Re: HP8714B source module extender needed
From: hp70000freak
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2019 06:57:29 PDT
Hello,
I had the same issue long time ago. It
was a faulty RF amplifier stage. As far as I can remember
schematics are in the net and the amplifier was something like ATF
53142 or so.?
I soldered thin coax onto the board in order to pickup the signal
stage by stage and find the fault.
?Cheers,
Hi.
Thanks for that, and yes I suspect it's just an internal
amplification issue.
Yes, I also found some schematics in the past, but also note
that ArtekManuals have the full service manual + clip.
??? ????? and just
put 8714B in the search box.
Need to find some space to do stuff like this, as those modules
with the covers removed (for access) are rather vulnerable to
mechanical damage.
Regards to All.
Dave B
(G0WBX)
--
Created on and sent from a Unix like PC running and using free and open source software:
|
Locked
Please avoid the use of bad language
Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd
I believe we should all encourage youngsters to join groups like these, especially the HP/Agilent/Keysight group, which can be very educational. Do please do so.?
I have received a complaint from someone who encouraged a young member to join, but feels unhappy about the use of bad language. I can see her point. So can you please all stop this.?
Dave (owner of both groups)? -- Dr. David Kirkby, Kirkby Microwave Ltd, drkirkby@...Telephone 01621-680100./ +44 1621 680100 Registered in England & Wales. Company number 08914892. Registered office: Stokes Hall Lodge, Burnham Rd, Althorne, Chelmsford, Essex, CM3 6DT, United Kingdom
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Hi, just to confirm: Yes, the battery is a CR17450SE and I replaced it on both my scopes 2013 and 2017 which is quite some work as one has to remove the mainboard to do so. The replacement was priced EUR30 and compared to the work in- volved, I was OK with it. Be aware: (1) If the battery is really empty, the scope even fails to start. (2) After re- placing the battery you will have to do a calibration which is automatic and guided by the firmware. From the datasheet of this battery (i.e. no recharge!!): 250mAh, 3V, max discharge 9mA continuous 150mA pulsed. Best wishes, Erik. On Fri, 30 Aug 2019, Gordon Slessor via Groups.Io wrote: If I remember correctly the battery is a CR17450 it?s a 2/3 A.A. 3 volts with two pins on the
positive and one pin on the negative. I have seen them on eBay but they are very Expensive and the
shipping is costly too so I use a AA 3.6 volt with long leads at both ends so I sleeved the
negative lead and solder it to the board it?s longer by a few mm but there is plenty of room.
The battery goes to two Dallas DS1210 each go to two CXK581000AM static cmos ram they hold the
calibration data and the switch settings when you turn it off. The Dallas chip is good to 4 volts
so ok with 3.7/3.6 volts. There are other batteries that can be made to fit. I alway change the
battery on any equipment I buy as you don?t know when the battery was installed these battery can
just fall below the cmos ram minimum voltage after many years of use. Has anyone got the CLIP for
these series of scopes if so I would like a copy.
Gordon Slessor GM1THS
''~`` ( o o ) +------------------------.oooO--(_)--Oooo.--------------------------+ | Dr. Erik Baigar Inertial Navigation & | | erik@... .oooO Vintage Computer | | www.baigar.de ( ) Oooo. Hobbyist | +---------------------------\ (----( )----------------------------+ \_) ) / (_/
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Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312
I also worked with the 6800 family (6892, 6808, 6909) between 1989 and 1984.
In 1986 I worked for the USAF and they were testing a a radiation hardened
version of the RCA micro.
In 1980 I bought myself a Heathkit H-89 computer. It had a Z-80 and ran.
CP/M. I used it as a development system until about 1989 when I got my first
PC Clone.
Bob Macklin
Seattle, Wa.
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Show quoted text
----- Original Message ----- From: "Harvey White" <madyn@...> To: < [email protected]> Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2019 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312 My time ended about 8 years before yours did. I saw mostly Intel (starting
with 8088/8086 and some 8080), I knew of Motorola (mostly the 6800
series). While I did have the Mostec books, the RCA COSMAC data (some of
it), and my own favorite (mostly due to cost, the 6502), I never saw them
in any sort of equipment that I did for my work, but that was military
spec stuff, which had its own (and highly beloved) processor.
