开云体育

If you look at Photos, Files, Databases, and Wiki in the left column you may find a schematic. ?I did not . However you can order the caps for here.

I’m preparing to recap my DQM-9s as they are original and was wondering if anyone has a crossover schematic or parts list? Would prefer ordering parts before I pull the speakers apart.?

Thanks.?

开云体育

开云体育

On another pair of speakers I put an extra layer of MDF glued and screws and then used a router.

Sounds like your not lacking in wattage that's for sure. The 10's are generally pretty hungry. Once bi-amped they are a little more reasonable. As for subs I'd stick with vintage alnico mags in sealed cabs if your really seeking bass definition. And generally they will only require half or less of the power the 10's like. Depending on room size the 700 would be capable of driving at least a pair of decent size subs if not two pairs.

I'm not really a fan of the Seas 13".?And prefer a pair of 4x10"s which are about as fast on rise and decay time as it gets. I really can't help much on current production woofers. As I've yet to hear any since the early 90's that have caught my ear.

DD

I'll probably mostly use my accompanying Adcom gfa 555 for bass duty. It is listed as 22kohm input impedance. The chart in the LP-1 manual suggests adding a .056 in parallel so I'll try that. I am no cap roller yet though have made my way through recapping a variety of things and built some things. I'm not familiar with Russian caps, is there a good place to start with that? I'm mostly familiar with elna silica and stuff like nichicon fine gold--stuff that I can get through mouser.

I like anything seas makes so I might give that a look and doesn't hurt that it was co-designed with Linkwitz. I have to make a sub for someone this summer anyway so might pick one up. If I try it in the DQ 1W I would need to cut an adapter ring of some kind to shrink the opening. But I can probably manage it.?

开云体育

SEAS has a really great subwoofer that can even be used as a woofer. Madisound carries it.?

I really like my stereo DQ-10/DQ-1W/LP1 setup. I actually have two sets of DQ-1W subs and one of the drivers is open; the voice coil finally gave it up. I was going to get it reconed but I'm having so much trouble getting it out of the cab that I shelved the project for now. I'll probably end up destroying the woofer frame to get it out, and I'm really thinking about just replacing the driver with a new one.
Does anyone have more information about the SB Acoustics model? My fear is that it might be one of the boomers that was made for car stereo rap rigs...I want a great sounding woofer that is high fidelity, not high booming!
I drive my speakers with a pair of rebuilt White Oak Phase Linear 700b amps, so I need an unpowered woofer. Also wondering if anyone knows of complete unpowered subs, with the cab and ready to go.

Good move as you now have the ticket right in your hands with the LP1. Figure out your amps input impedance. Run the math to determine the 6db cap size. Then select and order up a few different types. Pickup another sub and a suitable bipolar high dampening factor bass amp and your rolling. Caps all produce different sound profiles and higher cost does not necessarily produce better results. Best to let your own ears decide and by all means experiment with many different types. Teflon, polystyrene, polycarbonate, polypropylene, etc. I've been stuck on Russian Teflons for a few years and they basically commit no sins and are cheap.

That LP1 with stereo subs is a real game changer and really allows the 10's to bloom.

If possible resolder the RCA jack connections to the board prior to use. The jacks are not the most robust but usually work fine once resoldered.

DD

It is a Dahlquist board for sure. But these are the advent masonite ring woofers so not a super early model. But also not originally mirrored. Seems like if the board was an upgrade that that would kind of weird but maybe whoever did the work had some of these around and could just swap them in? Oh well, might remain a mystery. All I know is that it sounds great though I'm going to continue to experiment with various tweeter replacements.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check that out.

开云体育

It is a bit of a mystery. The the mids don't have orange dust caps so I am assuming they are a later version. I'll check the woofers later, I don't think they are CTS, but I have to go in and replace the tweeter potentiometers so I'll see. Someone also "upgraded" the wiring to what looks like 12 gauge monster cable.?
Thanks for your helpful info on the tweeter. The original tweeter didn't have ferrofluid so I can understand why folks might think that removing it from the substitute would be worthwhile--but I get how that might be misguided assuming the replacement, while cosmetically very similar, might actually be pretty different. I'lll probably get a pair and play with them anyway just to get my own opinion. One of the existing tweeters is open even though I don't see where the issue is. The D2010 substitute sounded really nice in my previous pair--but maybe almost too nice if that is a thing??

John--I do have my ebay notifications set to let me know if anything ever shows up. I'm in no hurry, just curious to see what the sub might be like as I didn't have one previously. And I have the LP1 that seems in very good condition though I have not hooked it up to anything yet. Thanks for the link to the SB woofer, that does seem to be pretty extended in size so might be worth a try.?

hi everyone

I am in brooklyn, NY ....

1 pair of DQ-10s and stands ( rebuilt) woofers refoamed by miller sound....? mirror image set? all good to go plus two Dq-1w all for 600$

be safe
BIll Sohne

bsohne5@...

Fifteen years ago, Dahlquist did not exist. Only Dahlquist Holdings up in Canada owned by Audiosphere Technologies, which was Dahlquist in name only, and Regnar were around then to use the name. Though the first did build a tribute model to the DQ-10, the DQ Ten, I'm not aware of them offering support for the older models. Nor am I aware of Regnar using the old polyester caps as the fellow behind that prefers Solens and, more recently, ClarityCap. Certainly an interesting mystery.

?

As for those coming from the factory like that, if I'm remembering correctly, only the first batch of units from Dahlquist are said to have used actual circuit boards for their crossovers (under 200, certainly, maybe fewer) before switching to the waxed masonite backer. Though, I've not been able to confirm that and haven't added it to our wiki for that reason. Be interesting to see if yours are very early examples (orange dust cap on the Philips AD5060, two piece brackets, CTS woofer, different crossover setup) for that. Though, the crossover boards would definitely be looking their age and of the yellow phenolic variety.

?

As for the tweeter, I can't make any suggestions to that other than the Mikrofonbau?HTL-1913 is one of the big weak points of the DQ-10 and could use upgrading if you can do it without messing up the crossover magic too much. Just don't remove ferrofluid from any driver that has it. That's a misguided hack by people who don't understand driver design and will never improve the driver. What it will do is diminish damping making it much harsher (some inaccurately find edgier treble to be "more detailed" despite it being more distorted and unbalanced) and flush the power handling down the sewer.

The 33 F-WK shows up occasionally on eBay if you don't mind waiting a few months or a year for one. There are other 33 F types of woofer that will perform to varyingly different degrees in that box, so you'll have to check parameters to see if a 33F-xxx that shows up will work for you.

?

However, the nice thing about the DQ-1W is that it's a passive sub with external crossover intended to be used with a separate amp. So, unless you want to keep it original, you're free to upgrade the driver without the usual concerns that come with substituting drivers. Good as the 33 F-WK was for its day, subwoofer design has come a long way in the past half century, so there's a lot of room for improvement. I believe some of the SB Acoustics 12" offerings should work without modifying the cabinet since they tend to oversize their frames. A potential option:??