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+1 on the suggestion from Dave.? I use 2 part epoxy solutions from JB Weld for far too many applications.? It is sticky, elastic, and dries hard.? I have only used the 2-part kwik-weld (for plastic

Missed this first ime around. Do have a couple of comments: For qualtity hex keys (L shape) I use Bondhus or Unbrako For drivers (straight with handle) Xcelite. My Xcelite hex and Bristol spline

A thing to know about Amazon: They have a herd of sellers for each of their popular products. The only way they vet the sellers, AFAIK, is that the seller tells them that they have the product and

Yeah, I can't remember where I put my car keys, but I remember *that*. I happily accept the honor you have bestowed, Renaud -- the GAUM! -- Cheers Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 420

Hello Jon. Thanks for the kind offer but it would be overkill! That was more about curiosity than real usefulness of those little parts. I investigated more and the Great Award of Unusefulness Memory

Bonjour cher monsieur Voilà J'ai Tektronix 576 100 % parfait avec tous les adapteurs, mais ils reste aux ?tais Unis. Si vous pouvez envoyer quelques exemplaires les composants à via La Poste pour

It seems that the fet track seems dead. Sorry Andreas. I'll try some measurements in the lab when I can and report here. By the way some of you (same vintage breed as I am obviously) should probably

Thank you, Ed. May try some of those methods, but I feel it's not unreasonable to expect a good quality tool to last more than their third screw?... I'll most likely return the tool before I spend any

I think I recall Chuck suggested heating the screw with a soldering iron. You can also go the other way with freeze spray to thermally shock it and change the dimensions - just be careful to not

Just use a pair of pliers to grip the short arm and you'll get all of the torque you need. Paul

Radu- to make sure the allen is snug, I sometimes use thin rubber (actually latex/nitrile) glove over the allen wrench end to take up excessive play...works great on 1/8 inch and larger. never needed

I was considering using a BNC tee with BNC to smb adaptor patch leads until the part turns up, but your idea's also worth a shot by the sound of it. Anyway, time of bed here. Zzzzzzzzzzzz...

For SMB connections between modules, ?one of them are higher than 300 MHz on the 70900. As such, if you have some scrap (hopefully non HP) cables you can strip, trust ground braids together, solder

Following up on this. I got both the Wiha 35392 and an 8oz of Kroil - had both in my hands this PM and tried my luck with them. Out of four screws I needed to get moving, I managed to do three before

Yes, Don, I unfortunately do have the "YTO Unlock" flashing away in the top right corner of the screen and it's proving to be a serious PITA to track down the issue. I bought a load of test equipment

Yes, you need to check the actual output frequency of the circuitry. You will usually have a reason to do this because the SA is reporting/displaying a frequency error or unlock condition. Since they

Thank you, Don.? So it's still necessary to perform frequency measurements to test if the frequencies do actually agree with those displayed? IOW, it's possible for there to be a discrepancy between

Broken encoder shafts are a common problem on ReCroy 93xx and 94xx oscilloscopes due to so many sticking out the front and handling/shipping/dropping problems. You may want to search the LeCroy forum

Sounds right, Tom.? MRF935 or some part number like that had 4 leads in an X pattern.? 2 opposite were emitter, and base lead was cut at an angle to distinguish it from the collector.? B and C

Those look like some surplus transistors I bought from Poly-Paks (or possibly Meshna) in the 1970s, but many devices were packaged similarly, so it's hard to say with any confidence what yours are