Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
I already have a core around the leads internal in the microphone as per modification of the MH-59.
This tick problem only start occurring some months ago.
Well after I did the modification.
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Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
RF getting into the mic maybe? The 857 is rather susceptible to RF issues.
Try a split ferrite core on the mic lead.
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Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
I wish Tony, but the click is every 1sec ish and stable.
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Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
? ? Perhaps the microphone circuit is switching in after the PTT? There would be a ¡°click¡± sound at the beginning of every transition. ? ? --------------- Regards, ? Tony VA7TF ?VE7ACF ?
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From: PA5MSent: January 30, 2021 6:39 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FT-857] MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio ? Hi Joe,
Tnx fr quick reply.
The RMT setting was already in place.
I am not using APRS and I don't think there is any setting in the FT857 menu.
No PPL(?) tones used.
73e Michael -- +++++++++++++++ Tony VA7TF? VE7ACF
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Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
Hi Joe,
Tnx fr quick reply.
The RMT setting was already in place.
I am not using APRS and I don't think there is any setting in the FT857 menu.
No PPL(?) tones used.
73e Michael
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Re: MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
1. Check in the EXTENDED MENU settings that you have the RMT mike selected. I think there is another mic setting but can't remember it right now. 2. Verify that APRS is off, if it is setup and on, verify that it is setup correctly. 3. Disconnect the mic at the radio and/or the remote cable if in use. Blow it off and verify that all is reseated correctly. 4. If in FM mode, verify that you have the frequency pair setup correctly to include the PLL tones.
There are more tips but I'm still at work and that is all that I can think of right off the top of my head at this moment. I am sure others will chime in.
73, Joe / AJ3O
On Friday, January 29, 2021, 04:40:50 PM EST, m.dirksen2 m.dirksen2 <pa5m@...> wrote:
For some reason the microphone add a abt 1sec tick when transmitting to the audio.
I have swapped the mic with the MH-31 which doesn't have this tick.
TX on 2m with low power, good SWR no RFI with the microphones.
Also the MH-59 already has the RFI modification done years ago.
ideas?
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MH-59 add tick when transmitting audio
For some reason the microphone add a abt 1sec tick when transmitting to the audio.
I have swapped the mic with the MH-31 which doesn't have this tick.
TX on 2m with low power, good SWR no RFI with the microphones.
Also the MH-59 already has the RFI modification done years ago.
ideas?
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From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Larry
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 5:44 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FT-857] 857 vs 857D
?
The FT-857 didn't originally include the DSP daughterboard,
but later on Yaesu included the board with?the radio.? You can
determine if the board is installed?by pressing the DSP button next to the
power button then pressing one of the three buttons on the bottom of the
display (DNR, DNF and DBF).? If the board is installed pressing one of the
buttons will display DSP on the top row of the display next to the voltage
indicator.
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You guys sound like the conversation that once took place in the cockpit of a DASH-8 aircraft;
"Hey Bob, ever wonder what would happen if the lift spoilers were to be deployed while in flight",
"Gee Lou, that's a good question, let's find out..."
Spoilers deployed...
The next sound heard is...
"Holy crap, with those things out, this bird falls like a rock!"? yelled Bob over the screams from the passenger compartment, "Better retract them before we hit the dirt, Lou!". And now every DASH-8 n=manufactured since this incident and all those manufactured before the incident cannot deploy the lift spoilers unless the aircraft is firmly on the ground.
Kinda like killing power to the rig before you unplug cables that carry power of signals within the rig.
Stay safe guys.
John VE7KKQ
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 5:13 PM Michael Dannhardt < mdannhardt@...> wrote: Roger,? Agree! I certainly didn't do that but I 'may' have started or killed my car at some point. I don't remember. I know I've done that in the past w/o a problem but maybe in the extreme cold? Going forward I'm going to be super cautious and make sure the rig is OFF when starting or stopping the auto engine. I'm also going to leave the MFG ATU with the alternate power connected.
