I have 2 Gemini power cables. One I have used for years, the other didn't seem to work. I ran across it recently and decided to rehab it. Referring to Paul K's diagram, the known good cable has the ground on the two left pins... the spare has the ground on the right two pins as shown in the diagram. I have to go with the known good cable config and resolder the wires on the spare cable's 12V power supply connector so that the pinouts? match the config of the known good cable. I have to challenge that pinout diagram unless someone can explain this contradiction to me. Thanks.??
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Anyone in the group know where the 1s and 2s were/are manufactured?
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Re: G-11/Gemini-1 Control via RS-232 and SkySafari SkyFi
Brendan¡¯s design is here: </g/Gemini_users/files/Gemini%201%20Bluetooth>
and you can find mine here: </g/Gemini_users/files/Gemini%20Bluetooth>
Cheers David ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Russell Milton
Sent: 01 July 2024 02:14
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Gemini_users_io] G-11/Gemini-1 Control via RS-232 and SkySafari SkyFi? Thanks Brendan. I'll pass that on. Would you post a link to the DIY wireless projects.
Best Regards,
Russ
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Re: G-11/Gemini-1 Control via RS-232 and SkySafari SkyFi
Thanks Brendan. I'll pass that on. Would you post a link to the DIY wireless projects.
Best Regards,
Russ
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Re: G-11/Gemini-1 Control via RS-232 and SkySafari SkyFi
Russ
this guy sells Gemini:
or?
?
Plus other Gemini and other mount stuff. ?Or there are DIY BT ¡°free¡± projects in this forum that have been here for a long time. ?David and I did one years back (both different designs) and I know they work just fine?
BT range is limited let¡¯s say 10-15 metres wifi will be longer but also limited but longer than BT.?
BT is easier to config but, as said, wifi is longer range.
FWIW
Brendan
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G-11/Gemini-1 Control via RS-232 and SkySafari SkyFi
Someone on Cloudy Night has asked me about how I control my G11/G-1 wirelessly via SkySafari. I see that the SkyFi wireless hotspot module is no longer being sold.?
What are his options? I occasionally control my mount that way. But sometimes I can't connect or lose a connection. But when it works, it can be very convenient for locating objects not in the Gemini database.
Thanks,
Russ
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Re: Gremlins strike again¡
I'm trying to rememberG1 is the system??? If earlier version (not last ver3) does it have dual SOT23 diode D10?? See image If so these fail often taking power out to the motor encoders!?? Can you measure for power at all these places indicated.?? If you have a different PSU type set-up....ignore....Its possible F2 (aka does your HC display stay on?) Yet the other half of this "dual diode" usually survives and sends power ok to CPU/EPROM/SRAM/D1/U8/U10 and few other places.  Here is a drawing of the older D10 and how its configured? Note its upside down to its position on the board  If you don't have this type PSU with dual D10 then likely culprits are F2 or bad power.?? Try measure for 5.4V DC across C29 which is left of U19 below feature port.?? Of measure 5V is passing thru F2! Get back on this Might be wise to take motors off and run them unloaded to see its mechanical stalling or power issue cheers Bren -- Brendan
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Re: Gremlins strike again¡
Power loss could result in some corrupted settings with G-1. While it shouldn¡¯t cause stalls, corrupted settings have been known to result in some very strange and unexplainable behavior. You could try taking the 3v battery out for a minute or two, then place it back or replace with a fresh one. This will reset all settings to defaults.
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Re: Gremlins strike again¡
Sure sounds like the motors should not have a problem.
The black anodized mount will heat up very quickly in direct sun!
It can get really hot.
Also, Losmandy black anodized aluminum is known to turn a unique shade of purple due to sun fade!?
How often is the stall warning happening? Both axis at the same time??
The usual troubleshooting steps apply? check or better if you have one,? try another power supply..
Check all connectors, power cords,disconnect and reconnect both ends.
The only thing else I can think of is if the. Controller is not getting signal from the motor encoders so it thinks they are stalked.
I especially distrust those RJ phone type connectors. A spray with a plastic safe contact cleaner and rapidly plug and unplug the cable a half dozen times will clean then up.
Don't know if a weak battery might cause a SW glitch that would result in these errors.
