Re: 5342A: blown sampler?
Hi Tobias Check out?http://www.azurelectronics.com/Repair%20HP%205342A%20Microwave%20Frequency.htm as it may help. Regards Steve
On ?Monday?, ?October? ?16?, ?2017? ?08?:?56?:?32? ?AM? ?BST, Tobias Pluess tobias.pluess@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
?
Hi all,
one of my other projects I'm working on is a 5342A which does not count on the high frequency input.
I checked the sampler according to the service manual. I used a 34401A for the resistance meausrement and got 22k in forward bias and >3M in reverse bias. This is quite different from the values stated in the service manual; however, when I look at the schematic,
I think it should be possible to test the sampler with the diode test function. I did that, and I found out that in forward bias, I have approx. 0.4 volts, and reverse bias is open. So it looks like a pretty nice diode. However I cannot compare to other samplers,
and the service manual also tells that the resistance measured can vary greatly if not exact 1mA measuring current is used.
Does that sampler look good to you guys, or is it probably broken? because if it is broken I think it makes no sense to invest additional time to fix things.
Tobias, HB9FSX
|
Re: 8901B Power level zeroisation
Ok, so that worked, but what does percent mean for FM?? kHz deviation would be more useful.
Peter
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Show quoted text
On 10/6/2017 9:25 AM, Dennis Czelusniak czelusniakd@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
E1 is invalid key sequence if calibration is pressed while not in AM or FM.
8480 series sensors work with your unit, high priced 11722A not required.
If you have option 10, connect calibrator output to input, select AM, push
calibrate and wait, takes about 20 seconds, do the same with FM, display
reading will be 99.0 to 101.0%
Dennis
--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 10/6/17, matt.ames7bc@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] 8901B Power level zeroisation
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Date: Friday, October 6, 2017, 2:57 AM
Hi all,
I have an 8901B here that I use to
measure power with, using the internal power detector and
*not* the fancy external 11722A sensor.
When I have nothing connected to the
input, and I press the zero key, I get an Error
21.
Does anyone know what I am doing wrong,
and how to zero the internal power level
sensor?
Cheers,
Matt
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Be careful of using IPA to clean instruments. I had experienced
pretty much no problems using IPA until I accidentally hit the
leftmost frequency display wheel on my HP 8601A. The IPA dissolved
the white lettering on the wheel.
DaveD
On 10/16/2017 3:24 PM, `Richard Knoppow
dickburk@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
???
?????? Liquid dishwahing detergent like
Dawn is safe for nearly everything. You have to test
paint. Use a cotton swab somewhere where a mark won't
show. Naphtha is safe for many paints but not all,
isopropyl alcohol is fairly safe. Solvents like acetone,
xylene, etc are almost always going to attack paint. MEK
will attack about everything. Watch out for household
spray cleaners, some seem benign but are not. Again test
in a small place.
?????? Kerosene is a fairly mild solvent and may work on
residue from labels. Its a good degreaser.
>>???
???You have not said what equipment you want to clean.
>> It does make a difference.???
I want to
clean 8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network
Analyzer display and I/F sections, and the
S-Parameter test set, and a 8566B spectrum
analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C
panel is plastic, others are not, want to make sure
whatever I use is going to eat the paint.
Thanks,
Calvin
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
Harrison 6367A??0-36vdc, 0-10A, 110 vac input, $50 plus shipping:
How much does it weigh?? Can you ship USPS?
?
Hi, I'm having trouble lifting heavy things now (surgery on both rotator cuffs), and the son will soon complete his Computer Engineering degree, move away, and then I'll try to move these and be scolded (again) by the surgeon. Let me know if you want photos. All work, unless noted.
I realize the shipping costs for the heavy things make them less attractive, but trying here first. Located in central Fla.? Bring a chain saw.....
Thanks and 73 Frank Hughes KJ4OLL
HP 6521A 0-1kv DC, 0-200ma, 110vac input $100 plus shipping HP 6268B 0-40vdc, 0-30A, 240vac input $250 plus shipping Harrison 6267A, 0-36vdc, 0-10A, 110 vac input, amp meter does not work. $50 plus shipping Harrison 6367A??0-36vdc, 0-10A, 110 vac input, $50 plus shipping HP 6434B 0-40vdc, 0-25A, 110 vac input $150 plus shipping HP 6237B, +18vdc @ 1A, + 20 VDC @ .5A, -20VDC @ .5A, 110vac input, $50 plus shipping HP 6289A, 0-40vdc, 1.5A, 110vac input $50 plus shipping HP 230B RF power amplifier, 10mhz-500mhz, 110vac input $150 plus shipping HP 334A Distortion Analyzer, 110vac input, $125.00, plus shipping HP 3400A RMS voltmeter, 110vac input, $50 plus shipping HP 11710B Down Converter, 110vac input, $100 plus shipping Fluke 313A Voltage Calibrator, 0-50vcd, 0-2A, 110vac input, needs calibration, $75, plus shipping
?
|
Re: How to clean NiCd batt leak residue
Hi Calvin
The blueish crud is most likely highly alkali potassium salts, mechanically remove as much as possible then neutralise with white wine vinegar. Wash away any residue with distilled or deionised water and dry the surface. The residue is very corrosive to aluminium, do not delay.
