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Hay I just checked his auction and see that he has changed the oppening bid from $800 to $.99. I still think he has a very high reserve on the lathe. Bid with care if interested. Not me is it gunna be. Turk

Hi all Well the lathe that John gland picked up for me is uncrated and sitting in my shop. Now in the eBay pictures the lathe did not look so good but I must tell you that this lathe is one of the best we have. Only one area of damage and that is the top of the compound. The base for the compound is perfect but the front of the top slide has spent some time getting to know the chuck jaws. Not bad and will cleaned up fine. The only other thing I could find was the saddle lock bolt is not original. Other than that there is not ware or can I see than anything has ever been taken apart. This little girl is a very nice little virgin. check out the pictures I just put up. Even the spindle nose threads look like new. The lathe is in its original japanning and next to my peddle lathe this things is clean clean clean. There is a little sign of use in the spindle bearings but there is still shim in both of them. The only negative is they have run the spindle with the end play nut set to tight and the read fiber washers are worn to the point that with the nut screwed down as far as it will go there is still a little end play. Now problemo here as old Turk just happens to have some good original thrust washers. This lathe was built after 1920 and before 1925. The large back gear is a full disc gear so that makes it maybe 1923 to 1924. It has the two piece end door and also the two piece back gear guards. Late version of the tail stock but still has a spooked 96 tooth gear. Only my Lot 5 I have that was made at South Beach has a full disc 96 tooth gear. The threading tag states Dalton Manufacturing Corporation. So was built in New York. Hay check out the great dealer tag that is installed with the same rivets that the other tags are installed with. John did a great job of packaged things back up in the crate that I sent his lathe in. Now both times we used Forward Air and I can tell you the crate looks as good today as when I built it. They did a very good job of not damaging anything. Check out the pictures in the photo file and all of you let me know what we should do with it. I am leaning to a dismantle a very good cleaning and a little buffing of the bright metal and leave well enough alone. Greg Fosmark emailed me tonight and told me his saddle arrived today in good shape. Greg will be back and running in short order. Keep them Daltons turning out works of art. Ya and that means you do Dave.K. Dennis Turk Turk

Hell all, It's been awhile, I have not had a chance to get back to work on my lathe. But I was looking thru the Photos and saw the phots of the Lot 6 s/n 167 and the drive unit on it. Atr this point i have a motor mounted to a alum plate hinged on the beach and need to come up with a better way of driving the lathe. Are there better pictures showing the setup of that drive unit? It looks likek the motor is sitting between the lathe and the pulley and would be a good design for my layout. So any pictures and dimension would be great. thanks Rob Libby

Hi Dennis, That lathe from Illinois looks like a beauty! That four jaw chuck looks a little big for it though, maybe you should send it out here.;- ) Is that Scott Cortez's lathe up on e-bay there? I thought it was, but the pictures are pretty fuzzy, and the ones on the Dalton site are nice and clear. I have a gib question here. After I was cleaning up the lathe last nite, I took the top and cross slide off to see if any of those brass chips got under anything, and while it was apart, I checked the gibs just to see if they're flat. They're flat across the part that bears on the slides, but the cross slide gib is a little wedge shaped. It'a only by about .010, but I'm wondering if that may be why I keep getting play in there. The screws are tight, and stay tight, but I get play in there after a while. I couldn't say after how long, because I don't use the lathe everyday. So I thought I'd put the question up here before I go nuts trying to make the gib totally flat with a file. Also, I think that where the screws bear on the gib, they're probably not right in those little indentations they're supposed to be in, and the middle indent is a hole.It's not all the way through, but it's a lot bigger that the point of the screw. Where the indents are on the cross slide gib, there are two or three of them, but I couldn't say if they were there when I got the lathe, or if they're from using it with some play in the gib or what. I posted some pictures of the gibs in my lathe file. The dark spots on the longer one are the high spots. I started grinding that flat, or smooth, and they agree with the marking blue when I tried it against a chunk of granite counter top, which I was assured was pretty durn flat. Well, I should be off to the salt mines here. Any thoughts or ideas will be gladly accepted and greatly appreciated. Except for the ones that state I've made things worse! ;-) Dave

to all. what did yahoo do to get rid of my groups? i finally bumped into it but it didnot list dalton group. If i wasn`t receiving emails i wouldnt be able to find it. i know its not the groups fault but would like to know what yahoo is doing. John