I'm sure someone who knows much more than I do will jump in
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Re: Gremlins strike again¡
Michael
Thanhs for the ideas. ?Never in direct sunlight unless I specifically open the RORO roof during the day like I did today. ?I have 2¡± thick polystyrene in the roof and walls so tends to be the coolest place on our property. ?It was hot clear sunshine when I opened the roof to reset the mount (cold start). Perhaps that was the issue?
Mount very well balanced and mount moves very easily in all directions (clutches very lightly applied).?
Lubrication - no idea!
Regards
Mark
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Re: Gremlins strike again¡
First thing to check is the power supply voltage. Can you put a meter on it and monitor during a slew? The motors are the only parts that run on the full voltage of the supply. If the voltage is low, the torque goes down.
30¡ãC (86¡ãF) isn't THAT hot, but has it been hotter even though not in use? Is sunlight hitting the mount? If so, your axis bearing lubrication may have melted out. When you release the clutch, if the load is balanced the axis should move freely.?
This is easily fixed by servicing the mount.?
The question is what lubricant is being used?
Some people use thin lubricants like superLube that tend to melt out. There are many discussions on lubricants in the group.?
Happy reading!
I wouldn't keep stalling the motors. It means they are drawing maximum current and they get HOT. You don't want to burn the windings.
One last thing, check the slew rate and try slowing it down.
Is it possible it's set faster than normal?
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Hi folks
i have not used my Gemini 1 L4 for quite a few weeks now. ?We had a power cut or two. ?One was three hours long and enough for the UPS to run out. ?That was a month ago. ?Today I went into the obs to clean up all the cobwebs and reset everything. ?I did a cold start, reset the home position and tried to park and I am getting intermittent motor stalls on both RA and Dec. Polite version - ¡®Oh bother¡¯. ?It is early afternoon here, 30 degrees C in the obs - I am sure that shouldn¡¯t cause an issue? ?Other thing I noticed is the clutches tightness seem very light (lighter than usual) which could be due to how hot it is? ?Has the power cut done some damage? ?
thanks in advance¡
Regards
Mark
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Re: Gemini 1 Level 1 System Not Powering On
Brendan,
I respect the handson experience of seasoned users. Additionally, I would have had to craft a new socket so I wouldn't risk plugging a 12 volt GoTo into an 18 volt socket. I'd rather have a counter weight drop on my toe. And, I just made a new cable with a nifty 90 degree DIN plug. If memory serves, I have you to thank for that part number.
Bottom line, keep it simply. Why change it if it's working well?
1,000 Thanks,
Ernie?
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Re: Gemini 1 Level 1 System Not Powering On
The system runs fine on 12V DC. ?I ran my own on a computer PSU 12V out for two years. ?
To many obsess about the need for a higher voltage! But basic forces in a motor f=¡°sintheta BIL¡± where ¡°B¡± is magnetic flux density, ¡°I¡± is current and ¡°L¡± is length or motor wire conductor. ?
Using ohms law V/(IR) so ¡°I¡± (current) is increased if ¡°V¡± voltage is increased. ?
This is why a motor runs a little bit better with a slightly higher voltage ¡.it¡¯s because it¡¯s slightly higher current. ?
But as said it is designed and ¡°will¡± run fine at 12V DC . ?Don¡¯t obsess over higher voltage. ?If I had an observatory ?then I¡¯d think about getting a 15-18V PSU. ?But 12V is universal for all accessories.
Oh, do I now use 12V DC? No, I mainly use 15/18VDC as I repair Geminis and it¡¯s easier for me to use this as output from my programmed Linear power supplies. ?I can compare current draw between units using same input parameters
FWIW
--
Brendan
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Computer goes dead if I don¡¯ respond quickly
Hi all
When I am booting up, whether cold start or warm start, ?my Gemini 1 if I don¡¯t enter the menu quickly, within 20 seconds or so, the hand control goes blank with no script response. I can still slew the mount, but have no access to the menu just a blank hand control.?
This is a new thing that just started happening last week ?
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Re: Gemini 1 Level 1 System Not Powering On
Response to 15 volts. I recently bought an GM8 and running it off a hardy garden tractor battery. Even though everything is working well, I'm probably missing something. Would I find value by adding a boost transformer to gain 15 -18 VDC? As luck would have it, I pulled the board out of my Kindrick power supply years ago to make room for a greater range of output plug sizes. All at 12vdc. Silly me. Thanks for Your Time!
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Re: Gemini 1 Level 1 System Not Powering On
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David C. Partridge
Paul Kanevsky
madastro
Drifting