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Antony
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Re: Source for 6 inch CRT Data monitors for HP 8590x and others?
Sorry to dreg up an old thread. I just got around to looking at the five LP0615E3Y CRT modules that I picked for $25/ea.
They went fast on ebay if you remember. There was some talk about these parts not being an exact match for HP859xE SAs. Well I can say I have used two so far and they are an exact part match for my 8591E and 8594E. These units are even labelled internally with "Agilent P/N 2090-0539" and were manufactured sometime in 2003. --Victor |
Re: 182C CRT access
Hello,
On 9/23/09, erich_schlecht <schlechtca@...> wrote: yes, I then downloaded the service manual and found out there were only 4 screws to remove. I didn't need to remove any board, the bottom screws are accessible with a long screw driver. By the way, the original rubber foam (or whatever it was) surrounding the CRT face turned into a sticky dusty mess. I'm not sure how to find a replacement, but I'll think about something if everything else in the display works (I'm not sure about the tube itself since without this rubber ring it was moving around during all the shipment). Thanks Francesco IZ8DWF |
Re: HP rf detectors
[jg]Thanks. That means I already have some diodes that willBeware the fragility of these devices. The "burnout energy" of the 1N21 is 2 ergs in old money - a mere 200nJ in SI. They are very strictly square law small signal detectors or mixers. Craig |
HP 83545A A7 PCB
James
Hello group. I received info from Samir, and a manual from Dave at Artek. I isolated the problem (no power output) to the A7 board. I have two 83545 so I was able to determine it is the A7 by substitution. There was one capacitor that showed bad on my ESR meter. I replaced all of the electrolytics with the hopes that would cure my problem. It did not.
Now I am looking for a replacement A7 board 83545-60062. Does anyone know of a source for one? Also, does anyone have any experience in trouble shooting this board? I have the manual for the unit, and will crank up the scope when I get back from Chicago Sunday. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim N0OBG |
Re: Clock Doubler Design ideas
I never have used a slide rule. (I'm to young I guess) But itlooks like a fascinating thing. I have no clue how they work but I would love to learn it if it makes math more "visual" or logical You are adding the log-scaled lengths by sliding the ruler, and reading the sum of the two lengths from the other ruler.I have a pocket circular slide rule; it makes that part of the deal even easier. Depending on which way the answer wraps around (clockwise vs. counterclockwise), you shift the decimal point left/right. The back has an L/R/C/frequency nomogram, that you can write on with a pencil and erase with pencil eraser. Very, very convenient. For reasons that escape me at the moment, OS X's calculator takes longer to start up than getting the slide rule out of my pocket. Never mind actually typing the numbers into the calculator. Cheers, Kuba |
Re: 182C CRT access
Francesco,
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I have a 182T, but I think it works the same. The front of the plastic you can get up by pushing up the top of the frame and take out the contrast screen and RFI screen. To get at the back (I think that is what you wanted), take off the top cover. There are four screws around the four corners of the tube. (You should make sure the 182 is un-plugged, and be careful around the tube). The screws come out in the direction toward the rear. The one on the right top also goes through an aluminum bracket that also supports the board connected to the right front panel. Unfortunately, I can't see how to get at the right lower screw without taking the board off, which looks like a pain to me. Maybe you can figure it out... Good luck! Erich --- In hp_agilent_equipment@..., francesco messineo <francesco.messineo@...> wrote:
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Noise Figure Measuring System for sale....
pmanfre10
The system is the HP8970B, HP8971B and an Ailtech (Eaton) 7618e (or HP 346A or B)....is all in proper working condition ( currently serviced and verified). Noise figure meter is by itself good to 1.6 Ghz, and to 18 Ghz with external mixer (HP8971B.. which is included with the system), and also a proper LO Signal is needed. I have HP8970B and 8971B operation and service manuals on CD ...this is included (as well as the manuals for the 8970A, Eaton 2075-2, and lots of app notes on noise figure measuring). The Ailtech noise source is a model 7618e and has a calibration table covering 10Mhz to 18.0 Ghz...in current cal. (or can substitute an HP346A or B noise source for $300 additional). Pricing (only for info) ....8970B $1100, 8971B $1500 7618e $400 (or HP346A or B $700)...Sold as a package only ( will not seperate ) $3000 (or $3300 with HP346A or HP346B chose one) + Shipping. This is a super low price.....
Thanks, Pete WA2ODO |
HP rf detectors
John Griessen
Craig Sawyers wrote:
1N25 series ~ 1-2GHz (L-band)[jg]Thanks. That means I already have some diodes that will be good enough to make a 2 diode detector as Ed Lawrence WA5SWD mentioned or as in for up to 2.4GHz low power measurements. Next to find out how to make a good resistor termination + diodes layout for 200 or 300 Ohm balanced transmission line coming 6 or so inches from a folded dipole antenna on pc board. John Griessen |
Re: OT, but fairly basic question- rf detectors
and a gold pin on the other end marked 1N21B I have some other diodes like it from slotted lines. How do1N25 series ~ 1-2GHz (L-band) 1N21 series ~ 2-4GHz (S-band) 1N23 series ~ 8-12GHz (X-band) 1N78 series ~ 12-18GHz (Ku-band) 1N26 series ~ 18-26.5GHz (K-band) 1N53 series ~ 26.5-40GHz (Ka-band) They of course work at lower frequencies, but the construction optimises the noise figure in the microwave frequency range above. I've most commonly come across these as part of General Radio slotted line and impedance meter products, usually 1N21 and 1N23 in mixer and rectifier applications. Craig |
Wanted - 141T or 140s Mainframe
I'm looking for a 141T or 140S empty mainframe to purchase. If anyone has one I can pry loose or knows somebody that would sell one, please let me know.
