Day 21 Aug 21, 1982<br>Thankfully another
bearless night, I think. We refilled our packs with food
and said our goodbyes. Gary and Liz left at 9:30 and
Owen and I packed up. A northbound group walking ahead
of pack stock visited for a while and we left at
10:05,or so. The day had started sunny but turned to rain
just above the Center Basin turnoff and we sought
shelter under a tree until it quit. A little ways above
timberline the trail flattens out a little on a bench and
then crosses the creek. This is where we stopped for
lunch, and did again every time we came this way. Here
we met a couple who had been out 63 days, going from
Lassen to Whitney. At the last lake the trail makes a
U-turn and goes along the side of a protruding ridge
that we could see all day. At the lake were two women
headed up to the pass on a day hike but turned back by
the weather. After going up the side of this ridge
the trail turns back along the narrow top. This was
an exciting place to be and the views were great. I
almost felt like I was in the Himalayas here. Whenever
we go back here I always pause at this place. At the
south end of this knob you enter the upper basin just
before the pass. At least it does when there is less
snow. Not being familiar with the trail yet all we saw
was a hugh snowbank running west up and along the
edge. Because of the footprints in it we saw that most
everyone was climbing up then boulder hopping across to
the pass, so that is what we did. About halfway up
the snow we looked down and saw the trail but it was
15 feet down to it, so we stuck with plan A. We were
pleased to find only this much snow because Gary had
called the ranger before we left and theytold him that
Forester Pass was barely passable at that time. We soon
climbed to the top of the snowbank and hopped the
boulders to the pass fairly easily. The rain had stopped
after lunch but the sky remained overcast and for most
of the time the clouds swirled around the peaks and
obscuring the<br>pass. However, the sky cleared as we
approached the pass and when we arrived we had a
magnificient blue sky and fluffy clouds. What a glorious
moment. We had a grand view down the Kern River Canyon
and back to the north it went on forever. You can
look back and see the Palisades. The better view to
the north is where you first enter that upper basin
because from the pass the ridge on the west hides part of
the view. When Gary finally made it here his words
were "AAAAh MY Kern". We spent 50 minutes on top and
met two guys there who planned on spending the night
on the pass. It would be a great place to be but I
would not normally do such a thing. This pass is really
impressive and is one of my top 3. On the south side the
trail drops down on a thin ledge scratched out of a
vertical cliff, I was impressed and so was Gary years
later. On the way down I noticed that what we thought
was Mt. Whitney was instead Mt. Tyndall. We soon
arrived at the bottom and continued down the trail
looking for a campsite. We found it a little ways below
the lower of the two big lakes east of the trail on
Tyndall Ck. at 7 PM. Feeling a little sad this evening.
We were walking late with the long shadows of days
end and Gary had not been able to rejoin us. That
feeling that the trip is over and we are just marking
time till we get out has also returned. Tomorrow we
will take a day off and fish, the second such day of
the trip. Perhaps a nights sleep will brightendfs our
spirits. 8.5 miles today over one of the most spectacular
passes I have ever been.
|
Day 20 Aug 20,1982<br>I woke up about 3:30 this
morning and the skies were clear. I could see the flash
of lightning from over the mountains to the north.
Gary later told me a friend of his was on Hwy 395
during the storm and it was spectacular on the ease
side. The sun was in camp when we arose at 8 AM
(surprise) and it looks like summer is back, although I'll
find out later I was wrong. Two days ago while coming
down from Pinchot Pass I had the feeling the trip was
over. That feeling often hits me towards the end of a
trip for no particular reason and the rest of the time
is only coming out. However, that feeling is
replaced by the anticipation of the new section with Gary.
