Ask Well
I want to dermaplane my face to
get rid of peach fuzz. But is it safe to do myself?
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Peach fuzz can crop up anywhere
on the body. But when those wispy little hairs appear on the face, they can
make some people self-conscious. The good news, experts say, is that
dermaplaning is a great way to get rid of them.
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Whether you try it at home or in
a medical office or spa, dermaplaning is just "a fancy form of
shaving," said Dr. Kathleen Cook Suozzi, an aesthetic dermatologist at
Yale Medicine. A sharp blade is used to gently scrape away those little hairs,
she said, along with dead skin cells, which can improve the health and look of
your skin.
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But is it safe to try it at home?
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Here's what to know. A medical or
cosmetic professional will typically use a sterile surgical blade to perform
the procedure, whereas the tools used at home are generally duller, Dr. Suozzi
said.
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Whichever route you take,
dermaplaning should make your skin feel softer and look smoother and brighter,
said Dr. Roberta Lucas, a dermatologist at Dartmouth Health.
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The scraping removes built-up
dead skin cells, which can give you a dull complexion, Dr. Lucas said. And
along with bacteria and dirt, these skin cells can clog your pores and
contribute to acne. Dermaplaning also keeps skin healthy by triggering cell turnover,
where dead skin cells are shed and replaced with new ones, Dr. Lucas added.
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When dead skin cells layer on top
of peach fuzz, it can create an uneven surface for makeup, making it look
"caky," said Dr. Desmond Shipp, a cosmetic dermatologist at the Ohio
State University Wexner Medical Center. Dermaplaning will create a smoother
canvas. It also helps skin care products to absorb better, Dr. Lucas said.
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If you're worried that
dermaplaning will cause your hair to grow back faster, darker or coarser, don't
be. "That's an old tale," Dr. Shipp said, but the hairs might look
and feel different.
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While "micro-traumas"
like little cuts or nicks can occur at home or in a professional's office, the
risk of it happening is a little higher if you do it at home, Dr. Suozzi said.
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This is because over-the-counter
blades usually aren't as sharp as the surgical blades used by professionals,
she said, so you might have to press more firmly, increasing the risk of cuts
or irritation. Most at-home blades are meant for multiple uses, too. So the
more you use them, the duller they become.
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While the American Academy of
Dermatology does not have a stance on dermaplaning at home, the experts we
spoke with said that you should ideally leave it to a professional; preferably
a dermatologist or an aesthetician experienced with the procedure, Dr. Shipp
said.
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Because manual exfoliation is
generally harsh on the skin, Dr. Suozzi said she preferred chemical
exfoliation, which involves using products with alpha hydroxy acids to remove
dead skin cells. These items will brighten your complexion without the possibility
of cuts - but they won't remove the peach fuzz.
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People with sensitive skin should
avoid dermaplaning, Dr. Lucas said. The treatment can also worsen conditions
like eczema or acne, Dr. Shipp added.
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Your skin should be clean before
dermaplaning, Dr. Shipp said. It can be helpful to apply a barrier, like an
oil, to the skin before the procedure to help minimize irritation, Dr. Lucas
added. And try to avoid other types of manual or chemical exfoliation, for at
least a couple of days before the procedure, Dr. Suozzi said.
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When dermaplaning at home, hold
the skin taut and gently skim the blade over its surface no more than three
times to avoid irritation, Dr. Lucas said.
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Once you're done, Dr. Suozzi
suggested using a fragrance-free moisturizer to minimize irritation. And Dr.
Shipp recommended wearing sunscreen and going without makeup for 24 hours. He
also said to avoid retinol or acid-based products for a few days.
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Don't dermaplane again until your
peach fuzz starts regrowing - that could take anywhere from a couple of weeks
to about a month, Dr. Suozzi said.
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Erica Sweeney
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