I have a dalton lathe that was grandfather's (tool and die maker) and fathers (machinist who made mini steam engines as hobby) and? am trying to determine what type it is and approximate value. I will be selling it since do not use it and need the space in the wood shop. Would like it to go to a good home. Patent name plate i has two pat numbers last one is from 1914,? there is no sn or other identifying number that I can see on way ends. and no other name plates other than Pat? name plate on it. Its in great shape and runs great. I think it is a lot 5, from the searching I did but need some help. Lastly any input on what it would be worth? Located in upstate NY.
Thanks for any feed back
|
Hi there,
my name is Andrea, I'm writing from Italy and I'm very pleased to have found such a huge place of information.
After a long time waiting for a good deal with a small lathe I eventually found an old Dalton (don't know yet if it's been really a good deal :-) ).
The label on the train gears cover states "seven inches lathe" , no reference to the lot number at the right end of the rails where I can only see one number : 5066.
I really can't understand what model is it. It seems to me a kind of Frankenstein, maybe you will recognize it from the pictures (don't mind the "stand" :-) ).
On the apron there is the clutch knob but the lead screw doesn't have any key slot (also there is no worm gear) so it is useless...
As you will see in the pictures,?the lathe has been brutally abused during the years, it is missing several pieces...screws, gears, mandrel...part of the tail stock.
Anyway I will try to restore it in order to bring it back to life even if this will be a very long process as I can work on it only in my spare time during the weekend and I have only this lathe to turn/create new pieces.
I don't know why the previous owner disassembled the lathe, maybe he wanted to start a restoration but he must have abandoned the idea after a while. In the meantime he lost some pieces :-(
Hope someone is able to tell what I bought.
Thanks!
Ciao
Andrea
?
|
All, I have a dalton?lather that was passed from grandfather ( a tool and die maker ) to father and now to me. Unfortunately?I? have a woodworking business and generally do not do metal working . So I will be selling the lathe in the near future, but am having trouble identifying the unit and assigning a value. I have attached a few pic hoping identification could be made. I am thinking its a Lot 5 from the little checking? id did. I do not see any stamped number on the end of the bed ways and there is no other name plates other than the pat number plate.? Any help would be appreciated. Also if there is a way to post messages to the group on the Groups. io page? please let me know or is email the only form of group sharing? Thanks T
|
The last three back plates I've made were made using a somewhat elaborate method, the reason being a backplate for massive old belt drive lathe I could'nt bore/thread on the lathe (no pick off gears), and the other two were for the Select lathe out in the hangar, neither of which I wanted to go back and forth with a dismounted backplate to test on it's spindle.
?My method worked so well I'll probably do it again for every time it comes up.
?I took a scrap piece of round bar big enough to make a thread on one end and a turned copy of the register area on the other end, and used a thread mike with exceedingly careful and numerous thread diameter checks on the threads of the spindle. The register area I likewise carefully measured.
?In both cases when I got the plug gage made thus I used it to bore and thread the backplates on my lathe at my shop.
?My goal was a thread and register that only just goes on by hand, and used antiseize compound lightly in case it wanted to gall. Neither needed the antiseize though, and both were as close to a perfect fit as I've ever done and on the first try. Normally I've taken it out and tried to fit it to the spindle and then re-chuck carefully and try a bit more etc etc.
?When I was done with the one huge lathe's backplate I gave the plug to my customer, he protested he'd never need it again but I insisted, since he paid for it and it may come in handy.
?The 1 3/8" plug I made for the little select I oiled up and placed in a box under the lathe.
?Please let me ramble on a bit, because I learned a new method to turn a cheap chuck into an adjust-true type chuck recently.
? Because I had bored and threaded the chucks backplate I turned the register to be a slight press fit into the back of the chuck, yet even so the chuck itself had runout .015" at 4" away from the jaws so I knew it wasn't accurately made. This is a three jaw which runs true just outside the chuck jaws, so I know the jaws tenons aren't true to the axis.
?What to do? I'd turned regular chucks into adjust true chucks before by using setscrews at four places that bear against what would be a register, but of course the register needs a few thousandths of play to make that work, and typically backplates aren't thick enough to have 3/8" to 1/2" registers sticking out, most small chuck backplates are more like 1/8" stickout.