Today is the day he rejoins the journey. It has been
exactlly two weeks since we reached Red's Mdw. and he had
to leave. We are soon packed up and on the way to
Glen Pass. An hour brought us to the small basin at
the foot of the pass after which the trail the trail
became steep and rocky. However, we were energized, and
almost out of food, so in 35 minutes with one sit-down
and 3 or 4 stand-up rests we were on top. There were
only a couple of snow patches on the way. This soon
became one of my favorite passes. It truly fits the
defination of an arete (a narrow mountain ridge). The trail
runs down the middle of a narrow ridge for 50 or 60
yards. We only spent 25 minutes on top because we were
anxious to get to the meeting point ahead of Gary. We
were hopeing he would be able to get the permit. He
later told us that everyone was going to Kersarge Pass
and he planned on pleading hardship, starving hikers
hungrily awaiting resupply. He got the permit but said he
planned on going anyway. Of course, a litle ways up the
trail there was the ranger checking permits. The south
side of the pass descends quickly but is less rocky
than the north side. We passed an "OLD" woman headed
north and she asked us if we had seen the shortcut to
Sixty Lks. Basin. I don't complain about my pack
anymore. We moved along past Charlotte Lk., noting it for
a future trip. I havn't made it yet but still have
hopes. We crossed the large bench and dropped down to
the trail coming from BullFrog Lk. reaching it at
1:00. Figuring we were ahead of Gary, we sat down to
wait and made some lime Jell-O, which we later drank.
The scoutmaster we had met at Woods Ck. came by and
had us pose for a picture. We waited and waited and
thinking we may have been later than Gary,and at 3:30
headed on down to Vidette after leaving a note for Gary.
We walked all the way to the last campsite before
starting uphill and Gary wasn't in any of them. Owen and I
decided we wern't going to stop now. We still had a
couple of Mug-O-Lunch, dried fruit, popcorn and flour.
We decided if he didn't arrive today we would
layover on Saturday and fish. If he wasn't here by then
we would head for Whitney as fast as possible, fish
again at Crabtree, beg for food and head out. We
started cooking our last full meal of stew and a little
over an hour after we got here Gary arrived with his
wife Liz. He said that we had left the trail junction
just before he got there. He also reminded me the plan
was to camp in the first campsite at Vidette, not the
last. His knee is still bothering him and he will not
be finishing with us but will meet us next
Wednesday. I told him about the great fishing we had heard
about at Shadow Lk. but he had not been able to go
there before meeting us. We counter balanced the 4
packs just as we had done our food at Tuolumne Mdws.
They were high up on a small limb and the ground
sloped away. We had heard of someone wrestling the bear
for his food at Vidette on the way here. Good thing
the bear didn't show up or that our packs were well
placed because we slept by the stream and the sound of
the water was so loud we could not have heard
anything. Even though Gary will not finish out it is good
to talk with him again. 7 miles today.
|
Hi, Guy!<br>Appreciate your memories. Next, I
have to check out your web site.<br>Just got home.
Left Onion Valley this morning. My friends from NY are
now on their way over to the Big Trees.<br>Larry and
Oreo send you their love! We head out again over Piute
Pass on the 23ed.<br>As long as we don't get anymore
snow this summer, I'll be HAPPY!<br>It was great to
meet you last week. Hope the pictures you got of the
llamas turn out.<br>Mel
|
Day 19 Aug 19,1982<br>Well the good news was no
bears. We made our usual start anticipating the
spectacular views that awaited us. We would finally be seeing
Rae Lks., an area I had only seen in pictures before.
My wife and I had started into the area in '67 but
we turned back just short of the top of Baxter Pass.
We crossed Woods Ck. on a log bridge with a handrail
of limbs. When we went back in '93 I wondered what
happened to it in the high waters of '86. I was pleased to
see the new suspension bridge, what a difference.
Shortly after we left it started sprinkling. We climbed
on up in an on and off drizzle taking shelter under
the trees a couple of times during the heavier
showers. We passed Dollar Lk. and stopped at Arrowhead Lk.
We saw several 8 inch trout in the creek above the
lake. We seemed to be alone so we took a bath, washed
our clothes and had lunch. We had rung as much water
as we could from our laundry then it rained and
hailed. The sky is solid cloud and the thunder and
lightning played around but not quite as near as this
morning. Spent 2 1/2 hours here rewrung our clothes and
went on. We soon came upon rangers clearing downed
logs from the trail. They rolled the first section out
of a 4 footer just as we walked up so we were the
first thru it. They were on horses and soon passed us.
