Still battling with my chuck
Okay, I have gotten to the point where I actually need to remedy my issue. The 3-jaw chuck on my Lot 4 is not longer able to hold stock true enough that I can’t make up the difference with one of my other lathes. I work on very small parts and often use the Dalton to rough in larger material that I can finish up on a smaller lathe. From what I can tell, the jaws on the chuck no longer grip the workpiece evenly. Typically I turn most of the surfaces down to spec and then cut the part off. However, yesterday, I needed to use the whole OD of a piece of stock and turn a small shaft down in the center. When I parted the piece off and put it in my other lathe, I noticed how off the chuck was.
I use this lathe about 3 times a day. Can anyone recommend a specific model of chuck that they have had success replacing the original one with? I’d love to have one that can be dialed in to perfection like the Bison Set-Tru series. My lathe has the standard 3-hole mounting plate and an MT3 taper in the headstock. I was looking to see if there was a collet solution that might work with that.
Is there any way to keep the original going? It’s looking pretty worn, but it’s led a good life. :)
Thanks,
Ryan
Manchester, MA
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
good evening from germany,
?
@ Dennis:?
thanks for the fotos and the infos! now i know what it should look like. The Motor is wired for 2820rpm, so what ever the belt ratio, it will be way too high.
what was the original power rating and the rpm of the motor?
I know it was running like that. the current owner got it from the grandfather of a friend, and it seems like it was running not too long ago.
I think i could convince a machinist at my university to mill the bed, but i hope this is not required (that would require lots of nice persuating words and payments in beer or something like that)
@Robert
i guess i have to take it apart completely when i get it. just to remove all the dirt from it and see the true condition of the machine.
@Glenn
thanks for you warning. Thats actually exactly why i havnt brought it home yet. I am really unsure if i should get a newer lathe, maybe a european brand to ensure spare parts and so on.?
The thing is, i have very limited space (and a limited budged) which puts me in a place with most other people who want a lathe in their home shop. The dalton looks bad enough and isnt well known here that lots of people want it. I am sure, that i have to invest time and money to make it work reasonably well, thats why will only take it, if the seller agrees on a low price. then i can see were i will go from there.?
worst possible outcome is to part it out and sell the spares. Change gears are there and look good, back gear is there and works, and so on....
Kind regards
Philipp
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
Phillip,
Daltons are a fine lathe, when in good condition. I have 2 at this point and enjoy using them. ?
However, any lathe that is worn out is a bad investment. ?This lathe will prevent you from doing precision machine work for a long time. ?It will have serious issues that can only be worse than initially appears. Remember, all parts of a lathe wear down and become unserviceable together- not just the parts you notice.
I started out with a cheap, tired, worn out lathe and regretted ever walking down that path.
My recommendation to you is stay away from this one. There are many good smaller lathes in the marketplace these days. Buy a newer one that will help you learn to make decent parts. Precision and accuracy are what a lathe should deliver. A better lathe will help you become a better machinist almost immediately.?
Regards,
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On Sep 12, 2024, at 11:41?AM, Robert Bradley <rcbradley@...> wrote:
?
I have a Dalton that the spilndle was very stiff on.? It was hard to turn by hand.? I put some solvent in the oil cups and let it sit.? The next day it was a little easier to turn.? I then put some 10-40 motor oil in the cups and turned it a few turns.? I repeated
that several days and after that the spindle turned very easily.? My lathe does not yet have a motor so all turning was done by hand.? Before I motorize it I will get and use a proper spindle oil.
Hello and thanks for adding me to the group and for making all the knowledge about the dalton lathes available here!?
A Dalton Lot 4 , No.1770 is currently offered on a craigs list equivalent in germany and i am thinking about buying it as my first lathe for my small hobby shop.?
I have a few questions that i want to clear before buying it, because i guess spare parts are even rarer in europa than in the US....
?
1) the spindle bearings seem quite tight. it takes some force to turn the spindle, at least it is definetly not turbing freely. when looking from the top, i am not sure if the babbits seam to have a crack in the middle, right were the path for the oil should
be, going along the spindle axes.?
would you ignore it and use it? and is there any way to replace the babbit?