Harvey
On 9/1/2019 10:48 PM, Bob Macklin wrote:
During my time in the industry (1970-1998) I never saw a MK3870 or any
other Mostec micro.
How popular were they?
Bob Macklin
Seattle, Wa.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Oconnor" <kjo@...>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2019 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Chips for 5315A/B counter:
1820-2131 and 1820-2312
To my knowledge the HP3870 was a MK3870 clone.
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312
My time ended about 8 years before yours did.? I saw mostly Intel (starting with 8088/8086 and some 8080), I knew of Motorola (mostly the 6800 series).? While I did have the Mostec books, the RCA COSMAC data (some of it), and my own favorite (mostly due to cost, the 6502), I never saw them in any sort of equipment that I did for my work, but that was military spec stuff, which had its own (and highly beloved) processor.
Harvey
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Show quoted text
On 9/1/2019 10:48 PM, Bob Macklin wrote: During my time in the industry (1970-1998) I never saw a MK3870 or any
other Mostec micro.
How popular were they?
Bob Macklin
Seattle, Wa.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Oconnor" <kjo@...>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2019 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Chips for 5315A/B counter:
1820-2131 and 1820-2312
To my knowledge the HP3870 was a MK3870 clone.
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312
During my time in the industry (1970-1998) I never saw a MK3870 or any
other Mostec micro.
How popular were they?
Bob Macklin
Seattle, Wa.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Oconnor" <kjo@...> To: < [email protected]> Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2019 2:47 PM Subject: Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312 To my knowledge the HP3870 was a MK3870 clone.
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder NOW a discussion about 3D printers
Greetings,
While the 3D printer discussion is very interesting, we have drifted far away from my search for manuals and parts for an Omega Engineering 640-3M chart recorder.
I would really appreciate if we could move the 3D printer discussion to its own well deserved thread with the sincere hope that someone out there can help me with my chart recorder.
Regarding 3D printers we have two or three where I work and different groups are making both good and useless parts on the things all the time.
I have the misfortune to be restoring a British car out of the 90¡¯s for which many plastic parts are no longer available from traditional sources or even eBay. ?In those cases I reverse engineer the part and send files to
.
I get excellent results for what I consider modest prices without having any money or time invested in yet another piece of equipment and supplies.
My two cents FWIW.
Regards,
Ken
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On 1Sep, 2019, at 6:06 PM, Harvey White < madyn@...> wrote:
I'll go with "yes they are" and "no they aren't".? Construction wise you get various levels of "good", size wise, generally, it depends on what you're making.
Firstly, read the reviews.
Secondly, after taking them with a grain of salt, generic is generally better, based on software, parts, and people who know what to fix.
3D printers are not a "drop in slot" type of technology.? Even if you had a "perfect" one, you'd still have to do tweaks based on what you're doing, printing materials, and perhaps software.
Can you, though, get decent results?? You have to define "decent" for several values of price and time.
My personal opinion is that a 3D printer can be a good thing, get the largest one you can afford.? Heated bed is needed, if you can get one with a dual head extruder.? It allows you to put transparent windows in cases for LEDs, or dual color inserts, if you
like that kind of thing.
Make sure you know the difference in the materials (ABS, PLA, etc....) and what they're good for.? Understand the tradeoffs. It's not going to be an exact science here.? Technology is not there unless you spend 20,000 dollars or more for a different technology.
Oh, and yes, I *do* have at least one, and use them, mostly for cases and support fixtures.
Harvey
On 9/1/2019 6:33 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or
I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
Hmmmm
PLA is a good general purpose plastic that is decent for prototypes, but may not be good for long term items.? It runs 20 to 30 USD per KG depending on where you buy.? It does not need a heated bed, but depending on what the bed coating is, may really *want* a heated bed.? ABS is ABS plastic, supposedly (depending), more durable, may or may not be nastier to work with (*does* require ventilation and a heated bed, and higher extruder temperatures).? May be nicer for things that need to be able to withstand wear.? I haven't used it.? Prices seem to be 30 to 40 dollars/kg.
Foil vs heated??? not sure what you're talking about.