In a little while they were coming back with a
trophy. They had found a Bighorn Sheep skull with almost
a full curl and had it tied on the pack mule. We
then came onto Rae Lks. and looked at Fin Dome with
our own eyes. We met the ranger and asked about the
bear stories we had heard. He said he had also heard
the rumors but had no firsthand knowledge of any
problems, however, he said to hang our packs. We reached
the istmus and found our campsite just east of the
creek. There are a lot of people here but we are able to
camp somewhat alone. We took advantage of the early
stop (4PM)to fish. I kept 5 about 7 inches long for
dinner. While fishing I had someone tell me that they
wern't biting so I made sure I made a big splash when I
threw them back. Started cooking dinner and it started
to rain again. While we huddled under the tree the
stew scorched in the bottom of the pot. While we were
staying dry we observed a double rainbow to the east
which helped ease the agony of the burnt food. We hung
the packs as recommended. It clouded up again so we
put up the rain fly from Gary's tent for the first
time since Red Cones. We tied out the four corners
with the edge about two feet off the ground and
attached a cord from an overhead limb to a stone gathered
in the middle to hold it up. We watched the
lightning reflect off the clouds over Painted Lady to the
south until it started raining again then snuggled in
our bags. We drifted off to sleep with the
pitter-patter of rain on our covering. This was one of the most
pleasant days we have had. Strolling along slowly, having
our bath (long overdue), fish for dinner, the double
rainbow, and drifting off to the soothing sound of light
rain. Also only 6.8 miles with no pass made it an easy
day.
|
Day 18 Aug 18, 1982<br>We slept in the wind
tunnel last night. We were right nexx to the trail with
the shore of Lk. Marjorie close ahead. I slept with
my coat on instead of using it as a pillow. For part
of the night a stiff wind blew off the lake and
rattlesmy plastic ground cloth. Fortunately it was not a
cold wind but there was a touch of frost on Owen's
sleeping bag this morning. I was up early and looked
around a little, which is what I should have done last
night. I found a spot in the rocks completely surrounded
bysmall trees. I was sure it was a 3 foot depression in
the flat rock somewhat like a bathtub, however, when
I looked for it the next time it wasn't like that
or I couldn't find it. If you go west over the top
of the rock there are some small trees that provide
a cozy and snug place to sleep. I especially enjoy
the little hidey holes to sleep in. Just as we were
about to leave along came a guy who had started from
Upper Basin this morning. He is headed the same
direction but expects to be at Whitney Portal on Sunday. We
won't be there until next Wednesday which means we have
8 days left. We slowly hurried and were off to
Pinchot Pass at 8:55 which we reached in just over an
hour. Once again we threw down our packs, found a rock
to sit on and gasped for air, but we did it with
finesse. Once again we were the first ones up, well maybe
second. We spotted Fin Dome and Mt. Clarence King then
marveled at the view before us. Soon we were joined by
others, including hippy dippy ranger man. It took me
about 10 minutes to figure out he was the ranger. We
descended a steep trail with many shortcuts to the basin
below. Soon we passed Twin Lks. and the trail to Woods
Lk. A CCC group is relocating trail from a meadow.
They fill in the old trail with 5 gallon buckets of
dirt, over and over. Glad we are walking because trail
work looks like work, It started to sprinkle and we
stopped for lunch then it rained . We waited until the
rain stopped before going on. I wore my coat and soon
discovered I shouldn't have. I didn't want to stop to take
it off so I sweated my way to Woods Ck. where we
made camp on the north side of the crossing. There was
a scout troop there so we visited for a while then
went back to what we are good at, laying down. The
clouds have cleared up so we won't need to put up the
tent fly tarp. Because of the bear stories we decided
to hang the packs. We put them about 8feet off the
ground directly above our feet. Figured we would know if
the bear was after them at least. 9.1 gorgeous miles
today. I am starting to feel that I am ready to be home.
Long trailers must really have toughj mental moments.
i don't know how they do it but I would try if the
chance arose.
|
Day 17 Aug 17, 1982<br>We were in bed early last
night, probably because we didn't have a fire to occupy
and warm us. The morning is clear with only a few
hazy clouds in the east as we start for Mather Pass.
All we have heard is that Mather Pass is the hardest
one and has lots of snow. A couple passed us at
Grouse Mdw. Monday morning and raved about the life
threatning descent. Well except for a few patches of snow
and a stretch of 50-75 yards near the top the climb
was all on the trail. We are the first ones to arrive
at the pass today and we revel in the moment. Before
us is the grand view of Upper Basin, the S. Fork
Kings and on the far horizon Pinchot Pass. After a
while others started showing up. One is a guy out for
40 days from Emigrant Wilderness to Yosemite and now
to Mt. Whitney. Two girls from Fresno, with whom we
discuss backpack cookery. The tell me of the little
cheese filled raveoli and tortilini, which I later
incorporated into my menu. Not wanting to lose the high, pun
intended, we stay for an hour and 50 minutes before
starting down. We came steadily and easily down the the
crossing of the S. Fork Kings. At the crossing is an
earlier aquaintence, we remember because his entire menu
was rice and oatmeal, stripping down to wade across.