Hi all Just a note about the Dalton on eBay that is located in NJ. This is a Lot 5 lathe with power feed to the saddle. (not cross slide) The lathe looks to be in original finish and not too bad of shape. There are no change gears with the lathe and the milling attachment is something other than a Dalton. The cone countershaft pulley is there but that is about all. I have asked the seller for the lot and serial number but he could not find it and so I sent him a picture of the end of the bed. So typical of people that pick these up at estate sales and have not a clue as to what it is or what goes with it. I can almost guarantee that there were a set of change gears some were there in the old boys shop. If you look at all the other stuff they are selling you see the lathe is kind of out of place. Auction number is 7631262968 Just some observations. Dennis Turk.

Hello everyone, I was just looking at some tool catalogs, and it struck me that since all the calipers are listed as having accuracies of plus or minus .001 in 6 inches, and most of the micrometers are listed as being plus or minus .0005-.00015 in 1", that the calipers are just as if not a little more than accurate as the micrometers. And a little more useful since you get more than one inch out of them. But, if that is the case, I don't think anyone would be spending like 700 dollars on a set of 1-4" micrometers. Can someone enlighten me here? Or possibly point me to some information explaining this, since this might make for a pretty long post? I'm also noticing that the digital stuff doesn't list the accuracies most of the time. But then there is a set of Mitutoyo 0-6" micrometer with interchangable anvils and the accuracy is listed as plus or minus .0002 + .00005 x L/3 where L is the max. measuring length. Pretty concise listing, right? Then even Starret and Brown and Sharpe will only have the resolution listed. Very confusing. What gives here? Dave Kirk

Hi gang, What I ended up with on the Dalton was about .001 taper in 5 1/4" towards the tailstock end. I checked this after a week and then after two and three weeks and it stayed there but I haven't checked it since. This was with a Baker back plunger indicator. It also indicates 0 runout when I checked the taper in the spindle, so I know it's good! ;-) Back to the calipers for a moment. The calipers I have were listed as being plus or minus .001 in six inches. I don't know how long they'll stay that way, but out of the box, wouldn't that be plus or minus .00016 an inch? ( .001/6 ) There are some Mitutoyo micrometers here listed as being plus or minus .00015 in the 3-6 inch range. I think maybe I just don't know what they mean when they talk about .001 in 6". I don't suppose it really matters where the Dalton is concerned anyway, I was just curious. Ok, I hear some wicked thunder just the other side of the mountains outside my window here. I'm gonna go check out the Dalton on e-bay then I think I'll go see what the Dalton is up to taper- wise. Back later, Dave

Hi all, I'm wondering if someone could give me some advice on getting my lathe to cut straight. The lathe is a Dalton B6. When I cut a test bar,(without a center in the tailstock) I get about .005 taper in 6 inches. The smaller diameter is at the headstock end. I would think that if it was a matter of normal bed wear, the smaller diameter would be at the tailstock end. I have checked for bed wear by mounting a travel indicator on the carriage and indicating off the tailstock flat way. It doesn't indicate any wear that way. I'm thinking that the spindle bearings aren't aligned with the bed. As I recall there is about .004 shim under the large spindle bearing halves to take up for wear in the bearing. Any suggestions? thanks, Jim Bonner

