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Make sure the wire hasn't overheated, first. If it has, the lug needs to be replaced, and the damaged end of the wire trimmed off.

Just tighten the screw a bit if its loose.

Was it working before and only now started to exhibit a problem? Have checked the current limit settings/controls? Have you downloaded the manual? Sent from my iThing; please forgive the typos and

Reneé, thank you for the input from someone who has “been there.” -- Jeremy Nichols Sent from my iPad 6.

a lot of times the spec is listed on the label of breaker, sometimes in the panel for the lugs like for mains entrance. I have used standard torque wrenchs w/ proper driver. Here in the USA one more

Just to add a misc piece of info on these connectors. Keysight parts search has a nice photo of the receptacle:

Anyone have experience with one of these I cant seem to get any amperage out of mine. Get volts fine, but not enough amps to light an LED

I do not know if there are published torque specifications for electrical outlet terminals. One would think they would exist somewhere but I’ve always used “tight enough” as my guide. wrote:

I had no idea about checking the torque on terminals. How do you check that? Just a VDE torque screwdriver? Any clue what the torque specifications are in Europe or Germany on breaker panels, wall

Hello, Posting my final setup in case anyone else comes across this thread with similar questions to the ones I had. Hopefully this is useful to someone. As previously discussed, I wanted a 19-inch

I am not sure what you are asking. As you know, the 8510 system uses a separate HPIB bus to control the interfaces on the bus including the test sets. If you want to do the automatic forward and

Should not a load of this size, in “continuous” [?] use, be hard wired? wrote:

Tightening connections: Especially in the case of aluminum wiring, which was popular for a few years, and no doubt still exists here and there. Jeremy N6WFO Jeremy Nichols Sent from my iPad 6.

230/240 VAC countries exist, with approximately equal power ratings. Go figure. Horses for courses -;) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko Raymond

I was walking by a 100A, three phase breaker box at work one day, and I could feel heat from about 18 inches away. It was at a cable TV headend, so we had to bring in a team of electricians to replace

One thing that is not often thought about (or known) is the need to verify the breaker screws and main lugs are torqued to the correct specification. Copper and aluminum will both deform over time and

Its good to understand outlet ratings along with circuits and breakers. Massively loaded test benches tend to suck lots of power. I am careful with power loads and always have been. But also

I turned on my air conditioning one day, and heard what sounded like rain, in a bedroom. The 100A breaker was on fire. If I had gone out to turn it off at the meter, the house would have been on fire

So as recent experience shows, 18 - 26 amps max continuous load for months was a tad optimistic for this unknown brand Schuko wall socket, which subsequently proceeded to smolder, melt, and deform,

Hi Folks, I got hands on a? Agilent 33250A recently. It works fine in Remote, but no Display. I looking for a Display Section. Anyone on List got one for Sale ? I am in Toronto, Canada. Please