Owen and I went a little upstream and found a log to
cross on. The trail turned uphill be we moved on along,
but not quite as easily. Soon tho we reached the top
of the bench and strolled on up to L. Marjorie. The
rock here is very volcanic and of many colors but
mostly dark red and gold. The clouds that have been
building all day seem to be clearing but still linger in
the north. From here we have an excellent view of
Upper Basin and Mather Pass. My knee has been much
improved since Piute Ck. but is still sensitive to touch
in certain spots. I seem to have pulled a muscle
just above my left knee on the inside. We have heard
there are big fish here so Owen is finding out. The
stories are true but we threw them all back. The US was
deeply involved in Lebanon and all evening we watched
plane after plane just over the crest to the east,
heading to China Lake perhaps, and wondered if anything
was going on in the other world. A glorious 10.5
miles today.
|
Day 16 Aug 16,1982<br>Another good nights sleep,
not that I don't usually sleep well. Up at 7AM
gathering it all up. It sure doesn't take long to spread
out. Really enjoyed the rest day tho. Breakfast over
and we are on the trail at 9:55. We see plenty of
nice fishing spots as we follow up Palisade Ck. I
won't return to the stretch of trail from here to
Vidette for 11 years. I didn't fish it then either, guess
I need to make a trip for this area alone. Owen
amused himself by catching grasshoppers. We saw two guys
just coming down from Palisade Basin. While I was
ahead Owen had a bald eagle come up from the creek and
land on a limb right above him. Unfortunately, it flew
before he could get to his camera. We stopped for lunch
at the creek from Glacier Lk. and now I wish I had
taken the gorp we were offered at Mono Ck. In a little
while we reach the switchbacks of the Golden Staircase.
As a testimony to our condition I didn't even stop
for a sit down rest until I reached the top where I
waited for Owen to catch up. The climb seemed easy but
we only have 5 days food abd 15 days experience. In
1993 it was not nearly as easy with almost 2 weeks of
food and 2 days on the trail. At the first Palisade
Lk. we ran into another guy, which made 5 people we
saw all day. He is on a 40 day trip from Cottonwood
Lks. to Tuolumne Mdw. I pushed on ahead and found a
small creek at Upper Palisade Lk. where we made camp.
This creek is just a little west of the larger creek
coming out of the basin to the north and was dry when I
returned in September '93. We had only taken our packs off
for lunch since we left Grouse Mdw. so it felt good
to drop them here. Owen wanted to go fishing in the
lake but I told him dinner would be ready by the time
he got down there soneither of us fished here, an
oversight I corrected in '93. There were some clouds
building up but they have cleared off now. There are more
trees here than I expected. A bowlful of tobacco then
we curled up in a cozy spot amongst the trees to
spent another night. 9 miles today, easy miles too.
|
Ahhhh! That's my kinda day Howard. But I wonder about hanging the food over your heads. Have you tried that often? Yes, it could be quite exciting!
|
Day 15 Aug 15, 1982<br>We halfway hung our packs
last night because we have been bombarded with bear
tales. We hung them the old way with a rope tied off but
directly over us. It would have been exciting if a bear
had shown up with us underneath. We slept well and
moved to the nicer campsite near us to fix breakfast
after the guy there left this morning. We left to fish
at 11 AM and followed the firefighters we met
yesterday down to the bridge over Palisade Ck. We fished
about 1 1/2 to 2 miles down river. Owen caught the
first fish. There were many nice fishing spots and at
one big pool I cast clear across the pool and pulled
in the biggest trout of the day (9 1/2"). We
returned to Grouse Mdw. with Owens fish and my 7. We saw
two fawns on the way back. We fished in the meadow
for a while and ended up with 18 fish (Owen 5 and me
13). The meadow provded the smaller fish 6-7". We
relished the trout dinner that night while we watched the
beams of light from the canyons above and across the
meadow again. Evening comes early here but comes well
dressed. Last night all the campsites were taken, tonight
we seem to be alone here. A golden Sunday evening.
Before we left I asked Gary if he was ready for the trek
and he said he hoped it wasn't a trek. The dictionary
defines trek as an arduous journey. While it has been
tiring it is not arduous, yet. Still it is a joy not to
pack up everything in the morning and hit the trail.
