I have a factory installed one on my mill, but not much more than
the Harbor Freight version.? I did have to remove this and reinstall
it as they hadn't gotten it quite lined up, must have been a
Friday... or Monday... or lunch.
I also have the regular 3 axis DRO for X, Y, and head (square column
mill).
If look on front cover on this site you see how add a digital read out for quill.? It was simple and it vernier cilper from Harbor Freight.? I does eat batteries so only use when need and have draw full batteries.? The details are file section?
I have set when I could move around the shop when work as a machinist.? Today it sits in drawer unused.? I have 2" dial indicator with mag base I use my work on mill.
On Nov 19, 2023, at 1:53 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? any of you folks have one of these Mills , their sold buy all the usual suspects .
??? Mine was originally sold by KBC tools lin the 80's or 90's I was told by the original buyers family . https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-x-30-1-1-2-hp-vertical-mill-with-power-feed/g0731?gad_source=1& gclid=Cj0KCQiA3uGqBhDdARIsAFeJ5r1mMqXY7Zk9br2zA8mAP0Wjrc-a8bLVekjt8w3n-tcupz8j6lkcCc8aAhkhEALw_wcB
I just picked up the Taiwanese Enco version of this same mill. I have a Survo X feed power feed ready to go for it and am also interested in seeing what people have come up with for a solution.
I have had both of these for about 20 years. Both have been rode hard but are working. The mill has the long table. ?Mill includes R8 spindle collets, hold down set and a bunch of mills. The lathe includes steady rest and a bunch of tools. ?I am moving and too old to transport this across country and havent used them in a couple years. Easly worth the price of the included tooling. NO SHIPPING LOCAL PICKUP ONLY zip 30039 Pictures when I get around to it
FWIW, I put the Shars 4" 440V vise on my mill/drill and have been happy with it.? The jaws are removable and you can machine whatever you want to go in for a special job.? For example I made some soft jaws out of aluminum....?? Hope this helps
Nicole
On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 08:02:32 PM EDT, azk7tv <ebasilier@...> wrote:
I use a 3 inch "screwless" vise on my mini-mill (see picture). It is always a struggle to get the nut at the bottom to catch so the jaws can be tightened. This is especially true when the vise is clamped down so the bottom is not easily accessible. A second problem is that the jaws are so smooth. This is of course desirable in most situations. However, right now I am?trying to mill a complex shape in a piece of delrin, which is very slick and somewhat flexible. The smooth jaws just don't grip firmly, and the workpiecs pops out. I may have to drill and tap the delrin and bolt it onto a metal base. Anyway, this gives me an excuse to look for another vise that is easier to work with, about 3 to 4 inches wide. Ideally it would have interchangeable jaws included serrated ones that can grip the delrin.
I use a 3 inch "screwless" vise on my mini-mill (see picture). It is always a struggle to get the nut at the bottom to catch so the jaws can be tightened. This is especially true when the vise is clamped down so the bottom is not easily accessible. A second problem is that the jaws are so smooth. This is of course desirable in most situations. However, right now I am?trying to mill a complex shape in a piece of delrin, which is very slick and somewhat flexible. The smooth jaws just don't grip firmly, and the workpiecs pops out. I may have to drill and tap the delrin and bolt it onto a metal base. Anyway, this gives me an excuse to look for another vise that is easier to work with, about 3 to 4 inches wide. Ideally it would have interchangeable jaws included serrated ones that can grip the delrin.
Our club has aquired a Menards mill-drill, model KDS-25-4559. The Longitudinal nut for the table is stripped. The only replacement parts I have found are for a similar Grizzly G0760. However, Grizzly does not have any drawings or dimension data available. Has anyone either used Grizzly parts or know where to get them. I used to operate an Enco machine at work which was similar.
They do for some reason, I use 8 mm to go through the unthreaded holes in the 123 blocks. I also had to run a 3/8 die over my bolts to make them fit. They are okay for the price and you cannot get Australian made. US made freight kills the deal unfortunately.
I have referred to bolts/studs that came with my kit. Those came in different lengths, with male threads on both ends. When I tried a few in the T-nuts, some went all the way through, although then seizing at some point.? My 1-2-3 blocks were a separate purchase and not part of the clamping kit. As you stated, they have two kinds of holes. Most of the holes are too small for a 3/8, but there are 5 holes threaded for 3/8-20. Those 5 holes are all on the biggest face of the block, located as a centered "5" face of a gambling die.
??? ??? I also saw somewhere that some import 1-2-3 blocks have
different hole sizes , like their threaded for a 3/8 16 but you
cant put a 3/8 bolt through the non threaded holes . DId your hold
down
??? ??? kit come with any separate threaded stud's? There's
always all-thread to make some from .
Yes, I was referring to the T-nuts. Now it makes sense to prevent
the bolts from going through all the way. In practice some of the
bolts in the kit did go through anyway, which confused me. Anyway,
I was trying to mount an adjustable angle table onto the mill
table, using just standard 3/8" bolts with heads. That requires
bolts of rather precise length, maybe assisted by a washer or two.
In this situation it would be easier to find a useable bolt length
if the bolt were able to go through the T-nut a bit. OTOH, I could
have used a clamp + bolt as provided by the kit, but that would
take up extra space. In this case I think I will cut some bolts to
fit.
Yes, I was referring to the T-nuts. Now it makes sense to prevent the bolts from going through all the way. In practice some of the bolts in the kit did go through anyway, which confused me. Anyway, I was trying to mount an adjustable angle table onto the mill table, using just standard 3/8" bolts with heads. That requires bolts of rather precise length, maybe assisted by a washer or two. In this situation it would be easier to find a useable bolt length if the bolt were able to go through the T-nut a bit. OTOH, I could have used a clamp + bolt as provided by the kit, but that would take up extra space. In this case I think I will cut some bolts to fit.