A factor is 3D printing is bed adhesion, the more the better unless you can't get it off the baseplate.? Some materials (for the bed) have little adhesion when cold, lots more when hot.? Use when hot, let cool.? It's a factor.? ABS needs a heated bed, never used it.? As I mentioned, PLA doesn't need? heated bed, but that depends on the bed coating.
3D printing is useful, but it's not an exact science.
Harvey
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On 9/1/2019 6:48 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote: It seems these are more common over there than here in the States.
I don't know the relative merits of foil vs. heated.? As I don't buy f**k I am not aware of its expense? ;-)
What is PLA good for printing?
On 9/1/2019 6:37 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Hello,
my Exwife and I bought a RenkForce RF100 v2.
With a rebate Dorit got, but a four year stressless warranty, it cost us like 450USD carried out of the front door of the shop in Vienna. It works in a 12x12x12 cm size and treated us quite well.
Disadvantages:
a) the warranty requires return to THIS VERY shop of Conrad. We have another Conrad next door in Hungary, but it does not honor our warranty claim.
b) the print bed is not heated but uses a foil instead. This foil is pricey as fuck.
c) PLA only.
Tam
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 02. 0:33, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: 3D printing filament types, was Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Off topic regarding a chart recorder
You might try PETG. It warps little, similar to PLA, but has better
mechanical properties, similar to ABS.
I mostly print with ABS. The ability to vapor polish it is worth the
trouble of having an enclosed build volume (for thermal
stability/warping prevention etc) in doing replacements for old
injection-moulded parts. Printing nylon is another option, and a great
one for largish plastic gears, though the moisture sensitivity puts
off most people who don't have a vacuum oven at their disposal.
Polycarbonate has the same problem with moisture and is also very
warpy, but it's incredibly tough.
I actually went years printing only ABS before I ever printed in PLA.
To this day, I only really use PLA for moulds/forms, though I suppose
it would be my first choice for art objects too. Thanks for the
practical data about the biodegradability, that has been something
that's probably held me back from using PLA more.
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On Sun, 1 Sep 2019 at 20:38, Dave McGuire <mcguire@...> wrote:
On 9/1/19 6:48 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
What is PLA good for printing? I print everything in PLA, and am just starting to explore TPU, which
is the flexible "rubbery" stuff.
A lot of people hollar and scream about not using PLA because it's
"water soluble". Yeah, BS. I have a soap dish...yes a SOAP DISH in our
main bathroom I printed in PLA, and it's unchanged since the day it was
made about 2.5 years ago.
I avoid ABS like the plague. It's stronger in some ways than PLA, but
its fumes are toxic (and they stink to high heaven) and it warps like crazy.
Things I've printed recently in PLA:
- enclosures/chassis
- knobs and buttons
- mounting brackets for meters and displays
- various tools, support clips, etc for SMT PCB assembly work
- casting molds for my lady's soapmaking business
- lens caps for camera lenses
Things I'm experimenting with in TPU:
- toothed timing/drive belts
- replacement rubber feet (feet which I can't easily buy, like those
for DEC VT100 terminals)
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
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3D printing filament types, was Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Off topic regarding a chart recorder
On 9/1/19 6:48 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote: What is PLA good for printing? I print everything in PLA, and am just starting to explore TPU, which is the flexible "rubbery" stuff. A lot of people hollar and scream about not using PLA because it's "water soluble". Yeah, BS. I have a soap dish...yes a SOAP DISH in our main bathroom I printed in PLA, and it's unchanged since the day it was made about 2.5 years ago. I avoid ABS like the plague. It's stronger in some ways than PLA, but its fumes are toxic (and they stink to high heaven) and it warps like crazy. Things I've printed recently in PLA: - enclosures/chassis - knobs and buttons - mounting brackets for meters and displays - various tools, support clips, etc for SMT PCB assembly work - casting molds for my lady's soapmaking business - lens caps for camera lenses Things I'm experimenting with in TPU: - toothed timing/drive belts - replacement rubber feet (feet which I can't easily buy, like those for DEC VT100 terminals) -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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3D printers, was Re: [HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment] Off topic regarding a chart recorder
On 9/1/19 6:33 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote: I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What
would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small
fortune? This isn't really the case, as 3D printers haven't made the jump to real high-volume end-user sales. Once they show up at WalMart, they will be garbage. I have four 3D printers in my lab now, three FDM and one resin type. They all fall under the category of "cheap Chinese", and were all a few hundred dollars each. They are all *excellent* printers, built like tanks and great performers. There are better ones on the market, but at nowhere near this price point, and really, I've no complaints about any of these. For FDM printers, the ones I have are the ones that are re-badged and sold by Monoprice. I have the Select Mini, the Maker Select Plus, and the Maker Select Pro Ultimate. (Why I have these models, why I have all three of them, is a long story involving a new product introduction crunch before a trade show, and really isn't relevant here. But I will point out that I have these for work purposes, involved in putting dinner on the table, not play.) My resin printer is an Anycubic Photon, which I waited a long time for...it's messy as heck to use, but the output is unbelievable. Why this isn't really that far off-topic here: A few weeks ago I received an HP 6205B power supply that had been banged around in shipment and those little fragile plastic meter frame mounts had broken. In about two hours I had designed replacements using OpenSCAD, and in two more hours I had printed them and the power supply was reassembled and running on the bench. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
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Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
I'll go with "yes they are" and "no they aren't".? Construction wise you get various levels of "good", size wise, generally, it depends on what you're making.
