If those 60 degree boring bars are the ones I'm thinking of, they
work well for threading small bores in the lathe.

Jim



--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Thanks Jim,
I don't know what I'll do with just one. Maybe I'll have to get
myself a desk so I can use it as a paperweight.
There are also what look like some type of milling cutters, or
special purpose boring bars in there. The shank is 3/8, then there

is

a tapered "neck" and then the end looks like a thread forming tool.
Kind of like those SB thread cutting tools where the 60 deg. angle

is

ground on the pereiphery of a thick disk, then when it gets dull,

all

you have to do is grind a new flat on the top of the tool? Can't

find

any on e-bay at the moment or I'd post the link. But the end of the
tool looks like one of those mounted on the end of the tool. The
angle is formed on a helix though. On the shanks is stamped R.B.-

0

3 B, and there are several, 0 1 B through 0 5 B. Any ideas?
Since this is the Dalton lathe group, I guess I should post
something about that just to stay in the moderators good graces.

I've

been trying to make some disks to check some , ahem, imported
machinists squares I bought awhile back. They all fit together
perfectly when I got them, but they all have moved since then. So I
have a 5/8 piece of 12L14 steel that I've turned down to .500 and
all I have left to do is cut it into 1/4" disks so I can check and
adjust the smaller squares.
So that's all for now.
Dave

Thanks Jim,
I don't know what I'll do with just one. Maybe I'll have to get
myself a desk so I can use it as a paperweight.
There are also what look like some type of milling cutters, or
special purpose boring bars in there. The shank is 3/8, then there is
a tapered "neck" and then the end looks like a thread forming tool.
Kind of like those SB thread cutting tools where the 60 deg. angle is
ground on the pereiphery of a thick disk, then when it gets dull, all
you have to do is grind a new flat on the top of the tool? Can't find
any on e-bay at the moment or I'd post the link. But the end of the
tool looks like one of those mounted on the end of the tool. The
angle is formed on a helix though. On the shanks is stamped R.B.- 0
3 B, and there are several, 0 1 B through 0 5 B. Any ideas?
Since this is the Dalton lathe group, I guess I should post
something about that just to stay in the moderators good graces. I've
been trying to make some disks to check some , ahem, imported
machinists squares I bought awhile back. They all fit together
perfectly when I got them, but they all have moved since then. So I
have a 5/8 piece of 12L14 steel that I've turned down to .500 and
all I have left to do is cut it into 1/4" disks so I can check and
adjust the smaller squares.
So that's all for now.
Dave

Hi Dave,

It looks like you have parallel bar. I thought that's what it might be
and did a little search and found the following:



The momax may be a cobalt alloy cutting tool. Hope the above link
helps you.

Jim




--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Hello all,
I have a general OT question here. I picked up a rolling cart with
some drawers and all the crap that was in them at a garage sale today.
In with some drills and taps ( an 1 1/4-12!) is a big piece of what I
assume is tool steel that is 1 x 2 x 12. It says Brown & Sharpe 920

on

the end. It was next to a 1/2 x 1 / 8 piece of tool steel that says
momax, and I belive that is a large cutting tool blank. Is that what
the Brown and Sharp pice is, or is it like a 1x2x12 block or

something?

It measured 1.002 x 2.009, but there is a little surface rust in
spots.
Anyone know what this is? I'd hate to go grinding into something

if

it's a precision ground measuring device or something like that. ;- )
Dave

Hello all,
I have a general OT question here. I picked up a rolling cart with
some drawers and all the crap that was in them at a garage sale today.
In with some drills and taps ( an 1 1/4-12!) is a big piece of what I
assume is tool steel that is 1 x 2 x 12. It says Brown & Sharpe 920 on
the end. It was next to a 1/2 x 1 / 8 piece of tool steel that says
momax, and I belive that is a large cutting tool blank. Is that what
the Brown and Sharp pice is, or is it like a 1x2x12 block or something?
It measured 1.002 x 2.009, but there is a little surface rust in
spots.
Anyone know what this is? I'd hate to go grinding into something if
it's a precision ground measuring device or something like that. ;- )
Dave

Be proud when Daltons start selling like that HOLTZAPFFEL
GBP 25,100.00 (Approximately US $47,293.42)

R.T. :D

Hi All

OK I have added three lathes to the register and also there pictures
in the photo section.

The next one I will put up is the original condition peddle powered
Lot 4 B-4.