This day occupies a large place in my memory. It was a
gew years before we camped at Grouse Mdw. again but
the grin on Owen's face tells me it was a memorable
spot for him too. Zero packing miles today.
|
Day 14 Aug 14, 1982<br>The 10 in the Muir Hut
woke up.. oh us too. They went on down to Helen Lk.
and we fixed breakfast and started out. There was
solid snow down to the lake where we passed the group
fixing their breakfast in the snow at the shore of Helen
Lk. The snow was patchy and the trail rocky down to
the next lake. We arrived at Big Pete Mdw. and the
lake in it from all the snowmelt. Right after the
meadow the river drops in a continuous cascade, There is
a grand view down the canyon with its glacial U
shape and smoothly polished granite. We stopped for
lunch just above Little Pete Mdw. We soon met the
ranger and she caught up with us a little later and said
since we didn't ask and since Owen was doing so good
she would tell us where the good fishing was. It is
below Palisade Ck.--exactly where we had planned on
going. She said her husband came in once a month and
fished for their dinner. We dropped off the high spot
and soon arrived at the Dusy Basin trail junction.
There was a high school group there. We sat down to
visit and they talked to us just like they already knew
us. One asked if a guy looked familier and I said no
but when he got up I recognized him as the leader of
the group we camped with at Ireland Ck. in Tuolumne
Mdws. Apparently he had told them about us, what a
delightful meeting. He had another group and they were doing
South Lk. to North Lk. They had wanted to do it the
other way around but could not get a permit. If we had
been just a few minutes earlier we would have missed
them. He said it poured rain on them at Shadow Lk. the
night we got sprinkles at Red Cones. He also said they
easily caught 8-13 inch trout there . Gary would like to
know that and he may find out, he said he and his wife
may go there and fish for a few days before he
rejoins us at Vidette. We picked up with a group of San
Diego firmen and sped on down to Grouse Mdw. We did not
find any campsites and went on past the meadow
looking. Not finding any we came back to just above the
lower end. There were quite a few people there and all
the good campsites were taken so we took a mediocre
one we had seen earlier. Went fishing and caught two
7 inchers for dinner. Looked for my Uncle Bens
white and wild rice in vain. This is a fine canyon with
vertical granite walls especially on the west side, very
much like Yosemite. The guy we talked to last year in
Dusy Basin had not exaggerated a bit. Beams of light
radiated out of the side canyons above the meadow and made
a perfect end to the day. Near sundown the wind
picked up but stopped by dark. 10.5 downhill miles
today.
|
Day 12 Aug 13, 1982<br>Friday the 13th. We slept
in this morning but I woke up early enough to see
our company hobble off for South Lk. He was walking
with a stiff knee just like Chester of the old
Gunsmoke. I often wonder if he made it all the way that
day. Moved slowly because of a planned easy day. We
started at 10:25 and stopped to check out the campsite my
wife and I had used at Colby Mdw in '68. A bunch of ou
would use that site again in '86 but it was being
destroyed in '91. Spotted a small Garter Snake in a pond
shortly before Evolution Lk. The trail has been rerouted
since '68 to stay out of the meadow leading up to
Evolution Lk. We soon came to Evolution Lk. and stopped for
lunch and a while. Checked out the campsite my wife and
I had used, 14 years changes things a bit. Found
another Garter Snake. When my wife and I were here last I
noticed a commotion in a small pond followed by a Garter
Snake sliding out with a polliwog in its mouth. Went to
the outlet of the lake for that fine view back down
the valley. We continued strolling on up to Muir
Pass. The stream is running high and crossing at the
usual place before Sapphire Lk. did not look feasible.
We pushed upstream until we found a rock we could
jump from to clear the creek. I went first and only
got damp but Owen landed in the water and got his
feet wet. We had heard wild stories of massive amounts
of snow near the pass but there was not too much. We
intended to stay at the Muir Hut if possible. When we
reached Wanda Lk. we looked around a bit and after
talking with someone coming down decided we could stay at
the hut. We started on up but soon the trail
disappeared in the snow. We then struck up the middle of the
approach missing as much snow as possible. About halfway
we caught up to a group of high school students from
San Diego and passed them, inviting them to a night
on the pass. They were doing North Lk. to South Lk.
and one of them was blind. He had a belt to which was
attached a rope. One of the adults held the end of the
rope and gave him verbal instructions on where to
move. I soon arrived at the pass followed by Owenin a
few minutes. The high school group was impressed,
especially because we both passed them and did not stop
until we reached the top. The group joined us in the
Muir Hut and I regaled them with the roar of my Svea.
