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S-38 CW knob?


 

The CW knob on the S-38 I just bought is missing. ?Is there anything special about that knob, or is it the same as the others? ?I see that the shaft has threads unlike the others.
?
thanks, Fraser, W3UTD


 

I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured.
Same knob used on the S-40 and S-40A. fits 1/8" shaft and has some sort
of stop pin to work with the bent out tab on the front panel hole for
the BFO shaft. I made a reducer from a short length of 1/4" tubing that
had the right internal diameter (1/8"). Cut a slot in the tube to clear
the set screw and just cemented a small nut inside the skirt to act as a
stop. You must adjust the BFO for center frequency using its screwdrive
slot. Use the signal generator you use to set up the IF. When its set
put the knob on and tighten the set screw. The depth of the knob has to
be right to make the stop work right. A bit tedious.
I have never been able to find a genuine knob so I don't know if
they were special or a regular knob with a fitting. My knob works and
looks OK but is really rather a makeshift.
The same knob may have been used on other receivers.


On 11/17/2024 12:00 PM, Fraser via groups.io wrote:
The CW knob on the S-38 I just bought is missing. ?Is there anything
special about that knob, or is it the same as the others? ?I see that
the shaft has threads unlike the others.
thanks, Fraser, W3UTD
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 
Edited

Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom
plate. The inside of the knob is labeled "15-A-058" or "15-A-056,"
although I don't imagine that matters.

It sounds as if your knob is a close substitute, Richard.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/17/24 12:59, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:
I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured.
Same knob used on the S-40 and S-40A. fits 1/8" shaft and has some sort
of stop pin to work with the bent out tab on the front panel hole for
the BFO shaft. I made a reducer from a short length of 1/4" tubing that
had the right internal diameter (1/8"). Cut a slot in the tube to clear
the set screw and just cemented a small nut inside the skirt to act as a
stop. You must adjust the BFO for center frequency using its screwdrive
slot. Use the signal generator you use to set up the IF. When its set
put the knob on and tighten the set screw. The depth of the knob has to
be right to make the stop work right. A bit tedious.
I have never been able to find a genuine knob so I don't know if
they were special or a regular knob with a fitting. My knob works and
looks OK but is really rather a makeshift.
The same knob may have been used on other receivers.

On 11/17/2024 12:00 PM, Fraser via groups.io wrote:

The CW knob on the S-38 I just bought is missing. ?Is there anything
special about that knob, or is it the same as the others? ?I see that
the shaft has threads unlike the others.
thanks, Fraser, W3UTD

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

Thank you. Thats just what I imagined. My makeshift is not so
makeshift. The stop is molded into the edge/skirt while I glued a small
nut on. The reduction shaft I made could be cemented in.


On 11/17/2024 4:18 PM, Maynard Wright wrote:
Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom
plate.? The inside of the knob is labeled "15-A-058" or "15-A-056,"
although I don't imagine that matters.

It sounds as if your knob is a close substitute, Richard.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

开云体育

Maynard , Thanks from me too .. so it has a brass insert for fit 1/8” , and the knob plastic is the same as others but has that extra stop “辫颈苍”?

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Maynard Wright via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 7:19 PM
To: [email protected]; Richard Knoppow; FraserW3UTD@...
Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] S-38 CW knob?

?

Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom
plate. The inside of the knob is labeled "15-A-058" or "15-A-056,"
although I don't imagine that matters.

It sounds as if your knob is a close substitute, Richard.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP

On 11/17/24 12:59, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:

I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured.
Same knob used on the S-40 and S-40A. fits 1/8" shaft and has some sort
of stop pin to work with the bent out tab on the front panel hole for
the BFO shaft. I made a reducer from a short length of 1/4" tubing that
had the right internal diameter (1/8"). Cut a slot in the tube to clear
the set screw and just cemented a small nut inside the skirt to act as a
stop. You must adjust the BFO for center frequency using its screwdrive
slot. Use the signal generator you use to set up the IF. When its set
put the knob on and tighten the set screw. The depth of the knob has to
be right to make the stop work right. A bit tedious.
I have never been able to find a genuine knob so I don't know if
they were special or a regular knob with a fitting. My knob works and
looks OK but is really rather a makeshift.
The same knob may have been used on other receivers.

