¿ªÔÆÌåÓý


Scott's Latne

Dennis Turk
 

Hi All

Well Scott's 1914 lathe sold yesterday. I have emailed the new owner
and welcomed him to the Dalton gang. I was surprised that the lathe
sold for that price. This is the highest price paid for a Dalton
yet. I have not heard back from the person that used buy it now to
purchase the lathe but I hope we do. There have been a number of
Daltons sold on eBay over the years and most has not joined the
group. I have emailed each one but with no response back.

After September I am hoping to find the time to finish up the thread
dial project. I know it has been a year in the works but just
remember good things some time come slowly.

Turk


Re: Change gears

Dennis Turk
 

Ops I ment to say you would need a 44 tooth not a 40 to have a
complete set. Also these gears fit a Lot 2 3 4 and 5 lathe

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote:

Hi All

Just a note to let you all know that I have some Boston change
gears
that are correct for a Dalton lathe. I would like to sell the set
first but if no takers I will brake them up and sell individuals.

The set consist of the following gears.

1 each 32 - 36 - 40 - 48 - 52 - 56 - 60 - 64 - 72 plus a 20 tooth
for use as a slower feed gear. The gears are mostly Boston but I
think there is one or two Browning gears in the lot. There are
some
new ones and the rest are used but all aver very serviceable gears.

You would need two each 25 tooth one 40 and a 96 tooth to have a
complete set. The second 25 tooth gears is only used on a 12
pitch
thread and that is about the limit of what you can cut on a Dalton.

If you have a 25 and a 96 with this set you can cut every thread
from 10 to 72 plus a few odd ones but missing the 12.

I would like $75 for the lot and I will cover postage.

Dennis Turk


Change gears

Dennis Turk
 

Hi All

Just a note to let you all know that I have some Boston change gears
that are correct for a Dalton lathe. I would like to sell the set
first but if no takers I will brake them up and sell individuals.

The set consist of the following gears.

1 each 32 - 36 - 40 - 48 - 52 - 56 - 60 - 64 - 72 plus a 20 tooth
for use as a slower feed gear. The gears are mostly Boston but I
think there is one or two Browning gears in the lot. There are some
new ones and the rest are used but all aver very serviceable gears.

You would need two each 25 tooth one 40 and a 96 tooth to have a
complete set. The second 25 tooth gears is only used on a 12 pitch
thread and that is about the limit of what you can cut on a Dalton.

If you have a 25 and a 96 with this set you can cut every thread
from 10 to 72 plus a few odd ones but missing the 12.

I would like $75 for the lot and I will cover postage.

Dennis Turk


Re: Dalton Lathe on Ebay

Dennis Turk
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi All
?
No I did not make an offer.? Chris Kirk?decided to keep the lathe till he can find a bigger one.? I am just sending him a list of change gears as he has only what is on the lathe.? Nice fellow that restores old hit and miss engines.? Probably will end up helping him some way.? I still have a couple of gears left so I will see what he has and go from there.
?
Dennis

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Peeler
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Dalton Lathe on Ebay


All right, who made him an offer he couldn't refuse

DENNIS????????? Was that you


ViewItem&item=150017013831&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1

Dalton 7" metalwrkng lathe B4, lot 5 benchtop good cond Item number:
150017013831

Ron Peeler
Moodus Ct


Dalton Lathe on Ebay

 

All right, who made him an offer he couldn't refuse

DENNIS????????? Was that you



ViewItem&item=150017013831&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1

Dalton 7" metalwrkng lathe B4, lot 5 benchtop good cond Item number:
150017013831



Ron Peeler
Moodus Ct


Re: Chuck Mounting Question

Dennis Turk
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi john
?
Here are a couple of pictures of the machineing of a back plate I did on John Glands Datlon.? This may help a little to understand.
?
Dennis Turk

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: Chuck Mounting Question

Hello John,

I'll try to answer some of your questions. You may be able to use
the backplate off your 3 jaw chuck if the diameters are larger than
the finish diameters required for the 4 jaw chuck. If you are not
aware of it, there are two outside diameters on the flange. The one
that has the mounting bolts and a smaller one that fits into the
counterbore (recess) in the chuck. ( if you haven't removed the
backplate from your 3 jaw, be sure to index mark both the chuck body
and backplate flange before disassembly. )

The spare backplate that you mentioned with the thicker flange may be
a new one that hasn't been fit to a chuck. This one may be the
better choice.

