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DQ20 tweeter
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Hey Charlie! Yes, my brother programmed the router to the size of the supplied gasket. Thinking it's what I wanted. ??♂? no effect on sound stage and I look at it in a positive light..I have flexibility for a different or slightly larger mid if I choose in the future..lol
Looks brand new. I like the way you aligned all the screw heads.
Is it just my perception or is there a wide gap around the midrange driver?
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Looks brand new. I like the way you aligned all the screw heads.
Is it just my perception or is there a wide gap around the midrange driver?
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This is how it turned out. Best of luck. Mick
Yes,? I could 3D print a template of any diameter and then no special bearing is needed and it could be? routed all the way through.? Or use a circle jig on the router to make the template.
I've thought about doing it the way that you described, yes that would work.
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 3:04?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote: That should work as long as you can find the right-sized bearings. Guide bushings are also a more flexible option, but you’d need to make a template to route the bigger hole.
When I didn’t have any of these options, I just used a chisel to cut a larger inset and wrapped the driver in Saran wrap and dropped it in the hole. Then I filled the remaining space around the driver with epoxy.? Bondo also works great. I used a belt sander to remove and smooth the excess material. The result was a perfect fit - no gaps at all! In fact, it looked like the driver was part of the front panel.?
|
I think that this might work:
Use the existing hole as a guide, lets say you want to open the hole by 1/8" in diameter.
Use a 1/2 router bit with a guide bearing on the tip that's 1/16" smaller than 1/2".
Route it out to a depth that leaves about 1/8" of the old hole at the bottom which will make the opening
1/8" bigger in diameter.? It is good practice to round over the bottom for smooth air flow and a rasp by
hand or drill type could be used to take that last 1/8" off and round it over.
I'm going to try this.
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 1:19?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=
[email protected]> wrote:
What a nice setup.?
Sadly few of us have access to such things.
If anyone knows of away to get this done at a reasoable price it would be great to hear from you.
Charlie Conger
713 472 9140
On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:23?AM, Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=[email protected]> wrote:
?
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
This was my answer.?<1000003052.jpg>
Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25".
The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout.
The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative.
Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
Yes,? I could 3D print a template of any diameter and then no special bearing is needed and it could be? routed all the way through.? Or use a circle jig on the router to make the template.
I've thought about doing it the way that you described, yes that would work.
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 3:04?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote: That should work as long as you can find the right-sized bearings. Guide bushings are also a more flexible option, but you’d need to make a template to route the bigger hole.
When I didn’t have any of these options, I just used a chisel to cut a larger inset and wrapped the driver in Saran wrap and dropped it in the hole. Then I filled the remaining space around the driver with epoxy.? Bondo also works great. I used a belt sander to remove and smooth the excess material. The result was a perfect fit - no gaps at all! In fact, it looked like the driver was part of the front panel.?
|
I think that this might work:
Use the existing hole as a guide, lets say you want to open the hole by 1/8" in diameter.
Use a 1/2 router bit with a guide bearing on the tip that's 1/16" smaller than 1/2".
Route it out to a depth that leaves about 1/8" of the old hole at the bottom which will make the opening
1/8" bigger in diameter.? It is good practice to round over the bottom for smooth air flow and a rasp by
hand or drill type could be used to take that last 1/8" off and round it over.
I'm going to try this.
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 1:19?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger=
[email protected]> wrote:
What a nice setup.?
Sadly few of us have access to such things.
If anyone knows of away to get this done at a reasoable price it would be great to hear from you.
Charlie Conger
713 472 9140
On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:23?AM, Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=[email protected]> wrote:
?
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
This was my answer.?<1000003052.jpg>
Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25".
The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout.
The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative.
Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=
[email protected]> wrote:
Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
That should work as long as you can find the right-sized bearings. Guide bushings are also a more flexible option, but you’d need to make a template to route the bigger hole.
?
When I didn’t have any of these options, I just used a chisel to cut a larger inset and wrapped the driver in Saran wrap and dropped it in the hole. Then I filled the remaining space around the driver with epoxy. ?Bondo also works great. I used a belt sander to remove and smooth the excess material. The result was a perfect fit - no gaps at all! In fact, it looked like the driver was part of the front panel.?
