I started with an MFJ-904H. It did the job and worked well portable as it was quite light. I found having a decent meter for swr and power to be very helpful.

However I recently scooped an LDG YT-100, it is brilliant. Much less mucking around and I've checked it with the MFJ and it tunes in very well. I've been told that it will tune a rusty nail, I don't know if that is true, but it certainly tunes in things I was struggling with using the manual tuner. Of course however, that's no indication of how good a signal it is putting out.

I would choose the LDG YT-100 if I did it all again.

Larry's comments are very good though, make sure you read that. Also, the LDG tuner drops the power when it tunes.

regards
andrew
vk2pez

I pondered that issue as well. However, my chronic hand shaking makes all these projects so much harder. The LDG YT-100 was a much simpler solution.

ANTENNA TUNER CHOICES

There's a basic choice about antenna tuners. If you go to a "manual" tuner (I have an MFJ-945E), it's a bit more work. But you have a better idea of the "quality" of the tune, that is how far the tuner has to stretch to achieve proper tuning. An automatic tuner is very desirable to reduce workload during contesting.

If you use a manual tuner, do a bunch of measurements in the middle of each band and write these down with all the tuning knob positions. Keep that list right by the tuner since it helps you to quickly go to about the correct setting. You may still need a final small tweak. Remember that a tuner only makes the radio happy to see 50 Ohms non-reactive. The tuner does NOT magically fix a badly mistuned antenna.

Most manual tuners will adjust for a wider impedance range than an automatic tuner. However, wide impedance mis-match suggests that you may want a better antenna. My manual tuner is not supposed to work on 160M with my Windom dipole. However, I can actually achieve tuning on 160M with far settings of the knobs - enough to make a QSO. An automatic tuner usually cannot do that.

An automatic tuner (I have an LDG Z-11 Pro-II) is less work but it hides the quality of the tune. In the extreme case, it tries and tries but never tunes. You can sometimes tell marginal tuning by how long it takes to tune.

What is marginal tuning??? Your raw antenna (without tuner) is quite far from resonance on your desired ham bands. The result is higher losses on the feedline and possibly a lower output signal. That loss is made worse by coaxial cable with lower bandwidth at higher frequencies.

I suggest NOT leaving the automatic tuner always on "full automatic". Otherwise, if you QSY just a bit, you may get an unwelcome retuning right in the middle of a QSO. Or you may get an unfriendly retuning if the original tuning was on the hairy edge. Instead, I use the mode where I must press the button to do the tuning. See below.

Avoid Full Power Retuning

Also, automatic tuning with full power causes arcing with the relays as they rapidly switch different inductors in and out. This arcing may eventually make the relays fail. The alternative is to use a manual tuning mode, power down your transmitter, tune then power back up. That causes less arcing. Yes, it takes more time but it is still faster than a manual tuner. I believe the Z-11 Pro-II only needs about 5 Watts of RF for a retuning.

If you are already running a lower power (say 25 Watts as for some digital modes), you might not need to power down to retune. If you are running QRP low power, you might need to power UP to use an automatic tuner!!

Remember too that Single Sideband Mode produces NO RF power during tuning if there is no audio. You can say "Ahhhh" into the mic. but your voice may change a bit, causing the needles to wander. Instead, switch to AM or CW mode temporarily then switch back.

The Z-11 Pro-II is very cool because it can be battery powered. Once tuned, it uses very little current because the relays inside are the latching type.

&&&

Another good idea is to use an Antenna Analyzer alone on your antenna (I have an MFJ-259B Analyzer). Test the raw antenna on all the ham bands WITHOUT the tuner. If you have a multi-band antenna, lowest SWR should be close to the center of each band. Write down all these settings.

For example, my Windom dipole gets the lowest SWR around 7.0 MHz for the 40M band without the tuner. That's not bad and it means that the tuner only has to compensate a short distance.

If you keep a handy list of these "raw" antenna SWR readings and periodically retest them, you can see changes in the SWR, possibly indicating antenna problems starting.

My manual tuner can see tiny SWR changes with the leaves on or off the nearby trees!!! Each leaf is a tiny capacitor plate absorbing RF. Even snow makes a difference!! You won't see that with an automatic tuner.

Finally, you may want to plan ahead a bit. These lower cost, smaller tuners are fine up to about 100-200 Watts (check your specs). If you will someday have a linear power amplifier, you will need a larger, heavier, more expensive tuner.