2) how likely is it that the bed is worn out? when moving the carriage along the bed, it felt relatively consistent, not too loose, not too tight (but there is some dirt that might affect that)
3) is there a metric thread chart for the lot 4 lathes? since i am in germany i will only use metric threads, so this is quite important to me. i have found this foto, but i am not sure if it applies the the Lot4 lathe....
/g/DaltonLathes/photo/77634/917154?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0
4) from what i have read, the spindle should have an Mt2 taper internally, but some other variants have been found. Is there any way to confirm the Mt2 Taper on the lathe that i looked at, everything was pretty dirty in there, so no way to be sure. And did
anyone use MT2 collets directly in the spindle? like these for example:
last / 5) from your experience, if the parts that i want to make fit in the lathe, is there any reason you can think of, that would make the dalton lot 4 a bad choice for a small hobby shop? has anyone machined any stainless steel on it??
its such a cute little machine, that would perfectly fit in the tiny space that i have available. but i still have to try to stay objective about what it can do, and what it might not be able to do (or due to its condition and age cannot do any more)
Kind regards
Philipp
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
I have a Dalton that the spilndle was very stiff on.? It was hard to turn by hand.? I put some solvent in the oil cups and let it sit.? The next day it was a little easier to turn.? I then put some 10-40 motor oil in the cups and turned it a few turns.? I repeated
that several days and after that the spindle turned very easily.? My lathe does not yet have a motor so all turning was done by hand.? Before I motorize it I will get and use a proper spindle oil.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello and thanks for adding me to the group and for making all the knowledge about the dalton lathes available here!?
A Dalton Lot 4 , No.1770 is currently offered on a craigs list equivalent in germany and i am thinking about buying it as my first lathe for my small hobby shop.?
I have a few questions that i want to clear before buying it, because i guess spare parts are even rarer in europa than in the US....
?
1) the spindle bearings seem quite tight. it takes some force to turn the spindle, at least it is definetly not turbing freely. when looking from the top, i am not sure if the babbits seam to have a crack in the middle, right were the path for the oil should
be, going along the spindle axes.?
would you ignore it and use it? and is there any way to replace the babbit?
2) how likely is it that the bed is worn out? when moving the carriage along the bed, it felt relatively consistent, not too loose, not too tight (but there is some dirt that might affect that)
3) is there a metric thread chart for the lot 4 lathes? since i am in germany i will only use metric threads, so this is quite important to me. i have found this foto, but i am not sure if it applies the the Lot4 lathe....
/g/DaltonLathes/photo/77634/917154?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0
4) from what i have read, the spindle should have an Mt2 taper internally, but some other variants have been found. Is there any way to confirm the Mt2 Taper on the lathe that i looked at, everything was pretty dirty in there, so no way to be sure. And did
anyone use MT2 collets directly in the spindle? like these for example:
last / 5) from your experience, if the parts that i want to make fit in the lathe, is there any reason you can think of, that would make the dalton lot 4 a bad choice for a small hobby shop? has anyone machined any stainless steel on it??
its such a cute little machine, that would perfectly fit in the tiny space that i have available. but i still have to try to stay objective about what it can do, and what it might not be able to do (or due to its condition and age cannot do any more)
Kind regards
Philipp
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
This picture shows what your lathe looked like when new.? In fact this one originally looked just about the same as yours does now.? Also note in the last pictures of the cross slide and compound?top slide casting they look different than yours.? Your cross?slide?is of the?earlier?design and this one on John Gland's lathe, this is the later more common cross slide we usually see.? Your cross slide?is a carry over from the Lot 3 lathe built in late 1913. By 1915 they had gone to the style you see in this picture. Also the slot and the two?threaded holes you see on this cross slide as well as the two threaded holes on? your cross slide were for attaching an extension?casting to cover the cross slide?ways on the saddle? Most are missing from lathes we see today. John's lathe was one of the very first Dalton lathes I restored.? This was many years ago.? John's lathe was given to him by a retiring professor at the university of Michigan where John was a teacher. The bed on this lahe was so badly damaged that I had to re-machine all the slide ways.? We did this in one of my company's CNC milling machines. Yes I know some of us get kind of carried away with our hobbies:-(((( In the one picture that's me and my machinist Stan looking at the surface finish of a fresh cut surface.?