They had butane stoves. After dinner they took baking
bags, put some dirt and rocks in them followed by a
candle. With two or three of these flickering lanterns we
soon settled into a ghost story marathon. All the
classics were told; hook on the car door, fingernails on
the roof and so on. Ten year old Owen lapped it up.
We went to bed, I think with 13 people inside, on
the benches on the floor on the propped up table. I
slept on the rock bench on the northd side and was
quite comfortable. I have used the same bed twice
since. I got up to visit nature in the night and thought
how calm it was. However, the wind soon gusted and I
retreated to my bag again. Of those sleeping outside, one
said they had to remove the tent fly so that they
could sleep in silence. This was a golden day. I had
thought about staying for a couple of days and greeting
bypassers from the doorstep of MY home. Apparently someone
did exactly that a few days earlier. We also heard
that it was quite crowded on the night of Aug 6. While
we were getting sprinkles at Red Cones it was
pouring here. 10.3 pleasent miles today. Back in familiar
territory.
|
A mile of the JMT between Clark's Point and Vernal/Nevada bridge is closed due to the latest rock slide at Panoramic Cliff. If you are planning to start your JMT hike there check onconditions first.
|
Day 12 Aug 12, 1982<br>Last night was warm in
comparision the the night before. We made our usual start
time. We stopped at the bridge where the trail crossed
to the south side for a break. We cautiously drank
the water from the river. We also met some guys doing
the trail and from Whitney and they were a week into
it. Figured we were about halfway. Recrossed theriver
and ascended the hill into Evolution Valley. At the
trail crossing was a large sign saying the safest
crossing was a half mile east in Evolution Mdw. We went
that direction and found a smooth pebbley sandy knee
deep crossing. After reaching the other side we
decided to take a bath. So back into the icy water for a
dip, rub the dirt loose, and dip again. I then told
Owen to stay put and I would get his picture, he said
"hurrrry". I thought I would also wash my clothes so while
we waited for the clothes to dry I had a smoke and
wrote my diary while Owen played in the water. Just
below this crossing is a deep (8-10 feet) pool about 50
feet long bounded by logs on each end all the way
across the creek. It would be a dandy swimming hole if
the water was warmer. After my clothes had dried down
to damp we headed on up. We camped in a large level
site just past the ranger station at McClure Mdw. that
afforded a fine view of the meadow. Even though there were
quite a few people in the area we had this campsite to
ourselves. We went fishing and met some people. One was 5
days out of Whitney another was a journalism student
from Santa Barbara who interviewed us. We caught
qquite a few small fish but kept only two for dinner.
While fixing dinner a marathon hiker joined our
campsite. He had come from North Lk. over Piute Pass and up
to Evolution today. He said he had done JMT in 13
days. I prefer to move much slower. We are back in
familiar territory for the second day since leaving
Devil's Postpile. In '68 my wife and I had made a trip
from Florence Lk. up to Muir Pass and returned via
Davis Lks. and Hell-For-Sure Pass. I had been looking
forward to introducing Gary to this area but he isn't
here. He did get there in October '91 tho. Fished again
after dinner and caught many more little ones. Our plan
had been to take our layover day at Grouse Mdw. but
it is so nice here we considered taking it here. We
decided to stay with Grouse Mdw. In '81 we had made a
trip into Dusy Basin and were told how beautiful the
view was in LeConte. We purposely had an easy day
today 7.6 miles.
|
Day 11 Aug 11, 1982<br>We had a cold night and I
have a medium light bag. I thought the bag I brought
was a little heavier than the one I had been using
but the first morning out I could see hoe the
insulation haf pulled back from the zipper anfd inch or two
on eack side. Still it does quite well in the
summer. The ace bandage I put on at Fish Ck. three days
ago got to uncomfortable to wear and I had to remove
it during the night but at least my knee is better.