Just my 2 cents!!

73, Larry
KB1UMD

On Mon, 19 Oct 2020 12:08:18 -0700
"John Maguire AA6ZT" <AA6ZT.JM@...> wrote:

I second Scott's suggestion. When I first got my 857, I also bought the LDG
Z-100. This set-up was for my vehicle with the 857 body & Z-100 back near the
battery. The 857 front panel controller is near the driver. Tuning was a pain
because there is no remote control on the Z-100. Tuning required stopping the
car and opening the hatch. Ugh.

The LDG YT-100 with the Yaesu cable derives its power from the 857. No
separate battery or power supply. All I needed was a remote push button near
the driver to trigger the YT-100 tuning. It works quite well in this
configuration.

so simple to make a remote for the z100 4 pin mic plug and socket thin 4 core
wire tiny box 2 leds 1 push button sw job done in moments mine works a treat


Pete

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I am using for several years the 200 version.

In the manual I can read "If you are using the optional ICOM or Yaesu interface cable, your radio will automatically
reduce power, switch to CW mode, and transmit for as long as is needed to complete the tuning
cycle, and then will return to the previous operating mode and power level when done. "

I have the Yeasu interface but I experiment this behaviour... I missed something but can't find.

Thanks in advance for any tips.

I second Scott's suggestion. When I first got my 857, I also bought the LDG Z-100. This set-up was for my vehicle with the 857 body & Z-100 back near the battery. The 857 front panel controller is near the driver. Tuning was a pain because there is no remote control on the Z-100. Tuning required stopping the car and opening the hatch. Ugh.

The LDG YT-100 with the Yaesu cable derives its power from the 857. No separate battery or power supply. All I needed was a remote push button near the driver to trigger the YT-100 tuning. It works quite well in this configuration.

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Kenny,
The Yaesu FC-40 is the best thing since bottled anything as a FT-857D or other Yaesu rig companion.? Simply works like a charm when placed very near the antenna proper.? These are really more akin to a antenna coupler than the typical tuner that simply fools the rig.? The FC-40 when properly installed becomes and extension to the antenna, thus eliminating transmission line standing wave.? ?That is all I use any more, Regards, Phil / K4PO

I used LDG Z11Pro and AT100 with my 857s. Both have worked well. Z11pro uses less power but doesn't have the nice bar graphs for Power and SWR. Other than that, not enough difference to be concerned with.


Leonard K. Pennock
AD7AS

Those who walk bravely through life, unafraid of loss or failure,
find that they very rarely lose or fail.

I also had an LDG tuner too, worked well with a g5rv.

Matt

Whàt is useless about what I posted. U need to be specific.
Kofi

My 857’s auto tuner is the excellent LDG YT-100 with LDG cable. It’s designed for your rig and has same footprint. The tuner and the rig (for safe storage) both fit into one SAW metal ammo can—Faraday shield. Get theses surplus large ammo cans from Midway USA or Amazon. KD4MSR

I use the yt-100, it takes its power from the radio,, cat port,, no need?for extra power supply, use it mobile with the remote option.

Hello All

i am using the? LDG Z-11PRO with my FT-857 and it works perfectly.
there is a cable connection specially made for the Yaesu that comes with the tuner.
the nice thing is that the dimension of the tuner is almost the same as the FT-857 and it fits nicely on top of it.

OD5OJ, Bassam

On Sun, 18 Oct 2020 13:25:34 -0700
"kennytv via groups.io" <kennytv@...> wrote:

Just picked up a used FT-857D.? Any recommendations for an antenna tuner?
Currently using a G5RV antenna but will be using either a Buddipole or Super
Antenna for field work.? Thank You!

LDG Z100 is what i use with my half size g5 it works very well

it has to be said better than any of the MFJ ones i have tried


Pete

I use as an ATU, the LDG YT100. The aerials and antennas are varied. It works for me. I just bought a Buddy Pole so will see if that is OK too.

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The LDG AT100 PROII is also a good choice because it will work with any radio. ?Tom k3tvc

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I have used the mfj 929 as well as the mfj-939 if you want two antenna ports and a meter the 929 is a little higher but a great tuner the Y at the end of 929 or 939 is for Yaesu these are both Auto-Tune.