73 George G6HIG
________________________________________
From: hp_agilent_equipment@... <hp_agilent_equipment@...> on behalf of guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: 16 October 2017 22:42
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] How to clean NiCd batt leak residue
Hi there,
When I opened up my 8672A synthesized CW generator, I found the NiCad batt pack was leaking. It was clean few years back. I removed it immediately but it left blueish and sort of oily film like residue on the aluminum housing wall.
What is the best way to clean the damn leaky NiCad residue off the aluminum?
Thanks,
Calvin
|
Re: 3585B Spectrum Analyzer
On 10/16/2017 04:39 PM, ve3poa@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: So far I've removed all the boards I could that were relatively easy.? I
have not touched the ones that are under a metal panel identified as A
and then a number. A31 or A32 for example.
I'm no longer getting the several beeps sequence as before so something
has changed. Noticed after examining the power supple boards. However
the alphanumerics still do not display and the flashing dot on the
screen remains.
No burnt components were noticed when examining the boards or even a
hint that something was askew.
So, on to the next phase but that will be tomorrow. Hey Peter, just a random data point here, from my own experience. I picked up a 3585A awhile back that seemed to be a basket case. Display problems, sweep control problems, pretty much everything seemed broken. It was very cheap, and I had the service manual, so I was up for the challenge. I spent hours troubleshooting it, and eventually found that nearly all of its problems were due to poorly-seated boards. The only other issue was a blown fuse in the display section. Now, conventional wisdom says "something caused that fuse to blow", but the documentation simply states that if it's blown, just replace it. It seems that fuse was just a bit under-specified, and they knew it. Anyway, after some quality time with some DeOxit gold wipes on the card-edge connectors, the analyzer is rock solid. There are a LOT of card-edge connectors in that analyzer, and they're getting old by now...you might want to take a look in that direction. -Dave -- Dave McGuire, AK4HZ New Kensington, PA
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
I use the citrus based Goo Gone to remove most labels. The citrus oil is very thin, and it evaporates. I have even used ot to remove price tags from paperback books. A few drops on a cotton ball, and let it sit for a few minutes to soften the adhesive, then carefully peel off the label. The older the label, the longer it needs to soak. As far as books or other printed mater, don't rub the surface, or you can remove the ink. I have used over a half gallon of it, so far. I also use it to remove inventory labels from surplus reels of SMD components, to expose the EM labels.
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: "guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...>
Sent: Oct 16, 2017 1:39 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?
I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin
Michael A. Terrell
|
How to clean NiCd batt leak residue
Hi there,
When I opened up my 8672A synthesized CW generator, I found the NiCad batt pack was leaking. It was clean few years back. I removed it immediately but it left blueish and sort of oily film like residue on the aluminum housing wall.?
What is the best way to clean the damn leaky NiCad residue off the aluminum?
Thanks, Calvin
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
?????? Liquid dishwahing detergent like Dawn is safe for
nearly everything. You have to test paint. Use a cotton swab
somewhere where a mark won't show. Naphtha is safe for many paints
but not all, isopropyl alcohol is fairly safe. Solvents like
acetone, xylene, etc are almost always going to attack paint. MEK
will attack about everything. Watch out for household spray
cleaners, some seem benign but are not. Again test in a small
place.
?????? Kerosene is a fairly mild solvent and may work on residue from
labels. Its a good degreaser.
>>??? ???You have not said what equipment
you want to
clean. >> It does make a difference.???
I want to clean
8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network Analyzer
display and I/F sections, and the S-Parameter test set, and
a 8566B spectrum analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C panel
is plastic, others are not, want to make sure whatever I use
is going to eat the paint.
Thanks,
Calvin
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
>>? ?You have not said what equipment you want to
clean. >> It does make a difference.?
I want to clean 8350B/83592B sweep source, 8510 Vector Network Analyzer display and I/F sections, and the S-Parameter test set, and a 8566B spectrum analyzer(RF and Display).
