Re: DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
Patrick,
The other posters on this thread all have good advice. Joe at Regnar?refurbished a set of my DQ-10s a few year ago. He did stellar work and I couldn¡¯t be happier. I¡¯m sure he¡¯s run into this problem before. I¡¯d take this question to him. He¡¯s always been very willing to help me out.?
My apologies if you¡¯ve already mentioned this route in a previous post. ?
Andy
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Re: DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
Sounds more likely to be an issue with a solder joint. Related to the area of the board flexing. Or the input jacks, fuse holder, etc. Even the related new cap could be bad.?
Over the years those upper mids have proven to be the weakest link. Due to exposure to the elements and even physical forces. They have a tendency to suffer tensile connection issues. Or worse yet, for no apparent reason, they open up somewhere within the voice coil. I've collected a box full awaiting micro surgery in the closet.?
With that being said out of 3 pairs of 10's. I do have a single upper mid producing a slight abnormally. I heard it and swapped to another pair. I've yet to investigate, but I believe the PO modded them by replacing only the upper mid related xover cap. The replacement I noticed is a modern hi-end cap of? slightly different value. When I first hooked them up I immediately noticed that pair produces a hotter upper mid output. With a slight spatter of error on that one drivers upper range. So perhaps it is related to that cap substitution. The plan is to return them back to stock and hopefully the driver is still healthy.?
In your case, regnar or not, consider resoldering the xover board. I'm assuming it is the original board. And not some modern produced stooge with traces instead of real wires. If it does have traces it is probably a cracked trace on the board.
DD
On Fri, Sep 25, 2020, 11:28 AM John van Son < jpvanson@...> wrote: The tinsels for the midrange dome are mounted on the driver's front plate and accessible without disassembling the driver. You can see them from the front of the speaker, actually, without any undoing anything other than the grill. The tabs you see are just mounted to pass throughs that the tinsels are then attached to on the front. The screws you removed should be replaced. Disassembly of the driver for access to the soft parts involves the four screws on the front, but you shouldn't have need to do that just yet. It's best to hold off on that as long as possible as it's difficult to center the voice coil of a dome driver during reassembly to prevent rubbing if you've not done it before.
?
I don't have an example at hand (my parts and DQ-10s are in storage), but what sounds like might be happening is you may have bent the tabs when soldering to touch the topplate of the magnet structure. This would cause a short if both are in contact. This could cause crackling with intermittent contact. With firmer contact as you are applying during testing, while the crossover should still be presenting resistance to the amplifier in that case, it might reduce the system's impedance enough to be triggering the amplifier's protect circuitry causing it to cut out.
Of course, the crackle may be unrelated to the tabs shorting when you push them and may be due to a rubbing voice coil with the midrange dome. This will happen if the driver has been damaged from excess power causing the coil to unwind partially when the glue let go, but not enough to completely blow the driver. There is another case in that it might be the woofer that's blown. Dahlquist's documents indicate the tweeter and possibly also this driver would create a buzzing (high frequency noise) if the woofer was suffering a short. If you have an ohm meter handy, it'd be worth measuring both these drivers and seeing what you get.
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Re: DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
The tinsels for the midrange dome are mounted on the driver's front plate and accessible without disassembling the driver. You can see them from the front of the speaker, actually, without any undoing anything other than the grill. The tabs you see are just mounted to pass throughs that the tinsels are then attached to on the front. The screws you removed should be replaced. Disassembly of the driver for access to the soft parts involves the four screws on the front, but you shouldn't have need to do that just yet. It's best to hold off on that as long as possible as it's difficult to center the voice coil of a dome driver during reassembly to prevent rubbing if you've not done it before.
?
I don't have an example at hand (my parts and DQ-10s are in storage), but what sounds like might be happening is you may have bent the tabs when soldering to touch the topplate of the magnet structure. This would cause a short if both are in contact. This could cause crackling with intermittent contact. With firmer contact as you are applying during testing, while the crossover should still be presenting resistance to the amplifier in that case, it might reduce the system's impedance enough to be triggering the amplifier's protect circuitry causing it to cut out.
