Yeah definitely all food for thought. I'd spec out and match the yellow film version and enjoy. You may even find them still closely matched. Not only are modern rebuilds overkill but they become something different than what the creator created. As there are many different variables involved other than who produces a cap, inductor, resistor, or even a wire type. They all matched to the drivers to produce the gumbo it became. They put countless hours designing the final remarkable result. Best to consider it sacred and tread lightly. Or at least get two pairs and keep one oem as reference. Later on you may be surprised as to which you prefer.
Been there done that. Just get a LP1 and biamp and save a whole lot of expended time.
Best,
DD
On Sep 10, 2021 1:59 PM, "Charlie Conger" <
ctconger@...> wrote:
The higher voltage caps are fine. Using "high power" coil means heavier wire with lower series resistance. This will slightly increase the level of the drivers that is fed from the respective coil. this could be good or bad thing depending on whether that drivers level is to low or too high relative to the others. In general coil do not go bad, ?I would leave them alone.?
John looks like he had good advice. I will say i have the necessary equipment to thoroughly tested caps and the I have the same yellow caps as yours. they were all fine. However if you are replacing all the caps in the other xover might as well do them all. THE?ClarityCap PX are good choice if within your price range.?
If the drivers are original they are the more likely suspect in terms of causing audible colorations. Both of my tweeters had odd impedance curves and one was totally dead. The voicecoil lead wire was broken on that one. When i disassembled the driver to repair it I noticed a huge glob of adhesive that had hardened over most of the corrugated tweeter surround. This impeded dome motion. I was able to gently remove most of the adhesive on the inner surround using very small exacto knife. It is like brain surgery so i don't recommend trying this unless you are confident in your skills. Removing the adhesive greatly improved both the tweeter sound and the impedance curves. The midranges also had hardened surrounds which I softened by gently pushing the cones in and out by the surrounds.
I would add if exact replacements were available I would have used them instead. The Renar replacements are out of the my price range if they are all replaced. ?