The 8510C panel is plastic, others are not, want to make sure whatever I use is going to eat the paint.
Thanks, Calvin
|
Hello,
no problem. If you ever change your mind let me know
With best regards
Tam Hanna
---
NEW: Enjoy electronics? Like seeing oscilloscopes get repaired? Please subscribe to my new YouTube channel ->
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Show quoted text
?
Hi Tam,
No, thank you.
Frank
|
Does anyone have the pinout for the 5086-7267 YIG oscillator handy?
My google-fu seems to be weak today.
Thanks,
-Dave
--
Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
New Kensington, PA
|
Re: 3585B Spectrum Analyzer
So far I've removed all the boards I could that were relatively easy.? I have not touched the ones that are under a metal panel identified as A and then a number. A31 or A32 for example.
I'm no longer getting the several beeps sequence as before so something has changed. Noticed after examining the power supple boards. However the alphanumerics still do not display and the flashing dot on the screen remains.
No burnt components were noticed when examining the boards or even a hint that something was askew.
So, on to the next phase but that will be tomorrow.
thanks, Peter
ve3poa?
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
?????? You have not said what equipment you want to
clean. It does make a difference. I have detailed the method of
washing employed at the -hp- service center a great many years ago
but this was used on what are now antiques. I will repeat it for
any interested. We used liquid dishwashing detergent diluted in
warm water in a paint spray gun.
?????? For the residue of cal tags and property tags WD-40 works
pretty well as does hand cleaner. Naphtha may work and usually
does not attack paint. Ronsonol is pretty pure and does not leave
a residue, I use it for cleaning camera shutters but canned
naphtha is cheaper and probably works as well. I would be careful
of the "all purpose" solvents now sold to replace naphtha, MEK,
acetone, etc. It really can't and may attack some items naphtha
does not.
?????? If you clean a chassis by spraying and rinsing it really must
be baked out. We used a ventilated electric oven at 130F for at
least two days and I preferred to let things cook for longer if
possible.??? Make sure to remove any parts that are water or heat
sensitive.
On 10/16/2017 12:37 PM, Daun Yeagley
daun@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
I find that Ronson lighter
fluid, which is just naptha works very well.??? This includes not
only label goo, but a wide range of "dirt".??? It's mild and doesn't
hurt plastics (at least not any that I've come across).??? I keep it
right there on my bench and use it for most cleaning jobs,
including also flux removal.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
???
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work
very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great
again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from
using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just???
use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the
surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality
horse hair brush would work better????
???
???I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up
moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front
panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but
don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin???
--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@...
WB6KBL
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
I find that Ronson lighter fluid, which is just naptha works very
well.? This includes not only label goo, but a wide range of
"dirt".? It's mild and doesn't hurt plastics (at least not any that
I've come across).? I keep it right there on my bench and use it for
most cleaning jobs, including also flux removal.
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work
very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great
again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away
from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would
just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off
the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high
quality horse hair brush would work better??
?
?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick
up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front
panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone
but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of
oily.
Thanks again!
Calvin?
|
Hi Tam, No, thank you. Frank
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
The only thing I'd wash with water and soap is the front panel itself (completely removed from the instrument, and any pcbs or wiring harnesses removed from it), any knobs once removed from the pots, and possibly the rubberized keyboard membrane (if applicable) after removed from the backing pcb. They come out like brand new using hot-ish water, manual dishwashing soap (palmolive, dawn, etc), and if necessary an old toothbrush or larger scrub brush (with very soft bristles). For anything else, I'd just use compressed air to remove as much dust as possible and stop there.
On Mon, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:39 AM, guancalvin@... [hp_agilent_equipment] <hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?? ? ?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again! Calvin?
|
Re: YIG device failure modes
Tobias,
The main coil is for pretune -- which brings the center frequency of the YTO to the YTO PLL's capturing range which is usually +/- 20~30mhz around the CF. The FM coil is used to perform the phase locking. HP also feeds LF from the loop filter to the main coil path to help DC tracking and pretune.
I would worry more about the FM coil's tuning sensitivity and modulation bandwidth which have great effects on the closed loop dynamic. The tuning sensitivity is easy to measure yourself but the modulation bandwidth is not. The idea is to make sure the FM bandwidth (which translates to a pole in the open loop transfer function), is 10 times higher than the PLL's open loop bandwidth.