We slept till 8AM fished some for breakfast and
started out at 9:40. In just under 2 1/2 hours we were on
Selden Pass enjoying the view. Passed are special places
for me and for Owen. A chance tothrow the pack down
and kiss the ground for a while. Looking back we get
our last view of the Minerets and ahead Heart Lk. and
S. Fork San Joaquin. We spent 45 minutes on the pass
about our usual amount of time. On the way down the
fish in the creek above Heart Lk. were at least 12
inches from the trail. Couldn't resist so I broke out my
fly rod and went down. The fish shrunk while I was
getting there to about 7 inches, no luck either. Fish
were everywhere and we found the same scene at Sally
Keyes Lk. inlet, 2 to 4 dozen trout. The west Sally
Keyes Lk was different than most with the inlet and the
outlet close together at the same end. Passing the
campsites on the ridge between the two lakes we again saw
the ranger, picking foil out of the fireplaces. He is
working his way out for his days off. Sally Keyes Lks.
are a very scenic spot and there is a fine meadow
below the lakes. We looked for but did not find the
cutoff trail to Blaney Mdws. that showes on my map,
didn't find it the next time either. It's a good thing
that we didn't want to take that trail. At Senger Ck.
we took a 30 minute rest then fell down the face of
the mountain, glad not to be going uphill here. On
the way down a big buck still in velvet broke thru
the brush just ahead of us (less than 30 feet)
crossed the trail and continued uphill. We finally came
to rest in camp on the east side of Piute Ck. Kings
Canyon NP at last. We did the last two miles in 45
minutes. Firewood was scarce but we were able to pick up
enough small sticks from under the manzanita to cook
dinner. Visited some of the others there before bed. 13.1
miles today, longest daily distance of the trip.
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Day 10 Aug 10.1982<br>We halfway hung our packs
last night because we were close to Edison Lk. and
campgrounds. I say halfway because we just pulled them about 8
feet up with the old tied off rope trick. We tied on
our pan alarm and about 2 AM I heard the clank of
metal...from the bell on the horse or mule that walked by on
the trail. We boiled some coffee water for our sore
footed guests from last night. We visited for a while so
didn't get the early start we had planned on. The woman
grew up in Iceland and her and her husband live in
L.A. They didn't have much to eat and soon moved on to
Mono Hot Spgs. We started at 9:15 talked to some
people on the trail and soon made the saddle on Bear
Ridge. It looked like a good sign but the trail didn't
go over there but switchbacked up the ridge then
snaked along near the top. Every time it looked like we
were going to start down the trail veered north and
climbed higher. After much cursing we finally made the
top and actually started down. From the north you
climb 2200 feet then drop 1100 on the south side. I was
ready to strangle the yahoo who designed that one. The
next time I crossed that ridge I was prepared from
this experience and it did not bother me quite as
much. We stopped at a small creek on the way down for
lunch and about an hour later came to Bear Ck. Bear Ck
lies in a deep valley very much like Cascade Valley
and presented a beautiful view on the way down. This
creek is very fishable and we did just that the
following year when we spent a week here along with my
younger son Brian and a friend. We crossed Hilgard Branch
on the bridge which we found washed out the
following year. I moved on ahead to find a camp near the
Bear Ck. crossing arriving at 4:50PM and Owen caught
up about 10 minutes later. The crossing was high and
swift but just downstream was an island with two logs
that we crossed on. One of the logs was still there in
'83 but the second had washed away. We came upon the
ranger doing some trail work and talked a while. We soon
found a campsite and while I fixed dinner Owen went
fishing. After dinner he went back and after doing the
dishes I joined him. He had lost his lure and was
starting back to camp. I fished for a while and caught 4
two of which we kept. One was a golden and the other
a golden/brook cross. Back in camp we watched the
alpenglow on Seven Gables and I smoked a bowlful before
turning in. 10.2 miles today.
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Day 9 Aug 9, 1982<br>We were visited by a ghost
bear last night. I awoke to see the shape of a bear
just beyond flashlight range. I stared and stared and
it looked like it moved and it didn't look like it.
