I've been working on this problem 8753B CPU card for a few months now with very limited results. The original problem was no video, which I tracked down to a bad PAL 16R1 chip, replacing that got me a screen with random lines and various flashing characters. I thought that problem was bad DRAM so I replaced them, still no change. Watching the status lights while changing the position of the A9CC jumper and pressing the "PRESET" button I was able to get it to occasionally start to work, but not all the time.
The short story is I can now get it to run every time by following this procedure; turn the unit on with the A9CC jumper in the "NORMAL" position, then move the jumper to the center position and press "PRESET", then move the jumper to the next position to the right and press "PRESET". This will display "DRAM Passed" on the screen, then move the jumper back to the "NORMAL" position and press "PRESET", at which time the unit will start up and operate normally as long as power is applied.
Any change in that sequence and it will not operate. I've swapped the PROM's into a working board and they work fine.
Anyone have any idea what is going on with this?
Chuck
--
See Early TV at:
www.myvintagetv.com
|
John, ? I don¡¯t know of any source of the Synertec EPROM data.? The person I helped with this problem in 2013 ultimately removed his chips and installed the two chips referred to in the link below.? IIRC, one of the problems with the ¡®direct replacement¡¯ approach was finding chips that were, in fact, direct pin for pin compatible. ? With the ¡®two chip¡¯ approach, you wind up with a board that is ¡®original¡¯, sort of, since it was one of the ¡®original options¡¯ for the unit.? And, it is relatively straight forward, not requiring building any additional circuitry, with issues of ¡®timing¡¯, etc. ?
? Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help. ? Good luck. ? Joe ?
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Show quoted text
From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 11:34 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: HP 3325A What ROMS?? ? Sorry to connect up to this thread. tried to make a new one but Yahoo no
longer recognizes my id and wont let me post
new thread
Been following the 3325A threads as I think I have a ROM issue with
mine, but have looked at all the referenced
threads and cant find mine there
My printed manuals including the Hp cross references are currently
under a 4 ft pile of manuals etc after a 6 shelved cheap bookshelf
collapsed and threw everything on the floor ... had been Ok for the last
3 years, but gave up under the weight last night, so apologies for
asking stuff I may have been able to find otherwise... its over 40Deg C
in there at the moment as were having a continual heatwave her in West
Australia
and I cant even breath properly in that room.right now
3325A S/N 1748A03039 OPTION 1 Bought at local auction 5 years ago
4 X ROMS soldered in Probably Synertec (Large square "S")
U1
7941E
C51030
Hp No 1818-0702
U2
7932E
C51031
Hp No 1818 -0703
U3
8007E
C51032
Hp No 1818 -0704
U4
7952E
C51243
Hp No 1818-9705
The "5" after the C is definitely a Five, not a Y
Q: can you point me to where I can find mod info for these chips
replacements please?
Have downloaded ( start Jun 3rd 2013) 3325A collection as directed ,
but don't see anything relevant to my chip set there
Symptoms are: crazy randomized LED display constantly randomly repeating.
Previous work done:
Replaced On/Off switch
Replaced all ribbon interconnects with made up ones as originals
separated (All connections checked out OK ....big job)
Replaced a (wire wound!!) output resistor from a previous "repair" with
original HF type.
All PSU voltages correct with ripple within specs
Had been working fine until a few months ago
Thanks for your time
John
|
Re: Test Equipment where battery failure causes SERIOUS problems
The 859X series spectrum analyzers loose: band leveling offsets, attenuator corrections, and clock corrections if the memory battery dies. There is at least a procedure to copy these down from the operator interface so they can be reloaded in event of failure.?
-Kelly
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 2:02 AM, "Peter Hansen oz1lpr@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" wrote:
?
Hello David?I think the HP 8756 Scalar analyzer?Looses all the Channel calibration data if the battery is lost. This requires?programming through a HP computer with obsolete software. best regards Peter Hansen ?
To: hp_agilent_equipment@... From: hp_agilent_equipment@... Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2016 21:39:40 +0000 Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: Test Equipment where battery failure causes SERIOUS problems
?
|
If its any consolation,I have two 3325As in regular use. One has had this same fault since I owned it and the other appears to have developed the fault in th last five to ten weeks. I cannot verify the serial numbers at this stage as Im away from the lab at present. I have been following the thread with interest.
Pete
|
Re: Test Equipment where battery failure causes SERIOUS problems
Hello David?I think the HP 8756 Scalar analyzer?Looses all the Channel calibration data if the battery is lost. This requires?programming through a HP computer with obsolete software. best regards Peter Hansen ?
To: hp_agilent_equipment@... From: hp_agilent_equipment@... Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2016 21:39:40 +0000 Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Re: Test Equipment where battery failure causes SERIOUS problems
?
|
Re: 8590E Video Display problem
I have noticed that many pieces of HP equipment have an electrolytic
capacitor that goes from the wiper of the intensity pot to ground.
