** Begin preachy statement:
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First things first, since there is a lot of misinformation floating around about the proper mating of APC7 connectors, I will start there. Before you mate an APC-7 connector, wipe the mating surfaces with a clean rag dipped in 99% isopropyl alcohol... cleanliness is paramount if you want repeatable measurements. When you mate an APC7 connector, one of the two connectors should have its outer collar turned until the center threaded sleeve is all the way exposed. Then holding the other connector (so that its insides cannot rotate), engage the threads on the sleeve, and tighten until finger snug. Do not under any circumstances allow the two connectors to rotate relative to each other! Over tightening the connector will cause the gold on the face where the two shields mate to swage out, making a tiny annular choke ring in the shield, destroying the RF characteristics of the connector. If the sharp ridges on the connector shell are cutting your fingers, it is too tight! Do not snug up the loose outer collar into the tight outer collar. Doing so will confuse you when it is time to unmate the connector, and can lead to operating with a loose connection. ** End preachy statement. The important RF goodies of an APC7 connector are designed to be field replaceable from the outside of the instrument. If you look at the face of the APC7 connector, you will see two drilled holes, diametrically opposed, on either side of the gold coaxial shield. The holes are placed there for engaging the pins on a spanner wrench used to tighten/loosen the APC7 connector to the chassis mounted part of the connector. Make sure that the disk they turn is not loose... it is probably ok, if you aren't seeing massive changes in reflection and loss when the connector is wiggled. And lastly, the chassis end of the connector is usually held to the chassis by a large threaded nut, just like most other RF connectors. The connector passes through a "D" shaped hole, which is why it won't turn, and the nut holds it tightly to the chassis. Sometimes, when the APC7 is feeding a stripline on a circuitboard, the chassis box is the other side of the connector, so in that case, the threads that the spanner wrench holes turn are all that holds the connector onto the chassis. A good source of replacement APC7 connector ends is a burned out APC7 type of attenuator... it is of zero value as an attenuator, but the APC7 connector ends can be removed with a spanner wrench, and used on something more important to you, such as a 8753D. -Chuck Harris fishtronics wrote: Sorta along the lines of the 8753D calibration discussion- can someone who knows |