On 11/17/2024 12:00 PM, Fraser via groups.io wrote:

The CW knob on the S-38 I just bought is missing. ?Is there anything
special about that knob, or is it the same as the others? ?I see that
the shaft has threads unlike the others.
thanks, Fraser, W3UTD

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


--
don??? va3drl


 

You can see the stop in his pictures. Just a plastic boss on the rim
inside the little skirt. The brass insert is probably molded into the
knob, can't tell. However, its easy enough to make an adapter.


On 11/17/2024 6:37 PM, don Root wrote:
Maynard, Thanks from me too .. so it has a brass insert for fit 1/8” ,
and the knob plastic is the same as others but has that extra stop “辫颈苍”?

*From:*[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Maynard Wright via
groups.io
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

The brass insert appears to be molded in place. The extra plastic stop
is molded as a part of the knob. The rounded edges probably don't
matter as a rectangular cross section of plastic would do just as well,
I think. The brass insert has a hole that is threaded for a set screw
and that is reached through an unthreaded hole in the plastic knob. All
the knob set screws in this S-38 are slotted. Very much like similar
knobs that don't have the extra stop.

The shaft that accepts the 1/8 inch brass insert in the knob is threaded
its full length and I don't think that it is an extremely tight fit
under normal circumstances. It has a screwdriver slot in its tip that
is used to adjust the BFO before installing the knob as Richard pointed out.

Mine has an interesting modification. The BFO knob is missing its
setscrew and someone applied some very thin tape to the threaded shaft
to make it hard to push on the knob. Once in place, it rotates properly
stop to stop. I wonder whether someone stripped the threads or just
lost the setscrew. I haven't gotten around to looking into that.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/17/24 18:43, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:
You can see the stop in his pictures. Just a plastic boss on the rim
inside the little skirt. The brass insert is probably molded into the
knob, can't tell. However, its easy enough to make an adapter.

On 11/17/2024 6:37 PM, don Root wrote:

Maynard, Thanks from me too .. so it has a brass insert for fit 1/8” ,
and the knob plastic is the same as others but has that extra stop
“辫颈苍”?

*From:*[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Maynard Wright
via
groups.io

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 
Edited

I don't think the stop is necessary but jut to keep you from cranking it too far off so operation quits.? I just used a regular knob and made an adapter out of 1/4" aluminum sound stock and drilled and tapped it for the coil stub...
?
?
?
73,
--
Justin B.
KI5GKD


 

Its used mainly to prevent the BFO from being set far from its
correct frequency. Simple to glue something like a small nut to the back
of the knob opposite to where the red dot it.
My adapter shaft has a slot cut in it with a file to clear the set
screw, which remains threaded in the larger knob insert. You may need a
longer set screw. It works like the original knob.
I would not tap the insert, there is no point to it. The entire
assembly is held on by the original set screw (or a slightly longer one
if necessary. When its tightened the adapter will not move. Don't make
it more complicated than necessary.


On 11/17/2024 9:56 PM, Justin Bowser - KI5GKD wrote:
I don't think the stop is necessary but jut to keep you from cranking it
too far off so operation quits.? I just used a regular knob and made an
adapter out of 1/4" aluminum sound stock and drilled and tapped it for
the coil stub...
73,
--
Justin B.
KI5GKD

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

Clarification: Since the stop tab of the receiver is at the bottom of
the hole for the BFO shaft the stop on the knob should be on the same
side as the red dot. By "opposite" meant across from it on the back of
the knob. But if the red dot is to be centered at the top when zero beat
the stop must also be on the top.
Getting the depth of the knob on the shaft is important or else the
knob will either run into the panel when turned in or the stop on the
knob will miss the stop on the panel when turned out. Not difficult but
something else to remember. One could probably make a gauge of some sort
to stick under the edge of the knob to establish the spacing from the
panel.


On 11/17/2024 10:39 PM, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:
Its used mainly to prevent the BFO from being set far from its
correct frequency. Simple to glue something like a small nut to the back
of the knob opposite to where the red dot it.
My adapter shaft has a slot cut in it with a file to clear the set
screw, which remains threaded in the larger knob insert. You may need a
longer set screw. It works like the original knob.
I would not tap the insert, there is no point to it. The entire
assembly is held on by the original set screw (or a slightly longer one
if necessary. When its tightened the adapter will not move. Don't make
it more complicated than necessary.