Ok, I'm back. Would you believe I can't find my test bar? I think It got misplaced and then used for something. Considering the meagre space I have for my toys, it's not that unbelievable. So, I'm making another one. And that leads me to the first question here. How tight should you tighten the three jaw chuck? I've been clamping it pretty tight. Just short of leaving jaw marks I think. I like to think that whatever is in there isn't going to move no-how! Is this bad for it? And, what is best on my leadscrew? I put some "Super Impact Grease" on it. This is just real sticky grease. I put it on the change gears and it leaves little stringers between the gears while the lathe is running. But I'm thinking that little metal chips are going to get on there and the grease will be hell to get off of the leadscrew so maybe oil is a better idea? Ok, the calipers. So, the .001 deviation is anywhere in there, whether you're in the one inch or five inch range, you could be off by .001". And with the micrometer, you're only off by half that or less. What exacly is the AGG 1500 standard? And, since the 8.00 ones have to meet it like the 250.00 ones do, I would imagine that the real expensive ones have hardened and ground threads and the like and will retain their accuracy for more than a month? So what about the digital micrometers, do they automatically adjust for error? Do they wear out too? All right, enough for one evening. Maybe I should just go bug one of the sales people at Brown and Sharpe. Hey Dennis, can I use your name so they know I'm legit? =8-O I'm going to go slather some more grease on my leadscrew and use it as an auto feed for me test bar. Thanks for the responses! Oh yeah, does that Dalton come with an extra cross slide and top slide or did that guy just take it off the lathe and lay it in his driveway so he could get a better picture of it? Dave

Is the Dalton currently on ebay some sort of LOT 5? When I lightened up the pics, it looks like a worm drive apron. Jim

Morning folks! I was looking for federal micrometer spec's online this morning and found this. Very interesting reading,check it out--- >http://emtoolbox.nist.gov/Publications/MSCProceedings94.pdf Gotta go to work, check back later Dave

Hi gang, I almost forgot to ask if anyone needs any parts for their Daltons. The one on ebay is just an hour away, so I'm wondering what the parts situation is out there. Let me know if I should go get this baby. Glad you enjoyed the CSPR metrology link Ron. I figured somebody else would get a kick out of it. Dave

Hi gang OK there are two face plates up on eBay right now and stay away from them as I am going to win them. 7631116925 is one of them. I have one more just like these here now and I am going to open these up to Dalton spindle size. Now John Gland has spoke for one of them but the other two will go to the first and second guy that emails me telling me he wants one. These I think are wood working face plates but are 6 1/4 inch in diameter and are just a little lighter than an original Dalton but they will work just great. The cost is what ever the face plates plus shipping and $35 for my time to put the thread in them. These will be fit to one of my best spindles so I know they will work on yours. 1 1/4 - 12 and will not work on the TL except Todd Young's. Todd has a very strange TL. First all the Dalton cast in letters have been ground off and there was a flat sheet metal plate riveted to the front of the bed covering the big cast Dalton TL letters there. The spindle is 1 1/4 -12 not 1 1/2 - 8 like all the other TL's If I remember right he has a odd serial number also. May have been a prototype that was sold of or was made for some other company that the tags have been lost from the lathe. The oiling chain that carries oil up to the spindle is also different than all the other ones we know of. I have been helping Todd with getting his lathe up and running. He restores old tractors and little parade cars. Todd lives in St Louis and he has a model T that is just like the one I am working on for a niece. Anyway take a look at the eBay auction and if you wont one of these two providing I get them let me know. Owe and I would not use anything under 1 1/2 inches for a test bar. Turk

Good evening everyone, Anyone else get a kick out of the Complimentary Small Plastic Ruler Metrology? So I'm just up from checking the taper on the B-4. I'm smaller at the tailstock end by .006. Guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Just for fun I checked with the calipers and the micrometer and the calipers were off by a thousandth on the actual dimension but the difference was the same. Dave

