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S-38 CW knob?
I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured.
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Same knob used on the S-40 and S-40A. fits 1/8" shaft and has some sort of stop pin to work with the bent out tab on the front panel hole for the BFO shaft. I made a reducer from a short length of 1/4" tubing that had the right internal diameter (1/8"). Cut a slot in the tube to clear the set screw and just cemented a small nut inside the skirt to act as a stop. You must adjust the BFO for center frequency using its screwdrive slot. Use the signal generator you use to set up the IF. When its set put the knob on and tighten the set screw. The depth of the knob has to be right to make the stop work right. A bit tedious. I have never been able to find a genuine knob so I don't know if they were special or a regular knob with a fitting. My knob works and looks OK but is really rather a makeshift. The same knob may have been used on other receivers. On 11/17/2024 12:00 PM, Fraser via groups.io wrote: The CW knob on the S-38 I just bought is missing. ?Is there anything --
Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom
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plate. The inside of the knob is labeled "15-A-058" or "15-A-056," although I don't imagine that matters. It sounds as if your knob is a close substitute, Richard. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/17/24 12:59, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote: I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured. |
Thank you. Thats just what I imagined. My makeshift is not so
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makeshift. The stop is molded into the edge/skirt while I glued a small nut on. The reduction shaft I made could be cemented in. On 11/17/2024 4:18 PM, Maynard Wright wrote: Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
开云体育Maynard , Thanks from me too .. so it has a brass insert for fit 1/8” , and the knob plastic is the same as others but has that extra stop “辫颈苍”? ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Maynard Wright via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 7:19 PM To: [email protected]; Richard Knoppow; FraserW3UTD@... Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] S-38 CW knob? ? Here's the knob from my S-38, probably early as it has a metal bottom I had to make a couple but had to guess as to how it was configured. -- don??? va3drl |
You can see the stop in his pictures. Just a plastic boss on the rim
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inside the little skirt. The brass insert is probably molded into the knob, can't tell. However, its easy enough to make an adapter. On 11/17/2024 6:37 PM, don Root wrote: Maynard, Thanks from me too .. so it has a brass insert for fit 1/8” , --
Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
The brass insert appears to be molded in place. The extra plastic stop
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is molded as a part of the knob. The rounded edges probably don't matter as a rectangular cross section of plastic would do just as well, I think. The brass insert has a hole that is threaded for a set screw and that is reached through an unthreaded hole in the plastic knob. All the knob set screws in this S-38 are slotted. Very much like similar knobs that don't have the extra stop. The shaft that accepts the 1/8 inch brass insert in the knob is threaded its full length and I don't think that it is an extremely tight fit under normal circumstances. It has a screwdriver slot in its tip that is used to adjust the BFO before installing the knob as Richard pointed out. Mine has an interesting modification. The BFO knob is missing its setscrew and someone applied some very thin tape to the threaded shaft to make it hard to push on the knob. Once in place, it rotates properly stop to stop. I wonder whether someone stripped the threads or just lost the setscrew. I haven't gotten around to looking into that. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/17/24 18:43, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote: You can see the stop in his pictures. Just a plastic boss on the rim |
Its used mainly to prevent the BFO from being set far from its
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correct frequency. Simple to glue something like a small nut to the back of the knob opposite to where the red dot it. My adapter shaft has a slot cut in it with a file to clear the set screw, which remains threaded in the larger knob insert. You may need a longer set screw. It works like the original knob. I would not tap the insert, there is no point to it. The entire assembly is held on by the original set screw (or a slightly longer one if necessary. When its tightened the adapter will not move. Don't make it more complicated than necessary. On 11/17/2024 9:56 PM, Justin Bowser - KI5GKD wrote: I don't think the stop is necessary but jut to keep you from cranking it -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
Clarification: Since the stop tab of the receiver is at the bottom of
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the hole for the BFO shaft the stop on the knob should be on the same side as the red dot. By "opposite" meant across from it on the back of the knob. But if the red dot is to be centered at the top when zero beat the stop must also be on the top. Getting the depth of the knob on the shaft is important or else the knob will either run into the panel when turned in or the stop on the knob will miss the stop on the panel when turned out. Not difficult but something else to remember. One could probably make a gauge of some sort to stick under the edge of the knob to establish the spacing from the panel. On 11/17/2024 10:39 PM, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote: Its used mainly to prevent the BFO from being set far from its --
Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob
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was originally cast around a 1/4 inch brass insert with the added plastic stop cast integrally and then a 1/8 inch sleeve with a larger section with a shoulder as a stop was pressed in later. Not sure about that and I don't want to try to pry my knob apart to test that theory, but there appears to be a joint between the shoulder of the 1/8 inch insert (if that's what it is) and the flat brass surface of the 1/4 inch insert that adjoins the plastic knob. The insert would have to have a hole for the set screw but only one of the two holes, which would have to be aligned, would have to be threaded. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/18/24 03:54, Fraser via groups.io wrote: Justin, thanks.? After seeing the replies and Maynard's picture, I have |
About what I imagined. While the plastic stop could be cemented in
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it makes more sense to cast it in. If the bushing for the shaft is in two layers then perhaps an added reducer was added to the usual 1/4" bushing. The one I made has a slot cut in it (with a file) to clear the set screw. I used the original set screw but a somewhat longer one might be necessary since the threaded part of the hole would be only the original bushing. This arrangement works fine. There is little torque needed to turn the BFO shaft. If making a knob one could even leave the stop off, just adjust the BFO shaft for zero beat at the IF frequency and put the knob with shaft adapter on with the red indicator dot in the correct position. On 11/20/2024 7:27 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote: Visual inspection of my knob leads me to believe that the plastic knob --
Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
On my knob, the red indicator dot is across the knob from one edge of
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the plastic stop, not centered on the stop as I would think would be right. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/20/24 07:54, Richard Knoppow via groups.io wrote: About what I imagined. While the plastic stop could be cemented in |
I agree, the stop on the knob should be right behind the red dot.
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It is possible the stop on the knob is not molded in but stuck on? That would make sense of the knobs for the BFO are just standard knobs with an reducing tube. Or else, its a makeshift like the ones I made. Hallicrafters used these knobs on the S-38 and the S-40/A and maybe B. I wonder if enough knobs were used to justify molding specials, with different inserts. Some of this style of knob does not have metal inserts, just plastic with the set screw just threaded into the plastic. I am quite sure old Hallicrafters business records that might have the answers were long ago destroyed. On 11/20/2024 8:37 AM, Maynard Wright, P. E., W6PAP via groups.io wrote: On my knob, the red indicator dot is across the knob from one edge of --
Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL SKCC 19998 |
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Richard Knoppow via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2024 11:50 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] S-38 CW knob? ? I agree, the stop on the knob should be right behind the red dot. -- -- don??? va3drl |
By visual inspection, I think that the plastic stop is molded as a part
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of the knob even though it appears that the 1/8 diameter shaft was accommodated by an insert into the 1/4 inch brass sleeve around which the knob was molded. So I think that the red dot was painted improperly or that the intent is to allow by slightly different rotations to the stop from each direction. The difference is slight. When I can, I will pull the knob from my S-40B to see how it compares. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/20/24 09:50, don Root wrote: *From:*[email protected] |
Only the S-38 with no suffix should have a CW pitch knob, I think. All,
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or most, of the S-38s with a suffix letter use IF regeneration for the CW oscillator and there is no front panel adjustment. 73, Maynard W6PAP On 11/20/24 10:00, don Root wrote: …. other S-38s don’t seem to have all knobs listed , but ??for the |