Of course, the crackle may be unrelated to the tabs shorting when you push them and may be due to a rubbing voice coil with the midrange dome. This will happen if the driver has been damaged from excess power causing the coil to unwind partially when the glue let go, but not enough to completely blow the driver. There is another case in that it might be the woofer that's blown. Dahlquist's documents indicate the tweeter and possibly also this driver would create a buzzing (high frequency noise) if the woofer was suffering a short. If you have an ohm meter handy, it'd be worth measuring both these drivers and seeing what you get.
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Re: DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
It may also be a good reminder that a marginal solder joint on a PC board may work fine for years, but on a speaker wire, not so much. The mechanical vibrations from the speaker can easily travel down a copper wire, more so if the wire is solid not stranded. Years of small vibrations can bring out a solder defect. I had a DQ-10 woofer go silent, and when I opened it up, one of the leads to the crossover was just dangling an inch from the solder terminal at the speaker.
-----Original Message----- From: Patrick Will <pandrewwill@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Fri, Sep 25, 2020 9:07 am Subject: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II I posted recently about a DQ-10 mid range speaker crackle and receive a couple of helpful responses -- thank you!? I think part of my problem was bad solder connections on the main mid range speaker terminals after I installed a new Regnar rebuilt crossover board.? It seems when I pull on the gray wire on the right side of this speaker, after resoldering the connections, (see attached photo) the crackle sound comes back, or worse, the sound completely cuts out for all five speakers within that entire speaker!!! I am far from an expert, and I think what I may have done is held a? hot soldering gun on this terminal for too long and the solder joint inside the speaker cover has come loose.? So, I tried to remove the magnet cover (three screws) from this speaker to see if I could just resolder the inside part (where the tensils connect?) and I cannot get this housing off!? Anyone ever do this?? Did I kill this speaker? Is it something else?? Thanks in advance, I really need help.
(Attached picture is the back of this speaker driver with the three screws removed and the bad solder joint I performed.)
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Re: DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
Greetings Patrick,
This wire that you are pulling on producing these results. Are you also stressing the other end? And where does the other end terminate? The mid itself cannot cause the rest of the drivers to become open circuited. So my guess is you have a issue on the board itself. Like a bad solder joint or fractured trace. Do you have any pics of the fancy new board? Whatever you do be careful with the mid as they are delicate. Chances are it is just reproducing whatever is sent to it since you mentioned the others also dropping out.
DD
I posted recently about a DQ-10 mid range speaker crackle and receive a couple of helpful responses -- thank you!? I think part of my problem was bad solder connections on the main mid range speaker terminals after I installed a new Regnar rebuilt crossover board.? It seems when I pull on the gray wire on the right side of this speaker, after resoldering the connections, (see attached photo) the crackle sound comes back, or worse, the sound completely cuts out for all five speakers within that entire speaker!!! I am far from an expert, and I think what I may have done is held a? hot soldering gun on this terminal for too long and the solder joint inside the speaker cover has come loose.? So, I tried to remove the magnet cover (three screws) from this speaker to see if I could just resolder the inside part (where the tensils connect?) and I cannot get this housing off!? Anyone ever do this?? Did I kill this speaker? Is it something else?? Thanks in advance, I really need help.
(Attached picture is the back of this speaker driver with the three screws removed and the bad solder joint I performed.)
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DQ-10 Midrange Speaker Crackle - Part II
I posted recently about a DQ-10 mid range speaker crackle and receive a couple of helpful responses -- thank you!? I think part of my problem was bad solder connections on the main mid range speaker terminals after I installed a new Regnar rebuilt crossover board.? It seems when I pull on the gray wire on the right side of this speaker, after resoldering the connections, (see attached photo) the crackle sound comes back, or worse, the sound completely cuts out for all five speakers within that entire speaker!!! I am far from an expert, and I think what I may have done is held a? hot soldering gun on this terminal for too long and the solder joint inside the speaker cover has come loose.? So, I tried to remove the magnet cover (three screws) from this speaker to see if I could just resolder the inside part (where the tensils connect?) and I cannot get this housing off!? Anyone ever do this?? Did I kill this speaker? Is it something else?? Thanks in advance, I really need help.
