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Re: 3457a on the way


 

Thanks Steve, I just did some testing with the Hamon divider in 0.1x (/10) configuration. I have to say..wow does that work well. I would say anyone up to maybe 300,000 count could certainly get good results from one. I followed the directions on this page: which someone here so kindly gave me the link to, applied 1.9975 volts in and did the divide by 2 config and calibrated, once I removed the parallel jumpers I got 199.75 mv. The Fluke 8050A is only rated @ 0.03% DC accuracy, so something like this is almost overkill. And it appears stable with 5% carbon film, yes I actually matched up to high accuracy 3 5% carbons..go figure. Got lucky I guess.

Thanks and have a Great New Year.

Jeff

On 12/31/2012 2:34 PM, Steve Krull wrote:

Jeff,

The history of the 3457A on the way to you doesn't seem unreasonable. If
it was built in the early to mid 90's it may have been calibrated
annually until 97, and a year later when it was due calibration again it
may have been replaced by a more accurate DVM, or used for non-critical
measurements not requiring traceable calibration, or put on a shelf and
not touched for some time. Maybe the owner decided 2012 was a good time
to retire or reduce inventory or upgrade to a 3458A and the e-place was
the way chosen to sell off the unit coming to you.

Cheers,

Steve

On 12/31/2012 2:45 PM, Jeff Machesky wrote:
I didn't know that's how the revisions numbers worked. So the one I have
on the way is 1991 revision. Interesting.

I do fully plan on sending the meter off to Agilent, assuming it doesn't
have any issues. I now am starting to question why a meter would be a
'91 revision and last calibrated in '97 and then sold on ebay in
2012. Hmmm.

As to the confidence check I figure even if I use some low temp co
resistors and trim them ever so slightly down to precision I might get
an hours worth of checks out of the design before it's off by any amount
I would care about. The nice part about the Hamon divider is it appears
to be about how well you match the resistors, not the absolute value.
You also appear to get an order of magnitude greater accuracy then your
original matching. I suspect I can get this pretty accurate. Perhaps a
couple uv very high impedance voltage follower to make it all more
stable. I'm testing the divider now with some resistors I've matched to
better then 0.01%. The temp-cos on them are horrible however. Good
enough for testing.

Thanks,

Jeff

On 12/31/2012 1:21 PM, Steve Krull wrote:
The battery looks like it is original, so it could theoretically be up
to 25 years old based on the oft-quoted adage that adding 60 to the
first two digits of the sn prefix gives the year of the revision the
unit was built to. It could be much newer if that revision was in
production for many years, as is more likely the case. 25 years seems a
long time for that generation of battery technology. It is quite
possible the battery was replaced as recently as 2004/2005, just before
I got the unit. If that's the case whoever replaced it did an excellent
job as it looks like it's never been touched.

Your confidence check sounds reasonable. It would be interesting to the
group to see how your results compare with the "as received" numbers if
you do decide to sent your unit to Agilent.

Steve K.

On 12/31/2012 11:44 AM, Jeff Machesky wrote:
Thanks for the information Steve. Hopefully mine will have the 3.6
volt
battery seeing as how it has the newer serial number prefix. How old
do you figure your battery is to still have that voltage ?

On another note I think I'll get a 3.000 volt reference from
voltagestandard.com and build up really carefully a 0.1x and 0.01x
Hamon
divider to check the 300mv and 30mv ranges. Just as confidence check
until I can get it in for calibration. I could in theory check the
30v and 300v ranges by using 0.1x and 0.01x against those voltages
adjusting until the division matches the 3.000v reference and then
checking the results. So for the lower voltages I would divide by 10
or 100 the precision reference and for anything above the reference I
would divide and adjust until it matches the reference and take the
remainder. Hope that all makes sense.

3.00v * 0.01 for 30mv
3.00v * 0.1 for 300mv
3.00v * 1 for 3.00v
adj 30v * 0.1 until equal to 3.00v
adj 300v * 0.01 until equal to 3.00v

Thanks,

Jeff

On 12/31/2012 10:20 AM, Steve Krull wrote:
Joe and all,

I just had a quick look inside my 3457A again. Mine has the 3.0 volt
lithium battery, SAFT LX-1634. Obsolete at Agilent, as is the newer
battery. Google was no help either. Mine measures 3.03 volts and
there's
no evidence of corrosion so that's good. I couldn't see a date
code on
it; probably on the underneath side. I've replaced batteries by
paralleling the existing connections with an appropriate power supply
and then unsoldering the old battery with an isolated-tip iron and
soldering in the new battery. I've also carefully soldered a new
battery
in parallel with the old and then clipped out the old one. No
problems
with lost data so far.

I'm not sure how the cal numbers increment. I'll have to
experiment with
that sometime. Right now I need to repair the 1349D display in my
8757A
so I can get on with a sweeper plug in project, so the
volt-nuttery is
on hold for awhile.

Happy New Year to all!

Steve

On 12/30/2012 5:34 PM, J. L. Trantham wrote:
Steve,

Thanks for the data. Mine is also 2703A prefix with REV?:6,0 and
CALNUM?:98. Not a multiple of 34. Would be interesting to see
what the
CALNUM increments by after an Agilent CAL.

I, too, need to look at the battery condition. I have not looked
at the
manual regarding replacing the battery. Has anyone done that without
losing
the CAL Constants?

Joe

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Subject: Re: [hp_agilent_equipment] 3457a on the way

It would be interesting to see if a newer rev is out there. My 3457A
is s.n.
prefix 2703, with rev 6,0 and option 0, CALNUM=34. I wonder if
that's a
default number for anything less than a full cal at Agilent? The
last
calibration was at least 6 years ago and performed by what was then
Boeing
Military Airplane Company's metrology lab. I need to open it up and
check
the battery condition.

Steve

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