Morning Phillip?
OK you have?a collet adapter stuck in your spindle.? It's either a collet adapter or a morse two to three adapter. Dalton used an adapter? in the spindle to be able to use?3C collets.? You mentioned a draw bar and yes one was used to draw collets into the adapter. Yes Morse taper sorry I am not good at spelling:-(((? Looking at your photo this lathe was owned by an Englishman at some point in its history.? The compound slide has been altered to be able to use the more common English way of holding toll bits in place.? The compound slide is now typical English style. as to the crack in the spindle bearing it may not be a problem as the bearing looks well secured in the tap cap casting.. Bolts securing the head stock to the bed are not original as Dalton made all their own hardware and was quite unique.? The head stock bolts would be hex but also have a screwdriver slot and the heads are quite tall. No lock washer was used originally.? I am a bit concerned?about the drive setup.? Dalton originally from the factory were set up to run a top speed of 480 rpm.? Not knowing what RPM your motor runs at the spindle looks to be setup to run? too fast for babbitt bearings. The picture shows the side of the compound slide where there is an open hole, there should be a Tee bolt in the cross slide to hold the compound slide in place.? The cross slide has a circular?slot that the Tee bolts ride in. As to change gears you're only missing one as there are two 25 tooth gears in the set. Only the 96 tooth is not used for threading all others can be.? The 96 tooth was for attaining the slowest feed for plain turning work. Will see what pictures I have on file that can help you. Dennis
On Thu, Sep 12, 2024 at 5:59?AM Philipp via <philipp.jaeger1= [email protected]> wrote: just adding some pictures here.? Thats what i meant with the cracked babbit:?  the three jaw chuck was pretty easy to unscrew from the spindle. Still, an MT3 taper would not fit in there. but looking at the pictures i took, is there something stuck in the spindle bore??  ? ?
?
here is the whole machine:  the "NEW YORK" letters seem to have been ground of the carriage, there is some surface corrosion and lots of dirt everywhere and the gear covers are missing.? The tail stock seems a bit worn in the front part, so if the clamp close to tight there, you can only move the tail stock quill a bit out and then you have to loosen the clamp more.? i am not sure if the head stock is mounted correctly. the two screws in the back side dont look like they are supposed to be there originally...  the top slide was welded but i am not sure why: 
It definetly needs some work before i could make anything useful on it. thats why i am still hesitant if i should buy it or look for something else.
its a nice little machine with lots of features which are not easy to find on such a small machine.?
what kind of precision can be achieved on such a machine (after cleaning, aligning and so on)??
sorry for all the questions, i really like the idea of the dalton, but i am still unsure if i should take it and invest some time and money to restore it, or if i should pass on it and look for something else for my hobby projects....
greatings
Philipp
?
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
Morning Phillip?
OK you have?a collet adapter stuck in your spindle.? It's either a collet adapter or a morse two to three adapter. Dalton used an adapter? in the spindle to be able to use?3C collets.? You mentioned a draw bar and yes one was used to draw collets into the adapter. Yes Morse taper sorry I am not good at spelling:-(((? Looking at your photo this lathe was owned by an Englishman at some point in its history.? The compound slide has been altered to be able to use the more common English way of holding toll bits in place.? The compound slide is now typical English style. as to the crack in the spindle bearing it may not be a problem as the bearing looks well secured in the tap cap casting.. Bolts securing the head stock to the bed are not original as Dalton made all their own hardware and was quite unique.? The head stock bolts would be hex but also have a screwdriver slot and the heads are quite tall. No lock washer was used originally.? I am a bit concerned?about the drive setup.? Dalton originally from the factory were set up to run a top speed of 480 rpm.? Not knowing what RPM your motor runs at the spindle looks to be setup to run? too fast for babbitt bearings. The picture shows the side of the compound slide where there is an open hole, there should be a Tee bolt in the cross slide to hold the compound slide in place.? The cross slide has a circular?slot that the Tee bolts ride in. As to change gears you're only missing one as there are two 25 tooth gears in the set. Only the 96 tooth is not used for threading all others can be.? The 96 tooth was for attaining the slowest feed for plain turning work. Will see what pictures I have on file that can help you. Dennis
On Thu, Sep 12, 2024 at 5:59?AM Philipp via <philipp.jaeger1= [email protected]> wrote: just adding some pictures here.? Thats what i meant with the cracked babbit:?  the three jaw chuck was pretty easy to unscrew from the spindle. Still, an MT3 taper would not fit in there. but looking at the pictures i took, is there something stuck in the spindle bore??  ? ?