The purpose of the cap is to cause the instrument to start with the
beam forced off. This protects the phosphor during those moments
while the power supplies are coming up to voltage, and various
amplifiers may be operating in out of bounds conditions.
When the capacitor becomes leaky, it can draw enough current that it
keeps the intensity turned off. The condition improves somewhat as
the instrument warms up and the capacitor charges.
-Chuck Harris
Artek Manuals manuals@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
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On 2/16/2016 5:27 PM, pbbob426@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
I have an HP 8590E in which there is no video on initial power up. But
consistently, if I shut the 8590E down anytime after about 2 minutes and
turn it again, the display is perfect - until the next cold start.
Anyone have any ideas what may be causing this?
Bad cap somewhere...holding an address line down on a cold start ...then
on a warm start the cap is feeling better and lets the address line come
up faster
|
Sorry to connect up to this thread. tried to make a new one but Yahoo no longer recognizes my id and wont let me post
new thread
Been following the 3325A threads as I think I have a ROM issue with mine, but have looked at all the referenced
threads and cant find mine there
My printed manuals including the Hp cross references are currently under a 4 ft pile of manuals etc after a 6 shelved cheap bookshelf collapsed and threw everything on the floor ... had been Ok for the last 3 years, but gave up under the weight last night, so apologies for asking stuff I may have been able to find otherwise... its over 40Deg C in there at the moment as were having a continual heatwave her in West Australia
and I cant even breath properly in that room.right now
3325A S/N 1748A03039 OPTION 1 Bought at local auction 5 years ago
4 X ROMS soldered in Probably Synertec (Large square "S")
U1
7941E
C51030
Hp No 1818-0702
U2
7932E
C51031
Hp No 1818 -0703
U3
8007E
C51032
Hp No 1818 -0704
U4
7952E
C51243
Hp No 1818-9705
The "5" after the C is definitely a Five, not a Y
Q: can you point me to where I can find mod info for these chips replacements please?
Have downloaded ( start Jun 3rd 2013) 3325A collection as directed , but don't see anything relevant to my chip set there
Symptoms are: crazy randomized LED display constantly randomly repeating.
Previous work done:
Replaced On/Off switch
Replaced all ribbon interconnects with made up ones as originals separated (All connections checked out OK ....big job)
Replaced a (wire wound!!) output resistor from a previous "repair" with original HF type.
All PSU voltages correct with ripple within specs
Had been working fine until a few months ago
Thanks for your time
John
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
I read somewhere that heat is used to soften Cyanoacrylate and alcohol is used to dissolve it so that you can separate the two pieces.
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Show quoted text
On 2016-Feb-16 10:11 PM, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote: I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
|
Re: HP8593A Power Supply repair
Hi Ted,
Hand made diagrams sent to your personal Email.
Wish you success.
Regards/Roumen
LZ3RV
Sofia, Bulgaria
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
It melts around 275 deg +/-
Pete wa2odo
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
?
Indium solder, haven't heard of that in a while!? I shall try and find some.?
Peter
?
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
On Feb 16, 2016 10:12 PM, "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Indium solder, haven't heard of that in a while! ?I shall try and find some.?
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2016, at 10:37 PM, PeteM pmanfre@... [hp_agilent_equipment] < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
On Feb 16, 2016 10:12 PM, "Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment]" < hp_agilent_equipment@...> wrote:
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Try some indium solder and if necessary a needle heated with a soldering iron. I have repaired accutron coils with it as well as other watch coils.
Pete
¡ sent from Android on 4G¡
?
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it
started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
>
> Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for
> repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed
> circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back
> before repairing.
> Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with
> a hot air station.
>
> Just an idea,
> Ignacio
>
>
>
> El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@...
> [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
>>
>> I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
>> tackled something like it before.
>>
>> I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
>> display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main
>> board.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
>> attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
>> several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
>> apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
>> gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
>> under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
>> wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
>> under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
>> like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
>> looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
>> wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
>> some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
>>
>> So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
>> Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
>> an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>
> Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y
> protegido por Avast.
> <>
>
>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
I may do that. Tried the hot air, too crude even with a very small tip, and it started softening the glue I used to keep everything stable.
Peter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 2/16/2016 9:22 PM, EB4APL eb4apl@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it for repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for repairing printed circuit boards. probably you need to glue the problem area to a stiff back before repairing.
Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder paste with a hot air station.
Just an idea,
Ignacio
El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y protegido por Avast.
www.avast.com <>
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Hi Peter
Boy, I¡¯d like to know the same thing! One of the things I tried (unsuccessfully) not too long ago was to solder a broken wire on a coil of an Accutron (tuning fork) watch. I wasn¡¯t successful, and I know firsthand how that solder past looks under the microscope!
It¡¯s definitely NOT EASY!