?
?
?
Something like this could also work:
?
?
On Mar 31, 2025, at 1:34?PM, Pete B via groups.io <pete.basel@...> wrote:
I think that this might work:
Use the existing hole as a guide, lets say you want to open the hole by 1/8" in diameter.
Use a 1/2 router bit with a guide bearing on the tip that's 1/16" smaller than 1/2".
Route it out to a depth that leaves about 1/8" of the old hole at the bottom which will make the opening
1/8" bigger in diameter.? It is good practice to round over the bottom for smooth air flow and a rasp by
hand or drill type could be used to take that last 1/8" off and round it over.
I'm going to try this.
?
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 1:19?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote:
What a nice setup.?
Sadly few of us have access to such things.
If anyone knows of away to get this done at a reasoable price it would be great to hear from you.
?
Charlie Conger
713 472 9140
?
On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:23?AM, Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=[email protected]> wrote:
?
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
This was my answer.?<1000003052.jpg>
Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25".
The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout.
The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
?
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative.
Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
?
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
<Screenshot_20250302_060542_Photos.jpg>
?
?
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I think that this might work: Use the existing hole as a guide, lets say you want to open the hole by 1/8" in diameter. Use a 1/2 router bit with a guide bearing on the tip that's 1/16" smaller than 1/2". Route it out to a depth that leaves about 1/8" of the old hole at the bottom which will make the opening 1/8" bigger in diameter.? It is good practice to round over the bottom for smooth air flow and a rasp by hand or drill type could be used to take that last 1/8" off and round it over. I'm going to try this.
Pete B.
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025 at 1:19?PM Charlie Conger via <ctconger= [email protected]> wrote: What a nice setup.? Sadly few of us have access to such things. If anyone knows of away to get this done at a reasoable price it would be great to hear from you.
Charlie Conger 713 472 9140 On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:23?AM, Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff=[email protected]> wrote:
? On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: This was my answer.?  Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25". The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout. The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
What a nice setup.? Sadly few of us have access to such things. If anyone knows of away to get this done at a reasoable price it would be great to hear from you.
Charlie Conger 713 472 9140
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:23?AM, Mickey McAuliff via groups.io <mickeymcauliff@...> wrote:
? On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: This was my answer.?  Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25". The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout. The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
On Mon, Mar 31, 2025, 3:21?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: This was my answer.?  Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25". The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout. The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
This was my answer.? 
Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25". The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout. The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
Looking for the best midrange replacement for my DQ20i s and just wanted to note that the cutout is 4.25". The mid is 5.25" but many modern types are too big for the 4.25" cutout. The GR Research M130 requires 4.75" for example.
Pete Basel
On Wed, Mar 12, 2025 at 10:02?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
Thanks Pete! You're a good man! So my brother used his high end milling machine to properly mill out the spaces for the new midrange and tweeter. Also had to construct a new tube for the 6" midrange difference. Turned out great...the fit and finish. So here's what I ended up with.
-Hi-Vi L6-8R 6" mid
-ScanSpeak classic
D2008 852100
-Advent P001-31858
12" woofer
- All new Solens
Capacitors
They are just now getting stretched out and sounding fabulous! Obviously I'm not a purist! Lol I'm sure the DQ20 purists would be tripping because of the non originality! But I don't care...I care what my ears hear though. I wouldn't change a thing. Seriously.? I hope this message finds you well Pete. Let me know what you have going on.
You sound like someone who is always thinking and tinkering. Be well.
Sincerely,
Mick
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
My marked up schematic shows black/brown going to positive, and black/white going to negative. Please let us know what mods you made and how they sound.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 28, 2025 at 9:01?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
Pete, I'm getting ready to install those new mids we talked about on the DQ20's. Polarity question again...is the brown stripe the positive? Once again no markings on the mid connection. Thank you very much. Mick?
|
I have at least one SEAS MCA15RCY and they are very similar but with the SEAS built on a much nicer cast frame. Both have treated paper cones of about 3.5" to the start of the roll. Both have about the same width roll. Both have treated fabric dust caps. The Vifa has 1mm linear throw and the SEAS 1.7mm The spec sensitivity is a bit less for the SEAS, about 2dB which IS significant, perhaps the resistive padding could be adjusted and the rest of the components impedance scaled to bring the XO response back in spec but with a bit more drive.? There's 2.7 ohms in series with the stock Vifa mid. I measured the stock Vifa as 5.7 and 5.8 ohms and the SEAS is rated at 5.8 ohms, how about that?