?But even having two small setscrew at each of the four points is shifty because they don't have much area. because that shoulder only extends 1/8". If they can, Under heavy turning things will move, adjust tru chucks use large area setscrew pads between the setscrews and the registers.
?So I was watching a youtube video () and seeing the long register on the guys backplate, and I wished I had room for one on mine, when it hit me.
?Pretty simple of course, I just trepanned a groove in the face of the backplate and am making a steel ring to bolt down into the groove, then I can used 3/8" setscrews at (The closest to) four opposing points to adjust the chuck with. This ring will be a light press into the face both inside and outside the groove and the length sticking out will be far enough to seal out chips, the chucks inside "chip seal" plate I cut away down to the inside diameter of the ring, but outside the groove the ring will be turned down .015" smaller than the chucks former register, which is the inside of the body of the chuck, and there is plenty or room for the pinions to turn and for the setscrews to adjust the body to run true.
?As for the runout at 4" I'll mark the back plate opposite the largest runout and scrape it until it runs true at 4" or even 8".
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
Oh Poo on you Bart its your computer that has the problem.
Hahahahahaha
?
?
?
Dan PLEASE help him!!!!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Dennis - are you going to bring your laptop back up
home?tomorrow? I'd sure like to help you get going with a better email
system!
?
Joe
your envelop came today.? Will get your item out next week when I get back
from my coast home where I am heading to tomorrow morning.?? Dennis
?
?
I? use 'Shield'
from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on precision
tools as well. Leaves no oily film.
Not a lick of rust
on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop.
On
Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim <pilgrim23@...>
wrote:
I
agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My
shop is a separate building unheated.? Each fall I douse every machine and
most tools in oil as a winter treatment.? Come spring it takes a week of
clean up.? Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of
time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold
gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems
?with rust there since. ?
?
Glen in 1977 I moved
into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.? I had a shop that
was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next summer I got my
first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the coldest
winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is
all aboutL? Anyway after
the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady rain. That
next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of
the mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered
with water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as
the temp went above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over
the mill.? What a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every
piece of metal in the shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never
seen that before or since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then
subjected to very worm most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill
but it was the start of Turk Mfg.J? Dennis
?
?
I
have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns
in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around
140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
?
--
?
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
Thanks for reminding me Dan.? Actually I am leaving to go down
tomorrow morning.
?
?
Dennis - are you going to bring your laptop back up
home?tomorrow? I'd sure like to help you get going with a better email
system!
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 7:39 PM Dennis Turk < dennis.turk2@...>
wrote:
Joe
your envelop came today.? Will get your item out next week when I get back
from my coast home where I am heading to tomorrow morning.?? Dennis
?
?
I? use 'Shield'
from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on precision
tools as well. Leaves no oily film.
Not a lick of rust
on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop.
On
Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim <pilgrim23@...>
wrote:
I
agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My
shop is a separate building unheated.? Each fall I douse every machine and
most tools in oil as a winter treatment.? Come spring it takes a week of
clean up.? Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of time
?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold
gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems
?with rust there since. ?
?
Glen in 1977 I moved
into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.? I had a shop that
was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next summer I got my
first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the coldest
winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is
all aboutL? Anyway after
the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady rain. That
next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of
the mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered
with water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as
the temp went above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over
the mill.? What a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every
piece of metal in the shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never
seen that before or since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then
subjected to very worm most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill
but it was the start of Turk Mfg.J? Dennis
?
?
I
have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns
in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around
140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
?
--
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Dennis - are you going to bring your laptop back up home?tomorrow? I'd sure like to help you get going with a better email system!
Dan
Joe your envelop came today.? Will get your item out next week
when I get back from my coast home where I am heading to tomorrow morning.??
Dennis ?
?
I?
use 'Shield' from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on
precision tools as well. Leaves no oily film.
Not
a lick of rust on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop.
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim
<pilgrim23@...> wrote:
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the
Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated.? Each fall I douse
every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment.? Come spring it
takes a week of clean up.? Even at that I can get flash rust on things and
spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got
tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and
have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
?
Glen
in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.? I
had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we
experienced the coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The
temp ran below zero with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.?