On a different note - I, just now, received a reply for Yaesu for the fuse. $0.67?+ s/h?+ tax?+ whatever. Is it worth replacing the car fuse with the SMD assuming I'd be soldering to the end of the newly installed leads? WFIW, If I'd gotten this earlier that is probably the way I'd gone.
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 4:33 PM Roger Bury < simplex-2@...> wrote: inserting or removing? the CAT cable with power on is like playing Russian Roulette.
Best idea is to never plug or unplug anything with power on.
73
Roger KC7OM
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The FT-857 didn't originally include the DSP daughterboard, but later on Yaesu included the board with?the radio.? You can determine if the board is installed?by pressing the DSP button next to the power button then pressing one of the three buttons on the bottom of the display (DNR, DNF and DBF).? If the board is installed pressing one of the buttons will display DSP on the top row of the display next to the voltage indicator.
73,
Larry K0LEJ,_._,_
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Rookie
question here. I under stand the differience to be that on the ¡°D¡± version the DSP circuitry, is
an standard where as on the standard 857 it¡¯s an option._How would you know
if a 857 had the optional circuitry?, How important or useful is the circuitry?
Thank you for any help anybody can offer!!
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Roger,? Agree! I certainly didn't do that but I 'may' have started or killed my car at some point. I don't remember. I know I've done that in the past w/o a problem but maybe in the extreme cold? Going forward I'm going to be super cautious and make sure the rig is OFF when starting or stopping the auto engine. I'm also going to leave the MFG ATU with the alternate power connected.
On a different note - I, just now, received a reply for Yaesu for the fuse. $0.67?+ s/h?+ tax?+ whatever. Is it worth replacing the car fuse with the SMD assuming I'd be soldering to the end of the newly installed leads? WFIW, If I'd gotten this earlier that is probably the way I'd gone.
On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 4:33 PM Roger Bury < simplex-2@...> wrote: inserting or removing? the CAT cable with power on is like playing Russian Roulette.
Best idea is to never plug or unplug anything with power on.
73
Roger KC7OM
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inserting or removing? the CAT cable with power on is like playing Russian Roulette.
Best idea is to never plug or unplug anything with power on.
73
Roger KC7OM
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I blew mine when I tried an 817 tuner on it, playing around while waiting for the proper tuner to arrive, have heard it can also be blown by pulling out the usb cable if using RT Systems software or other when powered up,
Mick SA4MDN
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I'm happy to report the FT-857D is back on the air and working properly along with the MFJ-939 ATU.
I'm still at a loss to explain why the fuse opened which is worrisome. I also don't understand why the blown SMD fuse keeps CAT from working. Looking at the schematic that fuse seems to only be for the 13.8 power out.
I am grateful to everyone that offered suggestions.
Sincerely,
Mike / KA4CDN
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Yes, you are correct Henrik. I updated my reply after I considered the situation a bit more. I have now jumpered the SMD with a 3 amp auto blade fuse and initial testing looks good. I'll reinstall and further test tomorrow.
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Why would you want a 3.15A fuse to blow at 3.15A? You should of course be able to run 3.15A all day. That's the purpose of the rating.
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Here is the datasheet for the original F1001 SMD fuse: I have to admit, I do not understand the? fusing time chart? It doesn't make sense to me.?
?
For example, take the 501 curve (left most curve). The 501 is supposed to be rated current?of 0.5 A. But to me the curve implies it will never fuse at that current. At 1 amp it appears to tell me it fuses at 0.03 seconds. And for ours, 322, it looks like it would never open at 3.15 A.
I suppose the above makes sense. The fuses don't open at the rated current, only at some point above that current. How fast depends on how much over.
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Exactly. I'm trying to find something 'fast'. Some of the numbers, when I can find them, are terrible. For reference, is this fast acting?!?
Or these blade style!??
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Although the reactance is balanced out, what are the ohms (zero reactance) doing? Some will call ohms; impedance.
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Tony VA7TF, VE7ACF
Michael Newbury SA4MDN
G4IJL