(Attached picture is the back of this speaker driver with the three screws removed and the bad solder joint I performed.)
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
As w e mentioned, the badges not being attached were a thing for the early to mid-production DQ-10s. Per the company literature in the files section:
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
and here it is... 
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
For all who are reporting no serial number, see the photo from "dq" today. The earlier units had a small sticker on a tweeter baffle with the serial number on it, which often falls off with age. Newer DQ-10s have the serial number stamped on the round rear plate where the terminals are. If you've never opened the top portion of your earlier serial number speaker, you may never see it.
-----Original Message----- From: John Joseph McVeigh <kd4vs@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Thu, Sep 24, 2020 8:06 am Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 10:03:25 -0700, Ed Lindsey wrote:
> I have a mirror image pair w/o serial numbers.
I also have a mirror-image pair that I purchased direct from the
factory.? The speakers themselves do not bear plates with serial
numbers, but the owner's manuals came in manila envelopes on which what
I believe are the serial numbers were stamped.
J.J. McVeigh, Attorney At Law
Butler, Maryland
Practice before the Federal Communications Commission
Member: NY, DC, and USPTO Bars
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
On Wed, 23 Sep 2020 10:03:25 -0700, Ed Lindsey wrote: I have a mirror image pair w/o serial numbers. I also have a mirror-image pair that I purchased direct from the factory. The speakers themselves do not bear plates with serial numbers, but the owner's manuals came in manila envelopes on which what I believe are the serial numbers were stamped. J.J. McVeigh, Attorney At Law Butler, Maryland Practice before the Federal Communications Commission Member: NY, DC, and USPTO Bars
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
The serial numbers on mine are on a small sticker on the tweeter baffle (not the super tweeter). See pic. My pair 4884/4885 are from around 1976 (or earlier, I bought them used) and were not mirror imaged. I've attached a pic of (some of ) the original caps.
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
When I got my pair (1975) the badges were supplied but not affixed. It was up to the owner to apply them? (I suppose because some owners didn't want the badges).
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
Mine are without serial numbers and also don't have badges on the front--doesn't seem that there had been badges that had fallen off. Not mirror imaged.
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
I have a mirror imaged pair but the serial number is not visible.? Where would it be placed?
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 06:35:37 p.m. EDT, w e <sky27709@...> wrote:
I can add that my original pair (which I bought while in high school) were not mirror imaged?because i remember the instructions they mailed out to do it yourself. This was in winter of 1975. They had the yellow Mexico caps .
On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 6:09 PM Michael Bunker < m_bunker@...> wrote:
This is what I recall about the early DQ-10's...
The first that I knew about were not mirrored and did not have the Mylar capacitors (the bright yellow ones).? The first I ever saw had the Advent woofers.? I do not recall ever seeing non-Advent woofers except where someone intentionally swapped them out (for whatever reason). After that they upgraded to the Mylar caps but were still not mirrored.? This went on for about 3 or 4 years. Finally you could get them from the factory mirror imaged. Mine are numbers 24091 and 24093, originally purchased in late 1977 or very early 1978.? At this time they had recently switched over to the Mylar capacitors but were not mirror imaged.
I hope that helps.
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:56:52 PM PDT, Sherman Goldman via <qstieee= [email protected]> wrote:
I was thinking in an earlier mail of what is now in /g/DahlquistSpeakers/wikiLook in the DQ-10 section, perhaps match the rev info to what selected components your DQ-10s have -----Original Message----- From: roywhittoff@...To: [email protected]Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2020 3:46 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers I cannot find serial?numbers on the back of mine, but they were on my receipt from when I purchased them somewhere around 1979.? 22221/22220
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
I can add that my original pair (which I bought while in high school) were not mirror imaged?because i remember the instructions they mailed out to do it yourself. This was in winter of 1975. They had the yellow Mexico caps .
