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First let me say that a number of different methods as suggested by the group were tried in freeing the toner ink page face bonding problem. None resulted in foolproof and repeatable results. An email exchange with a couple of document restoration entities produced no better results.

In general the process that seems to produce some benefit is as follows
1) Freezing the pages and then flexing them sharply by pulling them back and forth over the edge of a table while still cold serves to break some but not all of the bonds. Rolfing them so to speak
2)Then carefully using a very thin but not sharp blade with a rounded tip such as a very old butter knife or painters mixing knife. Slowly teasing the stuck surfaces apart as vertically as possible (think tensile bonds versus shear bonds) from each other.

In the end the pages once separated were still not useable anymore, to many missing letters , broken lines etc. Scanning the resulting degraded document and then using a photo editor such a Paint or Photoshop to painstakingly redo lines and symbols, with a lot of deductive research and reference back to the board layout and parts list the document was ultimately electronically recreated. In the case of one schematic A8A1 our separation attempts resulted in an unrestorable document . Another list member (Dan in Chandler, AZ) also had a copy of the same CLIP. The bad news is Dan's attempts to open his own A8A1 page was worse than mine, resulting in as feared an unusable schematic, the good news is that several of the destroyed areas on my schematic were readable on Dan's and vice versa , those areas commonly damaged on both schematics were largely restored using PC Paint, and deductive logic, in all it took nearly 8 hours of graphic editing mouse time just to restore that one page which I feel is 99.5% accurate now ( I also found a couple of HP errrors in the process :-) )

After prying apart many pages ( the 70300A CLIP is fully restored) I tend to believe that the problem is not one of time making it worse but rather that the original process in that the pages had too much toner , improperly fused and quite possibly sent to the folding machine while they were still warm , bonding is clearly worse near the folded edge than farther out. I will now take my restored D size drawings to my local repo house and have them reprinted and stored with the original binder. If any one would like to purchase the original and restored CLIP contact me off list, digital copies will be soon be available as well

Dave
ArtekManuals.com


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Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
www.Artekmanuals.com
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265

Dave,

I have followed this thread with interest as I have occasionally run into
"fused" pages in documents in the past. During the online discussions I
have wondered if the contraction resulting from vacuum-drying the prints might
break the toner bonds in the correct places. It has been possible to save
water-soaked valuable books through immediate freezing and later vacuum
drying. Of course it would be necessary to find a suitable vessel to try
this.

Bruce

Bruce

My impression after working with this for awhile is that print was
folded while the page was still warmer and the toner to toner facing
pages are actually fused. But if you run on to a large vacuum dryer let
me know. Again as I think about that the drying would result in
contraction which would in turn result in shear forces and so far
tensile forces (perpendicular to the plane of the paper) seem to work
MUCH better

Dave

--
Dave Henderson
Manuals@...
www.Artekmanuals.com
PO Box 175
Welch,MN 55089
651-269-4265

Freezing is stop or prevent mold growth. Vacuum drying is to remove the
water from the bulk of the document uniformly.

-John

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