The reason that it's best to fit the backplate on your own lathe is
so that the backplate recess that fits into the chuck counterbore
will be concentric and square to YOUR spindle. I don't know if the
dimensions for the backplate will come with a new chuck. If not, you
will have to measure the chuck counter bore dia and depth then cut
the backplate to fit.

Also, on a 4 jaw you will have to drill and tap the holes in the
backplate.

hope this helps, Jim

--- In daltonlathes@yahoogroups.com, "bomber60015" ...>
wrote:
>
> Good Morning Gents
>
> I've another new guy question ¨C
>
> Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and
> patient with my previous inquiries ¨C while I'm sure they are
> elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me ¨C I
> appreciate your kindness and patience.
>
> O to the question ¨C I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union
> Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the
> accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ).
>
> The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise ¨C
it
> doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the
> accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out).
>
> I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck ¨C I read, with
> relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I
> was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a
> commercially available chuck that would mount up easily).
>
> Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck
> to mount the new 4-jaw?
>
> Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what
> appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very
> nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that
the
> one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting
> hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck?
>
> Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back
> plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While
> this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to
> go about doing this . . .. any pointers?
>
> Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render!
>
> John Rosberg
>


Re: Chuck Mounting Question

 

Hello John,


I'll try to answer some of your questions. You may be able to use
the backplate off your 3 jaw chuck if the diameters are larger than
the finish diameters required for the 4 jaw chuck. If you are not
aware of it, there are two outside diameters on the flange. The one
that has the mounting bolts and a smaller one that fits into the
counterbore (recess) in the chuck. ( if you haven't removed the
backplate from your 3 jaw, be sure to index mark both the chuck body
and backplate flange before disassembly. )

The spare backplate that you mentioned with the thicker flange may be
a new one that hasn't been fit to a chuck. This one may be the
better choice.

The reason that it's best to fit the backplate on your own lathe is
so that the backplate recess that fits into the chuck counterbore
will be concentric and square to YOUR spindle. I don't know if the
dimensions for the backplate will come with a new chuck. If not, you
will have to measure the chuck counter bore dia and depth then cut
the backplate to fit.

Also, on a 4 jaw you will have to drill and tap the holes in the
backplate.

hope this helps, Jim




--- In daltonlathes@..., "bomber60015" <john_rosberg@...>
wrote:

Good Morning Gents

I've another new guy question ¨C

Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and
patient with my previous inquiries ¨C while I'm sure they are
elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me ¨C I
appreciate your kindness and patience.

O to the question ¨C I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union
Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the
accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ).

The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise ¨C
it
doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the
accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out).

I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck ¨C I read, with
relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I
was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a
commercially available chuck that would mount up easily).

Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck
to mount the new 4-jaw?

Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what
appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very
nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that
the
one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting
hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck?

Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back
plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While
this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to
go about doing this . . .. any pointers?

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render!

John Rosberg


Chuck Questions

bomber60015
 

Good Morning Gents

I've another new guy question ¨C

Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and
patient with my previous inquiries ¨C while I'm sure they are
elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me ¨C I
appreciate your kindness and patience.

O to the question ¨C I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union
Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the
accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ).

The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise ¨C it
doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the
accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out).

I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck ¨C I read, with
relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I
was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a
commercially available chuck that would mount up easily).

Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck
to mount the new 4-jaw?

Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what
appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very
nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that the
one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting
hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck?

Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back
plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While
this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to
go about doing this . . .. any pointers?

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render!

John Rosberg


Chuck Mounting Question

bomber60015
 

Good Morning Gents

I've another new guy question ¨C

Before I get to it, thanks to all of you who've been kind and
patient with my previous inquiries ¨C while I'm sure they are
elementary to you folks, they were a bit daunting to me ¨C I
appreciate your kindness and patience.

O to the question ¨C I've gotten to the point that the 3-jaw Union
Chuck that came with the lathe is now the weakest link in the
accuracy chain (previous weakest link wsa me ;-} ).