?
here is the whole machine:  the "NEW YORK" letters seem to have been ground of the carriage, there is some surface corrosion and lots of dirt everywhere and the gear covers are missing.? The tail stock seems a bit worn in the front part, so if the clamp close to tight there, you can only move the tail stock quill a bit out and then you have to loosen the clamp more.? i am not sure if the head stock is mounted correctly. the two screws in the back side dont look like they are supposed to be there originally...  the top slide was welded but i am not sure why: 
It definetly needs some work before i could make anything useful on it. thats why i am still hesitant if i should buy it or look for something else.
its a nice little machine with lots of features which are not easy to find on such a small machine.?
what kind of precision can be achieved on such a machine (after cleaning, aligning and so on)??
sorry for all the questions, i really like the idea of the dalton, but i am still unsure if i should take it and invest some time and money to restore it, or if i should pass on it and look for something else for my hobby projects....
greatings
Philipp
?
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
just adding some pictures here.? Thats what i meant with the cracked babbit:?  the three jaw chuck was pretty easy to unscrew from the spindle. Still, an MT3 taper would not fit in there. but looking at the pictures i took, is there something stuck in the spindle bore??  ? ?
?
here is the whole machine:  the "NEW YORK" letters seem to have been ground of the carriage, there is some surface corrosion and lots of dirt everywhere and the gear covers are missing.? The tail stock seems a bit worn in the front part, so if the clamp close to tight there, you can only move the tail stock quill a bit out and then you have to loosen the clamp more.? i am not sure if the head stock is mounted correctly. the two screws in the back side dont look like they are supposed to be there originally...  the top slide was welded but i am not sure why: 
It definetly needs some work before i could make anything useful on it. thats why i am still hesitant if i should buy it or look for something else.
its a nice little machine with lots of features which are not easy to find on such a small machine.?
what kind of precision can be achieved on such a machine (after cleaning, aligning and so on)??
sorry for all the questions, i really like the idea of the dalton, but i am still unsure if i should take it and invest some time and money to restore it, or if i should pass on it and look for something else for my hobby projects....
greatings
Philipp
?
|
Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
Hi Dennis,
thanks for the insight.?
Morris taper? i have never heard of that. Or do you mean morse taper??
I had a morse 2 and morse 3 with me, the morse 2 fit well in the tail stock. But a morse 3 in the spindle? It didnt look like it would fit in there, it looked way too big.?
I will se what i can do with the collets. i am not sure if the original draw bar is still there, maybe i will have to make something myself. (i guess this will be the main theme for owning and using a dalton lathe....)?
?
the only one in germany? not sure if this is a privilege or if it should frighten me ;) I read about the one in italy here in the group. And i wonder how these machines ended up here in europe.?
The motor that is currently on my machine is a german one, from between 1921 and 1945. It could have been fitted later, but if it was fitted close in time after arriving here in europe, do you think the lathe could have been brought here by american soldiers after the WW2??
?
the lathe comes with a good selection of change gears: 24,30,36,40,44,46,48,52,54,56,60,66,72,96.
I have found a nice change gear calculator online:
and it seem that i can get the most common metric pitches with this set with a maximum deviation of 2 thousands of a millimeter. that should be close enough for my hobbyist work.
And i noticed, that the myford lathes from the UK use the same gears: 20DP, 14.5 pressure angle, 5/8 bore and 1/8 key way. The only difference is the width: 3/8 on the myford vs 7/16 on the dalton. but this should work well, if not some shims can sort this.
its good to hear that the beds tend to be pretty wear resistant. i will check again when i buy it.?