Not what Oregon is all aboutL? Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees
over night with a steady rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and
what I seen I could not believe.? There was a steady stream of water running
off the spindle of the mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers,
the floor was covered with water.? So that much cast iron that cold for
that long and soon as the temp went above freezing water stared condensing out
of the air all over the mill.? What a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool
box rusted every piece of metal in the shop had water standing on it or running
off it. Never seen that before or since but that is what can happen to frozen
metal then subjected to very worm most air.? Oh and learned to hate that
induma mill but it was the start of Turk Mfg.J?
Dennis ?
? I have to say, my gun safe
which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns in it has done well using
a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
?
-- Dan & Jeanne Linscheid
Salem, OR
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
Dennis - are you going to bring your laptop back up home?tomorrow? I'd sure like to help you get going with a better email system!
Dan
Joe your envelop came today.? Will get your item out next week
when I get back from my coast home where I am heading to tomorrow morning.??
Dennis
?
?
I?
use 'Shield' from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on
precision tools as well. Leaves no oily film.
Not
a lick of rust on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop.
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim
<pilgrim23@...> wrote:
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the
Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated.? Each fall I douse
every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment.? Come spring it
takes a week of clean up.? Even at that I can get flash rust on things and
spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got
tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and
have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
?
Glen
in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.? I
had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we
experienced the coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The
temp ran below zero with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.?
Not what Oregon is all aboutL? Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees
over night with a steady rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and
what I seen I could not believe.? There was a steady stream of water running
off the spindle of the mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers,
the floor was covered with water.? So that much cast iron that cold for
that long and soon as the temp went above freezing water stared condensing out
of the air all over the mill.? What a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool
box rusted every piece of metal in the shop had water standing on it or running
off it. Never seen that before or since but that is what can happen to frozen
metal then subjected to very worm most air.? Oh and learned to hate that
induma mill but it was the start of Turk Mfg.J?
Dennis
?
?
I have to say, my gun safe
which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns in it has done well using
a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
?
-- Dan & Jeanne Linscheid
Salem, OR
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
Joe your envelop came today.? Will get your item out next week
when I get back from my coast home where I am heading to tomorrow morning.??
Dennis
?
?
I?
use 'Shield' from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on
precision tools as well. Leaves no oily film.
Not
a lick of rust on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop.
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim
<pilgrim23@...> wrote:
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the
Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated. ?Each fall I douse
every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment. ?Come spring it
takes a week of clean up. ?Even at that I can get flash rust on things and
spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got
tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and
have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Glen
in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.? I
had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we
experienced the coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The
temp ran below zero with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.?
Not what Oregon is all aboutL? Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees
over night with a steady rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and
what I seen I could not believe.? There was a steady stream of water running
off the spindle of the mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers,
the floor was covered with water.? So that much cast iron that cold for
that long and soon as the temp went above freezing water stared condensing out
of the air all over the mill.? What a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool
box rusted every piece of metal in the shop had water standing on it or running
off it. Never seen that before or since but that is what can happen to frozen
metal then subjected to very worm most air.? Oh and learned to hate that
induma mill but it was the start of Turk Mfg.J?
Dennis
?
?
I have to say, my gun safe
which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns in it has done well using
a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
?
|
Re: Head stock spindle questions
I? use 'Shield' from Bore Tech to protect my Charleville and Sharps. It's great on precision tools as well. Leaves no oily film. Not a lick of rust on my set up blocks used in an unheated shop. L
On Wednesday, January 19, 2022, 04:27:32 PM EST, Grey Pilgrim <pilgrim23@...> wrote:
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated. ?Each fall I douse every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment. ?Come spring it takes a week of clean up. ?Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis ?
? I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
|
Re: How to sell machinist tools - NE Ohio or thereabouts
Where in NE a Ohio is this located. I may be interested in the tools? Steve Davis? Haulin-N-Such LLC 2019 Wadsworth rd Norton Ohio 44203?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 13, 2022, at 10:34 AM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
?So my mom is getting up in years.? Dad passed a couple of years ago - he did receiving inspection a lot of his life.
My grandfather was a machinist and when he passed Dad inherited a lot of what he had in his shop.? It also turns out Dad was more of a pack rat than anyone suspected.