Firstly, read the reviews.
Secondly, after taking them with a grain of salt, generic is generally better, based on software, parts, and people who know what to fix.
3D printers are not a "drop in slot" type of technology.? Even if you had a "perfect" one, you'd still have to do tweaks based on what you're doing, printing materials, and perhaps software.
Can you, though, get decent results?? You have to define "decent" for several values of price and time.
My personal opinion is that a 3D printer can be a good thing, get the largest one you can afford.? Heated bed is needed, if you can get one with a dual head extruder.? It allows you to put transparent windows in cases for LEDs, or dual color inserts, if you like that kind of thing.
Make sure you know the difference in the materials (ABS, PLA, etc....) and what they're good for.? Understand the tradeoffs. It's not going to be an exact science here.? Technology is not there unless you spend 20,000 dollars or more for a different technology.
Oh, and yes, I *do* have at least one, and use them, mostly for cases and support fixtures.
Harvey
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On 9/1/2019 6:33 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote: I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
It seems these are more common over there than here in the States.
I don't know the relative merits of foil vs. heated.? As I don't buy f**k I am not aware of its expense? ;-)
What is PLA good for printing?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/1/2019 6:37 PM, Tam Hanna wrote: Hello,
my Exwife and I bought a RenkForce RF100 v2.
With a rebate Dorit got, but a four year stressless warranty, it cost us like 450USD carried out of the front door of the shop in Vienna. It works in a 12x12x12 cm size and treated us quite well.
Disadvantages:
a) the warranty requires return to THIS VERY shop of Conrad. We have another Conrad next door in Hungary, but it does not honor our warranty claim.
b) the print bed is not heated but uses a foil instead. This foil is pricey as fuck.
c) PLA only.
Tam
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 02. 0:33, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
Hello,
my Exwife and I bought a RenkForce RF100 v2.
With a rebate Dorit got, but a four year stressless warranty, it cost us like 450USD carried out of the front door of the shop in Vienna. It works in a 12x12x12 cm size and treated us quite well.
Disadvantages:
a) the warranty requires return to THIS VERY shop of Conrad. We have another Conrad next door in Hungary, but it does not honor our warranty claim.
b) the print bed is not heated but uses a foil instead. This foil is pricey as fuck.
c) PLA only.
Tam
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2019. 09. 02. 0:33, Peter Gottlieb wrote: I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote:
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
I am under the impression many 3D printers are cheap consumer junk. What would be a suitable one for more serious work, that doesn't cost a small fortune?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/1/2019 6:24 PM, Tam Hanna wrote: Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote:
Ken,
I have the same malady.? People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob.? They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Off topic regarding a chart recorder
Sorry to sound like a broken record...but get a 3D printer. Or hit up a makerspace, if you can handle the crowd which hangs out Western European ones at least.
With best regards
Tam HANNA
Enjoy electronics? Join 15k7 other followers by visiting the Crazy Electronics Lab at
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2019. 09. 01. 1:15, Burt K6OQK wrote: Ken,
I have the same malady. People give me fully functional carcasses missing, maybe, a knob. They tell me to take what I need and toss the rest.