On 11/17/2024 9:56 PM, Justin Bowser - KI5GKD wrote:

I don't think the stop is necessary but jut to keep you from
cranking it
too far off so operation quits.? I just used a regular knob and made an
adapter out of 1/4" aluminum sound stock and drilled and tapped it for
the coil stub...
73,
--
Justin B.
KI5GKD


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

Justin, thanks.? After seeing the replies and Maynard's picture, I have a good idea of how to modify a normal knob. Your idea is pretty much where my mind was going.
?
Thanks to all.
?
Fraser, W3UTD


 

Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob
was originally cast around a 1/4 inch brass insert with the added
plastic stop cast integrally and then a 1/8 inch sleeve with a larger
section with a shoulder as a stop was pressed in later.

Not sure about that and I don't want to try to pry my knob apart to test
that theory, but there appears to be a joint between the shoulder of the
1/8 inch insert (if that's what it is) and the flat brass surface of the
1/4 inch insert that adjoins the plastic knob. The insert would have to
have a hole for the set screw but only one of the two holes, which would
have to be aligned, would have to be threaded.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/18/24 03:54, Fraser via groups.io wrote:
Justin, thanks.? After seeing the replies and Maynard's picture, I have
a good idea of how to modify a normal knob. Your idea is pretty much
where my mind was going.
Thanks to all.
Fraser, W3UTD


 

About what I imagined. While the plastic stop could be cemented in
it makes more sense to cast it in. If the bushing for the shaft is in
two layers then perhaps an added reducer was added to the usual 1/4"
bushing. The one I made has a slot cut in it (with a file) to clear the
set screw. I used the original set screw but a somewhat longer one might
be necessary since the threaded part of the hole would be only the
original bushing. This arrangement works fine. There is little torque
needed to turn the BFO shaft. If making a knob one could even leave the
stop off, just adjust the BFO shaft for zero beat at the IF frequency
and put the knob with shaft adapter on with the red indicator dot in the
correct position.


On 11/20/2024 7:27 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote:
Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob
was originally cast around a 1/4 inch brass insert with the added
plastic stop cast integrally and then a 1/8 inch sleeve with a larger
section with a shoulder as a stop was pressed in later.

Not sure about that and I don't want to try to pry my knob apart to test
that theory, but there appears to be a joint between the shoulder of the
1/8 inch insert (if that's what it is) and the flat brass surface of the
1/4 inch insert that adjoins the plastic knob. The insert would have to
have a hole for the set screw but only one of the two holes, which would
have to be aligned, would have to be threaded.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

On my knob, the red indicator dot is across the knob from one edge of
the plastic stop, not centered on the stop as I would think would be right.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/20/24 07:54, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:
About what I imagined. While the plastic stop could be cemented in
it makes more sense to cast it in. If the bushing for the shaft is in
two layers then perhaps an added reducer was added to the usual 1/4"
bushing. The one I made has a slot cut in it (with a file) to clear the
set screw. I used the original set screw but a somewhat longer one might
be necessary since the threaded part of the hole would be only the
original bushing. This arrangement works fine. There is little torque
needed to turn the BFO shaft. If making a knob one could even leave the
stop off, just adjust the BFO shaft for zero beat at the IF frequency
and put the knob with shaft adapter on with the red indicator dot in the
correct position.

On 11/20/2024 7:27 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote:

Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob
was originally cast around a 1/4 inch brass insert with the added
plastic stop cast integrally and then a 1/8 inch sleeve with a larger
section with a shoulder as a stop was pressed in later.

Not sure about that and I don't want to try to pry my knob apart to test
that theory, but there appears to be a joint between the shoulder of the
1/8 inch insert (if that's what it is) and the flat brass surface of the
1/4 inch insert that adjoins the plastic knob. The insert would have to
have a hole for the set screw but only one of the two holes, which would
have to be aligned, would have to be threaded.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 

I agree, the stop on the knob should be right behind the red dot.
It is possible the stop on the knob is not molded in but stuck on? That
would make sense of the knobs for the BFO are just standard knobs with
an reducing tube. Or else, its a makeshift like the ones I made.
Hallicrafters used these knobs on the S-38 and the S-40/A and maybe B. I
wonder if enough knobs were used to justify molding specials, with
different inserts. Some of this style of knob does not have metal
inserts, just plastic with the set screw just threaded into the plastic.
I am quite sure old Hallicrafters business records that might have
the answers were long ago destroyed.