Unfortunate that the cutout is 4 1/8" but the SEAS needs 4 1/2", I'd like to try the SEAS with the option to go back if I find originals on ebay, however we must keep in mind that the edges harden so perhaps there's no going back. The Vifa frame is 5" across the smallest side and if the 4.5" cut is made carefully there's 1/8" left for a good seal.
It would be nice to have a high quality modern replacement.? The SEAS are not cheap!
Pete B.
?
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 9:50?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: I think I looked at that one too! Crap...I've looked and converted so many mm to inches, I can't remember anymore! Lol. Very nice! Let me know how it works if you pull the trigger. I really like the group...but I find it is more of a DQ 10 focused. I may be wrong, but happy to have found someone as interested in the 20's. Mick
Pretty sure that the original was 5.25" and it was a true midrange with short throw and fairly high sensitivity.? I'm considering this one, because of many similarities - not sure if it will drop right in:
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 9:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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I think I looked at that one too! Crap...I've looked and converted so many mm to inches, I can't remember anymore! Lol. Very nice! Let me know how it works if you pull the trigger. I really like the group...but I find it is more of a DQ 10 focused. I may be wrong, but happy to have found someone as interested in the 20's. Mick
Pretty sure that the original was 5.25" and it was a true midrange with short throw and fairly high sensitivity.? I'm considering this one, because of many similarities - not sure if it will drop right in:
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 9:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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Pretty sure that the original was 5.25" and it was a true midrange with short throw and fairly high sensitivity.? I'm considering this one, because of many similarities - not sure if it will drop right in:
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 9:24?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote:
Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
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It's going to be a little router work (my siblings own a very high end cabinet shop). I replaced the non original woofer that it came with, with Advents 12" and the tweeter with the Scanspeak D2008/852100. The reason I'm changing out the mids is because one has a noticeable rattle. Josh at Madisound set me up with all new Solens caps. I refinished the honey oak ? with a darker rich stain and clear coat. My son has the bottom screw on 'front pedestal' at the shop now to fill in the unavoidable gouges in the black panel part. New black fabric added. Not original by any DQ20 standard, but appealing to me. Hope all is well. Thanks for your response. Mick
Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
|
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Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
|
Which mids are you getting?
These DQ20i s are at our house in Stamford CT and I had the drivers at our home in Trumbull where my measurement equipment is.? The Trumbull home burnt down and most of the drivers are destroyed. I have Large Advent woofers that will work and will probably buy the modern tweeter and have a modern midrange in mind.
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 21, 2025 at 5:46?AM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
|
Pete. Thanks for your reply. Madisound squared me away on polarity.? I have so far replaced the woofer and tweeter and ordered mids from Josh at Madisound yesterday. I'm not so much of a purist when it comes to the DQ20'S...meaning everything doesn't have to be exactly the same. I'm a lover of fantastic sound and also very in tune visually with the Dahlquist DQ20.? I think we may be Friends because of the Dahlquist.
Thanks again. Mick
I recently purchased a very clean pair of DQ20i s and am in the process of restoring them. Woofers were recently done by Miller Sound by PO. And I'm carefully documenting them on Audio Karma, and correcting the schematic that is available online.? Taking the red dot on the original tweeters as?+, yes the black/green wire goes to the? +and the black/white goes to the -. System documented here (not done):
Mids and edge hardening documented here:
Pete Basel
On Fri, Feb 14, 2025 at 7:26?PM Mickey McAuliff via <mickeymcauliff= [email protected]> wrote: Fellas. Can you tell me the polarity of the Scanspeak tweeter. Black/white, green/black. Which is which? The back label is gone where I assumed the +/- was located. Got my new ones today and didn't want to fudge it up. Thanks Mick
|
Charlie Conger