The dial rings are missing on the lathe. so i might have to make some or adapt some spares from another lathe. Or i go full metric and also change the spindles on the slides..... (i already get way too many ideas, before i even have the lathe...)
kind regards
Philipp
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Re: Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
As to tapers the spindle is a number 3 Morris and the tail stock is a? number 2 Morris taper.? The spindle thread is a 1 1/4- 12.? Some people have had success in using a ER 32 collet fixture with a number 3 morris taper shank. You have found the first Dalton seen in Germany.? There was one in Holland as well as a number of them in?England. Think there was one found in Italy also but not sure about that.? As to using?a taper shank collet fixture in the spindle it would be advised that the taper be drilled and tapped on the small? end so a draw bar can be used to keep it? secured in the spindle. As to our question about a metric thread chart, yes we have?seen a couple and I think one of my Daltons has one.? As to bed wear, yes we see some but Daltons for some reason do not wear the bed badly.? Test.? move the carriage?close to the spindle then lift up and down on the hand wheel and note how much the saddle lifts off the bed.? Then do the same thing with the saddle at the tailstock end and see what you get there.? It will be different I can assure you of that and with use of feeler gages you can determine how much wear you have. As to the spindle bearings if the spindle is tight and no more than .001 up and down play when you lift the spindle you're in really good shape.? Also if it's more than that there are ways of tightening up the fit of the spindle to the bearings.? As to change gears a set consists of 15 change gears If you are missing any give us a list of what you do have and we can tell you what is missing if any. The most maddening thing about a Dalton is the very small dial rings on the cross slide and compound slide.? They are .004 per graduation and that makes working to close tolerances?difficult. Feel free to ask any questions if I can't answer them there will be someone in the group that can. Dennis?
On Wed, Sep 11, 2024 at 2:23?PM philipp.jaeger1 via <philipp.jaeger1= [email protected]> wrote: Hello and thanks for adding me to the group and for making all the knowledge about the dalton lathes available here!?
A Dalton Lot 4 , No.1770 is currently offered on a craigs list equivalent in germany and i am thinking about buying it as my first lathe for my small hobby shop.?
I have a few questions that i want to clear before buying it, because i guess spare parts are even rarer in europa than in the US....
?
1) the spindle bearings seem quite tight. it takes some force to turn the spindle, at least it is definetly not turbing freely. when looking from the top, i am not sure if the babbits seam to have a crack in the middle, right were the path for the oil should be, going along the spindle axes.? would you ignore it and use it? and is there any way to replace the babbit? 2) how likely is it that the bed is worn out? when moving the carriage along the bed, it felt relatively consistent, not too loose, not too tight (but there is some dirt that might affect that) 3) is there a metric thread chart for the lot 4 lathes? since i am in germany i will only use metric threads, so this is quite important to me. i have found this foto, but i am not sure if it applies the the Lot4 lathe.... /g/DaltonLathes/photo/77634/917154?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C04) from what i have read, the spindle should have an Mt2 taper internally, but some other variants have been found. Is there any way to confirm the Mt2 Taper on the lathe that i looked at, everything was pretty dirty in there, so no way to be sure. And did anyone use MT2 collets directly in the spindle? like these for example: last / 5) from your experience, if the parts that i want to make fit in the lathe, is there any reason you can think of, that would make the dalton lot 4 a bad choice for a small hobby shop? has anyone machined any stainless steel on it?? its such a cute little machine, that would perfectly fit in the tiny space that i have available. but i still have to try to stay objective about what it can do, and what it might not be able to do (or due to its condition and age cannot do any more) Kind regards Philipp
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Lot 4 No. 1770 in Germany
Hello and thanks for adding me to the group and for making all the knowledge about the dalton lathes available here!?
A Dalton Lot 4 , No.1770 is currently offered on a craigs list equivalent in germany and i am thinking about buying it as my first lathe for my small hobby shop.?
I have a few questions that i want to clear before buying it, because i guess spare parts are even rarer in europa than in the US....