On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 6:09 PM Michael Bunker < m_bunker@...> wrote:
This is what I recall about the early DQ-10's...
The first that I knew about were not mirrored and did not have the Mylar capacitors (the bright yellow ones).? The first I ever saw had the Advent woofers.? I do not recall ever seeing non-Advent woofers except where someone intentionally swapped them out (for whatever reason). After that they upgraded to the Mylar caps but were still not mirrored.? This went on for about 3 or 4 years. Finally you could get them from the factory mirror imaged. Mine are numbers 24091 and 24093, originally purchased in late 1977 or very early 1978.? At this time they had recently switched over to the Mylar capacitors but were not mirror imaged.
I hope that helps.
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:56:52 PM PDT, Sherman Goldman via <qstieee= [email protected]> wrote:
I was thinking in an earlier mail of what is now in /g/DahlquistSpeakers/wikiLook in the DQ-10 section, perhaps match the rev info to what selected components your DQ-10s have -----Original Message----- From: roywhittoff@...To: [email protected]Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2020 3:46 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers I cannot find serial?numbers on the back of mine, but they were on my receipt from when I purchased them somewhere around 1979.? 22221/22220
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
This is what I recall about the early DQ-10's...
The first that I knew about were not mirrored and did not have the Mylar capacitors (the bright yellow ones).? The first I ever saw had the Advent woofers.? I do not recall ever seeing non-Advent woofers except where someone intentionally swapped them out (for whatever reason). After that they upgraded to the Mylar caps but were still not mirrored.? This went on for about 3 or 4 years. Finally you could get them from the factory mirror imaged. Mine are numbers 24091 and 24093, originally purchased in late 1977 or very early 1978.? At this time they had recently switched over to the Mylar capacitors but were not mirror imaged.
I hope that helps.
On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:56:52 PM PDT, Sherman Goldman via groups.io <qstieee@...> wrote:
I was thinking in an earlier mail of what is now in groups.io
/g/DahlquistSpeakers/wiki
Look in the DQ-10 section, perhaps match the rev info to what selected components your DQ-10s have
-----Original Message----- From: roywhittoff@... To: [email protected]Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2020 3:46 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers I cannot find serial?numbers on the back of mine, but they were on my receipt from when I purchased them somewhere around 1979.? 22221/22220
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
I was thinking in an earlier mail of what is now in groups.io
/g/DahlquistSpeakers/wiki
Look in the DQ-10 section, perhaps match the rev info to what selected components your DQ-10s have
-----Original Message----- From: roywhittoff@... To: [email protected]Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2020 3:46 pm Subject: Re: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers I cannot find serial?numbers on the back of mine, but they were on my receipt from when I purchased them somewhere around 1979.? 22221/22220
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
I cannot find serial?numbers on the back of mine, but they were on my receipt from when I purchased them somewhere around 1979.? 22221/22220
?
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Re: DQ-10's with no serial numbers
Old woofer, SN below 1000 New woofer, SN above 1000
Bulletin No 1: 1973 SN below 200, crossover mod for increased efficiency 3dB
SN beginning 4134, another crossover mod
No other ideas to help date the DQ-10
Paul
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On Sep 23, 2020, at 2:53 PM, Sherman Goldman via < qstieee@...> wrote:
Mine without serial numbers (neither paper inside nor stamped on back terminal circle) are early because no fuse in back. Earlier - with paper serial number tag inside - it is easy for glue on that tag to come off with age and even if unit never opened up tag can get lost inside. I thought when I first joined this group that someone had a document posted showing production changes and approximate dates, and approximate serial number range, so perhaps you could reverse engineer the date from some of those changes matched to what you have. I know a prominent early change was the woofer. -----Original Message----- From: w e < sky27709@...> To: [email protected]Sent: Wed, Sep 23, 2020 12:29 pm Subject: [DahlquistSpeakers] DQ-10's with no serial numbers Does anybody own a pair without serial numbers? I do and am curious t find out when they may have been produced (I'm assuming at the begninning of production which would suggest I have a very early pair).
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