Dennis Turk

Makes this one look like a bargain
<>
And it is on the left coast to save you shipping across the pond

R.T. :D

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Dennis and Jim,
Thanks for all the threading info. I'm glad it's posted here, cuz I
know I'll be going back to it, and if it's here I'll know where to
look for it.
Dennis, man, I hope you had your pants on when you posted to the
group by mistake. You wouldn't want to go putting everybody off right
from the get-go! =8-0
So after reading all that I see I forgot to ask about the
beginning diameter of whatever it is I may happen to be threading. Do
you generally take say .005 off the diameter of a 3/8 rod for
instance? A little more off a larger diameter, and like that? And
find out what works best after you've done some threading? Or should
you be able to get a perfect fit by starting out with a 3/8 rod
at .375? I guess I should just take a day and do some threading and
find out, eh?

So, has anyone come up with a way to keep the oil in the bearings?
I keep paper rags on each side of the foot under the headstock and I
stuff one under the bull gear when I'm not using the lathe to soak up
what leaks out. I've found that the gear guard over the small gear at
the end of the cone pulley can't be canted over towards the end of the
lathe or it won't keep the oil from slinging up the left sleeve of my
shirt. I did get a nice work shirt out of that experience
though.

Interesting off topic(and group for that matter) observation here.
I got an old,seriously rusty,compound off an SB saddle, with a piece
of oak and a big copper dead blow hammer, ( thumb isn't broken, just
some funny lumps where the cartilage in the joint used to be,and I
can even move it a little now!), I got the lead screw out, and
noticed that the lead screw is really worn in the middle, but if I
screwed the nut all the way towards the handle end of the screw,
there is almost no backlash. I'd have thought that the nut would have
been really worn too, being as it should be bronze,
and softer than the steel lead screw,but maybe as this is a WW II
era, no strategic metals, lathe it's made of something else?

Ok, that's probably enough for one evening, don't want to wear out
my welcome here. Thanks again for the advice.
Dave

Hi Dave,

It sounds like you are off to a good start cuting threads. One thing
you may want to keep in mind is that the chart is just a reference.
It is meant to let you know where to stop well short of the final
thread depth. At that point you can start checking for thread
clearance with the mating part while taking light cuts. The more
experienced you become, the closer to the theoretical depth you can
go before you start checking. Also if you reduce the diameter of the
work by .005 before you start cutting, you have reduced the depth of
thread by .0025. (that is assuming that the depth of thread is based
on the nominal diameter)

Like Dennis said, with a .100 dial ring you are measuring the radius
of the work and with a .200 dial ring you are measuring the
diameter. With a .100 dial, if you turn the dial .027, the tool will
advance .027 (and reduce the diamter .054)

It's a funny thing about cutting threads, ask 10 different machinists
how they do it and you'll get at least 5 different answeres. :-)
With these little machines, I think you pretty much have to do it by
the book and feed with the compound slide. I have never used a lathe
that didn't have a dial ring on the compound. Maybe you can mount a
dial indicator on the compound and get the "feel" of how much to turn
the handle to advance the slide .001 0r .002. (which as a beginner,
is about all you want to advance the tool after the first pass at
about .005 or so) While you are learning, take is slow. When cuting
coarse threads, there is a lot of pressure on the tool and
a lot of torque at the spindle.

One more thing that sometimes confuses beginners.... When setting the
compound, use the index mark that faces the head stock. If there
isn't one there, rotate the compound until it's parallel with the
cross slide and back it up 29 or 29.5 degrees.

So Dave, if you already knew what I have posted, please disregard.
Also I should say that I never was a machinist. I worked as a
mechanic who ran machines on occasion. I know I wasn't a machinist
because where I worked the machinists got a dollar an hour more than
the mechanics :-) Oh, and if anybody tells you that I don't know
what I'm talking about, they may be right :-(

hope this helps and remember to have fun. btw, great job on the
restoration.

Jim



--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I was looking at the threading charts posted yesterday and of

course

I have a couple of questions here. First one being, since there is

no

dial ring on the top slide, can I assume that if I feed the tool

with

the cross slide that I am giong to use the Single Depth column? For
instance, at 24 TPI, the SD column is .027,so I'd just use the dial
ring on the cross slide and feed it in .027?
Ok, the second question I just answered, I think the sloppy fit

I

got on a thread I cut was due to the flat being a bit too large,

and

probably the tool being ground by eye. Gonna have to make up a jig

for

grinding the tools.
Now, if I were to put a dial indicator on the cross slide, on the
cover for the lead screw, to read the depth of the top slide, I

believe

I'd still be feeding .027? And not using the .0312 figure for the

top

slide set at 30 deg.? Thats if you're using the dial ring on the

top

slide right? Which isn't there on the lot 4, at least the one that

I

have here. But I'd be feeding it at the 30 deg angle and I'd assume
that the thread would turn out a little smoother? Or would it

matter?