Mom's finally at the point where she's ready to get some of the tools out of the house.? Of course, she doesn't know what any of it is.
As much as I could probably just take everything if I wanted, I probably can't use a lot of it as a hobbyist and I'm sure Mom could use the extra cash.
Mom's in NE Ohio and I'm 4 hours away in WV.? Had planned on going up in the fall but life got in the way.? Hopefully I can get up there soon.
Plan was to just go through everything for her and label what things are, maybe do some sold listings searches on ebay to give her a ballpark of what they're worth, and then let her sell them.? That's still the plan, but she's asked if I know of anyone who would just purchase it in a lump so she doesn't have to deal with it.
I'm guessing it's impractical to ship a bunch of tools across country due to weight and need to package carefully, so it's probably going to have to be someone in NE Ohio who can go there.
Are there companies/people who do this sort of thing?? My first guess was an estate sale company, but I'm not sure that's going to be the best option.
Any advice?
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I agree with Glenn on this. I made one on my Clausing lathe, cut the internal threads by creeping up on the final I.D. and it came out great. I had to eventually drill and tap some ?-20 holes at the matchup between the spindle collar and the baking plate to allow me to really affix the two together. Failure to do something like this an result in the chuck spinning off the spindle and scaring the c&%p?out of you. Ask me how I know.....? :)
I'm not even sure this last part could be done on a Dalton, since I'm not all that familiar with the spindle collar.
Dan
I can see the attraction of the weights.
Backing plate is a pretty simple piece, especially a blank one.? Yet they're like $50 and up.
( )
That's about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the associated chuck.
Yet when I take a trailer full of iron/steel to the scrap yard, it barely pays for the gas to get there.
Does a backing plate need to be cast iron or can steel be used?? Seems like a 4" puck about 1-1/2 long of steel is around $25 on ebay.? Lots to machine away, but it's good practice.
I don't get it.
-- Dan & Jeanne Linscheid
Salem, OR
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I can see the attraction of the weights.
Backing plate is a pretty simple piece, especially a blank one.? Yet they're like $50 and up.
( )
That's about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the associated chuck.
Yet when I take a trailer full of iron/steel to the scrap yard, it barely pays for the gas to get there.
I don't get it.
Does a backing plate need to be cast iron or can steel be used?? Seems like a 4" puck about 1-1/2 long of steel is around $25 on ebay.? Lots to machine away, but it's good practice.
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+1 for Dennis’s suggestion of boring the internal thread to fit.
Also, from prior experience, using weight lifting weights often gets you into working with the poorest, low grade materials you’ll ever work with. ?Also weight often have sand intrusion and impurities, due to cheap and dirty foundry practices. ?Profit margin is based on the lowest priced production methods and the cheapest grade materials available.?
Much better to go buy a proper, high grade iron backing plate, then face it and bore it to your requirement.?
Just my 2 cents worth...
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On Jan 19, 2022, at 11:26 AM, chrisser via < chris.kucia@...> wrote: I've not seen one anywhere with the right threads.
Best I've found is either a blank or one with a smaller hole that could be bored out and threaded.
Steve Jordan on Youtube suggests using an exercise weight as a source for a blank.? I don't know whether that's a good idea or not.
You can also get taps of that size, but IIRC, Dennis said the spindle thread is a little off from 1-1/4x12 and it's best to cut it to fit.
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Re: Head stock spindle questions
I agree Dennis. I also live in Oregon ?(A wee south of the Turk steading) My shop is a separate building unheated. ?Each fall I douse every machine and most tools in oil as a winter treatment. ?Come spring it takes a week of clean up. ?Even at that I can get flash rust on things and spend a lot of time ?with Scotch Brite. ? ?As to my guns, I got tired of the cold gunsafe and built a dedicated, heated, Gun Room ?and have had no problems ?with rust there since. ?
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Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis ?
? I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
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Re: Head stock spindle questions
Glen in 1977 I moved into the home I built that was at 900 feet elevation.?
I had a shop that was at the back of the garage (separate building). The next
summer I got my first mill and old Induma.? That next winter we experienced the
coldest winter that anyone remembered up on the hill.? The temp ran below zero
with a high temp of 9 degrees over a two week period.? Not what Oregon is all
aboutL?