I'm located in Saxonburg, PA, about 30 miles north of Pittsburgh and could drive at least a 5 hour radius to pick one up. Otherwise, I'll pay shipping. Many thanks, Jim W3BH Saxonburg, Pa 16056 kjsorenson@... |
Re: OT, but fairly basic question- rf detectors
J. Forster
One old diode I have is a gold plated cylindrical can with ceramic middleuA stands for Microwave Associates. That style of diode was used in WW II gear and up until the 1970s at least for S and X band mixers. Ther also came in an R version (reverse polarity) They are point contact, but I'd leave the screw alone. The diode has an adjusting screw on the flange end of the cylinder can!That's an HP X Band (10 GHz) WG detector, if I remember correctly. I have some other diodes like it from slotted lines. How do you tell howA slotted line is at least a 1/2 wavelenght long, so that'll give you some idea. What are you trying to do with the diode? If you are looking for something to level a sweeper or something, I'd look for something commercially made. A wire is not just a wire above a hundred MHz or so. FWIW, -John ============== |
Re: HP 141T Test Accessories
Joe Na
There is a commercail company that now makes new replacement cables for the back of the 141. IIRC they're about $140 each. They do have a website and you should be able to find them pretty easily. if you can't let me know and I'll look up the name.
??? FWIW the old SUN and SGI monitors used a similar cable and the connectors on it were called a "13W3" connectors (3 coax, 13 standard conductors). I've tried to cut those apart and use the cables on the 141 but never could make it work but then again I'm not sure that my peripherals (other then the 141) are any good. The sun and SGI connectors are molded and are a B#^&* to get apart! At 08:39 PM 9/21/2009, you wrote: Where can I get an extender board (HP P/N 11592-60011) for testing PC boards in the 141T plugins? Also needed is the cable (HP P/N 11592-60016) which connects the two plug-ins outside of the main frame. I know where to get a very expensive cable, but was looking for a more reasonable solution. Are the connectors available to make a cable? ----------- --------- --------- ------- Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
Re: OT, but fairly basic question- rf detectors
Joe Na
John,
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?? The 1n21B is an OLD diode! That style is what we used to call a 'Microwave' diode back when I was a kid in the early 1960s and it was OLD even then. In fact those are the first self-contained diodes ever built. They were developed during WW II and they talk about them in the MIT Radiation lab books that describe electronics developments made during the war. It's a silicon diode and you're right it does use a cat whisker! The screw moves the whisker around on the crystal for the best contact and they're then potted with wax so don't move the screw unless you have to and unless you know what you're doing. I have no idea how high the 1N21s go in frequency or how good they are relative to newer diodes but I strongly suspect that the newer diodes are much better! --- On Tue, 9/22/09, John Griessen <john@...> wrote:
From: John Griessen <john@...> Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: OT, but fairly basic question- rf detectors To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 5:22 PM ? Alan Melia wrote: I have collected a number of Marconi, GR and, and HP diode detectors most would be overkill as they are rated to 10GHz or higher. fredschneider2001 wrote: > Here is some info about those things. Very easy to make when it's under 1GHz. > . mcmaster. ca/~elmer101/ sqlaw/sqlaw. html Alan or anyone, How do you identify which of the old detector diodes go up to 2.4GHz? That's the frequency where I want to do some relative measurements to select good antenna layouts for peak power transfer with milliwatt chip radios. I'll be teeing off of a folded dipole antenna fed to a dummy load of 200 Ohms, (the antenna impedance), to go to the detector. One old diode I have is a gold plated cylindrical can with ceramic middle and a gold pin on the other end marked 1N21B and "microwave" and uA surrounded by a square. The diode has an adjusting screw on the flange end of the cylinder can! Does that mean cat whisker connection? That one is part of a X485B detector mount that attaches to 1cm X 3cm waveguide. I have some other diodes like it from slotted lines. How do you tell how fast they are? John Griessen |
Re: OT, but fairly basic question- rf detectors
John Griessen
Alan Melia wrote:
I have collected a number of Marconi, GR and, and HP diode detectors most would be overkillfredschneider2001 wrote: Here is some info about those things. Very easy to make when it's under 1GHz. Alan or anyone, How do you identify which of the old detector diodes go up to 2.4GHz? That's the frequency where I want to do some relative measurements to select good antenna layouts for peak power transfer with milliwatt chip radios. I'll be teeing off of a folded dipole antenna fed to a dummy load of 200 Ohms, (the antenna impedance), to go to the detector. One old diode I have is a gold plated cylindrical can with ceramic middle and a gold pin on the other end marked 1N21B and "microwave" and uA surrounded by a square. The diode has an adjusting screw on the flange end of the cylinder can! Does that mean cat whisker connection? That one is part of a X485B detector mount that attaches to 1cm X 3cm waveguide. I have some other diodes like it from slotted lines. How do you tell how fast they are? John Griessen |
Re: 332A balance pots
the pots are beyond repair??
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----- Original Message -----
From: mike To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:13 AM Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: 332A balance pots Excellent suggestions guys, thank you. I like the idea of pots inside the chassis, given the sensitivity of the bridge and it will keep it neater. A NOS pot appeals mostly because of simplicity and my desire to stay as close to original as possible but two separate new pots might be a very nice way to do it. Mike |
Re: 332A balance pots
Excellent suggestions guys, thank you. I like the idea of pots inside the chassis, given the sensitivity of the bridge and it will keep it neater. A NOS pot appeals mostly because of simplicity and my desire to stay as close to original as possible but two separate new pots might be a very nice way to do it.
Mike |
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