?
1) the spindle bearings seem quite tight. it takes some force to turn the spindle, at least it is definetly not turbing freely. when looking from the top, i am not sure if the babbits seam to have a crack in the middle, right were the path for the oil should be, going along the spindle axes.? would you ignore it and use it? and is there any way to replace the babbit? 2) how likely is it that the bed is worn out? when moving the carriage along the bed, it felt relatively consistent, not too loose, not too tight (but there is some dirt that might affect that) 3) is there a metric thread chart for the lot 4 lathes? since i am in germany i will only use metric threads, so this is quite important to me. i have found this foto, but i am not sure if it applies the the Lot4 lathe.... /g/DaltonLathes/photo/77634/917154?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C04) from what i have read, the spindle should have an Mt2 taper internally, but some other variants have been found. Is there any way to confirm the Mt2 Taper on the lathe that i looked at, everything was pretty dirty in there, so no way to be sure. And did anyone use MT2 collets directly in the spindle? like these for example: last / 5) from your experience, if the parts that i want to make fit in the lathe, is there any reason you can think of, that would make the dalton lot 4 a bad choice for a small hobby shop? has anyone machined any stainless steel on it?? its such a cute little machine, that would perfectly fit in the tiny space that i have available. but i still have to try to stay objective about what it can do, and what it might not be able to do (or due to its condition and age cannot do any more) Kind regards Philipp
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Re: Boexactlt Dalton but...
Sorry I am a hunt peck typist with cataracts. ?Aye Kant spoil ner time?
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Show quoted text
On Sep 3, 2024, at 4:22 PM, Grey Pilgrim via < pilgrim23@...> wrote:
Guys, I heard of a Watch Make/ machinist in I think the Minneapolis area who passed and his widow is auctioning his shop. ? You guys may want to watch this video (maybe twice) and see if there are things you might need. ?
- Bart. (Grey Pilgrim)
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Guys, I heard of a Watch Make/ machinist in I think the Minneapolis area who passed and his widow is auctioning his shop. ? You guys may want to watch this video (maybe twice) and see if there are things you might need. ?
- Bart. (Grey Pilgrim)
|
One piece and thanks for the reply?
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Picture one and two are of a late? model Lot 5 lathe that still uses the silent chain drive?but also has a reversing motor.? This was the next to last version of the?overhead drive built for metal?turning lathes.? Picture three is the first model Dalton built we think in 1915.? This lathe is a Lot 6 serial number 127 built in 1915 or early 16.? It uses a planetary?drive and two clutches for forward and reverse?with a non reversible?motor.? These drives cost almost as much as the lathe did.? Very heavy and things wore quickly.? The fourth picture is of agear reduced drive?built for the TL lathe that was marketed in the lathe 1920's for electrical shop repair work.? The example I have?came from an electric motor repair shop.? The gear reduction was to slow the lathe down for metal working rather than the wood paten work that the TL was none for. There was one more late 20's drive?that?was almost identical to the one I show in the first two pictures.? The only difference?was the?lever you see hanging down was eliminated.? This one I? have the lever is usd to disengage a clutch we think so the spindle could easily be free wheeled.? It did not work very well and was eliminated but the silent chain drive was kept. One note is that these overhead drives were very heavy and the lathes were prone to tipping over.? But not like you think, not forward or backward but rather end to end with the head stock hitting the floor.? I realized this when we almost tipped one over during a move and it really surprised us that it was so easily flipped end to end. Also if an overhead drive was ordered with a bench mount lathe you got a special? bed foot for under the head stock.? These were three times wider than the standard bed foot.? Again to help support the weight of the overhead drive.? I have a set of these bed feet but unfortunately they were broken with a poorly welded repair. Also many of these drives after being tipped over the tall column?casting were broken.? I have one example where the overhead drive was adapted to a behind the lathe drive eliminating the tall casting.? I have two of these tall castings that have been broken and badly repaired. The example I have is on my serial number 36 Lo2 lathe you see in the last picture. Hope you guys find the information of interest. Dennis
On Sun, Aug 11, 2024 at 12:29?PM Dennis Turk via <dennisturk448= [email protected]> wrote: As to counter shaft drives.? Dalton built four different versions of the overhead drive.? I? have examples of three of them.? The only other drive they built was the?countershaft driver?that was intended to be mounted on the ceiling?or on the wall behind the lathe.? These always have the bearing block standards we see on the lateh pictured in this post. I will see what?all I have for photos and post up pictures of the drives Dalton used. Dennis
Philip does your lathe have two piece back gear guards or are they one piece.
