.05. Therefore, if a new IDE breaks some existing code, I can go back to an earlier release and start finding out what changed to break it. When? new release does come out, like 1.89 just did, I block-copy the libraries subdirectory and I'm good to go.
Also, any time I download a new production release (i.e., not a Beta), I make a small donation (e.g., $10-$25) to the Arduino development team. I hope you'll do something similar.
Jack, W8TEE
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Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected]
group.
File: InstallingTheArduinoIDE.doc
Uploaded By:
jjpurdum
Description:
How to properly install the Arduino IDE in preparation for loading the JackAl source code.
You can access this file at the URL:
/g/JackAl/files/InstallingTheArduinoIDE.doc
Cheers,
The Groups.io Team
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Re: Display Protection Board
Robert,
Did not look at parts list yet. But is this link at bang good or a part that is needed?
73
Mark
AJ6CU
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Re: Display Protection Board
Hi Scott
Yes since I got the gerbers from Al, I¡¯m making 3 boards. We will figure out how to get a zener in the board. I might have to redo the board but that would be later. We have the tools to modify these.. o won¡¯t get the boards until just after the 10th
Vince
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On Apr 30, 2019, at 7:30 PM, Scotty Hicks <Scotty@...> wrote:
Vince I¡¯m interested in getting 2 boards also.
Your right in the 3.3 volts isn¡¯t protected, what would be best to protect it, a zener?
Scotty (W5CCU)
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jack
in the display datasheet page 12 para 4.3 there is a? jumper config shown in the note? for the keyboard and those on my display are not set the same.
should they be set per this note ?
dave k7da
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Robert, what software are you using to design the panel?
Bob -wb6kwt
On 5/1/2019 12:54 PM, Robert Ogburn
wrote:
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Yes, Brian I will post the stl files here and at GitHub when the
dimensional issues are resolved (TFT mounting pins need to be
moved, large hole for encoder will be deleted (with and without
will be at GitHub) and a few other mistakes need to be fixed
first.?? ??Thanks for your interest.
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Yes, Brian I will post the stl files here and at GitHub when the dimensional issues are resolved (TFT mounting pins need to be moved, large hole for encoder will be deleted (with and without will be at GitHub) and a few other mistakes need to be fixed first.? ?Thanks for your interest.
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jjpurdum
Robert Ogburn