I finally figured it was my imagination, maybe. In
the morning it turned out to be a stump and it still
hadn't moved. At the time the trail junction was in the
forest but when I returned in '92 an avalanch had
removed all the trees. Under way 8:45, have to remedy
this abberation of starting so early. I try to
identify a flower every day, today it is the Mountain
Bluebell. On the way to Silver Pass we passed two groups
going north. Their stories, bears ahead south of Muir
Pass. We will hear similar tales all the way down. We
ran into a fair amount of snow before the pass but it
was clear on the south side. The view from Silver
Pass north is as good as that from Donahue. Makes
sense since it is the same view backwards. It's all
there; Banner, Ritter, the Minerets. Words fail me it
just has to be seen. We spent a half hour at the pass
and found a second flower, Drabo, just growing out of
a small crack in the rock. We started down from the
pass and the next people we ran into had horror tales
of stream crossings. Just past a meadow that I can't
remember the name of now the trail breaks out onto a
hillside with a grand view of the north fork of Mono Ck.,
a very deep and wide U-shaped canyon. Then the
trail switchbacks downs to the base of the cascading
creek from the meadow above. It was running quite full
and was an exiting sight. A little further on we came
tof the crossing of the N. fork Mono Ck. It also was
running quite full. We went upstream a ways and found two
logs crossing the torrent. I started off with one foot
on each log but the farther I got the more
vertically seperated they became. With each step I leaned
over a little more until I was on hands and knees for
the last 10 feet. I took off my pack, started to
breath again and went to help Owen. Owen didn't need any
he put his feet on the lower log and his hands on
the upper and moved sideways. The next person we ran
into had left the Mexican border on 5/27 and was
headed to Oregon. he also told us he had see a grizzly
at Mono Hot Spgs. Our eyes rolled and then he said
they were using it to make a commercial. When we next
saw Gary we couldn't wait to tell him but he already
knew because they had also made one of the commercials
in Bakersfield. Every time I saw one of those
commercials I was reminded of that encounter. We continued on
past Pocket Mdw. where we saw a camp which later
turned out to be that of a friend who was at Mott Lk.
that day. We finally arrived at Mono Ck. crossing
after Owen asking only 3 times how much farther. We
made camp at a site on the north side of the creek
just downstream of the bridge. It was on top of a
small cliff with a view down to the bridge and had a
nich bench. Wood is plentiful here just near camp,
which is a surprise considerding the number of people
here. I soaked my feet in the creek until I could feel
them again and we fixed dinner. Near that time a
couple came walking down the trail, the woman walking in
sock feet and carrying her boots. They had come from
Mosquito Flat and were headed to Mono Hot Spgs. They asked
how much farther I said 10 miles or so and suggested
they stop for the night. They did and immediately
rolled out their bags. 10.9 hard miles today.
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Howard,<br><br>I am also really loving your
story, please keep it up. I think maybe people didn't
want to interrupt the flow of the story, I know I
didn't want to post something out of respect. But, I am
really enjoying it, and have also read some of it to my
wife, who is not really even a backpacker! I look
forward to reading the daily installment every day!
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Day 8 Aug 8, 1982<br>Off to an early start, 8:40.
The last of the clouds cleared off last night so we
are once again walking in the warm sunshine. We soon
came to Purple Lk. took a brief, 30 min, rest looking
at the fine lake. After a STEEP ascent we crossed
the inlet to Virginia Lk. where we saw and old man
with two young girls just arriving. Don't know who was
leading who. Then down an even steeper descent from which
we dould loook down and see the trail junction,
which was still in the meadow then. We soon arrived at
Tully Hole. We continued on downstream and took lunch
beside a pool in Fish Ck. At last at the bottom of this
large Yosemite like canyonwe have looked into since
yesterday. Another future fishing trip, which we made
several years later. My left knee has been bothering me
since Donahue Pass so I wrapped it with an elastic
bandage. While eating we couldn't help but notice the
fish. Our plan had been to climb to near Silver Pass
for the night be we decided to stop just after
crossing the bridge. The water was quite high and fast. We
made camp near the trail junction and started out to
fish. It was not the smooth water we had seen above but
mostly a cascade as far down as we went. There were a
few fine holes and we each caught a trout from the
same hole, Owen on the way down and I on the way back.
We won't get to Mono Ck. early enough to fish now
but this will do just fine. Good to taste trout
again. Since Gary left everything seems a chore; uphill,
cutting meals down for two, packing, unpacking. It seems
an eternity since we left Happy Isles but we are
seeing new country now, new for me since Devils
Postpile. We are not seeiung as many people now either.
Felt a small earthquake this evening around 8:45. 7.3
miles today.
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Do you ever wonder if anyone is listening? Yes,
we are following it daily and the wife comes in to
hear the latest chapter. Since I am stuck to this desk
and can't get out there for a while, at least we can
enjoy YOUR trip.<br><br>Thanks, and keep it up Howard.
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