Too much assuming?
Dave

Hi all again.

I went back and looked at Dave's email and if I had scrolled to the
bottom of the page I would have seen the Yahoo site links.

One must be careful and be sure he is fully awake before he responds
to what he things is an email from a friend. Again I am sorry that I
posted some personal communication on the site.

Dennis

Hi All and especially Ron.

I apologize for this posting. I am not just sure how it got here as
I was responding to Dave Kirks email this morning. In his email I
did not see any reference to the group site so I am really puzzled
here. Again I am sorry that this happened.

Dennis Turk.

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote:

Hi Dave

OK just think of it this way. Your cross slide is an indirect

reading dial. If you dial in .010 you take .020 off the diameter.
Just remember that one thing and you will be fine. Installing an
indicator on the back of the cross slide would work just fine and
would get you used to not getting confused as to what your dialing
in.

If you had a dial on the compound and with it set at 29 1/2

degrees you would dial in what the chart says. Remember the
compound set at I think 27 degrees for every .001 you dial in you
will get .0001 off the diameter. Some people use the compound this
way when you wont to work to a very close tolerance and wont to
sneak up on the number.

OK your next question is why 29 1/2 and not 30 well there is a

very simple reason. When you dialing in from the compound you wont
your tool to only cut on the left side and not have the right side
dragging on the right side of the Vee. This will give you a
smoother finish on the left side of the Vee. Now you will take your
last .002 by dialing in the cross slide so your tool cuts on both
sided to just clean things up. If you try and take large roughing
cuts from the cross slide small lathes like yours are just not rigid
enough to handle the cut. Especially on larger threads.

Jim Bonners Lot six had a little dial that was .004 per graduation

so when I did the rebuild of his I installed a Atlas one. funny
thing this Lot 6 I am working on for Greg Fosmark it has a large
factory dial and they did it the same way I did Jims. Hay great
mines work in the same way right???

Well I made my first Dalton compound nut yesterday. I also made a

new screw and man did I get a great fit. After I got it all
assembled I ended up with barely .001 of back lash over the full
range of travel and its very smooth to boot. I finally figured out
how Dalton made there compound nuts. They spotted them in on
assembly and the threads were not made before hand. I set the
compound up vertically in my mill and then dialed in the cross slide
screw hole. Then I removed the lead screw mount from the end of the
top slide casting. Now I drilled and started the acme tap right in
the mill. When I reassembled the screw assembly things fit
perfect. Pictures included.

I know you will have more questions about threading so just ask

and I will try and explain it in simple terms that even you can
understand."-)))))))) Owe don't take me seriously.

Well got to go to work today. Not sure why as I don't have

anything to do up there today but they expect me on Wednesday and
every payday Friday.

Ron is sure doing a good job of setting up the group site and your

pictures look great. Good job kid. I see he has just put up a
Boston gear chart for 20 pitch change gears. I think I told him
were to find that also. He put the threading you have also. Ron
asked me about the Dalton history for the front page of the site and
he put up what I came up with. Figured if we told a little history
about all the different lathe then the guys that only have one will
understand the other ones.

Man you need to find a Lot 6 to work on. That odd ball lot 5

that was missing a compound and a tail stock over in Verona may be
available. Ray Ferguson is going right by there is a few weeks and
can pick it up. I have emailed the lady that was the seller to see
if here friend still had it for sale. I think I have a tail stock
and a compound that would work on it. this is the one that has a
Lot 6 bed and also has the double screws on the front for power
feeding but is missing the end door and the change gears. We don't
know if it used the Lot 4 gears or Lot 6. This is only the second
model like this and rob Libby has the first one. I would kind of
like to have this one as it is a model I don't have.

Still have not heard from the guy in England that is suppose to

have a Lot 8 with the bed mounted overhead drive. Love to have that
one as it is going to be for sale. Trouble is it would cost $2500
to ship it. Man so fare the best price we have on shipping my
Drummond parts is $3.50 a pound and we have a crated weight of near
400 pounds so that is going to hurt. Lets see there are two small
lathes in the crate and the legs cast chip tray 100# flywheel and
the peddle. Also a box of accessories. My face plate and my
compound as well as my forward reveres shifter and I think two
chucks for the Linker and Lakefield lathe. The second little lathe
is a Flexispeed. This was the smallest lathe built in England.
Just a little bit bigger than the Monson that was built here.
Smaller than the Goodal and Pratt lathes you see up on the bay.