The scroll and backsides of the jaws are very worn (no surprise ¨C it
doesn't look much younger than the lathe), and it's only in the
accurate ballpark at one diameter setting (darned near maxed out).

I've decided to spring for a decent 4-jaw chuck ¨C I read, with
relief, though the spindle threads on these old nails IS oddball (I
was scratching my head wondering why I couldn't seem to find a
commercially available chuck that would mount up easily).

Is there a reason I couldn't use the back plate off the Union chuck
to mount the new 4-jaw?

Also, among the rusty greasy bits that come with the latch is what
appears to be a spare back plate. It mounts on the spindle very
nicely, but the flange (is that the right term?) is thicker that the
one on the Union chuck, and is not drilled for any mounting
hardware. Could THIS be used to mount the new chuck?

Lastly, I've seen references on the board here to getting a back
plate and doing the mounting to the chuck on your own lathe. While
this makes sense (getting maximum accuracy), I have no idea how to
go about doing this . . .. any pointers?

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance you may be able to render!

John Rosberg


Re: The Dalton papers - Hubert K Dalton history

oldarnmonger
 

Hey - He even owned a nice chunk of (gulp) Chrysler stock when he left
the world. Man - Between the considerable fortune he left his first ex
and what he left for his last wife, I wish he was MY uncle!

If anyone has any thoughts to pass on to Ms. Taylor, send them to me
and I'll forward them. She declined to have her email addy plastered
on the credits, but told me to forward any comments to her.

Jim - I've still got to post the link to the Flint connections that
old Hubert had on the history page. Thanks for the info.

- Andy
...Who ownes 2 bow-ties and 2 Daltons and is happy with all of them.


Re: The Dalton papers - Hubert K Dalton history

Dennis Turk
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Jim and Andy
?
Actually Hubert Dalton having some influence with GM and more importantly Chevy is understandable.? We all know that Hubert's lathes were not the best built by any means and so the history of the Chevy division of GM is only carrying on a tradition of second or third best products.? Yep just a tradition that has spanned over 90 years."-)))))? To all those Ford owneres isn't number one a great place to be.-"))))))
?
Turk

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Bonner
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: The Dalton papers - Hubert K Dalton history

Thanks Andy,

It was a very interesting story. I wonder if Dennis is still going to
be a Dalton fan after learning that Hubert was connected to GM .... :-)
I didn't have any trouble downloading it with a dial-up connection.

Jim


Re: The Dalton papers - Hubert K Dalton history

 

Thanks Andy,

It was a very interesting story. I wonder if Dennis is still going to
be a Dalton fan after learning that Hubert was connected to GM .... :-)
I didn't have any trouble downloading it with a dial-up connection.

Jim


The Dalton papers - Hubert K Dalton history

oldarnmonger
 

Okay fellas,

I've received the draft manuscript of Hubert K. Dalton's personal
history from a most generous contributor, Gay Taylor, out in
California. She did considerable research into old Hubert when she was
a part of the Peck family (the family of Hubert's sister/nephew). Now
that her life has moved on in different directions, she has chosen to
share her research with those of us who have an interest in Dalton,
the man, as well as his machines and inventions.

It's now scanned into a 104 page (4 mb) PDF file and posted on the web
at There are parts that are a
little challenging to read, and the photos aren't great, but the
original paper version is exactly the same. I tried to scan it in at a
higher than normal resolution so nothing got lost. Seems to look as
good as the paper version.

I know a 4 mb file will be a hassle for those of us using dialup
connections. If you need it on a CD, drop me a line.

Hope you find Gay's manuscript on Hubert's life history as fascinating
as I do.

- Andy


Re: Hardinge reciept

 

Hey Denny,
I haven't gotten any e-mails from you in awhile. Must be lost out
in the ether somewhere.Thank Yahoo.
Are you digging out the high explosives for later today?
Dave


Re: lead screw bushing

Dennis Turk
 

Hay dream on kid it ain't ever gunna happen. It goes to the grave
with me. Hay you ever going to answer my emails??