Anyway after the cold spell it wormed up to 55 degrees over night with a steady
rain. That next morning I went out into the shop and what I seen I could not
believe.? There was a steady stream of water running off the spindle of the
mill.? Water was running off the mill in rivers, the floor was covered with
water.? So that much cast iron that cold for that long and soon as the temp went
above freezing water stared condensing out of the air all over the mill.? What
a rusty mess I had. Tools in the tool box rusted every piece of metal in the
shop had water standing on it or running off it. Never seen that before or
since but that is what can happen to frozen metal then subjected to very worm
most air.? Oh and learned to hate that induma mill but it was the start of Turk
Mfg.J? Dennis
?
?
I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a
couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the
environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the
three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not
inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop.
All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling
everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid)
air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it
happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a
duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and
that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of
course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes,
below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun
elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power
comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off
again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at
the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
|
I've not seen one anywhere with the right threads.
Best I've found is either a blank or one with a smaller hole that could be bored out and threaded.
Steve Jordan on Youtube suggests using an exercise weight as a source for a blank.? I don't know whether that's a good idea or not.
You can also get taps of that size, but IIRC, Dennis said the spindle thread is a little off from 1-1/4x12 and it's best to cut it to fit.
|
Does anyone have a source for a back plate for a Lot 4 A semi finished one would probably be preferred but the 1.25X 12 threaded hole is the key feature I need. I thought I had one lined up but it seams to have evaporated. TIA Greg 
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Re: Head stock spindle questions
I have to say, my gun safe which has about 40 pistols and a couple of long guns in it has done well using a goldenrod. It keeps the environment inside around 140-150 F.
?Some of the rarer handguns also get petted with a rag with one of the three rust killers.
?Being inside the house though seems to make the long guns that are not inside the safe free of rust.
?Here's my understanding (FWIW) of what happens in an un-insulated shop. All night long cooler air loaded with humidity wafts through the shop cooling everything. The cast iron acts as a heat sink, only as a cold soak instead.
?In the morning the inside air is replaced with warmer (But still humid) air, which, when it touches the colder cast iron condenses. I've watched it happen often, sometime running tiny rivers, but most often just taking on a duller cast which is the microscopic beads of water refracting the light.
?Seeing that a guy naturally grabs a paper towel and wipes it off, and that also wipes off the protective film of rust prevention.
?My wife and I feed a number of feral cats outside the house, and of course we made little boxes for them to sleep in. At the bottom of the boxes, below the pallets they sit on, we place aluminum plates with old hot glue gun elements clamped to the plates (One per 8X10 1/4" thick plate). The power comes through a simple PID controller that turns the power on at 40 F and off again at 65 F.
?That works real well but I can't buy 6 or 8 of those for the machines at the hangar, they're $48 apiece.
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Re: Head stock spindle questions
Have a similar problem here in WV.? Most people don't realize it, but we are surrounded by water.? It's just in the form of creeks and streams.? The soil is mostly mud and retains a lot of moisture.? That and high humidity in the summer.? But, far as I can tell, most of the moisture comes up from the ground through the floor in my shop.? Of course, the previous owner didn't put down a moisture barrier before pouring the floor.
The machinery isn't a huge issue as keeping the surfaces painted or oiled pretty much takes care of that, but it's a real problem with my tools.? Have some gauge blocks that were basically ruined by the time I discovered it along with some other tools that have rusted but may be salvageable.
Before I acquire any more, I need to find a solution.
Best idea I have so far is to dedicate a tool box for the precision stuff.? Plan is to cut the bottoms of the drawers out and replace with metal mesh panels so air can circulate, then build doors that enclose the drawers and seal well or put it all into a small metal cabinet, then put a small peltier dehumidifier in with some fans to circulate air.? Although a heating element sounds like a good idea too, and maybe some dessicant packs.? I figure it won't take all that much power to keep it running and as long as I close it up after taking a tool out, it should stay dry enough.? I'm still thinking it through, but having a small moisture free "box" seems like the easiest approach for now.
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Dennis Turk
Dan Linscheid
chrisser
glenn brooks
Greg H