Good luck! Calvin ---In hp_agilent_equipment@..., <tobias.pluess@...> wrote :
Jeff, re-fitting a different YIG was an option which I was thinking about when I repaired my 8341A sweeper. The YIG is a 5086-7323 which operates from 2.3 to 7GHz and tuning coil sensitivity is 24mA/GHz. However, I wonder how accurate those 24mA/GHz are. For
instance, if I fitted another YIG with 20mA/GHz, would that work as well? the YO driver used can be calibrated for offset and gain... Have you ever fitted a replacement YIG? What about those SYTMs HP has used sometimes (switchable YIG tuned multiplier)? is there any replacement? And do you have an idea what the reason could be for the semiconductor to fail? assuming the operating voltages were ok, is there some chemical aging process or so which destroys the semiconductor some day? because there are instruments which are 30 yrs
old and still working, but the older they get the more difficult it will be to find spare parts I guess; if the YIG fails and cannot be replaced, the whole instrument is nothing more than a really heavy paperweight....
Tobias HB9FSX
-------- Original message -------- From: "kmec@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" <hp_agilent_equipment@...> Date: 10/16/17 06:01 (GMT+01:00) To: hp_agilent_equipment@... Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] YIG device failure modes
?I have tested several hundred YIG devices over my career. (Have drawers full of them, its a sickness)? I have seen more misaligned YIG support rods or bad oscillator semiconductors than I have seen bad coils. ? Sometimes the coil connection fails at the solder point due to wire wrap/crimp failure and current heating the joint, eventually it opens, have fixed three like this. Some model YIGs have high coil current and if poorly cooled/heatsunk, the enamel insulation
seems to fail and create a sorted coil. Only have seen one like this, but opened it up and figured out the failure. ? Other times, the polystyrene rod that holds the YIG sphere warps & twists over time from heat?& general plasticizer failure?and misaligns the magnetic axis of the sphere with the field, pretty tough to fix this, major cause of holes and high end tailing
off. And, of course, when the semiconductor device fails (Gunn diode in older X band and up, Bipolar thru 12 GHz for old ones, FET now), you are done. ? It is possible to re-fit different YIGs into various pieces of gear, but re-scaling the drivers to the right coil sensitivities can be challenging/time-consuming. ? The worst thing to deal with is the wideband? YIG tuned multipliers. Never had much luck bringing these back to life once they go south. ? YMMV Jeff Kruth WA3ZKR ? In a message dated 10/15/2017 1:40:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, hp_agilent_equipment@... writes: ?Hi guys. Over the years I have read a lot about yigs going bad specifically their coils seem to go bad. Is there anything that can be done pre-emptively to secure their longevity? And what exactly happens? Do the coils open due to excessive
current (like a fuse?) I know there is an issue where the sphere sometimes moves and gets located incorrectly IIRC. I don’t know what causes that, perhaps excessive force? But I am interested in the coil issue. I have no yig issues at the moment, which seems
like a good time to try to prevent it? Eugene W2HX
|
Re: Plan to deep cleaning my gear
Thank a lot for all your inputs guys! My instruments work very well for their age. I just wanted to make them great again:)
After reading your posts, I figured I will stay away from using any liquid or solvent for PCB cleaning. I would just? use electronics grade gas duster to blow dust off the surface of the boards. Or a small vacuum and a high quality horse hair brush would work better?? ? ?I was under impression that excessive dust would pick up moisture that would damage my equipments. Is that true?
For some very old and dry sticker residue on the front panel, how should I safely remove them? I have Goo Gone but don't know if it's safe for instrument. It's kind of oily.
Thanks again! Calvin?
|
Re: Question about HP3586B and measuring Power.
?
The 3596 was used to measure carrier levels in a multiplexed
system at 75 ohms. The 75 ohm input would be used to terminate a 75 ohm output
directly. The 10k input would have been used to bridge a terminated output to
make the same measurement. One place this would be done would be in a analog
multichannel SSB microwave baseband system.
?
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2017 1:20
PM
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Question
about HP3586B and measuring Power.
?
One of the inputs on the 3596B is a 75ohm, another is a 10k
ohm//50pf.
?I can understand with a Voltage across a 75 ohm resistor
how? to get
a power reading. What happens when you switch the unit to
10k ohms.
Does it start measuring Voltage across a 10k, and do that
calculation.
?The question arose when as? practice for
OpenOffice I thought I'd calculate how the power reading
misbehaves, if I
terminate the input with 50 ohms and measure a fixed voltage from 1MHz to
32MHz.
?The 50pf throws a changing impedance in the mix.
In
OpenOffice I combined 50ohms, 10k ohms and the 50pf cap impedance to get a
total impedance over the frequency span.
Then when I went to calculate
power, I didn't know where the machine would be referenced.
?Please
note, my concern is not really to do the measurement this way is is just an
exercise to practice OpenOffice and draw a graph of the error.
|
Dave McGuire
Michael A. Terrell