On Sun, Aug 11, 2024 at 11:50?AM philsfatboy via <philsfatboy= [email protected]> wrote: This message is for Dennis I have a lot 4 with serial number 2688 I have owned this lathe for years and use every week still works as well as anything new of equal size and capability I am just curious how long it has been working.
Thanks,
Phillip M
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As to counter shaft drives.? Dalton built four different versions of the overhead drive.? I? have examples of three of them.? The only other drive they built was the?countershaft driver?that was intended to be mounted on the ceiling?or on the wall behind the lathe.? These always have the bearing block standards we see on the lateh pictured in this post. I will see what?all I have for photos and post up pictures of the drives Dalton used. Dennis
Philip does your lathe have two piece back gear guards or are they one piece.
On Sun, Aug 11, 2024 at 11:50?AM philsfatboy via <philsfatboy= [email protected]> wrote: This message is for Dennis I have a lot 4 with serial number 2688 I have owned this lathe for years and use every week still works as well as anything new of equal size and capability I am just curious how long it has been working.
Thanks,
Phillip M
|
Philip does your lathe have two piece back gear guards or are they one piece.
On Sun, Aug 11, 2024 at 11:50?AM philsfatboy via <philsfatboy= [email protected]> wrote: This message is for Dennis I have a lot 4 with serial number 2688 I have owned this lathe for years and use every week still works as well as anything new of equal size and capability I am just curious how long it has been working.
Thanks,
Phillip M
|
This message is for Dennis I have a lot 4 with serial number 2688 I have owned this lathe for years and use every week still works as well as anything new of equal size and capability I am just curious how long it has been working.
Thanks,
Phillip M
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Thanks for the info, Dennis. Do you think mine was produced in early 1913? Back in the 70's, I made a set of bearing blocks for the driven pulley shaft, and mounted an electric motor. I made a set spindle bushings out of bearing bronze, as the babbit ones were shimmed. I also made a bearing block to support the feed shaft, because it was missing, a couple gears, and the guard over them. It works nice on small parts and light cuts. ? ? Jerry
From: "Dennis Turk" <dennisturk448@...> To: "DaltonLathes" < [email protected]> Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2024 11:45:02 AM Subject: Re: [DaltonLathes] Info
Lot 2?#22 makes your lathe I think the earliest one we have ever seen.? There is a Lot 2 #25 and I have lot 2 #36.Yours is very complete?and looks to be in nice condition. As near as we can tell the Lot 2 was only in production for? a year or less before changes were made and the Lot 3 was introduced.? Lot 3 also did not last long as in late 1913 the Lot 4 came out and stayed in production with few changes till the end of the company in 1929. Dennis I bought my Dalton lathe years ago, but was interested to know how old it is. It is stamped: Lot 2- #22. I bought back in the 70's in pieces. I made some parts and got it running.
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Lot 2?#22 makes your lathe I think the earliest one we have ever seen.? There is a Lot 2 #25 and I have lot 2 #36.Yours is very complete?and looks to be in nice condition. As near as we can tell the Lot 2 was only in production for? a year or less before changes were made and the Lot 3 was introduced.? Lot 3 also did not last long as in late 1913 the Lot 4 came out and stayed in production with few changes till the end of the company in 1929. Dennis
I bought my Dalton lathe years ago, but was interested to know how old it is. It is stamped: Lot 2- #22. I bought back in the 70's in pieces. I made some parts and got it running.
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I bought my Dalton lathe years ago, but was interested to know how old it is. It is stamped: Lot 2- #22. I bought back in the 70's in pieces. I made some parts and got it running.
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glenn brooks
Dennis Turk
hunter