Evenin' folks, Well, at least part of the problem is the chuck jaws. I put a 1 1/2 piece of aluminum in the chuck and tightened it up real good and I can wiggle it back and forth with my fingers. It's only gripping at the very rear of the jaws. Same thing after I took it apart and cleaned and greased the chuck. I'm wondering if I abused this in some way? I know it wasn't this loose when I did the first test bar and that wasn't all that long ago. It's not like I'm doing production on the lathe. So, I was looking at tooling catalogs,and I'm wondering if I should just get an independent 4 jaw to replace it with. Probably a 4 or maybe 5 inch since the 6 seems a little large for the lathe. Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated. As I understand it, when you bore the jaws, the chuck is only accurate at that diameter. But I may as well try it since it's pretty much useless as is. I'll let everyone know how this turns out. Dave

Hi All Well I got the two face plates and that makes three of them I have. John Gland has asked for one and Dave Kirk has asked for one. Is there anyone ells that would like the last one??? Also as I put the Dalton thread in these I am doing two other chuck back plates. On for Ron's face plate and one for Dave Kirks new chuck. If anyone is in need of a new back plate for a chuck installation get it to me and I will put the threads in it. Once I have the lathe set up to cut the threads it only takes me about a 30 to 40 minuts to cut the thread and the registration shoulder so I would like to do them all at the same time. This would be the 1 1/4 - 12 Lot 2 3 4 5 spindle thread. I do have a brand new 1 1/4 - 12 tap but Dalton did not use the standard thread pattern and as such the adapter plates I have used this tap on run oversize more than I like. Would be OK for a face plate or a dog drive plate but I don't like this lose a thread for a chuck. I also need to post this to the Dalton email group list I have because I don't thing we have every one in the gang on the user group yet. Take care and let me know if I can help with adapter plates for new chucks. Turk

Hay all you guys check out the new link in the link section. Boy is that one scruffy looking Dalton renagade."-))) Hay I just could not pass this up Ron. HEHEHEHE Turk

http://www.phase2plus.com/details.asp?pr=Hobby_Quick_Change_Tool_Set&cat=Machine_Tool_Accessories&id=238 http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2401 ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Ronald Peeler" <Ronaldpeeler@...> Reply-To: daltonlathes@... To: daltonlathes@... Subject: RE: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck back plates Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 04:39:30 -0400 Per Andy Sargent's sugguestion, I using a Phase II Hobby tool post. Just the right size for my B-4. I'm using 3/8 inch bits ( same size as I use on my 9" south Bend) Ron Peeler B-4 Owner ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Jim Bonner" <bogyjim@...> Reply-To: daltonlathes@... To: daltonlathes@... Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck back plates Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 06:06:01 -0000 Hi Denny, What is the brand and model of the tool post on John Gland's lathe? The Aloris A2 that you gave me from your B-6 is a little too large. I can't get the tool holders low enough to use 1/2" bits. The one in your pics looks like it would be great. Oh, how did you like using the Dalton? Just like your Hardinge... right? :-) Jim --- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...> wrote: > > Hi again > > I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate. Bison > makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10 > or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I > have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last > one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice cast > iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have > used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread one > for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit > your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate > chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may > not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back > plate on the lathe it is going to be used on. > > I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file > site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on > John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks. Here > is the link to that site. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/?saved=1 > > Turk >

Hi again I forgot to tell you what works really good for a back plate. Bison makes unfinished back plates for an Atlas lathe with the 1 inch 10 or 8 thread. These back plates come in 3 4 and 5 inch sizes. I have gotten the two I made up off eBay and I think I got the last one for $15 so keep a look out for one. These are really nice cast iron adapter plates that make up a nice one for a Dalton. I have used these three times now and they work very well. If I thread one for you when you get it back you can complete the machining to fit your chuck on your lathe. This way you will have the most accurate chuck you can get. If I fit your chuck on my spindle it may or may not fit yours the same. I always like to fit the chuck to the back plate on the lathe it is going to be used on. I will put a couple of pictures up in my Yahoo Fliker picture file site so you can see how it's done. These are shots of the work on John Glands lathe as I fit the back plates for his new chucks. Here is the link to that site. http://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/?saved=1 Turk