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You're welcome, and all, enjoy the holidays. It may pay to download the 1993 HP Catalog, that was the last year all in the 345x line were available for sale, so you can compare and contrast the specs, also against the 3478.



The HP manuals, Keithley handbook and the volt-nuts archives are free, just download and search as needed, so you can get all the basic cal and operations info without cost to your misses before you actually buy something ;)

If you intend to stack a lot of gear ontop the 3456a and not sure about weight, put a 2x4 plank so weight get distributed to the edges of the chassis, this is were the most strength lies, while the top and bottom chassis covers are the weakest as there is also no cross bar for structural support. The plank allows a gap for added cooling, even if vents on the 3456a are on the sides and rear, the plank method works for all rack mounted sized gear.

As always too, heavies are best at the bottom, light at the top, as often the boat anchors are also made with stronger chassis to take not just its own weight but others too.

Lastly, I'm not a fan of designs that use battery backed up SRAM for system data, I prefer EEPROM at the least. Since all your purchases are used, the state of the battery is unknown and should be replaced, ASAP. If it snafus, or worst just corrupted, such as in buying "CANNOT TEST" "AS IS" type eBay gear, you'll need budget the possibility of adding $100-140 to your purchase cost to get it formally recalibrated.

With the 3456a, the all pots method puts the user in full control of its cal state, you can cal any range, any time [ keeping metrology guidelines in mind], so if you get one working or not, its also much easier to repair to working order entirely by yourself.