Turk

Yeah, so when can I expect delivery of that Hardinge you've been
storing out in your shop for me? I have space all cleared out in my
basement, and I've been waiting for months! "-))
Dave


Re: lead screw bushing

 

Yeah, so when can I expect delivery of that Hardinge you've been
storing out in your shop for me? I have space all cleared out in my
basement, and I've been waiting for months! "-))
Dave

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dennis Turk" <dennis.turk2@...>
wrote:

Owe dam I meant to say Brad Thayer's countershaft pulley assembly and
yes it did ship out today. Sorry Ron. Remember I am approaching the
age of senility so you may have to just bare with me for a few years
that I am still around."-))))


Re: lead screw bushing

Dennis Turk
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Owe dam I meant to say Brad Thayer's countershaft pulley assembly and yes it did ship out today.? Sorry Ron.? Remember I am approaching the age of senility so you may have to just bare with me for a few years that I am still around."-))))
?
Turk

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Peeler
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 5:45 PM
Subject: [daltonlathes] Re: lead screw bushing

Hold on Mr Turk
You wrote
"Well I have Ron Peelers counter shaft pulley with new shaft ready to
ship off tomorrow. This will get his Dalton back into operation."

Ahhh Not me. You have my face plate. As much as I would love a
counter shaft pulley with new shaft, this one isn't mine.

Ron P


Re: lead screw bushing

 

Hold on Mr Turk
You wrote
"Well I have Ron Peelers counter shaft pulley with new shaft ready to
ship off tomorrow. This will get his Dalton back into operation."

Ahhh Not me. You have my face plate. As much as I would love a
counter shaft pulley with new shaft, this one isn't mine.

Ron P


Re: lead screw bushing

Dennis Turk
 

Hi Dave

OK the two arrows you I have not a clue as to what two holes would
be there for. There should be a hole in the outer rim just opposite
the zero mark and that is for a Tommy bar so you can remove the
bushing from the saddle. Greg Fosmarks Lot 6 had two small bras
pins in this same area and they were spring loaded so the dial would
not rub on the bushing. Totally different setup than a Lot 2 3 4 or
5.

Well I have Ron Peelers counter shaft pulley with new shaft ready to
ship off tomorrow. This will get his Dalton back into operation.
Just finishing up a 9 inch SB saddle cross slide and compound
rebuild for a fellow up in Alberta Canada. Really great shape so
was an easy fix.

Still painting a lot of black parts so better get back to it.

Turk

--- In daltonlathes@..., "Dave" <dkirk_4@...> wrote:

Hi guys,
I was just cleaning up some of the lot 5 parts and I got to the
lead
screw bushing. I think that's what this is called. It's the part
that
screws into the saddle that the lead screw goes thru and the dial
ring
would ride up against.The part that gets replaced at the Turk
Works and
gets a little thrust bearing hidden in.
There are two pins thru the part of it where the 0 line is.
They
are at right angles to each other. They're kind of hard to see in
the
pictures I posted in with my lathe files, so I lightened them a
little
and drew little arrows to them.
Anyone know what they're there for? They need just a little
more
stock for one more of these on Friday afternoon and all they had
was a
piece with two holes drilled in it so they put some pins in there?
Practice job for one of the apprentice's? Like, Ok kid, here's
what you
do if you accidentally drill a hole in the wrong place on a part
you
need?
Ok, I'm gonna post the pic's real quick and turn off my
computer.
Damn thunderstorm again and this one sounds like a doozy! They
just
won't leave us alone lately.
Dave


lead screw bushing

 

Hi guys,
I was just cleaning up some of the lot 5 parts and I got to the lead
screw bushing. I think that's what this is called. It's the part that
screws into the saddle that the lead screw goes thru and the dial ring
would ride up against.The part that gets replaced at the Turk Works and
gets a little thrust bearing hidden in.
There are two pins thru the part of it where the 0 line is. They
are at right angles to each other. They're kind of hard to see in the
pictures I posted in with my lathe files, so I lightened them a little
and drew little arrows to them.
Anyone know what they're there for? They need just a little more
stock for one more of these on Friday afternoon and all they had was a
piece with two holes drilled in it so they put some pins in there?
Practice job for one of the apprentice's? Like, Ok kid, here's what you
do if you accidentally drill a hole in the wrong place on a part you
need?
Ok, I'm gonna post the pic's real quick and turn off my computer.
Damn thunderstorm again and this one sounds like a doozy! They just
won't leave us alone lately.
Dave