Well need to get ready before the cleaning lady comes. This was

one of the concessions I had to make to my wife so I could purchase
this property down here. I had to hire a cleaning lady to come in
once a week and help out. Hay this is a big house and the wife is
obsessed with clean. Never sits. I think you said Susan is like
that.

Well see ya kid

DT
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave
To: daltonlathes@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 3:04 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] threading


Hi all,
I was looking at the threading charts posted yesterday and of

course

I have a couple of questions here. First one being, since there

is no

dial ring on the top slide, can I assume that if I feed the tool

with

the cross slide that I am giong to use the Single Depth column?

For

instance, at 24 TPI, the SD column is .027,so I'd just use the

dial

ring on the cross slide and feed it in .027?
Ok, the second question I just answered, I think the sloppy

fit I

got on a thread I cut was due to the flat being a bit too large,

and

probably the tool being ground by eye. Gonna have to make up a

jig for

grinding the tools.
Now, if I were to put a dial indicator on the cross slide, on

the

cover for the lead screw, to read the depth of the top slide, I

believe

I'd still be feeding .027? And not using the .0312 figure for

the top

slide set at 30 deg.? Thats if you're using the dial ring on the

top

slide right? Which isn't there on the lot 4, at least the one

that I

have here. But I'd be feeding it at the 30 deg angle and I'd

assume

that the thread would turn out a little smoother? Or would it

matter?

Too much assuming?
Dave






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Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the daltonlathes
group.

File : /Boston gears .pdf
Uploaded by : rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>
Description : Change Gears I know can be used on a B-4

You can access this file at the URL:


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:


Regards,

rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>

Hi all,
I was looking at the threading charts posted yesterday and of course
I have a couple of questions here. First one being, since there is no
dial ring on the top slide, can I assume that if I feed the tool with
the cross slide that I am giong to use the Single Depth column? For
instance, at 24 TPI, the SD column is .027,so I'd just use the dial
ring on the cross slide and feed it in .027?
Ok, the second question I just answered, I think the sloppy fit I
got on a thread I cut was due to the flat being a bit too large, and
probably the tool being ground by eye. Gonna have to make up a jig for
grinding the tools.
Now, if I were to put a dial indicator on the cross slide, on the
cover for the lead screw, to read the depth of the top slide, I believe
I'd still be feeding .027? And not using the .0312 figure for the top
slide set at 30 deg.? Thats if you're using the dial ring on the top
slide right? Which isn't there on the lot 4, at least the one that I
have here. But I'd be feeding it at the 30 deg angle and I'd assume
that the thread would turn out a little smoother? Or would it matter?
Too much assuming?
Dave

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the daltonlathes
group.

File : /Copy of Thread Depth Guide.htm
Uploaded by : rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>
Description : Copy of Thread Depth Guide (HTML Document)

You can access this file at the URL:


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:


Regards,

rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the daltonlathes
group.

File : /Copy of Thread Depth Guide (2).xls
Uploaded by : rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>
Description : Copy of Thread Depth Guide (Excell)Copy of Thread Depth Guide (Excel)

You can access this file at the URL:


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:


Regards,

rpp6775 <Ronaldpeeler@...>

Hi R T?????
(Road and track or Run tough or or or)

I have emailed the lady that was selling the Dalton for here
friend. I have not heard back from here as to whether the lathe was
still for sale. If it is I will let you all know and maybe it can
be picked up yet. The lathe is like Rob Libbys and is the second
one of this type. It's a real puzzle as to just what it is. If it
does swing 7 1/4 like I think it does I do have a tail stock and
compound that will work on this lathe. Other than an end door and
some change gears the lathe would be usable and should make a really
fine working machine.

Dennis Turk

Thanks!
R.T. :D

--- In daltonlathes@..., Brad Thayer <bradleethayer@>
wrote:

The seller is bilsey47 item # 7599225433

Considering what's missing, it's not worth the $250 he was

asking,

hence no bids.

I'm not interested as I have a couple to restore already.

Good Luck,
Brad

"R.T." <redlupmi2@> wrote:
Hello Fellow Gang Members,
This is one of my alter egos addresses. Let yahoo deal with

yahoo spam.

Does anyone have contact information to the Dalton lathe that was
listed on ebay several times within the last year located in

Virginia?

I will be traveling I-81 in a few weeks and may be able to pick

it up

if any one is interested and knows the contact information, and

a deal

struck.

R.T. :D Notorious Alabama Dalton Lathe owner :D





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Visit your group "daltonlathes" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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