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Re: HP 16500C looking for logic analyser boards that are functional


 

In my experience with these boards, the issues are usually around the edges of where the runners used to be - sometimes even a fair ways away from the edges. I don't know the chemistry of what's going on here, but people have suggested it has something to do with the adhesive and moisture exposure in the air over a long period of time, hence why the damage is around the edges.

Any of the vias that are "tented" (aka have solder mask over them) are _usually_ ok, it's the ones that have exposed solder that you need to watch out for. If you heat them, you'll see what I mentioned before about the solder has a very powdery / dry look to it, and a bunch of weird brown goopie chunks will come out of it - it almost looks like flux, but it's not flux. I think the solder actually looks ok-ish, but may not be conductive anymore in some instances. I heat those and reflow fresh solder into them, which helps get all the brown chunks out.

Also sometimes the corrosion gets under the solder mask on the traces - the traces will look normal through the solder mask, but if you scrape the mask a little bit, you'll find powdery metal again.

Any trace that's suspect, try to find the components it goes to and do an end-to-end continuity check across the whole trace. You'll be amazed at what looks ok, but isn't.

My Observations:
Picture 1:
Reflow the 4 large VIAs to the right of "OK" above where the runner was. Reflow the test pad in the middle of the track to the left of where the runner was (can barely see it in the picture on the left edge). Right at the corner of the right most track below where the runner was, there's a "green crusty" - anywhere you see green crusties, the track may be damaged under the solder mask. It looks like you may have scraped the mask back on another trace down there already, or maybe that's one that has an issue - it's a different color than the others. The 3rd one from the left where it's turning and going at an angle. Also have a look at the very bottom horizontal trace - the one that's parallel to and just outside of the runner area. It looks suspect.

Picture 2:
Reflow the 3 large vias - the one that's under the runner for sure will produce the brown gunk. Try to flush out as much as possible and fill it with fresh solder.

Picture 3:
Reflow the 3 large vias - be careful with the one on the right that's copper colored - once they look like that, they are very thin and very easy to lift off the board with too much heat. Also check that one where it transitions from the large via pad to the trace - scrape back the mask a little bit and make sure you get good solder adhesion back into the trace a little bit to that pad.

Picture 4:
All of those test pads are suspect in the upper right quadrant of the picture - you can see how the ones closer to the runner look grey / have green crusties around them. The ones further away from where the runner is (lower right) look more normal - silvery and shiny. Reflow the suspect ones making sure to be making good contact to the traces on either side of the test pads.

Picture 5:
Looks like picture 2, but slightly more visible in the picture - same comments

Picture 6:
All of the large test pads look suspect. All the joints on the component on the very bottom left of the image are suspect (all green and nasty looking). The "brown" look under the solder mask of the trace right in the middle is suspect. There's also a green crustie on the trace to the right of the one with the brown mark - that could be on the surface, or it could be under the mask as well.

Picture 7:
Basically the same picture as picture 6, but further down - again the component on the very left side of the image all connections are suspect. That's where I'd be checking right at the opening of the solder mask where the track turns into a pad for breaks. Most of the large vias / test point look bad.

Did you check into if the 16500 mainframe has self tests with detailed info? Those really help to narrow things down. It's very hard to tell visually what's actually bad and what isn't, and you can spend HOURS cleaning up stuff that looks bad on the board, but probably isn't actually creating any real problems.


On Sun, Nov 19, 2023 at 6:42?PM Damien Towning <connolly.damien@...> wrote:
Using the microscope took some pictures.?









I think in this revision of the board they might have known they had a problem in that only one resistor pack looks to have been exposed to the carnage. I fixed two bad tracks but the rest seem okay. Now with the 'solid' vias(?) should I just be able to heat those up and suck the solder out. Where they join tracks when I scrape em up they just look like copper? If I am supposed to suck those out and reflow em I definitely have something to go work on. With the microscope I can see about four of those that clearly have problems. For the resistor with the corroded leads I was just going to try cleaning those leads up with fresh solder. Do I need to lift that resistor off entirely do you think ? My feeling is the board can be saved if I just know what to do. I can mend a track fine. But these vias that seem solid are new to me.?



On Sat, Nov 18, 2023 at 12:07?AM Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:
To prevent board damage, hot air reworking stations should
always be used in conjunction with under board heaters.

Under board heaters gently preheat the entire area of the
board being worked on to a component and solder safe
temperature of around 100-150C.

This preheating action makes the hot air gun work fast,?
without the usual damage from overheating.

-Chuck Harris

On Fri, 17 Nov 2023 03:27:23 -0800 "Andrew Hakman"
<andrew.hakman@...> wrote:
> A solder sucking gun works good for through hole, but if your resistor
> packs are surface mount (like the ones on the 16752 boards are), get
> yourself a hot air tool if you don't already have one. You'll wonder
> how you did anything without it once you have one. Even one of the
> super cheapie 858D ones will get you a long way, but if you want to
> spend a little more to get a much nicer tool, I'd recommend a Quick
> 861DW or the roughly equivalent Atten ST-862D. For the relatively
> cheap price of those tools, they're really good quality.
>
> The solder sucker gun and the hot air tool are really complimentary
> tools - each one is good at different things, but they can also work
> together. If you have through hole parts on huge ground planes
> without proper thermal vias, and the solder sucker gun just doesn't
> have enough heat to get things melting, pre-heat the whole area with
> the hot air, and then go in with the solder sucker to actually free
> the part.
>







--
Damien Towning

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