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Yeah - I was wondering on what planet Zinc-Carbon batteries didn't leak. That's acidic chemistry, and alkalines when they finally came along were a god-send because the alkaline leakage was so much

That is exactly what I have done. Zero leakage even after those ultimate lithiums are flat dead. Peter

I don't know whether it's a manufacturing difference but down here in Australia my experience has been that Duracells are not as bad as some of the USA based commenters have described. The worst

I now keep 9 VDC, AA and AAA cells separately, and next to, devices that need them. My Kestrel was repairable using vinegar. My Garmin was not, but the iPhone fills that need. My other "toys",

From what I read many years ago, there used to be a trace amount of Mercury in Alkaline cells, and they didn't leak. It was after environmentalists demanded its removal that the leaks started.

Douglas Adams strikes again! Excellent.

Harbor Freight sells both types. Thse days Caron Zic are called 'Heavy Duty'. I have used the HF alkaline for years without any problems, but I'll have to switch now that I no longer drive.

I disagree about zinc-carbon batteries not leaking. They certainly can leak. I think they are still made. The best cells for long term low demand service are Mercury cells, alas a thing of the past

My experience goes back to when Duracell was a trade-mark of Mallory. At that time they didn't leak and had the longest life of any alkaline cell. Things changed when the brand was sold. I have not

Are you sure those HF batteries are alkaline and not zinc-carbon? Zinc-carbon batteries won't leak, but they have less capacity than alkalines do. They tend to be the batteries that come with remote

I stopped using Duracell & Energizer batteries some time ago. The Duracells always leaked with that corrosive crusty white powder. The energizers leaked with a clear corrosive liquid that was much

I've been getting marketing emails from Keysight, and never really found them useful. I found numerous threads on whether or not Keysight would support their equipment, to whom, and when. It came to

Bill, Since the driver is in saturation, Vce is almost 0V then it seems you may have a wiring problem. Check the voltage across R40. That should be about 22-24VDC. If not check the voltage at C6 which

yes. but there is a lot of bs and confusion... online... about whether the date code (on the cell) is the 'expiry date' or the 'manufactured date' ... so when does the 12 years start? Anyway... AFAICT

Jinxie, that is not a good idea. The input attenuator setting is coordinated with various gain stages in the IF to give an accurate amplitude reading regardless of attenuator setting. This is the

My current personal experience: - Duracells will always leak. - Energizers will leak 50% of the time during normal lifetime inside hp calculators such as HP71B, flashlights and such, ? so I check

Duracell / Duraleak has been owned by Warren Buffett since 2014, or so. Before that Procter & Gamble made sure the quality went way down. About a year ago, I had enough of seeing damaged appliances,

Mike, I now get a rather high impedance at the output of the regulator, think it was ~50k. The previous issue was in fact a physical short on A5 board (lead clipping...) Currently, things look as

Duracell, especially AA size but others too, had a serious problem. They seem to have cured that, now have a 12 year guarantee. I have recently bought Duracell and Kirkland which are the same and have