You can fairly easily pull a soldered can apart with torch heating. That's the way I used to do it before I got my flow-solder machine years ago. Don't do it until you've reached a point that you can decide there's nothing to lose by giving it a try.
If there are mounting features like threaded studs, take advantage of them and screw on some long spacers or other hardware, if available - this is the best way to pull on the end cap. If there are any plugs over the adjustment access holes, remove them. Clamp the can firmly, but not too much that it deforms it (takes practice) in a vise, with some cardboard wrapped around it for padding. The solder joint end should be upright, and well above the vise jaws - about half the can should be exposed. Put some big wads of painter's tape all over any connecting pins or sockets, etc, but tuck it down, well away from the soldered edges. Also put a couple layers of tape wrapped tightly around the can, maybe a cm or two below the solder zone. This will help stop solder from running down the outer surface, making cleanup easier.
Besides a propane torch, you'll want heavy gloves to protect from burns, and safety goggles to stop any flying solder, various pliers for grabbing and pulling, and some some sharp, strong prying tools like utility knife, putty knife, and small flat screwdrivers. Keep some heavy solder ready too, in case needed for re-wetting.
The rest is kind of instinctive, once you get started. Just heat it all around as evenly as possible, from the sides of the corners, quickly, until it starts to melt, then a little bit more. Keep the torch always going and ready to add heat, in one hand, and use the other to grab the end, by the attached hardware, or with a tool. If the melt is loose enough, and the can not too tight, the whole thing should pull straight up and out. If it's really tight despite having a good melt, you'll have to get trickier, and jam a sharp tool into the joint to pry it up, possibly at several points, until it breaks loose. Don't worry about deforming the can edge a little - it's easy to reshape it later. If the solder gets overcooked, add some fresh - it will make it slippery again.
This should all be done outdoors or with good ventilation, of course. For a typically-sized OCXO, the torching operation should take less than a couple of minutes. Don't skimp on the flame - you want to heat it fast and pull the guts ASAP. If it doesn't come out quickly, stop and let it all cool back down before taking another shot at it, while you contemplate new strategies.
Good luck.
Ed