Anyone have a knob for a ...
Burt, K6OQK
I really hope not to find a parts mule that can easily be repaired or I will have two of these things and be unwilling to hurt one to restore
the other - yea I¡¯m weird that way.
Regards,
Ken
|
Re: Chips for 5315A/B counter: 1820-2131 and 1820-2312
To my knowledge the HP3870 was a MK3870 clone.
Sent from kjo iPhone
|
Re: E3630A +20V Output Capacitor popped open
Well, the cue was in that picture: The white silk screen mark for where the minus side should have been. ?The Nichicon cap, with its 1995 vintage date code of H9546, had been inserted with the wrong polarity. ?That is indeed a valid reason to go pop (and I¡¯m surprised it kept working for so long).
Flux residue on the solder side was already a give-away that this cap had been ¡°serviced¡±. The slightly broken plastic wrap maybe also was a hint that this cap had had a previous life in a place where it had been secured with some glue.
I also used the opportunity to replace a 100 nF RIFA X2 cap near the mains power switch (20 mm lead distance). ?It had multiple cracks in the clear plastic, so one would predict it was already?counting down to releasing the smoke.
I didn¡¯t do the multi-turn pimp because the mounting of the original 3590S pots makes use of the fact that the original hardware (¡°A17¡± variant) is square. ?Would have had to hack the front panel plastic; no time for that now.
Just to remind us all: even nicely preserved hardware (came even with tamper-evident stickers with the name of the ebay seller ¡°nubicom¡± on them) might have a glaring service botch inside.
Gr¨¹?e, Carsten
On Aug 24, 2019, at 21:04, Carsten Bormann via Groups.Io <cabocabo@...> wrote:
|
Re: 4339 Adjustment software?
I've not either. No one popped up (sigh).
I tried...
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On 28-Aug-19 16:43, Dr. David Kirkby from Kirkby Microwave Ltd wrote: On Thu, 29 Aug 2019 at 00:33, Bruce Lane <kyrrin@...
<mailto:kyrrin@...>> wrote:
Fellow techies,
? ? ? ? I'm looking for the adjustment software for the 4339
high-resistance
meter. Anyone have a copy?
? ? ? ? Thanks much...
I would be interested if you find anything. I have sent two to Keysight.
Both were slightly out of soec on the 10 nA range, but neither could be
adjusted. The resistance measurements were actually all in spec.?
I don¡¯t have much luck with that meter.?
--
Dr. David Kirkby,
Kirkby Microwave Ltd,
drkirkby@... <mailto:drkirkby@...>
Telephone 01621-680100./ +44 1621 680100
Registered in England & Wales.
Company number 08914892.
Registered office:
Stokes Hall Lodge,
Burnham Rd,
Althorne,
Chelmsford,
Essex,
CM3 6DT,
United Kingdom
--
---
Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR
kyrrin (at) bluefeathertech dot com
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (Red Green)
|
Re: 8753A - Turns itself off - CRT HV-transformer?
Hi!
I have some 1349 displays from 8753 that I replaced with LCD. The tubes are weak but if you need the HV, maybe we can work out something. Let me know.
Jeff
In a message dated 9/1/2019 3:57:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, ulf_r_k@... writes:
Hello.
I have an old 8753A VNA (green monochrome display) that turns itself
off after a few minutes of operation. I guess it is an overcurrent sensor that is triggered.
The CRT goes black with a vanishing dot. The fan stops working.
It tries to restart but I quickly go for the power switch.
I am not alone with this problem. A friend have an 8753A that also
exhibits this behavior.
According to him, it is likely that it is the same kind of problem
that has plagued many Tektronix HV transformers: Increased
power dissipation in the transformer as a result of moisture
in the potted winding. I have not yet dissassembled the
monitor unit to see if the HV transformer has the same brown
epoxy as Tek used.
There is a known issue with the low voltage regulators
which needs a resoldering of the series pass transistors
and I have done this some time ago. Everything checks out fine.
Since the instrument is quite old and I use it
with a one-way bridge not having been able to find an S-parameter set
for it, I do not see eny economy in purchasing an LCD replacement.
Anyone else who has experienced this and found the cause?
Cheers
Ulf Kylenfall
SM6GXV
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Dave McGuire
Bruce Lane