On Dec 18, 2023, at 1:42?PM, SpongeSound <wm.edmiston@...> wrote:

?Want to play my digital music library through my reasonably costly system (Dq-10's, Dq1W sub and LP1 Xover) Hafler 500 amp and pondering the need for an outboard DAC to extract the best sound. Unsure of which one. Anyone out here using one and did you notice a real difference in sound quality vs just plugging into your computer or streaming via something like Plex?

Given the age and cost of the DQ-10's, I'm also wondering if spending more than a few hundred bucks on the DAC is even worth it given the limitations of the speakers themselves. The $249 Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 seems like a nice little unit without breaking the bank....Not interested in a big dollar unit that won't produce any better sound through the 10's than a $250 unit

My music resides on a laptop so I suppose I'd need a pretty long cable to go from the living room or office to the DAC - is that how most use them?

On Mon, Dec 18, 2023 at 6:12 PM, Greg Priddy

<gapriddy@...> wrote:

Don't short-change the DQ-10s. They hold their own very well against all but the very highest end modern offerings, especially if you pair them with a sub, as you've done.

Almost any external DAC is going to be better than what you'll find in your phone, tablet, or laptop. I've been very happy with Schiit products, including their DACs. Depending on how far away your laptop is from your stereo, a long USB cable from the laptop to the DAC should work. The problem then becomes convenience, since you have to be in front of the laptop, or remote into it, in order to select music, etc.

If you want a streaming solution that's free, and you don't mind tinkering, Plex is a good choice. I didn't want to mess with the internals, so I went with Roon, and am very happy. I got a Wiim Pro as an endpoint device, and I use my iPhone as a Roon remote. The Roon core is running on a 'nice, but nothing special' Windows PC, which is also where my music files live. The Wiim Pro also includes a DAC.

Happy listening,

-Greg

On 12/18/2023 1:42 PM, SpongeSound wrote:

Want to play my digital music library through my reasonably costly system (Dq-10's, Dq1W sub and LP1 Xover) Hafler 500 amp and pondering the need for an outboard DAC to extract the best sound. Unsure of which one. Anyone out here using one and did you notice a real difference in sound quality vs just plugging into your computer or streaming via something like Plex?

Given the age and cost of the DQ-10's, I'm also wondering if spending more than a few hundred bucks on the DAC is even worth it given the limitations of the speakers themselves. The $249 Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 seems like a nice little unit without breaking the bank....Not interested in a big dollar unit that won't produce any better sound through the 10's than a $250 unit

My music resides on a laptop so I suppose I'd need a pretty long cable to go from the living room or office to the DAC - is that how most use them?

Want to play my digital music library through my reasonably costly system (Dq-10's, Dq1W sub and LP1 Xover) Hafler 500 amp and pondering the need for an outboard DAC to extract the best sound. Unsure of which one. Anyone out here using one and did you notice a real difference in sound quality vs just plugging into your computer or streaming via something like Plex?

Given the age and cost of the DQ-10's, I'm also wondering if spending more than a few hundred bucks on the DAC is even worth it given the limitations of the speakers themselves. The $249 Cambridge Audio DACMagic 100 seems like a nice little unit without breaking the bank....Not interested in a big dollar unit that won't produce any better sound through the 10's than a $250 unit

My music resides on a laptop so I suppose I'd need a pretty long cable to go from the living room or office to the DAC - is that how most use them?

On Dec 17, 2023, at 9:02?AM, Ed Marrs <ed.marrs123@...> wrote:

?

The price is right.? I wonder about the accuracy.? I use the UMIK and it requires a calibration file for 0 and 90 orientation.? But for a quick check on things, this may be fine.

On Sun, Dec 17, 2023 at 9:27?AM SpongeSound <wm.edmiston@...> wrote:

Looking at the Dayton Audio iMM-6C Calibrated USB-C Measurement Microphone for Apple/ Android. Seems like a handy little device to gather some data and maybe use as a reference to tweak things like speaker placement, identify bad drivers, etc.



Any thoughts? Any users?

On Dec 5, 2023, at 21:37, Steven Moody via <steven.moody@...> wrote:

I have had a similar setup.? I use an LP-1 to separate the preamp signals so that a McIntosh MC 2205 drives the DQ-10s and a Carver amp drives each of the two DQ-1Ws.? Each Carver amp is 700W bridged.? While all of this power is not really required, the system produces prodigious and effortless sound.? I will admit that I once cooked a DQ-1W woofer, but that was under a stupid loud condition.? By the way, I have the right fuses in all of my speakers and have never blown one.

I would take a close look at the LP-1.? This is a great unit for true bi-amping-never let it go if you own DQs.? I have not seen one any better for this purpose because it is so simple to adjust the bass rolloff and gains.? ?The LP-1 has simple circuit topology, and a good tech can easily find anything that would cause fuzzys.? any audio tech should also be able to easily verify the accuracy of the filters and gain stages.? I think there is an instruction booklet on this site for the LP-1 which describes how to match impedances-which is also important.

Good luck with getting your setup working well.

Steve??






On Tuesday, December 5, 2023 at 07:47:09 PM EST, Rick Manzer via??<rmanzer@...> wrote:?





I've had my DQ-10s, DQ-1Ws, and a DQ-LP1 since the '80s. My DQ-LP1 has a loose connection somewhere in the RCA jacks - I tried, without success, re-soldering the connectors to the PC board. Anyway, I've been using my DQ-10s on my Yamaha RX-V6A AVR and was hoping to connect my DQ-W1s as if they were powered subwoofers by driving them with my Hafler 500. When I connect the AVR to the amp and subwoofers, I am not getting clear, solid bass (sounds a little scratchy and the bass is very weak). I don't expect anyone to troubleshoot my problem over , but I would like to know whether it's even possible to use my Hafler and DQ-1Ws in this way, or if there's some technical reason why it won't work. If it's possible and I'm not likely to do damage, I'll get back to figuring out why it's scratchy and weak. If it's not possible, I'll work harder to figure out where the loose connection is in the DQ-LP1.
Thanks,
Rick?

On Dec 5, 2023, at 5:05?PM, richard adelberg <richardadelberg@...> wrote:

?

Geez I just thru out two sets. They wobble no matter how many screws you try to tighten .,

On Tue, Dec 5, 2023 at 7:57?PM Jeff Katz via <qstieee=[email protected]> wrote:

If I recall, there were two versions of the stands. One was made of three pillars vertically between the shelf that held the speaker and the board on the floor. The other had one solid piece of wood. The three square pillar one was more durable.

On Tuesday, December 5, 2023 at 06:18:31 PM EST, Pete Montalvo via <petemontalvo=[email protected]> wrote:

Good day all,

I have a set of Dalquist-10 speakers and want to know if anyone has the original stands for sale for the DC-10 and would be willing to ship to CA, if possible.

Thank you all in advance and have a great day.?

Pete

On Monday, December 4, 2023 at 04:08:39 PM PST, yori oyloe <oyloeyori@...> wrote:

I have several pairs of Dahlquists and just acquired a pair of DQ-20s. I’ve recapped many speakers and would like to know people’s experience with recapping the DQ-20s. What type and value of capacitors. I have used the caps from Regnar in the past but would like other suggestions. Thank you.
Yori