--

I'm building a powersupplyl for my Gemeni 1 that's going to controll my G11. Does anyone have a diagram showing what goes where on the pins that go into the controller box?

Michael , thanks for response ,?
Every time motors and hand control response different way? , last time 30 minutes ago after cold start I tried slew mount to bright star Declination Motor run so fast and my hand control not response for my finger touch . I am using my spare new cables now for motors and hand control . I'll check my 15 V 5 amps power supply at mount? ?maybe burned , right now in the house I am using Pyramid 13.6 Volts 5 Amps .
I am in Canada and 200 km North from Toronto , Ontario .
Thanks again?
Regards
Roman

开云体育

Hi David ,
Thanks for response .?
I did it so many times , with new? cables for motors and hand control .
In the middle of cold start mount beep and Tracking Stopped .
RA motor Motor Stalled and? Motor Lags?
DEC Motor Stalled but moving slow .
When I tried slew to home position or bright star mount beeps and Tracking Stopped .
DEC Motor Stalled :D but moving with different speed sometimes very fast .
Motors disconnected from gear box?
Thanks?
Roman

开云体育

开云体育

Hi Ron,
I don't do plate solving, but I really should give it another go now that I have much better cameras than before.
So my routine is a bit different, I think, than most. Maybe call it caveman astronomy.

My mount (811) is in a stable setting, and level (plumb). I never move the mount anymore unless a hellacious storm is coming. So it starts off very close to where it left off the night before.
My mount is oriented to Polaris. And I use Sharpcap (Thanks Brian) to polar align my telescope every night, first thing. And generally it is very, very close to Polar Aligned each time.
But I'm a perfectionist and try to remove any human error that I can. So I tweak it in towards 00.00 each time. It can never be perfect, it bounces around some due to normal ground vibrations.
As soon as I'm satisficed with my PA, I close Sharpcap and move on to my Hand Control to do my Modeling for the evening.

Between the Hand Control and the computer with my cameras open, I'll build my model with 5 or more Western Stars, and 5 or more Eastern stars.
I do my best to get each stars alignment dead center in the crosshairs of my main telescope/camera. Then choose align in the Hand controller to teach it where the Alignment stars are for tonight.
Once I'm happy my stars are centering up good, I consider my model built and go on with target acquisition in Stellarium which I use as my Planetarium Program to find my victims. Then I center up with a few test images, set PHD2 guiding, and start a sequence.

A bit cruder, but a successful method.

If after running through this, or during it, if my Alignment stars act wonky, I'll do a simple factory reset, and begin again.
In my experience, a Factory Reset really blows the cobwebs out and gets things back to ground zero. Then run through the Hand Controller Modeling and really good to go.

I don't expect absolute bullseye accuracy using my mount. But it is so close the objects are almost always easily centered up, lock on, and ready to roll for hours on end.
My longest record is a total of 18,000 seconds of exposures on a single object. Some 1300 images.
When Scott was talking with me, he mentioned he like Long exposure AP. Long Exposure is how I had to cut my teeth in AP. Because I started off with real crap equipment. But I learned how to make it work for me, the hard way.

I really need to try and get back to Plate solving and hopefully group my poop with it.

But for now:
1. Polar Align on a semi-fixed mount.
2. Model building with the Hand Controller and computer.
3. Acquisition in Stellarium.
4. PHD2 guiding.
5. Image acquiring in my cameras program running through 8 different filter settings.

I'm still baffled about the processing end. LOL! LMAO! But I sure can generate files!

Perseverance Ron. Perseverance.
And always use the smallest hammer for adjustments.

Hi ,?
Accidentally left running? my G11 with Gemini 1 Level 4 .
I come back after few hours and m RA and DEC run to the end ... and stack .
Now I do not have control on my mount and motors run strange ,,
After 15 years using G11 this silly accident happened first time .
I would like to fix my mount but do not know what is damaged? , just Encoders or? motors ??
Please help me to fix it and any ideas very welcome .
Tanks for your time.
Regards
Roman

开云体育

--

Hello during this full moon :)

Since I have a permanent setup I thought that I would try to build a real accurate model in Gemini 2 and continue to add new targets as the year progresses from this time forward using Plate solving so need help with the steps

First good polar align
Using Gemini.net in Windows PC or HC? on G11 after startup GOTO star lower western hemisphere imaging in SharpCap
Align and Sync ( in both HC and Gemini.net ? either OK ?)
Then PlateSolve Align and Sync . Im using SharpCap? and frequently with the first Platesolve the resync is often is quite off in location so what to do next ?
Do I then re center the star manually and then Align again in Gemini?
Then move to next western target
Minimum #10 each side enough ??
is there a maximum number of targets of Gemini ?as would prefer to add future new targets to model as the year progresses
I Park and then shutdown power
Powerup, slew to CWD, warm restart, GOTO , Platesolve then reposition and sync ?
Im confused with the order

How do I PlateSolve and Align in order to build my model?

thanks
Ron

Hi Michael,
I usually remote operate my 811 from inside the house via WIFI with Tight Vnc.
Things usually run smooth for me, but now and then things get wonky.
With my first mount (Celestron AVX) I learned to rely on doing "Factory Resets".
It brings all the wonkies out and blows them into the wind.
Same has become routine for me with my 811 to do a reset now and then to get my initial model building clean and more accurate from the start.
It biggest advantage I see is better initial star line ups when building my model.
I routinely do a Sharpcap Polar Alignment. Then go right into my model building. Out at my 811 and telescope.
But anytime I run into any anomalies, I usually wind up back doing a Factory Reset while starting over.
I don't know if you can do a factory reset with a Gemini I, in the easy way a Gemini II can.
But I've settled into a routine that works well for me.
Once I'm on my target, I will retire to the house and run/monitor things from there.

Doing a factory reset even cures (usually) any tendencies for my 811 to run off, or slew wrong. It doesn't happen very often, but a factory reset, and/or a shutdown/restart of my little Dell mount dedicated computer usually forgives all sins.

开云体育

A follow up question.

When you say that the 6 pin din consists of twisted pairs. Does that mean that it's not a normal 6 pin cable that I can buy online?

Have uploaded the PHD log

Thanks all