Daun
Daun E. Yeagley, II, N8ASB
From: hp_agilent_equipment@... [mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 9:09 PM
To: hp_agilent_equipment@...
Subject: [hp_agilent_equipment] Soldering recommendation
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Re: Soldering recommendation
Why don't you try with silver conductive paint? Auto shops use it
for repairing rear window heaters and some are advertised for
repairing printed circuit boards. probably you need to glue the
problem area to a stiff back before repairing.
Or if the flex circuit is heath resistant you could use the solder
paste with a hot air station.
Just an idea,
Ignacio
El 17/02/2016 a las 3:09, Peter
Gottlieb hpnpilot@... [hp_agilent_equipment] escribi¨®:
?
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for
advice from someone who's
tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and
unobtainable custom LCD
display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a
connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and
where the flex circuit
attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a
couple of flexes and
several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4
mils wide, spaced 4 mils
apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new
X-acto knife and VERY
gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the
broken traces. I secured
under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need
to solder perhaps a
wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount
paste (looks like BBs
under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my
soldering tip looks
like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I
sharpened it to what
looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin
looks rounded. #30
wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect
wire strands from
some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on
my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on
after several tries.
Has anyone who has successfully done something this have
any pointers? Is there
an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should
or shouldn't do?
Peter
Este correo electr¨®nico se ha enviado desde un equipo libre de virus y protegido por Avast.
|
|
Re: HP DVM / DMM technological history
Also the 3421A Data Acquisition Unit has voltage input terminals on the front panel IIRC.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2016, at 2:39 PM, Jeremy Nichols jn6wfo@... [hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
Don't forget the 5265A Digital Voltmeter plug-in for the 5245-series counters!
Jeremy
N6WFO
|
I have a challenging soldering job and am looking for advice from someone who's tackled something like it before.
I have a modern high-end device which has a complex and unobtainable custom LCD display. This display connects via a flex circuit to a connector on the main board.
Unfortunately, the mechanical design is not great and where the flex circuit attaches to the LCD glass there is no strain relief so a couple of flexes and several traces broke. These traces are approximately 4 mils wide, spaced 4 mils apart. Under a stereo microscope I was able, using a new X-acto knife and VERY gently, scrape off the insulation on each side of the broken traces. I secured under the movable part with some cyanoacrilate. I now need to solder perhaps a wire across the broken traces. Using some surface mount paste (looks like BBs under the microscope) I managed to tin the traces but my soldering tip looks like I'm using a copper roofing iron, and that's after I sharpened it to what looked like a super fine point. Heck, at 40X even a pin looks rounded. #30 wirewrap wire is far too large but I did find some perfect wire strands from some superflex silicone RC wire. It reads 3.5 mils dia on my micrometer.
So, this seems like a tough job but I did get one piece on after several tries. Has anyone who has successfully done something this have any pointers? Is there an iron meant for this kind of micro work? Things I should or shouldn't do?
Peter
|
Service Training Mamual for HP 8566 / 8568
Would anyone have any interest in my Service Training manual for the HP 8566A/B and 8568A/B?
This is NOT the service guide but rather a thick binder covering the circuit description with some schematics. This book was used during my service training at a two-week seminar at HP's Rohnert Park facility for these models.?
Please contact me off-list if interested.
$ 50 + $ 20 shipping
Steve
|
Re: HP DVM / DMM technological history
Don't forget the 5265A Digital Voltmeter plug-in for the 5245-series
counters!
Jeremy
N6WFO
On 2/16/2016 6:00 AM, d.garrido@...
[hp_agilent_equipment] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hello All,
I am doing a bit of research to accomplish a
comprehensive understanding of the DVM / DMM technology
from the late fifties and early sixties into the 90's.
?I have come up with what I think is a list that covers
the models I should be looking into. ?Are there any more
digital meters that should be added?
405
2401
2402
3435
3440
3450
3455
3456
3460
3465
3490
Cheers,
David
|
Re: HP8593A Power Supply repair
see msg# 67510 in the group messages..
Regards John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 17-Feb-16 5:00:31 AM, newsong777@... [hp_agilent_equipment] (hp_agilent_equipment@...) wrote:
Roumen, I would like to have a copy of the power supply schematics if it is possible. My HP8591A has the low 5.2 volt supply problem that others have mentioned. I am very experienced in this type of electronics and I would like to find a solution that is lasting and that I can share with others.
We have a family friend in Burgas and relatives in Russia, we are in the US.
Ted
Posted by: newsong777@...
Reply via web post[Links to ]
???
Reply to sender [Links to mailto:newsong777@...?subject=Re%3A%20HP8593A%20Power%20Supply%20repair]
???
Reply to group [Links to mailto:hp_agilent_equipment@...?subject=Re%3A%20HP8593A%20Power%20Supply%20repair]
???
|
Pete_G4GJL
Jeremy Nichols