On 11/20/2024 8:37 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote:
On my knob, the red indicator dot is across the knob from one edge of
the plastic stop, not centered on the stop as I would think would be right.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP

On 11/20/24 07:54, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote:

About what I imagined. While the plastic stop could be cemented in
it makes more sense to cast it in. If the bushing for the shaft is in
two layers then perhaps an added reducer was added to the usual 1/4"
bushing. The one I made has a slot cut in it (with a file) to clear the
set screw. I used the original set screw but a somewhat longer one might
be necessary since the threaded part of the hole would be only the
original bushing. This arrangement works fine. There is little torque
needed to turn the BFO shaft. If making a knob one could even leave the
stop off, just adjust the BFO shaft for zero beat at the IF frequency
and put the knob with shaft adapter on with the red indicator dot in the
correct position.

On 11/20/2024 7:27 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote:

Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob
was originally cast around a 1/4 inch brass insert with the added
plastic stop cast integrally and then a 1/8 inch sleeve with a larger
section with a shoulder as a stop was pressed in later.

Not sure about that and I don't want to try to pry my knob apart to test
that theory, but there appears to be a joint between the shoulder of the
1/8 inch insert (if that's what it is) and the flat brass surface of the
1/4 inch insert that adjoins the plastic knob. The insert would have to
have a hole for the set screw but only one of the two holes, which would
have to be aligned, would have to be threaded.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


 
Edited

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Richard Knoppow via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2024 11:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] S-38 CW knob?

?

I agree, the stop on the knob should be right behind the red dot.
It is possible the stop on the knob is not molded in but stuck on? That
would make sense of the knobs for the BFO are just standard knobs with
an reducing tube. Or else, its a makeshift like the ones I made.
Hallicrafters used these knobs on the S-38 and the S-40/A and maybe B. I
wonder if enough knobs were used to justify molding specials, with
different inserts. Some of this style of knob does not have metal
inserts, just plastic with the set screw just threaded into the plastic.
I am quite sure old Hallicrafters business records that might have
the answers were long ago destroyed.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


--
don??? va3drl


 
Edited

开云体育

…. other S-38s don’t seem to have all knobs listed , but ??for the 厂-40叠….. ?

??


--
don??? va3drl


 

By visual inspection, I think that the plastic stop is molded as a part
of the knob even though it appears that the 1/8 diameter shaft was
accommodated by an insert into the 1/4 inch brass sleeve around which
the knob was molded. So I think that the red dot was painted improperly
or that the intent is to allow by slightly different rotations to the
stop from each direction. The difference is slight.

When I can, I will pull the knob from my S-40B to see how it compares.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/20/24 09:50, don Root wrote:
*From:*[email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Richard Knoppow
via groups.io
*Sent:* Wednesday, November 20, 2024 11:50 AM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [HallicraftersRadios] S-38 CW knob?

I agree, the stop on the knob should be right behind the red dot.
It is possible the stop on the knob is not molded in but stuck on? That
would make sense of the knobs for the BFO are just standard knobs with
an reducing tube. Or else, its a makeshift like the ones I made.
Hallicrafters used these knobs on the S-38 and the S-40/A and maybe B. I
wonder if enough knobs were used to justify molding specials, with
different inserts. Some of this style of knob does not have metal
inserts, just plastic with the set screw just threaded into the plastic.
I am quite sure old Hallicrafters business records that might have
the answers were long ago destroyed.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998


--
don??? va3drl


 

Only the S-38 with no suffix should have a CW pitch knob, I think. All,
or most, of the S-38s with a suffix letter use IF regeneration for the
CW oscillator and there is no front panel adjustment.

73,

Maynard
W6PAP


On 11/20/24 10:00, don Root wrote:
…. other S-38s don’t seem to have all knobs listed , but ??for the
*厂-40叠…..*

**


--
don??? va3drl