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Hello, I'm buying a set of DQ10's that have long lost thier stands. I've seen some with 3 midcentury looking legs. Where can I buy some of those that work well for the speaker? From what I've read they do better at about 10" off the floor so legs to get it that high would be nice....but anything is better than the floor.?

I dont have time right now to build full stands. Just want to get some legs others have used that look good (cute midcentury look that the wife likes) and are sturdy.

Thanks!

I do not know the source. It appears to have values from both the original design, a later Dahlquist variant, as well as those supplied by Regnar. The changes in values of the caps are pretty minor given that series networks like these are partly self compensating. That means changing the values of say the midrange creates a change in the woofer response such that the change is partially compensated for. Given that drivers also will have changed parameters after many years it seems unlikely that it would make much difference. Unless you have the knowledge skills and ability to measure, the knowledge to redesign the network, ?and a good target to shoot for maybe it is best to just replace with the average of the values that have evolved. That should at least put you in the ballpark.?

The higher voltage caps are fine. Using "high power" coil means heavier wire with lower series resistance. This will slightly increase the level of the drivers that is fed from the respective coil. this could be good or bad thing depending on whether that drivers level is to low or too high relative to the others. In general coil do not go bad, ?I would leave them alone.?
John looks like he had good advice. I will say i have the necessary equipment to thoroughly tested caps and the I have the same yellow caps as yours. they were all fine. However if you are replacing all the caps in the other xover might as well do them all. THE?ClarityCap PX are good choice if within your price range.?

If the drivers are original they are the more likely suspect in terms of causing audible colorations. Both of my tweeters had odd impedance curves and one was totally dead. The voicecoil lead wire was broken on that one. When i disassembled the driver to repair it I noticed a huge glob of adhesive that had hardened over most of the corrugated tweeter surround. This impeded dome motion. I was able to gently remove most of the adhesive on the inner surround using very small exacto knife. It is like brain surgery so i don't recommend trying this unless you are confident in your skills. Removing the adhesive greatly improved both the tweeter sound and the impedance curves. The midranges also had hardened surrounds which I softened by gently pushing the cones in and out by the surrounds.
I would add if exact replacements were available I would have used them instead. The Renar replacements are out of the my price range if they are all replaced. ?

Interesting pairing. Those crossovers are a few thousand serial numbers apart. Wonder how such a disparate pair got together?

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You'll definitely need to be replacing all the caps in the DQ-10 with the black electrolytics and the gray Matsushita 80?F. Electrolytic capacitors do not last half as long (or even a third as long) as those are old and series crossovers are finnicky enough with caps that are in value with the right ESR let alone dried out caps with eroded oxide layers. You'll want to do both at the same time to keep their voicing the same. It's not a waste, those old polyester film caps do degrade with time and forty years is about when their failure rate becomes significant ie around the age of that crossover. So, it'll need to be done sooner than later anyways to avoid risking something being off or bad.

As for the Regnar kits, the basic package uses Solens non-polarized metallized polypropylene film capacitors that can be picked up most anywhere (Madisound, Parts Express, Solen.ca, etc). Iirc, the blue 80?F cap is a Bennic electrolytic, but the brand may have changed. The more expensive packages change to ClarityCap PX metallized polypropylene film caps (again available at Madisound and Parts Express) to increasing degrees as the price goes up. They're solid cap choices and my recommendation regardless of what others may sell as a package. You could go more expensive (Janzen, Mundorf) or throw away money on lower quality, but even more expensive esoteric options like those from Dueland, but there'd be nothing to gain there or you might even end up worse off. (Audiophile esoterica has little correlation with good, competent electronic design.)

The cap values in the Regnar kits, however, are tweaked just a little bit from the last Dahlquist revision values. That was his own improvement on the design and, coupled with the customer service, a point (though arguable) to the premium pricing. I don't feel comfortable sharing those and undercutting his business in a more direct manner (no matter how small the degree may be) beyond good generic advice that applies to all vintage speakers.

Looks like you have two crossovers there. The left one has film caps (rarely fail) ?and the blue 80uF electrolytic. The right one has mostly electrolytics, the black ones are a good brand but could be old and need replacement. The grey one should be replaced.?
I just went thru this process and the improvement if any was very subtle.
Unless you just want to spend a fair amount of money I would replace all the black ones with the same value Polypropylene caps and replace both 80uF electrolytics with either a high end electrolytic or film cap. Parts express parts are OK if you want to save some money, other wise the sky is the limit.?
Far more critical is careful cleaning of the boards with a brush, vacuum, or compressed air then alcohol and careful soldering. My boards had MANY botched solder joints from the last person that repaired it. Those bad solder joints were easily audible. Far more audible that the new caps. The woofers were also wired out of phase relative to the correct wiring so if you are not the original owner you should check that as well.

The values should be derived from the schematic for your specific version. Also cross check with the values printed on each cap.