The older tubes are OA3, OB3, OC3, and OD3. These are also (IIRC)
VR75, VR90, VR104, and VR150.? Don't quote me on the VRxxx tubes,
because I haven't dealt with them in a good 25 years (or more).? I
just remember that the VR series crossed over in the Ox3 series,
and that the 56xx series had a lower current, was used in Tek
equipment (that I remember) and had a lower voltage.
All of these were parallel regulators ( run current through and
have constant voltage to ground).? Exactly like zeners in
operation, ignoring different characteristics.
Harvey
On 10/27/2021 8:09 PM, Bob Albert via
groups.io wrote:
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Another tube that glows
orange is VR75.
On Wednesday, October 27, 2021, 05:00:05 PM PDT, Harvey
White
<madyn@...> wrote:
There's pretty much three types of tubes in
terms of what's inside the
envelope.? Don't mean triode, etc.
Voltage regulators, i.e 5651 or OD3, are essentially BIG
neon lamps that
glow, and the ionized mixture of gasses has a relatively
stable
maintaining voltage.? They act like a big zener diode,
high voltage one,
though.
Mercury Vapor rectifiers are rectifiers where mercury has
been added.?
In some cases, like the 2D21 thyratron, they fire, then
stay fired until
the cathode/plate voltage drops below the maintaining
voltage.? They
cannot be turned off, and act like SCRs.
Regular tubes act much like (IIRC) depletion mode FETs.?
WIth 0 cathode
to grid voltage, they conduct fully, as the grid voltage
goes negative,
the current flow drops until you hit cutoff.
Only the voltage regulators and the mercury vapor
rectifiers (which need
a warmup period to vaporize the mercury) are supposed to
glow inside at all.
IMHO, any *normal* vacuum tube that glows has an excess of
unwanted gas
will glow, and not work properly.
Harvey
On 10/27/2021 6:16 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
> ?? I am curious about those glowing tubes. The one
that glows pink and
> purple might be very gassy but the only tubes I've
seen that glow
> orange are 5651 voltage reference tubes. I wonder if
you mght have
> tubes in the wrong sockets or something of the sort.
>
> On 10/27/2021 2:27 PM, Morris Odell wrote:
>> You should replace both tubes as the gassy one at
least? looks like
>> it has had a hard life. That might be all you
need to get the 200CD
>> going again. BTW the voltages quoted on the
schematic are all
>> measured with the unit warmed up i.e. at least 60
seconds after
>> switch-on. I'd be interested to know what the
voltage across R40 is
>> once it's working. Depending on how I've
recalculated it, it should
>> be between -150 and -180 volts.
>>
>> Morris
>>
>