I looked at mine and it's identical to yours. I think the setscrew (s) need to be removed and then you can pull the gear off with a gear puller. If you don't have one this is the kind to buy () IMO because you may not have much room to get the other type back into the limited space. I find far fewer uses for the three armed pullers myself, but others may disagree.
?You may find the amount of force needed is less if you squirt penetrating oil on it and in the screw hole, and again it may be easier too if you heat it a few hundred degrees, standard stuff.

The guy to ask is Dennis Turk, he's the "guru". I've taken bull bears off lathes before and you need to remove the spindle of course by removing the two bearing caps, then the little gear at the left hand end comes off, then the cone pulley, and then the bull gear should be a light press over a key in the bull gear seat of the spindle. Since I haven't had one off a Dalton you'd want to make sure of any setscrews or other restraint and remove them, and to fully support the lower part of the gear's hub and press down against the spindle nose with a press, and I'd also
find or make a spindle protector for the spindle thread if you don't have one, it could be just a piece of aluminum plate. That would help spread the force over a larger area to avoid distorting the spindle end.
?If as few hundred pounds of press doesn't move it I'd dose the joint where the gear presses to the shaft with Kroil and leave is sit overnight, then heat the gear with a soft flame, like a propane torch, to maybe 400-500 degrees and try again.
?You should be able to see where there is a key seat between the gear and the shaft, and you want to allow clearance for that to pass through your support when you press the shaft out. I've mangled a few keys in my life because I didn't take care for that.
?
?But perhaps Dennis will chime in here with the true dope on all this. I know on mine at least the small gear is fixed to the spindle with small setscrews tapped longitudinally between the gear bore and the spindle, not axially as is normal practice, so you may want to check for that before removing the gear, and I think the small gear is screwed onto the spindle end with fine threads. Make sure there aren't set screws under setscrews, as sometimes they are used to lock the torque bearing setscrews.
Glen

Visited my Mom this past weekend to help go through my late father's tools.

Spent half a day sorting through machine tools for her.? Got some a few nice things for myself to round out my boxes, plus loads of inch-sized taps, dies, etc.

Anyhow, I've been going through the small bits and adding them to my existing stock.? Came across a few things and I either don't know what they are, or I'm not sure what their purpose is (ruler is for scale).? Any advice appreciated.

Have a couple of reamers with dedicated handles.? Were reamers commonly used by hand?? Doesn't seem a very accurate way to use them.



These reamers and counterbore or deburring tools have a square tapered shank.? What sort of tool would these go in?? Reminds me of something that would go in an auger.? Doesn't appear the shank is standardized.


Have a fair amount of gently tapered reamers with square shanks.? Just like the standard reamers I'm familiar with, but with a taper.? Most are so slightly tapered it's difficult to see without paying attention.

I'm familiar with more steeply tapered holes like for ball joints, but these are generally less than 1/2" and more often closer to 1/4" with a gentle taper that doesn't seem like it would be useful for something like a friction fit.? Is this maybe to make things like locating dowels easier to assemble?? If not, what's the common use (besides the obvious of making gently tapered holes)?